Fbody suspension

1quick

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What are the must for a 10 second ish Fbody, I am starting to put together a plan of action
 

daturbosix

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rear
- adjustable lower control arms
- adjustable panhard bar
- adjustable torque arm
- v6 springs
- comp eng 3-way shocks set to 60/40
- 24mm solid swaybar(found on 1LE cars) or a drag bar

front
- preferably double adjustable front struts
- 350lb spring(normally for ls cars... you may need lighter)
- no front sway bar

chassis
- weld in sub frame connectors
- cut your rear bump stops out
- weld in where you cut the bump stop out
- beat in rear wheel well with BFH to fit 28x10 tire on stock wheels
 

Shibby50

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Pretty much what he said. Though stock springs work.
And don't make the mistake I did of getting 275 springs in the front. 325 or higher.
 

1quick

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I've got a th400 trans, I already have the crossmember for it but after I thought about it it may need modified since I have a spacer between the motor and trans so it will be about an inch further back, thanks for all the help dude
 

1quick

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I got a umi regular crossmember without the torque arm mount for a th400 trans
 

Shibby50

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That's a good thing. Tunnel mount ones are supposed to transfer weighty faster than the crossmember mounted ones.
 

lastls1

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I love how on the subframe connector description it says it will help keep the f body rattle free. Rofl.
 

DynaSlim

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V6 Springs in the rear? I'm just using stock with 50/50 shocks and airbags.
 

1quick

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Since the cars a v6 the v6 springs shal be no problem lol, those comp shocks are cheeeap I like them lol
 

daturbosix

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stock z28, ss, ws6, trans am springs would work too. although the v6 springs are softer IIRC and would allow the shock to do more work. thus more controllable.
 

tease

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FYI - there is no difference between the v6 an v8 rear springs for the 1998-2002. In 98 they started using the same ones for both models.

If it was a 93-97 car then yes you want to replace the springs since they did have different springs.
 

Tommygm3

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I agree with everything daturbosix said except the rear shocks aren't necessary if budget is a concern. Stock or even single adj cheap ones will suffice for some time in the tens especially if you're running a 28 10.5 slick. Also the fronts would be fine with a single adjustable as well and the rear sway bar is fine if u don't mind driving a little in the first 200 ft. I have 325 Springs in the front no sway bar and stock Springs in the rear with stock sway bar. Single adj all the way around. Car drives amazing on the street and it's OK for track use. Could be more settled but I don't mind it.
 

daturbosix

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the comp 3-ways i mentioned are less than $50 each tommy
 

1quick

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i already recieved the shocks, 100 bucks shipped from speed inc for the rear pair, is it really worth spending double for a drag bar, the 1" rear sway bar is like 180 and the 1.25" drag bar is over 400
 

Tommygm3

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i already recieved the shocks, 100 bucks shipped from speed inc for the rear pair, is it really worth spending double for a drag bar, the 1" rear sway bar is like 180 and the 1.25" drag bar is over 400
The 1 inch is likely hollow. The drag bar may be solid. Not sure. But honestly u can get down the track fine without it for now. Do research and add later it's the easier thing to add as an after thought.
 

School Boy

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i already recieved the shocks, 100 bucks shipped from speed inc for the rear pair, is it really worth spending double for a drag bar, the 1" rear sway bar is like 180 and the 1.25" drag bar is over 400
If you need anything else please PM me. We can go over prices.
 

1quick

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what front shocks and springs should i be looking at?
I think i have all the rear suspension now 1" solid sway bar, tunnel mount tq arm, subframe connectors, shocks, adjustable lca's and panhard bar
 

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