Exhaust temps way too high
- Thread starter razors4us
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For LS guys they can buy the terminatorx or:
$550 hptuners pro
$300 wideband and controller
$300 boost controller
$100-200 to license each tune
$50 seperate oil temp gauge
$50 separate oil pressure gauge
$50 fuel pressure gauge
$300-700 reworked harness
Somehow this is the "budget approach"
$550 hptuners pro
$300 wideband and controller
$300 boost controller
$100-200 to license each tune
$50 seperate oil temp gauge
$50 separate oil pressure gauge
$50 fuel pressure gauge
$300-700 reworked harness
Somehow this is the "budget approach"
Have not had good luck with remote....despite the guide I posted in this thread lol
My thoughts on that:
Use an external crank trigger that is supported
Batch or sequential efi makes no difference on a race application 4 cylinder
Use a generic GM TB with supported sensors
Use holley or LS coils
Don't try pump gas that engine has terrible detonation resistance
They seem to love 20 deg timing at all boost levels
Well I guess I got lucky. Someone owed me money and gave me the HP tuners for what they owed me. They had messed up and bought unlimited licenses for 2001 Chevy pickups thinking it was unlimited for all Chevy pickups. Yes the tune isn't a "tune". I'm aware of that.... Like I've said a few times I just asked for the safest tune possible and that was it. I didn't pay for anything, and the truck hasn't blown up again so I'm calling it a win in my book.... The man who helped me out is actually a very very good tuner whom is super well known for his tuning ability. I sent him a factory tune and asked him to make my truck drive 1800 miles from where I lived to where I live now. That was all. It did what it was meant to do and I'm grateful for that. I don't blame him for the low timing. He had no idea the setup I have other than some simple details lol. I'm super happy y'all are helping me out, I want to learn this, not be spoon fed. I've been watching every video I can on tuning. It's not an easy thing to do for me as I work 60+ hrs a week and have a wife that I enjoy spending my time with. I'm willing to keep trying though! I just don't want it to blow up again lol. The last tune that I did by myself was so jacked up I don't know how it even ran.... I had 14⁰ of timing in it at 14psi and it bent a rod and blew the ringlands off of three pistons.... So I'm a bit skeptical as to adding in so much timing....
Well I really cannot thank you guys enough. I'm currently working it over with everything posted. Should be able to drive it tomorrow. I'm just worried about that timing table. 18s and 16s killed my last engine 
. I'll drive nice and pray to the engine god's that the knock sensors do their job I guess lol
. I'll drive nice and pray to the engine god's that the knock sensors do their job I guess lolAlso this might be worth explaining that is not always obvious
This column in the spark table DOES NOT correspond to map pressure like the VE table
So in a 2 bar tune this is NOT 14 psi
The cylinder airmass is a complicated equation that uses injector size, cylinder volume, VE table, etc...
I typically see turbo LSes go full throttle in this range if the tune is not "Scaled" (its own complicated topic)
So it looks like to me you had more like 18-20 degrees timing at 14 psi.
Anyway....
If you have an intercooler a safer place to start would be to just soften up the IAT subtractor table to make it similar to the factory CTS-V
Similar to your old tune
That way if you only want to run 8 degrees of timing, at least it isnt 8 - 6
This column in the spark table DOES NOT correspond to map pressure like the VE table
So in a 2 bar tune this is NOT 14 psi
The cylinder airmass is a complicated equation that uses injector size, cylinder volume, VE table, etc...
I typically see turbo LSes go full throttle in this range if the tune is not "Scaled" (its own complicated topic)
So it looks like to me you had more like 18-20 degrees timing at 14 psi.
Anyway....
If you have an intercooler a safer place to start would be to just soften up the IAT subtractor table to make it similar to the factory CTS-V
Similar to your old tune
That way if you only want to run 8 degrees of timing, at least it isnt 8 - 6
Matt makes this argument in a lot of the videos where he talks about term x. I'll preface this with I have one turbo build, and like 3 other LS trucks. I don't do it for a living, and I'm pretty terrible at it anyways lol.
For me the cost looks like this:
$480- HP tuners (like 6 years ago, came with 8 credits) I've tuned enough 05's that they are now all free, paid for by other people. I'm like 1 truck away from having all 01's and 03's, but I'll count the total cost anyways.
$140- AEM wideband and gauge, cobbled together a serial cable to log for free
$20- manual boost controller, and move the hoses around.
$100- License
$10- wiring to use the oil pressure gauge on the dash. It's either got some or it doesn't.
$free- Rework the harness yourself. It's easy and IDK why no one even tries.
I also wanna say Jesus this is filled with so much good info. I'm gonna download the HTML and save it forever. It's beautiful.
First and foremost: I did everything you told me to do with the tune, and I have to say, it's a TOTALLY different truck. I love it! I saw a few things in the tune that you sent me that I decided to use as well, I hope you don't mind. I must say THANK YOU to chip and all the others that have chimed in.
Now. Onto the rest.
Well I went out and played with it tonight. After setting the timing tables to what you gave me, it pinged it's balls off lol. The first time and last time I ever trust my wife to watch for the red in the spark retard table. First wide open run I wasn't watching good enough so I gave the laptop to the wife, and well. If I weren't watching out of the corner of my eye and listening for it on the second *slightly* harder pull , I'm sure I'd have blown another ringland or bent a rod again... It pulled 8 degrees and struggled to get to 5600 before my cat like reflexes let off the pedal. Final timing was 5 degrees. I'll load the log later so you guys can see what it's doing haha.
And a side note: ANOTHER sensor died. Another 140 bucks wasted. Literally got 1 drive out of it. Fucking stupid. It was NOT TOO HOT when it died this time. I had just started the truck for the first time today when the sensor took a shit. It was idling for maybe 30 seconds when it did the usual bounce around then slam back and forth between full rich and full lean before the infamous e8 error code. I tried to recalibrate it after driving for a bit to warm the engine up and I literally spun it out of the exhaust barehanded. (which now I'm doubting my original assessment of exhaust temps causing it).
Sorry for the long post guys. Just frustrated.
This truck has me pulling my damn hair out and I don't have much to spare!
Now. Onto the rest.
Well I went out and played with it tonight. After setting the timing tables to what you gave me, it pinged it's balls off lol. The first time and last time I ever trust my wife to watch for the red in the spark retard table. First wide open run I wasn't watching good enough so I gave the laptop to the wife, and well. If I weren't watching out of the corner of my eye and listening for it on the second *slightly* harder pull , I'm sure I'd have blown another ringland or bent a rod again... It pulled 8 degrees and struggled to get to 5600 before my cat like reflexes let off the pedal. Final timing was 5 degrees. I'll load the log later so you guys can see what it's doing haha.
And a side note: ANOTHER sensor died. Another 140 bucks wasted. Literally got 1 drive out of it. Fucking stupid. It was NOT TOO HOT when it died this time. I had just started the truck for the first time today when the sensor took a shit. It was idling for maybe 30 seconds when it did the usual bounce around then slam back and forth between full rich and full lean before the infamous e8 error code. I tried to recalibrate it after driving for a bit to warm the engine up and I literally spun it out of the exhaust barehanded. (which now I'm doubting my original assessment of exhaust temps causing it).
Sorry for the long post guys. Just frustrated.
This truck has me pulling my damn hair out and I don't have much to spare!
31x11x3" intercooler. Intake temps were around 90 ish on the hard pull that I let out of it. I have the factory engine mounts, and it sounded pretty audible to me lol. It started breaking up around 5300 or so. My assumption: went lean lol. I don't know why it would have gone lean as I didn't change the ve table at all. Just the transmission stuff and timing tables a little bit and some of the "fail-safes" like abuse mode and whatnot. I'm currently at work, I'll have to post the log later. Thing is a pain in my ass lol. And it's probably all my fault cuz I missed something somewhere lol!
Some other minor things i noticed in your tune
You need to zero out the EGR Airflow table
And it looks like your Mass Air Flow sensor may not be completely disabled, this might be why you are going lean (the PCM is still trying to use maf values)
This is under the Engine Diagnostics button at the top
You need to set it like this
The most important item is the MAF Frequency Fail high at 0Hz
With your current tune the MAF has to reach 13k before failing...I would guess its still enabled
You need to zero out the EGR Airflow table
And it looks like your Mass Air Flow sensor may not be completely disabled, this might be why you are going lean (the PCM is still trying to use maf values)
This is under the Engine Diagnostics button at the top
You need to set it like this
The most important item is the MAF Frequency Fail high at 0Hz
With your current tune the MAF has to reach 13k before failing...I would guess its still enabled
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