Everything LS - Sloppy Mechanics

[Mook]

THREAD TABLE OF CONTENTS:
4l80e Information, technical sheets, build info, guidelines
4l80e NNBS T42 swap
4l80e sloppy transbrake (3rd gear spool mod)
Gen3 or Gen4 rods
GM Map Sensor Identification - scale - offset - settings
4 Bar map
IAC Relearn
Is that a 4.8 or a 5.3?
LS Camshaft Sensor Sprocket or Gear & Crankshaft Relector ID Page
LS1 GENIII GM Gaskets seals and engine related Part Numbers
LS1 style Low Mount Alternator
LSX Head cast numbers / flow /swap info
Megasquirt or Stock PCM?
plugwire solutions
Sloppy Guide to Junkyard Turbo LSx Builds
sloppy stage 2
Spark Plugs
Tons of General LS Information - oil pan, accessories, cyl heads, etc
Truck Engine Vin Decoder
What fuel pump should i use for my turbo LSX car?
Lean Cruise

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - 4L80E Cheap stand alone trans controller using 0411 GM engine PCM

EDIT 9/26/16 - Now I have over 400 miles on this stand alone transmission controller. I also recently turned on the torque converter clutch to activate in overdrive. Everything is working perfectly and shifts just like it should. As the subject says. This is for those guys who are running

sites.google.com

4L80E Cheap stand alone trans controller using 0411 GM engine PCM


EDIT 9/26/16 - Now I have over 400 miles on this stand alone transmission controller. I also recently turned on the torque converter clutch to activate in overdrive. Everything is working perfectly and shifts just like it should.

As the subject says. This is for those guys who are running MegaSquirt, carb or something other than a factory computer for their engines. This write-up is for OPERATION OF THE 4L80E TRANSMISSION. I (Dale Follett) can write up how to make it work on a 4L60e too if theirs enough interest into it.

History:

I (Dale Follett) was tired of having my LS engine/4L80e transmission wired up for full manual valve body and wanted it to shift itself automatically like a factory unit. This could easily be done by swapping around the entire engine computer and harness back to a factory style PCM, BUT my car is wired up with MegaSquirt 2 and I like its features. A Microsquirt and 4L80e harness is $450.00, but thats a bit much to swing just for automatic transmission control and I wanted a cheaper option. This is what I came up with, only cost 2 HP tuners Licencing credits and a PCM from the junkyard (Total of $125.00) and some of my time.

Required Parts or Tools>

• HP tuners interface or someone who has a HP tuners interface.
• 0411 PCM that was a throttle body drive by cable setup. Does not matter if it was a 4L60E or 4L80E BUT having a computer that ran your transmission from the factory from the junkyard is easier.
• All your normal wiring crap. Soldering Iron, wire strippers, electrical tape or if you want to be fancy heat shrink, wire, etc.
• All the Transmission electrical connectors, and the Factory PCM electrical connectors, and a OBD2 diagnostics port connector for the HP tuners interface to PCM communications.

As already stated this is for the 4L80E GM transmission WITH THE UPDATED PASS THROUGH TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR.

The only required PCM inputs from the engine is only RPM and throttle position. The rest of the PCM's inputs come from the transmission itself.

Biggest thing here is PCM selection. You need a PCM that runs a 4L80E preferably or 4L60E that also reads the crankshaft position wheel. Example, my firebird setup is running a 4.8L LS gen 3 engine that has the 24X wheel. So for the PCM or tune file, it needed to be out of a vehicle that had the LS 24X crankshaft position sensor wheel so the PCM's RPM input would read accurately. If your running a older style 350 small block chevy you would need a PCM out of a chevy express van and setup the engine for the same crankshaft position sensor and wheel to get the correct RPM input into the PCM.

The next thing is TPS. For us using EFI this is no big deal because we already have a TPS sensor. For those of you who are looking into doing this for your carburated setups, you'll need to fabricate a mount onto your carb for a TPS sensor. This PCM REQUIRES A TPS INPUT in order to function correctly as a transmission control module.

Now on how to wire it in. Their are no pre-made wiring harness' for this so you will have to make your own harness. It is not that hard though and NOTHING compared to building a engine wiring harness. I go by pinout count and connector pin counts to do my wiring harness' because the wiring colors may be different from make and model vehicle your swapping parts around. Just makes life simpler because the wire colors may change from X to X but the PCM's pins and connector pinouts do not change The PCM and wiring diagrams I use are for the 0411 or P01 GM PCM that has the Blue and Red PCM connectors. The Blue connector is referred to as C1 and the Red connector is referred to as C2.

The Non Transmission related inputs needed to the 0411 PCM:

• 0411 PCM Ground (GOOD ENGINE/TRANSMISSION GROUND OR BATTERY GROUND):
• C1 Blue connector Pin 1 & 40
• C2 Red Connector Pin 1 & 40
• 0411 PCM 12VDC Power (20 amp fuse, wired directly to battery positive):
• C1 Blue connector Pin 20 & 57
• 0411 PCM 12VDC Ignition Power (20 amp fuse, wired directly to ignition switch and needs power in both run and crank, this is what turns "on" the 0411 PCM):
• C1 Blue connector Pin 19 & 75
• If you want a "Check Transmission Light" or more commonly known as a check engine light for your transmission.
• The 0411 PCM applies a ground to C2 Pin 46. This could be wired to the ground side of a small light bulb to notify you the 0411 PCM has a code in it for something wrong with transmission function.
• 0411 PCM Class 2 Data Communication (Data wire to OBD2 connector PIN 2)
• C1 Blue Connector Pin 58
• 0411 PCM TPS "Throttle Position Sensor" Input for EFI equipped vehicles. (This is wired to the SIGNAL wire coming out of the TPS sensor.) For EFI equipped vehicles tap into the SIGNAL ONLY.
• C2 Red Connector Pin 24
• 0411 PCM CKP "Crankshaft Position Sensor" Input for EFI equipped vehicles. (This is wired to the SIGNAL wiring coming out of the CKP sensor.) For EFI equipped vehicles tap into the SIGNAL ONLY.
• C1 Blue Connector Pin 12

FOR CARB OR NON-EFI EQUIPPED INSTALLS:
0411 PCM TPS "Throttle Position Sensor"
C2 Red Connector Pin 24 to Signal Wire coming out of TPS Sensor
C1 Blue Connector Pin 46 to 5VDC Power wire for TPS Sensor
C1 Blue Connector Pin 46 to Ground wire for TPS Sensor
0411 PCM CKP "Crankshaft Position Sensor"
C1 Blue Connector Pin 12 to Signal Wire coming out of CKP Sensor
C1 Blue Connector Pin 2 to Power Wire for CKP Sensor
C1 Blue Connector Pin 21 to Ground Wire for CKP Sensor

0411 PCM Brake Switch Input. This is wired/relay'd to the Positive wire coming from your brake pedal switch to your brake lights. This needs relayed to work correctly. C1 Blue Connector Pin 33 needs 12vdc key on power until you press on the brake pedal, which then it needs no power or ground applied to that computer pin to let the computer know it needs to release the torque converter clutch. A bosch single pole double throw relay would work great for this. Ground 85, Wire pin 86 to your 12vdc from your brake switch to your brake light wire. Apply key on 12vdc power to pin 30, then wire C1 Blue Connector Pin 33 to 87a. Boom! Your torque converter clutch should release now with the brakes applied.

The Transmission Related Inputs/Outputs needed to the 0411 PCM:

Because the Transmission connector isnt as clearly marked as the PCM connectors are, heres a diagram. This is looking AT THE CONNECTOR, THE SIDE THAT MATES WITH THE TRANSMISSION.

0411 PCM Torque Converter Clutch Control (Wired to pin S on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 2
0411 PCM 1-2 Shift Valve (Wired to pin A on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 48
0411 PCM 2-3 Shift Valve (Wired to pin B on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 47
0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal A (Wired to pin N on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 63
0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal B (Wired to pin R on the transmission connector)
C1 Blue Connector Pin 17
0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Signal C (Wired to pin P on the transmission connector)
C1 Blue Connector Pin 18
0411 PCM Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Signal (Wired to pin L on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 51
0411 PCM Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid Control Ground (Wired to pin D on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 8
0411 PCM Transmission Pressure Control Solenoid Control Power (Wired to pin C on the transmission connector)
C2 Red Connector Pin 6
0411 PCM Transmission Input Shaft Speed Sensor (This is the sensor right behind the bell-housing of the transmission. The Input/Output shaft speed sensors on the 4L80E transmission are not polarity sensitive, and just simply need wired to the PCM)
C2 Red Connector Pin 22 for one wire and C2 Red Connector Pin 23 for the other wire coming from the Input Shaft Speed Sensor
0411 PCM Transmission Output Shaft Speed Sensor (This is the sensor near the back of the transmission. The Input/Output shaft speed sensors on the 4L80E transmission are not polarity sensitive, and just simply need wired to the PCM)
C2 Red Connector Pin 20 for one wire and C2 Red Connector Pin 21 for the other wire coming from the Output Shaft Speed Sensor

You DO NOT NEED a neutral safety switch on the transmission and wired to the 0411 PCM to make it function. All this switch did in the factory cars/trucks was inform the Instrument Panel what gear its in for its gear selector display and to not allow the engine to start in any gear but park/neutral. It is a nice safety feature, but not required.

Ok now that gets the 0411 PCM wired to the Transmission and brake switch and the RPM/TPS required from the engine.

Next is the Tune File

The tune file in the PCM must be setup for the engine or crankshaft position sensor wheel currently equipped on the engine in order for it to get a proper RPM signal input. The RPM signal input is required for the WOT shift tables.

The 0411 PCM WILL REQUIRE A TUNE/FLASH FOR IT TO OPERATE CORRECTLY. If you run it just as is from a junkyard, It will A: go into anti-theft mode because VATS is still enabled, B: go into transmission limp mode and C: possibly not work at all depending what application you pulled your computer out of.
On my setup, I had a PCM tune file out of a 01 GMC 1500 with a 4.8L and a 4L60e in the control module. I had to get another tune file with the same OS (operating system) my 0411 PCM has that had a 4L80e transmission originally so I could segment swap the transmission and transmission diagnostics segments over to my tune file. IF YOU GET A PCM FROM A VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A 4L60E FACTORY AND YOUR RUNNING IT ON A 4L80E OR VICE VERSA THIS SEGMENT SWAP IS REQUIRED FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO FUNCTION! "Ask me how I know".

All Engine Related DTC's must be turned off EXCEPT for the TPS and CKP DTC's Number P0121, P0122, P0123, P0335 & P0336.

Leave all Transmission Related DTC's under the Engine Diagnostics>DTC's turned ON that are factory turned on with a PCM thats equipped with a 4L80E EXCEPT P0705 & P0706, these two codes must be turned off if you are not using the Neutral Safety Switch. Leaving the rest of the Transmission DTC's on will allow the 0411 PCM to turn on the MIL light or store a MIL code if there is a issue with the Transmission and will also allow the PCM to go into transmission Limp Mode.

Under System>General, change the PRNDL equipped to none.

REMOVE ALL TORQUE MANAGEMENT AND DISABLE ABUSE MODES IN BOTH ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION TABS If this is not done the transmission will not shift correctly.

Under Trans>Auto Shift Properties>General> Perf Option, select No Switch. This is the tow haul switch, which was hooked to the BCM (Body Control Module) and signalled over the Class 2 Data network to turn on the feature in the PCM. I currently have not found a work around to be able to use this feature. If I do find a way, I will update this wiki page.

Those are the required settings that need changed over in order for the 0411 PCM to function as a stand alone transmission controller and actually shift the 4L80E transmission correctly. The last of the settings will be dependent on your particular setup. These settings are:

Gear Ratio and Tire Height (Found under the Edit tab>Gear/Tire Wizard)
Auto Shift Properties>All tables (modify for the way your transmission is built, wanted transmission characteristics, etc)
Auto Shit Speed> All tables. These are the ones you'll need to modify for your particular setup to make the transmission shift at the right speed and MPH.

THE ONLY ISSUE I HAVE CURRENTLY:
My TPS input at idle is at 25% in the 0411 PCM. This isnt a big issue because you can work around it in the Shift Speed tables. I believe I need to also tap my TPS sensor ground from the 0411 PCM to my MegaSquirt 2's TPS ground, which I believe will fix it. I will update this wiki when this is diagnosed and corrected.

EDIT 9/26/16 - I found the TPS Issue. Its actually working as its supposed to. I am not running a IAC valve and modified my throttle body for a adjustable idle screw. Anyhow the thottle blades were literally opened between 20-23% for the engine to idle, well it was due to carbon buildup on the throttle body. I cleaned off the carbon and this percentage fell to around 13-15% for the same RPM idle. So its working correctly.

Below is my R&D and proof of concept video playlist on Youtube:


Proof of Concept Video



And as always the disclaimer.

This modification is DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I (Dale Follett) will NOT be held responsible or liable for any damage done to your vehicle due to the results of this modification.

Click to read more...

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - 4l80e Information, technical sheets, build info, guidelines

HD2 kit Update and caution recently we had a discussion on the sloppy page and people pointed out to me to not perform this mod "Grady Farrer: It's to solve over pressure conditions. It has you drill from 14 into 47. 47 is a void so it's easy to undo this mod if you've already done it If torque

sites.google.com

4l80e Information, technical sheets, build info, guidelines

HD2 kit Update and caution

recently we had a discussion on the sloppy page and people pointed out to me to not perform this mod

"Grady Farrer: It's to solve over pressure conditions. It has you drill from 14 into 47. 47 is a void so it's easy to undo this mod if you've already done it

If torque signal fluid builds up too much pressure (tune. Worn valve. Epc, etc) then it will unseat the trans go ball and exhaust the fluid.

This way you don't build up too much pressure and blow out snap rings or seals etc.

It's a bad mod because if the transgo ball doesn't seal perfectly...or over time it wears out and leaks...or gets cocked sideways etc...then it leaks torque signal fluid and causes horribly LOW line pressure and cooks the trans

It doesn't really fix anything and there's a big risk to break shit. Moral of the story... don't do the relief mod

4.8/5.3 4L80E Swap & General Information

4L80E Differences:
'91 -'96: They are all pretty much the same. They were also known to have a crappy connector that passes through the case. Most have had them updated by now, but there are still some that haven't and might need replacing. They have the ‘older’ style lubrication, where both cooling lines are behind the bellhousing. They also have larger overdrive roller clutch, usually came with a 16 element sprag instead of the 36 element. The bellhouse bolt pattern is the traditional SBC/BBC pattern. These early transmission also did not have mounting holes for the manual lever position switch (MLPS) ie. neutral safety switch.

'94 -'96: These are the same as the earlier ones but with a few differences. It has an updated EPC (electronic pressure control) solenoid. Some also had a longer shift shaft for the MLPS.
'97 - '99: These years have the ‘new’ style lubrication, where there is one oil cooler line behind the bellhousing and the other being farther towards the back of the transmission. Also uses the bellhousing bolt pattern of previous years.
‘00 - ’03: Same as previous years but bellhousing bolt pattern was changed to the LS style.
‘04 - up: Same as previous year with some minor valve body changes.
Gear Ratio:

Gear	Ratio
First	2.48
Second	1.48
Third	1.00
Fouth	0.75

Flex plate:
You will need a flexplate and spacer from ¾ ton GM truck that originally came with a 4L80E. Your other option is, if you're going with an aftermarket torque converter anyways, is to have the torque converter made with the correct offsets and mounting pads to bolt up to the stock 4.8/5.3 flex plate. Circle D can do this no problem. (https://www.circledspecialties.com/)

GM Part Numbers:
19260102 FLYWHEEL
12563532 SPACER
19257940 BOLTS 6

PCM/Tuning:
If you’re using the factory PCM this is pretty straight forward, just have it loaded with a 80e tune from a Chevy Express 4.8/4L80e or similar.

DIY Manual Valve Body:
Terminal pinout wires "A" and "B" from the pressure manifold are connected together and connected to the ground side of "Shift Solenoid A". Terminal pinout wire " C" from the pressure manifold is connected to the ground side of "Shift Solenoid "B". 12 Volts is supplied to the Pink Wire on the outside of the trans .This will power up the shift solenoids as well as the lock up solenoid. If you want to lock the converter you must run the Brown Wire on the outside of the trans through a toggle switch to chassis ground.

Cooling lines:
‘91 - ‘96 (SM=Straight Mechanical)

‘97 - Up (SM=Straight Mechanical)

Note: They are straight thread without the taper normal pipe thread has. Also on later models (‘97 and up) the rear cooling line fitting has an extended tube that goes inside the transmission, looks like so -

Wiring Conversion:

Info was grabbed from multiple sources

http://www.jakesperformance.com/
http://ls1tech.com/
http://www.ls1truck.com/
http://coloradok5.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/

among others I can’t remember



Tips for building a 4l80e without the HD2 Kit (By Grady):
If you're going to tear the trans down to a bare case and actually build the thing...don't spend your money on the transgo HD2 Kit. The transgo kit does 2 main things...increases line pressure and "dual feeds" the direct clutch.

The direct clutch is used in 3rd gear and also for reverse. The apply piston for this clutch is divided into two chambers. In reverse, it uses both chambers and gets full apply force. In 3rd, it only uses one chamber...significantly reducing the apply area and overall holding power. "dual feeding" the clutch allows both chambers of the apply piston to be used in 3rd gear also...more than doubling the strength of 3rd gear.

To dual feed...remove the center lip seal on the apply piston, remove the 2nd sealing ring on the center support, and plug the case hole to the right of the center support bolt. You can plug the case passage with a 3/8 cup plug driven in. Or you can tap the center support and install a set screw. Make sure the set screw is below flush otherwise the center support won't seal against the case and you'll have a nightmare.

For increasing the pressure, use a sonnax brand boost valve. The "4L80e-LB1" is the part number you want. If making LESS than 1khp...and I mean a true 1khp to the tire...use the valve and sleeve but keep the stock pressure regulator spring. If making more than 1khp...use the included sonnax spring.

Another important area to improve is the intermediate clutch snap ring. The stock ring is flimsy and weak. Use a snap ring from a Torque Flite 727. the 0.106 thickness option usually works the best. if clearance is too tight with the .106 you can step down to the .088

Drill the separator plate. I've attached the transgo plate picture so you can see which hole is for which gear. Usually 5/64" (.078) is fine for lighter cars or lower power units for 2nd gear...you don't need to make 2nd stupid firm. If making some jam or in a heavy vehicle (4k+ lbs) 3/32 (.093) will be ok. 3rd you can go 7/64 (.110) for most stuff and for high hp/heavy go 1/8" (.125) Same for 4th.

Don't take these numbers as gospel...it varries car to car, engine to engine, and person to person. While uncle Jimmith might want to "bark the tires" on every shift at 20% throttle...other guys might not want that.

Bigger hole=faster/firmer shift. If you block accumulators...use the smaller of the hole options because the shifts will get faster and firmer when you block accumulators.

As a side note...replace the electronics and harness. You can usually do this for less than $200. If nothing else...replace the EPC solenoid. It is by far the most important as it controlls the pressure of the trans. So just replace it...don't cheap out here.

Speaking of accumulators...if you want to block the 3rd or 4th accumulators, you have a couple options. The first option is the easiest and most foolproof...just buy an accumulator delete plate from Jakes performance. They're not that expensive and they work great every time. If you don't want to buy one, you can tap the stock accumulator housing and block the feed holes with a set screw. The bore without the pin is for 3rd. The hole with the pin is for 4th. the 2nd accumulator is in the case and does not need to be blocked. Use a 5/16"-18 tap and set screw.

Ideally, you would have the pump and valve body vacuum tested...but I'm realistic...99% of guys in their shop aren't going to do that. SO, just buy the transgo AFL Fix kit. "48-ACT-TL"

The kit will do 5 valve bodies...so save the kit and do a solid for some local buddies or sell the used kit with 4 valves left in it...it ends up being very worth the cost. A leaky AFL will cause HORRIBLE pressure rise, and poor actuation of the shift valves...which means the solenoids might command a gear...but the pressure from afl is too low and it won't move the valve and shift.

Also, in the pump, drill this hole. But use a 5/64" (.078) drill bit. It provides better lube flow...it also keeps the converter from dragging. So, you'll run cooler, have better lube, keep the converter happy, etc.

As a rule of thumb...over 700 horse...get a billet input. Jakes performance has a budget friendly billet shaft.

over 800 horse get a forged fwd. hub...FTI has a good unit at a good price. (if you're building a 400...they have a weaker hub...use an 80e steel hub up until 800 horse...then go forged)

MOST IMPORTANTLY Verify the damn fluid level. Seriously...you've taken the time to 80e swap your ride...you've LS swapped your shitbox, you've loaded a tune from the sloppy wiki...you've done alot of stuff that has taken more time and energy than this...but this can EASILY ruin your weekend when you shit a trans.

Just make sure the dipstick reads correctly. Correct reading means that "FULL" Is level with the pan rail. The flat part of the case where the pan bolts/seals. Right at that level or 1/8" above it the correct fill level. I recommend doing it IN THE CAR with the dipstick permanently mounted. Get the trans in and bolted up to the cross member...then drop the pan and check the stick. Scribe a line on the stick if the existing line is not accurate. It doesn't matter if you get a "madman" or a lokar or some other 200 dollar dipstick...don't assume it is correct...verify it. Honestly this is one of the biggest killer of fwd and int clutches and it's ridiculous not to take the time to do this verification step.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - 4l80e NNBS T42 swap

4L80e NNBS t42 wiring (thank you chris ortiz for the writeup) Pull your transmission connector, pull the covers and the pinlock out the front of the connector

sites.google.com

4l80e NNBS T42 swap

4L80e NNBS t42 wiring (thank you chris ortiz for the writeup)

Pull your transmission connector, pull the covers and the pinlock out the front of the connector

Now get a pick tool and start pulling pins.
Remove the wire from slot S, Then move the wire from slot U and place it into slot S

Now you’re going to take the wires out of slots K and V.
These will be your new ISS wires. Connect these to an ISS sensor pigtail, Crimp, solder im not gonna tell you how to live your life.
Polarity doesnt matter its a pulsed signal. You will have one extra wire just tuck it up in the loom and tape it up.

Now plug everything in and you’re done on the bottom for wiring.

Now unplug your TCM, remove the locks for the pins, there is one that slides out the side and a backing plate.
Move pin 45 to pin 26, put it all back together and you’re done with wiring.

Now this part is very important if you’re working on a customers car, if not skip this step.
Make sure you move the seat from where the customer has it positioned. Make sure its really far from where they had it.

Now make sure you put the steering wheel tilt all the way up like hes going to be driving a peterbuilt.

Ok now that is done break out your hptuners mpvi. Get on the hptuners website and search the repository for a 2008 chevy express van.
Should only be one on there for the trans segment of the swap

Now youre going to have to license this file to use it, good thing is its only once and can use it on future swaps.
So fire up hptuners and open that file, you will need 3.0+ to do this.
Connect to vehicle and hit the write button, put do not write for engine and select write entire for trans controller

After that is done close the express van file, Hit the read button and save that file as your new 4l80e file for your vehicle.

You did it.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - 4l80e sloppy transbrake (3rd gear spool mod)

Now, I had alot of help getting this working from LS1 tech members and tons of info from a trans guy, wanted to let you know that first! thank you for the community for helping me out, i wired it in, tested it and ill show you how i did it. First of all I will explain, I am using this for foot

sites.google.com

4l80e sloppy transbrake (3rd gear spool mod)

Now, I had alot of help getting this working from LS1 tech members and tons of info from a trans guy, wanted to let you know that first! thank you for the community for helping me out, i wired it in, tested it and ill show you how i did it.
First of all I will explain, I am using this for foot brake turbo cars, 4l80e transmissions, i use tighter circle D stall converters for my street cars that will come up if you have really good brakes and other situations, what sucks is most of the time i am using 80s shitboxes, with poor brakes,
when i bring the car up into a brake stand i will push the back or front tire before i can get the boost and rpm i need to leave hard.
well what happens here is you hit a switch and it forces the trans into high gear, removing the mechanical advantage you have over the tire, forcing the converter to hit its highest stall capability easily, and also when dropping back into 1st helps bump the tire and leave harder than just letting it roll off the brakes.
i used a 5 wire relay, what it does is leaves the trans connected and working normally, when you hit a switch it throws the 2-3 shift solenoid to ground, activating it.
then when you turn the switch off, (or monetary button etc) it will go back to normal and select first gear. and you will take off.
here is the wiring diagram i wrote up for how i have it working on a 5 wire relay

also when you do this, the stock PCM will have a fit, and put the trans in limp mode, i had to disable codes for it to work correctly, you might have the same or different problem just be aware.
These are the codes i had to disable.

• [] P0719 - Brake Switch Circuit Low Input (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
• [] P0748 - Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Electrical (History) (Immature)
• [] P0753 - 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical (Old) (History) (Immature)
• [] P0758 - 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit Electrical (Old) (History) (Immature)
• [] P1810 - TFP Valve Position Switch Circuit (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
• [] P1860 - TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)

now for a car that would have trouble hitting 2300 in my garage i could easily get to 3700+ and boost on the foot brake on smooth concrete
as shown here in this datalog...

and here is a video of it working at the track.




i come up to the line and then start to foot brake, hit the switch and feel the 3rd gear clunk.
then i am free to easily build rpm and boost. then when i hit the switch there is a delay and i am still on the brakes, it thuds hard into first gear and takes off easily blowing through the brakes.
more testing and unsure of the longevity or damage it might cause, but its basically power downshifting, wich people do all day long.
more to come and revisions etc just wanted to get this put up!

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Gen3 or Gen4 rods

does my motor have gen3 or gen4 rods? how will i know the difference? this and more! what we have here is a early gen3 5.3 rod and piston on the left and a newer ls2 style floating piston and beefier gen4 style rod on the right (click to enlarge)

sites.google.com

Gen3 or Gen4 rods

does my motor have gen3 or gen4 rods?
how will i know the difference?
this and more!
what we have here is a early gen3 5.3 rod and piston on the left
and a newer ls2 style floating piston and beefier gen4 style rod on the right
(click to enlarge)

also note, these newer 5.3 pistons you can sometimes get in FLAT TOP wich will increase compression ratio also
(dished gen3 piston on the top, flat top gen4 piston on the bottom)

check out the thickness difference

another super easy way to tell is to pull the pan, if both rod ends are square, right angle ends like this, these are the newer rods

again you can see on the right the gen3 rod is skinnier and has a rounded edge on one side at the big end

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - GM Map Sensor Identification - scale - offset - settings

map sensor pin swap stock top locking tab up, wires facing you pin 1 - 5v ref - grey pin 2 - signal - green pin 3 - Ground - orange duramax sensor wiring Pin 1 - 5 volts - gray Pin 2 - Ground (low reference) - orange/black Pin 3 - Signal to PCM - light

sites.google.com

GM Map Sensor Identification - scale - offset - settings

map sensor pin swap
stock top locking tab up, wires facing you
pin 1 - 5v ref - grey
pin 2 - signal - green
pin 3 - Ground - orange
duramax sensor wiring
Pin 1 - 5 volts - gray
Pin 2 - Ground (low reference) - orange/black
Pin 3 - Signal to PCM - light green
-------------------------------------------------
GM 1 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for HPtuners software
MAP Sensor Linear: 94.43
MAP Sensor Offset: 10.34
GM 2 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for HPtuners software
MAP Sensor Linear: 207.66
MAP Sensor Offset: 9
GM 2.5 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for HPtuners software
MAP Sensor Linear: 244.68 kPa
MAP Sensor Offset: 10.21 kPa
GM 3 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for HPtuners software
MAP Sensor Linear: 329.41
MAP Sensor Offset: -6.35
GM 3.3 bar map sensor Linear and offsets for HPtuners software
MAP Sensor Linear: 333.33
MAP Sensor Offset: 33.33
Linked information from a website showing some map info

3 digit numbers for identification:
1 Bar: 039, 460, 883, 876, 153
2 Bar: 886, 012, 539, 609, 701
3 Bar: 749, 861

The logic module uses the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor to determine the absolute pressure (not the relative to atmospheric pressure) of the air inside the intake manifold and the atmosphere (barometric pressure).

This information is used to determine the density of the air entering the combustion chamber (in conjunction with the IAT(Intake Air temperature) sensor), which is used when calculating the proper air/fuel mixture for the engine, especially at WOT since the system is not in closed-loop at this time.

It is also used to help adjust the IAC(Idle Air Control) motor during idle.

It uses a silicon wafer that is thinner in the center (0.001") than around the edges (0.045"), which causes it to act as a diaphram.

It is mounted with a perfect vacuum beneath the chip so that the air pressure from the other side flexes the chip.

This flexing causes a change in resistance and the circuitry inside the sensor converts this to a voltage ranging from 0.02V to 4.94V when the output is pulled up towards 5V by the ECM(Electronic control module).

1 Bar MAP sensors are used on NA(naturally asperated) vehicles.
2 Bar MAP Sensors are used on forced induction vehicles(Turbo & Supercharged). They can measure up to 2x the apmospheric pressure(29.4psi), so that means it can measure up to 14.7psi boost(the atmosphere is 14.7psi + 14.7psi from the turbo/supercharger).
3 Bar MAP sensors can measure up to 44.1psi, which translates to 29.7psi boost from a Turbo/supercharger.
They all share a common pinout, although the connector keying may be different:

Pin A -- Ground
Pin B -- Sensor output
Pin C -- +5 volts

Places to order MAP Sensors
You can order them direct from:
www.SummitRacing.com
PN# MSD-2313 3bar MAP
PN# MSD-2312 2bar MAP
PN# MSD-2311 1bar MAP
or
www.GMPartsDirect.com
PN# 12223861 3bar MAP
PN# 16040609 2bar MAP
PN# 16137039 1bar MAP

The chart below describes the pressure-to-voltage relationship of the stock GM Turbo MAP sensor (2 bar):

MAP sensor output based on altitude (Ignition "ON" and engine stopped)
GM 1bar, 2bar, 3bar
1 PSI = 2.036" of Mercury (HG)
1" mercury = 0.4911541 PSI
Formula for the GM 3 Bar MAP sensor is (V*8.94)-14.53
I have no idea why it's 14.53 and not 14.696, [rounds up to 14.7] but it works out on GM's chart every time. It is possible that Detroit is slightly above sea level, and you can use 12.11 in the formula for 1 mile above sea level.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - 4 Bar map

If you have the newest version of Terminator V3 software, I have tested this drop down sensor as being 100% accurate 0-30psi with 3 sensors and 2 mechanical gauges confirming.

sites.google.com

4 Bar map

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - IAC Relearn

IAC Relearn Procedure If you are having idle issue you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked. 1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle

sites.google.com

IAC Relearn


IAC Relearn Procedure
If you are having idle issue you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and
TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have
used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position
is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart
logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
if you are not at your desired IAC position redo the above procedures in smaller
increments.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Is that a 4.8 or a 5.3?

Quick: Is That A 4.8L Or A 5.3L GM Gen III Engine? by Roy Berndt During our research of the General Motors Gen III engine family we continued to run up against a stumbling block of exterior identification between the 4.8L and 5.3L engines. It seemed that no matter who we spoke with, be it core

sites.google.com

Is that a 4.8 or a 5.3?


Quick: Is That A 4.8L Or A 5.3L GM Gen III Engine?
by Roy Berndt
During our research of the General Motors Gen III engine family we continued to run up against a stumbling block of exterior identification between the 4.8L and 5.3L engines. It seemed that no matter who we spoke with, be it core suppliers, wrecking yards, engineers or rebuilders, when asked how they differentiated between the 4.8L or 5.3L engine from the exterior, no one had a solid answer. As a matter of fact no one had any answer.
So we thought we would look at the internal component differences between these two engines and perhaps come to some solution of external identification.
These engines came on the scene in 1999 in General Motors truck applications and were the upcoming replacement for the original design small block engines (GenIE). They were a spinoff of the LS1, 5.7L passenger applications used in the Corvette, Camaro and Firebird two years prior. Just so we have all the ducks in a row, both of these engines are OHV, pushrod V8 engines with cast iron blocks and aluminum cylinder heads.
Because both engines use the same block (c/n 12551358), GM seemed to play what may be described as a cruel, twisted joke on us since it cast "4.8/5.3" right on the block both in the front and in the rear in large numbers. The only problem is that you never really know which engine that you have from the exterior. The standard cylinder bore for both engine applications is 96mm (3.779˝) however the stroke for the 4.8L is 83mm (3.268˝) and has a crankshaft casting number of 12553482 while the stroke for the 53L is 92mm (3.622˝) and that crankshaft casting number is 12552216. Looking at the two crankshafts just standing next to each other they do not have what you would consider an obvious difference in appearance.
The connecting rods for the two engines do provide us some visual identifiable differences.
The 4.8L connecting rod is longer in length and has the casting number 121 with an additional boss on the thrust face.
The 5.3L connecting rod is shorter with casting number 143 and no additional boss on the thrust face. Both connecting rods are PM (powder metal) with a "crack" parting face.
There is also a difference between the pistons of these two engines, the 4.8L has a flat dome and the 5.3L has a cup dome. Another thing that we noticed is that the 4.8L pistons from OE had a pink ink mark in the pin area and the 5.3L had a green mark.
The cylinder head for both engines is aluminum with a casting number of 862, however on the deck face area in a small cavity there is a 4.8 cast onto the cylinder head. Do not be confused by this cast number for the cylinder head is for both 4.8L and 5.3L engines.
So how does any of this help with our ability to discern between these two engines from the exterior? If the oil pan is off, you could look at the crankshaft casting number, only every time you want to do that your odds are about as good as an open face peanut butter and jelly bread hitting the floor face up. But you can look at the connecting rods and see if that additional boss is there, you have eight chances to do that! But do you really want to pull the oil pan if you don’t have to?
That leaves us with one option, pull a single or multiple spark plug(s) and look down the hole. Optimally, if you have a bend-a-light that will go into the spark plug hole you will have a better view. If you see a flat top piston, it is a 4.8L. If you have a cup top piston you have a 5.3L. That is the best we were able to find as a quick identifier. But it works and it is relatively easy. Best of all, it is definitive. So if you have someone who is trying to sell you a 5.3L you might want to pull a plug and make certain that it has a cup top piston, otherwise ...well, I guess it could always be an honest mistake.
SourcePERA casting identification research continues to be the best available information for the engine remanufacturing industry. Also be on the lookout for the new 2004 PERA Engine Application and Identification Catalog. For more information go to www.pera.org and contact Roy Berndt via email link.
Thanks for the numerous emails and phone calls in reference to the Gen III crankshaft reluctor wheel. For your information, the GM superceded part number for all applications is 12559353. The only available installation tooling we are aware of (including GM) is available from Goodson Shop Supplies, Winona, MN.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - LS Camshaft Sensor Sprocket or Gear & Crankshaft Relector ID Page

LS CAMSHAFT SENSOR SPROCKET OR GEAR & CRANKSHAFT RELECTOR ID PAGEA) Single bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2007-2009 LS2 or LS3 engine. 2009-2010 LSA engines. B) Three bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2006 LS2 Corvette or from a 2006-2009 LS7, 2009-2010 LS9. C) Three bolt 1X

sites.google.com

LS Camshaft Sensor Sprocket or Gear & Crankshaft Relector ID Page

LS CAMSHAFT SENSOR SPROCKET OR GEAR & CRANKSHAFT RELECTOR ID PAGEA) Single bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2007-2009 LS2 or LS3 engine. 2009-2010 LSA engines.
B) Three bolt 4X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2006 LS2 Corvette or from a 2006-2009 LS7, 2009-2010 LS9.
C) Three bolt 1X camshaft sprocket or gear from a 2005 LS2 Corvette or a 2005-2006 LS2 GTO, SSR or Trailblazer engine.
D) Three bolt camshaft sprocket or gear from a 1997-2004 LS1, LS6 or other Gen III V8 engines. No reluctor teeth are on the gear because the camshaft reluctor would be built into the camshaft core at the back of the engine.

Crankshaft reluctor wheel images:
Left image - 24X crankshaft reluctor wheel found on all Gen III V8 engines LS1, LS6, LQ4, LQ9 and early Gen IV V8 engines 2005 LS2 Corvette, 2005-2006 LS2 GTO, 2005-2006 LS2 SSR.
Right image - 58X crankshaft reluctor wheel found on later Gen IV V8 engines 2006-2007 Corvette LS2, 2006-2010 Corvette LS7, 2008-2010 Corvette LS3 etc. 2009-2010 LS9 & LSA.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - LS1 GENIII GM Gaskets seals and engine related Part Numbers

I thought I would post this all in one place. Please feel free to add to the list. I Still need some of the the GM numbers for some of the gasket, sensors, hardware any thing else for those that like to use OEM Gaskets and Seals so feel Free to add part numbers. ALL Gen lll Engine's Gasket and

sites.google.com

LS1 GENIII GM Gaskets seals and engine related Part Numbers


I thought I would post this all in one place. Please feel free to add to the list. I Still need some of the the GM numbers for some of the gasket, sensors, hardware any thing else for those that like to use OEM Gaskets and Seals so feel Free to add part numbers.
ALL Gen lll Engine's Gasket and Seals
#12574294 -Front Timing Cover Gasket
#12585673 -Front Timing Cover Crank Seal
#12574293 -Rear Cover Gasket
#89060436 -Rear Cover Main Seal
#12558760 -Valley Cover Gasket
#12558177 -Valley Cover Knock Sensor Seal SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12612045 -Valve Cover Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12577215 -Valve Cover Bolt with Groment SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12575329 -4.8L/5.3L GM MLS Head Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12498543 -LS1 5.7L GM Graphite Head Gasket 97-01 LS1/LS6 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12498544 -LS1 5.3L HO/5.7L GM MLS Head gasket LS1 02-04/ 05-07 5.3L HO KIT W/ 2 HEAD GASKETS
#12589226 -LS1 5.3L HO/5.7L GM MLS Head gasket LS1 02-04/ 05-07 5.3L HO SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12589227 -6.0L GM MLS Head Gasket SAME for LQ4, LQ9, LS2 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12582179 -LS7 GM MLS Head Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12610046 -LS3/L92 GM MLS Head Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12557752 -Oil Pump Pick up O ring w/o locator groove- GREEN in color WAS TOLD (C/K Trucks)
#12584922 -Oil Pump Pick up O ring w/ locator groove- RED in Color WAS TOLD (F and Y Cars)
#12482062 -Exahust Valve Seal SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12482063 -Intake Valve Seal SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12610311 -Water Pump Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#89060413 -Truck Intake manifold Gaskets- W/ GREEN Seals
#12617944 -Exhaust Manifold gasket for Most V8 LS applications fits LS1, LS2, LS3, L76, and L92 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12576221 -Exhaust Manifold gasket for the 2001 thru 2004 LS1 or LS6 Corvette. SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12587147 -Injector Seal Kit
#12552542 -Throttle Body Seal
#12551933 -Water tube cross over seal / block off seal SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12560251 -LS1-LS6 Intake gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#16194007 -Map Sensor Replacement Seal
#12482063 -L92 Valve Stem Seal Kit
#12558760 -L92 Oil Pan Gasket
#12610046 -L92 Head Gasket, 4.065" Bore SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12588372 -L92 Water Pump Gasket SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12556437 -L92 Camshaft Retainer w/ Seal
#12587099 -L92 Crankshaft Balancer Reverse Lip Seal
Gasket and Seal Kits
#12499228 -LS Series Engine Cam Swap Installation KIT The kit includes front engine cover gasket, water pump gasket, intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, balancer bolt, and front seal.
#12499217 -LS1 5.7L Cylinder Head Installation Kit The kit includes two head gaskets, two valve cover gaskets, eight manifold gaskets, two exhaust manifold gaskets, two intake manifold-to-block seals, 16 cylinder head bolts, and 14 cylinder head bolt/screws.
#89017252 -5.3L/4.8L Complete Head gasket kit
#12533587 -LS1-LS6 Intake Manifold Complete Seal KIT
#12499234 -LS1/LS6 Complete Piston Ring Set Standard Bore Size 3.898
#12499235 -5.3L/4.8L Complete Piston Ring Set 99-05 Standard BoreSize 3.78
#12499236 -6.0L LQ4/LQ9 Complete Piston Ring Set 99-05 Standard Bore Size 4.00
Sensors
#12601822 -Replacement Knock Sensor Harness for Truck
#12102621 -Just the Knock Sensor Connector Pig Tail
#12589867 -Knock Sensor SOLD AS A SINGLE
#16040609 -2 BAR MAP sensor
#12580698 -2 Bar MAP LSX engines
#12223861 -3 Bar sensor
#12561211 -CAM sensor LS1 ALL GEN 3 BASED MOTORS
#12560228 -CRANK sensor LS1 ALL GEN 3 BASED MOTORS
#16212460 -Map Sensor
#12570125 -L92 Knock Sensor SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12591720 -L92 Camshaft Position Sensor
#12585546 -L92 Crankshaft Position Sensor
#15326388 -L92 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
LS2 COILS HAVE 2 DESIGNS
#12573190 -ROUND SHAPED COILS
#12570616 -SQUARE SHAPED COILS
Internals/ External Part Numbers
#17122490 -GM LS7 Roller lifter This Number is for a single Lifter, They are packaged in sets of 8
#12499225 -GM LS7 Lifter Pack of 16 to 7000 RPM This is the number for a package of 16
#88958689 -GM High RPM Lifters Pack of 16 to 8000 RPM
#12586484 -Yellow Z06 Valve Spring Part number for 1 Spring
#12499224 -Yellow Z06 Valve Spring Set of 16 Springs
#10166344 -Retainer for all Factory springs SOLD AS A SINGLE
#10166345 -Keeper SOLD AS A SINGLE SET FOR ONE VALVE
#12551162 -Lifter Guide, LS1/LS6 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12595365 -Lifter Guide, LS2/LS7 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12551163 -Lifter Guide Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12569167 -L92 Intake Rocker Arm. SOLD AS A SINGLE
#10214664 -L92 Exhaust Rocker Arm. SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12600936 -L92 Rocker Arm Support Stand. SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12560961 -Rocker Arm Bolt for 4.8's, 5.3's, LS1, LS6, LS2, L76, and L92. Does NOT fit the LS7!
#12571595 -L92 Hydraulic Roller Two-Stage Valve Lifter [SOLD AS A SINGLE
#17122490 -L92 Hydraulic Roller Two-Stage Valve Lifter SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12571596 -L92 Front Lifter Guide SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12571608 -L92 Rear Lifter Guide SOLD AS A SINGLE
#89018058 -L92 spark plug wires
#12600767 -L92 Water pump
#12551926 -L92 Water Pump Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12587395 -L92Water Pump Inlet
#11516480 -L92 Water Pump Inlet Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12584727 -L92 Block
#12560272 -L92 Main Cap Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12560273 -L92 Main Cap Stud SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12556127 -L92 Main Cap Side Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12563918 -L92 Dipstick Tube
#12574888 -L92 Dipstick
#11519772 -L92 Long Cylinder Head Bolt M11 x 2 x 100 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12558840 -L92 Short Cylinder Head Bolt M8 x 1.25 x 45 SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12590771 -L92 Intake Valve SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12582719 -L92 Exhaust Valve SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12557840 -L92 Crankshaft Balancer Bolt, M16 x 2.0 x 103
#12576652 -L92 Crankshaft Balancer
#12556582 -L92 Crankshaft Sprocket
#12561513 -L92 Crankshaft Key
#12584997 -L92 Crankshaft Assembly
#12602448 -L92 Flywheel
#12585994 -L92 Camshaft Position Actuator
#12588151 -L92 Camshaft Position Actuator Valve
#11561283 -L92 Camshaft Bolt, M16 x 1.5 x 63
#89018166 -Truck Water Pump
#89018053 -LS1, LS2, LS6 Water Pump
#89018052 -LS2, LS3 and LS7 Corvette Water Pump Only
#12586482 -GM HD Timing Chain
#12576407 -cam gear LS1- Trucks
#12586481 -cam gear LS2
#12556582 -crank gear
#12565308 -02-04 LS6 Cam
#12571251 -05-07 LS7 Cam
#12553118 -LS1 LS2 Balancer for car aplications
#12576652 -TRUCK Balancer for 4.8 5.3 6.0
#12557840 -Balancer bolt
#12586665 -OIL Pump
#12573460 -Rear Oil diverter W/Oring (AKA the Barbell in the back of the block)
#12560272 -Main Cap Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12560273 -Main Cap Bolt W/Stud for windage tray SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12556127 -Cross Bolts though the block into the side's of the main caps SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12570326 -Cylinder Head Dowl Locator SOLD AS A SINGLE
#89060420 -Fuel Presure Regulator Truck Return style fuel systems
#88862586 -EOS GM's Engine Assemebly Lube Oil Additive 1 Quart
#12559353 -24x Reluctor wheel
#12586768 -58x Reluctor wheel
#12563918 -Truck Dipstick Tube 99-07
#12558684 -Truck Dipstick 99-01
#12610053 -Truck Dipstick 02-07
#15203890 -HD OIL Cooler Line set 99-04
#12570623 -Oil Filler Tube
#89017365 -Truck Intake 4.8, 5.3, 6.0
#88894339 -LS6 Intake Manifold KIT w/o EGR This kit includes the intake manifold, intake seal P/N 12560251, intake manifold gasket kit P/N 12533587, throttle body seal P/N 12552542, map sensor P/N 16212460, map sensor seal P/N 16194007.
#12552344 -LS6 Intake manifold bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12568002 -LS6 Valley Cover
#12573109 -LS6 Valley Cover pcv tube
#12554679 -Clip that hold the injectors to the fuel rail SOLD AS A SINGLE
#24500246 -Clip that holds the fuel regulator to the fuel rail SOLD AS A SINGLE
#12602448 -Standard Fly Wheel All LS1, LS2, LS3 engines To 4L60E/4L65E/4L70E
4L80E Conversion part numbers
#15000206 -Converter dust cover
#12551367 -6.0L Flexplate
#12563532 -6.0L Crank Spacer
#12553332 -Flexplate bolts SOLD AS A SINGLE (6 required)
#15198439 -4L80E Dipstick tube
#15183801 -4L80E Dipstick
#15013290 -4L80E Shift cable bracket at transmission
#11589040 -4L60/65/70/80/85E Toque converter bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE (6 required)
#15767858 -The tranny mount can be re-used because they use the same part number.
14 BOLT 9.5 SF Part Numbers
#3920486 -u-joint straps for 1350 U Joint SOLD AS A SINGLE (2 Required)
#14018700 -Strap Bolt SOLD AS A SINGLE (4 Required)
#19180849 -Axle Shaft Seal SOLD AS A SINGLE (2 Required)
#26064029 -Pinion Seal
#26063649 -Rear Diff Cover Gasket
#19133288 -Rear Diff Cover
#457108 -Inner Pinion bearing
#9417781 -Outer Pinion Bearing
#11505123 -Diff Side Bearing SOLD AS A SINGLE (2 Required)
#9439561 -Wheel Bearing SOLD AS A SINGLE (2 Required)
#12479321 -Carrier Gear kit W/O Limited Slip
#26060414 -Carrier Pin W/O Limited Slip
#12471409 -Carrier Gear kit W Limited Slip
#14012700 -Carrier Pin W Limited Slip
#12337937 -Gear side washer W/O Limited Slip
#14039026 -Pinion Washer W Limited Slip
#12471390 -Right Clutch for Limited Slip
#12471408 -Left Clutch for Limited Slip
This is what I found for Head Bolts.... 99-03... NOT sure on 04-UP Individual #'s
OK THERE ARE 3 DIFFERENT SIZE BOLTS.
#12558840 -SHORT...YOU NEED 10 Total
#12560745 -MED... YOU NEED 4 Total
#11588291 -LONG... YOU NEED 16 Total
Those are the totals needed to do Both heads.
From experince, I have found it is More expensive to get them individual through the dealer, then it is to get a Head bolt Kit from some one...
#12498545 -Should be a Head bolt Kit for 97-03 SOLD AS A SINGLE with the above 3 part numbers in it. YOU NEED 2 KITS
#17800568 -Should be a Head bolt Kit for 04-UP SOLD AS A SINGLE Not Sure On Individual part numbers. YOU NEED 2 KITS
GM Remanufactured LongBlock's
#12491851 - 4.8 LR4
#12491854 - 5.3 LM7/L59
#12491357 - 6.0 LQ4
#12491860 - 6.0 LQ9

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - LS1 style Low Mount Alternator

http://www.retrorat.com/2012/05/lsx-lm7-low-mount-alternator-diy.html?m=1 credit to the source! this is just the LS1 style that came on camaros and firebirds but most people do not know you can drill and tap the iron truck motor and mount it all up, there is great resources here and they show how

sites.google.com

LS1 style Low Mount Alternator


http://www.retrorat.com/2012/05/lsx-lm7-low-mount-alternator-diy.html?m=1
credit to the source! this is just the LS1 style that came on camaros and firebirds but most people do not know you can drill and tap the iron truck motor and mount it all up, there is great resources here and they show how to do everything with pictures.

https://sites.google.com/site/slopp...yle-low-mount-alternator?authuser=0#h.p_ID_36
LSx (LM7) Low Mount Alternator DIY

Parts needed. Note this will delete your power steering pump and a/c and add more HP. Plus it will remove that nasty looking truck alternator bracket.

1. Fbody Alternator Part #12563327. GmPartsDirect.com $20+shipping.
2. Ribbed Pulley - Gates Part #38008 = $20 O Reilly
3. Gates Belt – K060547 – $20 O Reilly
4. 2 Long Bolts for alternator bracket (M10 x 1.5 140MM long). I ordered mine from Grainger for $10 and received 5 of them.
5. 1 Shorter M10x1.5 about 50mm for ribbed pulley
6. A 1/4 – 3/8 washer. You might have to drill out the center. Depending on what you get. This acts as a spacer on the back side of the ribbed pulley.
7. 10mm x 1.5 Tap
8. 11/32 drill bit
9. 3/4 in spacer to space the alternator off the block to line up with the water pump and crank pulley. You will also need some type of straight edge to make sure you get it right.

Look at this HIDEOUS truck mount for the alternator. Talk about the MILE high club.

Tap your block here. I screwed in the lower bolt to the fbody alternator bracket and used a pencil to mark dead center on where the new hole needs to be threaded.

Then I drilled the hole a little over an inch deep with a 11/32 drill bit.

Now we need to tap it. Use some tapping oil or watch a YouTube video if your not sure how to do this. Make sure you drill it straight and tap it straight otherwise your screwed and you really only have one shot at this.

Tapping the threads is the scary part. Error on using lots of oil and pulling out (lolz) and cleaning it after each turn.
I ended up cutting my 3/4 in spacers using the ones on the original truck bracket. One was exactly 3/4 the other I had to grind down a bit.

Use your 1/4 – 3/8 spacer on the back side of your ribbed pulley. This should be enough to line it up with your crank pulley. Check with flat edge. Make sure to go from the first rib on the pulley and not the front. When lining it up.
Here is the end result.

It looks 1000X better.

I hope this helps you out. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - LSX Head cast numbers / flow /swap info

Here is what I have found. ALL Gen III heads are interchangable. How ever, They need to be matched up with the proper engine combo to see any gains. Here is a list of a known production casting #'s: 933 97 aluminum perimeter bolt 5.7 806 97-98 aluminum perimeter bolt 5.7 853 99-00 aluminum

sites.google.com

LSX Head cast numbers / flow /swap info


Here is what I have found.
ALL Gen III heads are interchangable. How ever, They need to be matched up with the proper engine combo to see any gains.
Here is a list of a known production casting #'s:
933 97 aluminum perimeter bolt 5.7
806 97-98 aluminum perimeter bolt 5.7
853 99-00 aluminum center bolt 5.7
241 01-03 aluminum center bolt 5.7 (some late MY00 cars got 241 castings)
243 04 up LS6 aluminum center bolt 5.7 ***These castings were also used around 05 in truck applications***
862 99 and up 4.8-5.3 Truck heads
706 99 and up 4.8-5.3 Truck heads
799 05 and up 4.8-5.3Truck heads ***reportedly came on a few corvette's too*** These are basically 243 Heads
873 99-00 LQ4 6.0 Iron center bolt heads
317 01 and up LQ4 and LQ9 6.0 aluminum center bolt heads
035 01 - 04 LQ9 6.0 aluminum center bolt heads
Even more detailed info:
Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
12559853 (1999-00)
12564241 (2000-03)
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 66.67 cc------0.100--0.200---0.300---0.400---0.500---0.550--0.600
Intake 200 cc------------67----122-----178-----215-----219-----223---227
Exhaust 70 cc------------52-----97-----133-----156-----170-----76----180
What you need to know:
The standard issue LS1 heads is best all-around head for the street / strip engines . A thorough porting and millimg job plus a valve upgrade on these will really wake up your engine.The heads have undergone only minor revisions since their introduction in 1997 , most notably a switch from perimeter to center valvcover bolt configuration for the 1999 model year. Each style has its own dedicated valvecovers and coilpacks mounting apparatus.
Casting Number 243
Head: 2001 LS6 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12564243
Combustion Chamber Volume: 64.45cc
Compression Ratio: 10.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 64.45 cc-------0.100---0.200--0.300--0.400---0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 210 cc------------62------126----184----224-----251----256----257
Exhaust 75 cc------------57------108----143----163-----176----180----183
What you need to know:
The LS6 cylinder heads is essentially a tuned-up version of the LS1 head. At 65cc, the combustion chamber is slightly smaller and more efficient than the LS1. The more efficient design shortens burn times and ultimately means less ignition timing advance is required to produce the same power. And because less timing allows more efficient combustion, the Ls6 heads allow the engine to produce more torque. The exhaust port is a unique D-shape that improves flow. LS6 heads are the best choice only when all-out power is needed. Be prepared for a big price tag at the dealer or steep core charge from your head porter.
Casting Number 706 and 862
Head: 1999+ 4.8L / 5.3 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559862
12561706
Combustion Chamber Volume: 61.15cc
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 1.89 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 61.15 cc----0.100--0.200--0.300-- 0.400--0.500---0.550---0.600
Intake 200 cc----------63 ---128----179-----210----218----221-----226
Exhaust 70 cc----------54 -- 93 ----121----145-----163----168----174
What you need to know:
These small combustion chamber truck heads offer no advantage over an LS1 head except the smaller combustion chamber. This along with milling of the deck surface will allow a slightly higher compression ratio to be achieved. Because of the smaller intake valve installed in these heads a valve upgrade is practically mandatory.
Casting Number 873
Head: 1999-2000 LQ4 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: ***Cast Iron***
Part Number:
12561873
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Casting Number 317, 035
Head: 2001+ LQ4 and LQ9 6.0 Liter Truck
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12562317 -LQ4
12572317 -LQ9
12572035 -LQ9
Combustion Chamber Volume: 71.06cc
Compression Ratio: 10:1 LQ9 Flat top pistons
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1 LQ4 Dish piston
Intake Port Volume: 210cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 75cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 71.06cc----0.100---0.200--0.300--0.400--0.500--0.550--0.600
Intake 210cc-----------66-----142-----196---228----236---238-----240
Exhaust 75cc----------59-----104-----137---155----167---173-----177
What you need to know:
The LQ4 head received aluminum heads starting in models year 2001. All other features are the same as previous years iron heads. This is the workhorse head for street / strip turbo and blower cars. They offer a large combustion chamber that lowers compression ratio making them perfect for a forced induction application. Swapping on the LQ4 head drops the compression ratio of a typical LS1 engine to 9:5.1
The Cast-iron casting are heavy!
So you want to figure out how much to mill:
It takes about .005" milling of the block deck to remove 1cc of volume. It takes .007" milling to remove 1cc from an LS1 head
Simple Milling Math:
You have a stock 66cc chamber and you want to get down to 63cc
66-63 = 3. You have to remove 3cc's
.007 x 3 = .021. So to get your 66cc chambers down to 63cc you'd have to mill ~.021.
You can also do the reverse, say you want to mill a head .030 to figure out how many CC's that removes you take .030 / .007 = ~ 4.28. Milling a stock 5.7 head .030 puts your chamber at ~ 62.
241 cast heads were Die Cast which is a process that smooths up the ports a bit compared to the Sand Cast procedure that was done on the 806 and 853 heads. Once ported any "advantage" the 241 cast had is moot.
Same Info applies to the:
4.8L/5.3L Truck 862 and 706 Head castings
While the 706 Heads are a SPM = Semi Permanent-mold And considerd to be a more consistant head casting then the 862 wich are Sand cast, Once ported There Is no difference.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
799 Vs. 243 Info Copied From pillboxesghost Post's in ths threadhttp://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...l#post10241473
This appears to be one of the common misconceptions about heads having the 243 casting no. -- they are not necessarily LS6 head assemblies. The LS2 heads (243 or 799 casting) have the "heavy" standard LS1 valves. However, they do have the LS6 springs.
Only the true LS6 engine heads have stainless steel (not titanium) hollow stem valves (the exhaust stems are sodium filled). These valves are slightly longer than LS1 valves too.
The LS7 heads do have titanium valves.
New LS2 heads are about half the price of new LS6 heads (check sdparts.com). GM is "really proud" of those hollow stem valves!
Oh, if you have the 799 castings -- the only thing "Corvette" about them is the valve springs/retainers! Still a desirable set of LS1 heads though!
Supposedly, the 243 mold was done at GM Research, the 799 mold furnished to other vendors. The same vendor may have the 243 and 799 mold.
Both heads have identical sized intake and exhaust valves

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Megasquirt or Stock PCM?

you might be asking yourself, what the fuck do i use?! i have used both, they both work great in my opinion. here is how i decide. Do i want to use a GM electronic overdrive trans? YES - use the stock computer and harness setup NO - use a Microsquirt powered setup here is why, there is no good way

sites.google.com

Megasquirt or Stock PCM?


you might be asking yourself, what the fuck do i use?!
i have used both, they both work great in my opinion.
here is how i decide.

Do i want to use a GM electronic overdrive trans?
YES - use the stock computer and harness setup
NO - use a Microsquirt powered setup

here is why, there is no good way to easily make an 80e or 60e work the way i like it to with megasquirt.
the stock pcm shifts, locks, unlocks, handles all the electronic shifting and on top of this! it even runs the motor.
if you are picky and you absolutely have to have IDLE air control or closed loop fueling etc on your setup i would say stock computer is also better.

in reality if you have a manual trans, or th400 or something like that, the microsquirt is a better solution for a toy, it might not have idle air control out of the box, but the cars start and run fine, you just set the idle slightly high, or hold the gas pedal for 30 seconds if its super cold.
the benefit for a MS based computer is boost cut, anti lag launch control, and extremely simple fuel and spark tables.

the stock pcm can be insanely complicated with flashing and thousands of tables in the stock ecu, but if you build a similar setup to the tunes i have avaiable, just like the megasquirt tunes.

the car will run and you can go from there.

example of plug and play Microsquirt setup modified for 24x LS engines from EFI source (the owner is a friend of mine and we tested and tuned the harness and box for ls motors they work great)

http://www.efisource.com/shop/ls1-24x-modified-microsquirt-ecu-with-plug-and-play-harness/

example of stock pcm harness sales ( i have bought many harneses from them and they work great, also you can option them out etc)
http://psiconversion.com/

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - plugwire solutions

highlighting some plugwire solutions for people, as some engine bays are tight, and you cant get the manifold down and forward for good plug wire clearance, mostly on things like Gbody or Nova, camaro front ends with the double wishbone front end taking up the space next to the block, people

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plugwire solutions


highlighting some plugwire solutions for people, as some engine bays are tight, and you cant get the manifold down and forward for good plug wire clearance, mostly on things like Gbody or Nova, camaro front ends with the double wishbone front end taking up the space next to the block, people running a log or forward facing header having trouble with plugwires fitting and or burning plug wires ends, etc.
you can flip manifolds up and forward, and buy a simple plug wire relocation kit and mount the coils and whatnot underneath if you have the room and then attach the stock wires.
people use something like this
LSx-LS1-LS6-Ignition-Coil-Relocation-Brackets-and-Harness-Extension-24-14019K-/221976337316

below is similar installed on a Nova for clearance

other things we have done, include buying LT1 plugwire set's from Autozone wich are some long and short's, this is great in a pinch but you have tons of extra wire in some cases and you route it all over the place, other times i have seen people mount the coil packs to the firewall and run the lt1 wires up under the headers for good clearance
below is a photo of us having plugwire issues with up and overs on the dyno, running to AZ and just installing the LT1 wires all over where we could to get the dyno tuning done

the other option is up and over or around the side
recently we found NASCAR take off plug wires on ebay for sale from 9-90 dollars seems like there is a long and a shorter set for sale, they both work but the up and over shorter work great, similar to the longer g6 or 3.5 v6 malibu plugwires we were getting out of the junkyard that go up and over the manifold nice and support themselves on a short hoop
in the photo below you can see how the plugwires are on a 90deg boot and then go up and over the manifold nicely and plug right into the spark plug, these are only certain length ones off the g6/3.5l set, so its not like you can buy a set and create the same effect.

the two photos below are the longer "nascar" take off ebay wires routed the long way around the turbo header and block giving you more ideas.

here is a photo of the coronet with the short "ebay nascar" resell wires hooped around a up and forward manifold

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Sloppy Guide to Junkyard Turbo LSx Builds

**Currently typing this up and adding to it ** stay tuned for updates ** So you want a turbo LS series junkyard Mill powering your shitbox into a pavement punishing "tyre fryer", and you're not sure where to start. Since this is the pandora's box of starting mountain sized arguements, Ill start

sites.google.com

Sloppy Guide to Junkyard Turbo LSx Builds


**Currently typing this up and adding to it ** stay tuned for updates **

So you want a turbo LS series junkyard Mill powering your shitbox into a pavement punishing "tyre fryer", and you're not sure where to start. Since this is the pandora's box of starting mountain sized arguements, Ill start with the minimal, tell you what I know and also give you my opinion on what is a waste of time and money. This can be as easy as going strait from the Junkyard into your car, or spend a small fortune on a stock engine, it all depends on the owner and your goals, and how much you want to spend.

Alright, lets begin with, This is going to be budget minded, I will start by explaining what you need, get the car running, and then again more budget minded add ons maximizing power per dollar only, All Killer, no Filler.

Engine Selection
The standard junkyard long blocks, Including! but not limited too! the 4.8/5.3/6.0 in my favorite flavor, Tired Iron.

Here is the bread and butter of the LS swap engines. Cheap, Effective, and manufactured in extreme bulk, 99-13ish (since 14 is now the direct injected LT series engine pouring in.) Vans, Trucks, Chassis, SUV's you name it. You can get lucky some days and maybe even find a ls1, ls2, l76, ls3, and some kind of car based alum engine. Or other crazy things, but don't count on it. Engine Codes and names and all that bullshit aside. ALL OF THESE ENGINES ARE EXCELLENT, quit being weird about needing a 6.0 only, or LS1-2-3 only. Listen, you have a budget, and you don't have a motor, Just get one and put it in the damn car.

I would say the most common is the "LM7" 5.3l motor in the 99-03 years. the 4.8 sometimes easier to find since who would want a shitty 4.8 right?

also people will tell you, only get a late model, or newer gen4 motor, talking about pistons and rods etc etc, Listen, the later year model engines do have "better" or more robust rods, and they have a floating piston, but we have gone extremely fast with the "shitty" gen 3 motors, and you can too... Furthermore, people will have the opportunity to buy a complete 4.8/5.3 for 500 dollars, oil pan to throttle, all coils, wires, sensors, etc. They will get what I commonly refer to as 6.0 envy, and instead, buy a 6.0 shorblock or largely incomplete longblock for 600+ instead. Stop and think, what the fuck are you doing. You're going to spend hundreds tracking down all the little nit pick shit to get that motor running. More commonly I have seen shit 6.0s for sale like this and people will buy into a problematic motor instead of just getting a running 5.3 or god forbit the junk 4.8.

We have to go on here so I will end my tangent. You can refer to other articles on the site to get information about the engines and more on the heads, casting numbers, dimensions and more.

Use your money wisely
This sounds obvious, but get whatever engine is most complete and in known good shape for your dollar, easiest thing you can do is pull the valve covers and see how clean the valve train is, make sure there isn't a rod hanging out of the block and the engine spins with some drag meaning the rings are not total shit. This is a funny statement because we have had some absolute sludge beast motors, looked like they were filled with wax, smoked terribly but made tons of power problem free haha. Try to get the engine Oil pan, to throttle, including coil packs, be weary buying an engine from someone they disassembled, why did they take it apart? why would you take it apart, its assembled and running, don't fuck with it haha. Obviously the more you start with the less you have to chase down or possibly buy incorrectly. Once you get into the mind set of just adding 20 dollars in stuff on top of everything you are getting, your budget will go to shit and you wont know why... you could have had a running swap for 2000 and you spent 6000 dollars and you don't even have a turbo, and you are cursing me out.

Early vs Late model Gen3-Gen4 Engines
Later year engines have benefits like better cyl heads, beefier rods and floating pistons, bear in mind they also come with bullshit like, DOD, VVT, expensive intakes and throttles, you will possibly need to buy items to delete and remove these things off the engine for performance setups, they might have failed or be ready to fail and give you issues etc. Keep in mind that you might need to spend the money on all these things when choosing a newer engine. My opinion is if you can get the 04-06 engine, 24x crank trigger, with beefier rods, and floating pistons, that runs all the old equipment pcm wise and has the most simple setups... In my opinion are the best engines to start with, since you will have room to grow pretty far, but still a simple start, and no complicated hardware.
LS1-Gen3 style cam position sensor on the back of the block

LS2 front read cam position cover on the first gen3 style engines and now on all gen4 motors

Hardware, sensor, internals, and other blended technology over years of gen3 to gen4 engines
what is tricky about choosing a junkyard motor is they blended years and items, hardware and technology over year make and model.
Ill try to briefly cover this, the first gen3 engines, have a 24x crank trigger, rear read cam position sensor, and very simple hardware, return fuel rails on the trucks, easy to use stuff... Now you see around 03 they started making the LS2 style motor, electronic throttle (in early corvettes also) and they moved the cam position sensor to the front timing cover.

next up floating style pistons and thicker rods, started going into the cars, then i think it went into the trucks next, and eventually hit things like vans, chassis truck etc, an easy way to tell if a motor is a gen3 but with the good internals, it will have the rear cam read, on the back of the "lifter valley" and have 13mm header bolts, and 13mm lifter valley bolts. They installed the larger head bolts at the same time they did the Internals, this has proved true in our experience so far.

Now that you have the most complete engine in any size for your swap car. We can move on.

How much power do you want to make, what is your goal
This is where it all goes wrong most times, most people come out swinging and say I need to make 800whp or I dont even want to start, Truthfully 500whp through a turbo automatic is enough to boil tire at highway speeds in most cars and make most people shit their pants.
How much power and what your goal for the vehicle is pretty important, I try to explain to everyone from what i have learned, almost everything numbers and slang wise about cars, is totally irrelevant. You need to see your build in the Currency of Horsepower... how much power you want to make will dictate your turbo size, build requirements, fuel system size, cam selection, trans, rear, converter, everything.
The one thing that everything can be compared to, directly is how much power it will make, or break, or take to create the power.
for most people 500-600wheel in a turbo LS car in the 3000lb range is flat out scary, or awesome, depends on who you are.

but that much actual power to the tire is enough to put a 3300lb notch into the 9s at 140mph, that is pretty fast, not sure who you are but 9s hauls the mail with a car you can drive to tractor supply and buy cat food.

if you have no idea what to do, i would say totally copy one of my standard setups that is proven, youll be pretty fuckin happy with it.

Recipie for 500-600whp Junkyard Turbo LS build
quick and dirty it goes like this

acquire junkyard LS engine, leave it totally stock other than installing Pac1218 valvesprings and boost it, or install a turbo cam under .600 lift (limit of the pac1218s)

install 80lb siemens deka injectors in stock intake, add 044 external or walbro400 internal fuel pump to vehicle (proven to support over 600whp so far by themselves)

3/8ths fuel line is fine, install any chinese 70-80mm turbo ($220-550, and 50-60mm wastegate $60-120)

use megasquirt or stock pcm and tune it or have someone tune it on pumpgas and methanol... wham 500-600whp

Links to items i mentioned and where i buy them:
I actually have KIT from VSracing where he grouped my most commonly bought items in one flat rate with adjustable upgrade items including injectors and all, VIREN who owns VS racing is SUPER smart and helpful and he can field tons of questions.

• check out the DENMAH (sloppy mechanics) turbo kit
• Walbro 400 in tank fuel pump ( you should install this in a stock style basket EFI tank )
• Bosch 044 style external pump (will require funny fittings to fit the strait metric threads on both sides
• look for them on jay racing
• 80lb siemens deka injectors ( approx 300-375 shipped, pay attention to the connector ev1 or ev6 for your setup when you buy)
• on3 76mm turbo (i have used this on 2 builds, very happy with it since its smaller and easy to use, makes great power)
• 50mm EMUSA wastegate (works great, basically any gate in the 50-60mm range for 75-150 dollars works awesome)
• 200 dollar cooling mist base methanol kit ( i use this or something similar everytime)
• EFI source's modified Microsquirt computer and pigtail harness (you wire this yourself)
• EFI sources plug and play microsquirt setup for LS engines (comes with plug and play harness)
• then i always get JDM sport couplers, 16-20 dollars shipped, stock throttle is 3.75 coupler size, then get strait, 90, 45deg bend, and 3 or 2.5 inch piping for intercooler piping
• here is a FMIC and piping kit good for 600-700wheel hp you can get them in all sorts of sizes, couplers, lengths, they come with clamps, couplers, intercooler, use 3 inch at the most or 2.5 inch easier to fit

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - sloppy stage 2

a budget cam that seems to tick all the boxes, cheap, effective, lower lift, good for all motor and turbo applications making it an easy go to. sold as jegs, trickflow, elgin and more, available on amazon, ebay and more now if you hunt around or wait for deals sometimes you can find this cam on

sites.google.com

sloppy stage 2


a budget cam that seems to tick all the boxes, cheap, effective, lower lift, good for all motor and turbo applications making it an easy go to.
sold as jegs, trickflow, elgin and more, available on amazon, ebay and more
now if you hunt around or wait for deals sometimes you can find this cam on ebay or jegs for 238
/ sloppy stage 2 on jegs
/ Sloppy stage 2 on amazon
/ on comp products website
/ sloppy stage 2 sold as trickflow cam on summit
Elgin Hydraulic Roller Camshaft - E1840P
Chev Gen III/IV (LS Series) 3-Bolt '97-Present
Adv. Duration: 283/286
Duration @ .050": 228/230
Lift: .585/.585
Lobe Separation: 112 LC
2200-7000, great mid range torque and power.
hey remind me again how that sloppy stage 2 sounds

here is an overlay of a totally stock 2008 4.8 truck engine hp measured at the rear tire in blue
then the elgin 1840p and longtube headers and tuning in red with the same 4.8 truck engine.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Spark Plugs

What spark plugs do I use in my turbo or nitrous LS based engine?! Well 99% of the time I Use NGK TR6 plug, and I gap them at at least 25 to start, because I will nearly always shoot for 20-22lbs of boost, and if you gap them around 30 you will get blowout. we also use the BR7 EF plug when running

sites.google.com

Spark Plugs

What spark plugs do I use in my turbo or nitrous LS based engine?!
Well 99% of the time I Use NGK TR6 plug, and I gap them at at least 25 to start, because I will nearly always shoot for 20-22lbs of boost, and if you gap them around 30 you will get blowout.
we also use the BR7 EF plug when running higher hp, or over 14psi on cars without methanol, or if you just want to be super safe you can run it, fairly cold plug for low boost or low hp application, if you are in an area where its super hot or your compression is high etc might be a good choice
If you goto the parts store ask for a

Quick picture of what i like a turbo LS plug to look like
this is a pumpgas+methanol car on 19lbs, a 5.3 with a master power 70mm street car
19psi and 11deg of timing, the base near the threads is sooty and black, the porcelan is gold bown, and the electrode strap is even color with a discoloration mark in the center
there are no marks, or speckles or noisy parts of the plug, just smooth colors and shades everywhere, clean and dry, no oil, sometimes spraying methanol or washer fluid, if it has a color like yellow, blue or green, you will see this on the plug, dont be scared that it is antifreeze, its just the methanol coloring.

this photo below is one of the plugs out of my fairmont #3, a pull after 22lbs of boost, 12deg timing, pumpgas+methanol/washer fluid mix
4.8l with a 76mm turbo, plug looks awesome, 11.0 AFR on this pull little sooty but i like it that way, the motors love it.

Again what you are looking for, in the correct timing range is the mark to be in the center of the bend, ideally, i like to see it at the top of that red mark, farther away from the threads, because im my experience you make the same power from the top or the bottom of the bend, just safer at the top of course.

Reading the Heat range on the plug

fuel ring markings

for instance here is a car i recently tuned, where we had it on 7psi 19deg, you can see the annealing mark is low, going to wards the threads, we pulled 2deg out of the car and made the same amount of power, much safer tuneup, and raised the mark on the plug strap

Below is another example of what i think is a perfect reading, good color, perfect point of discoloration on the strap on a BR7EF
(spark plug shown is from John Potucek's blow thru carb turbo LS build)

this is a turbo 5.3 street car, that i street tuned on 14psi 14deg, high 10 afr to be safe, you can see its sooty and the mark is right on the bend

another turbo LS car with a satisfactory plug

E85 plugs out of my truck right on the limit of power per deg, ethanol plugs have a slightly yellow color from what i see

marks race car on E85, after running low 8s right on the money even a little conservative

here is three in a row out of camerons [email protected] pass on his SBE E85 crown vic

and another in the shutdown at the track

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Tons of General LS Information - oil pan, accessories, cyl heads, etc

LS SERIES CRANKSHAFT RELUCTORS AND SENSORS LS based motors use 2 different reluctor rings and sensors (24x and 58x). There are also 3 different bolt patterns for the flywheel/flexplate : 6-bolt, 8-bolt and 9-bolt. Proper orientation of the crank ring is required if switching the reluctors.

sites.google.com

Tons of General LS Information - oil pan, accessories, cyl heads, etc

LS SERIES CRANKSHAFT RELUCTORS AND SENSORS
LS based motors use 2 different reluctor rings and sensors (24x and 58x). There are also 3 different bolt patterns for the flywheel/flexplate : 6-bolt, 8-bolt and 9-bolt. Proper orientation of the crank ring is required if switching the reluctors. Below are photos of the orientation of the rings. You will notice on both rings, there are triangular/arrowed windows that align with 2 bolt holes, and the non-windowed portions of the ring cover the crankshaft throw weights. A 24x pickup ring uses a black colored crankshaft sensor, a 58x pickup ring uses a gray colored crankshaft sensor. The connectors are also differently keyed between the 2 sensors.

LS based engines use 1.7:1 ratio rocker arms, LS7 engines use 1.8:1 ratio rocker arms


LS GEN III SMALL BLOCK CHEVROLET CYLINDER HEAD CASTING #'S

LEGEND
AL = ALUMINUM HEADS, CI = CAST IRON HEADS

CATHEDRAL (LS1/LS6/LS2/LQ9/LQ4)
MLS (multi layer) head gaskets are compatible with LSx cylinder heads that have a flat deck surface (without a pocket)

RECTANGULAR (LS3/L92/L76/L99)

LS7

LS SERIES GEN III INTAKE MANIFOLDS

There were many different intakes used on the LS series motors. There are designs for each head style : cathedral port (LS1/LS2/LS6/4.8/5.3/6.0), rectangular port (LS3/L92) and LS7. There are also different style height intakes : car platform and truck platforms. You can interchange intakes as long as you use the same cylinder head design, and use the corresponding fuel rails, injectors and throttle bodies (as certain models have different bolt patterns).

THROTTLE BODY DIFFERENCES

• There are 2 different mechanical throttle body arms. The photo on the left is the short arm, it can be easily recognized from the round collar. The photo on the right is the long arm, and the collar is straight. You must use either an adjustable throttle cable, or a throttle cable specific to that throttle body for the throttle to open properly.
• There are also 2 basic throttle bodies : car and truck. The difference is the coolant passage for water pump clearance and the breather hose angle (for throttle bracket clearance)

FUEL INJECTORS

LS SERIES III VALVE COVER BOLT PATTERNS

Although there are many different valve covers for many different applications, there are basically 2 different valve covers : perimeter bolt valve covers, and center bolt valve covers. The perimeter bolt valve covers were used on 97-98 Corvettes and 98 Camaros and Firebirds. All other models used the center bolt valve covers. On the perimeter bolt valve covers, the ignition coils bolt directly to the valve cover. On the center bolt valve covers, the ignition coils bolt to a bracket, which in turn bolts to the valve cover. This is to facilitate the removal of the valve cover when necessary.



LS SERIES III VALVE COVER BREATHER DIFFERENCES

There are many different model valve covers, all specific to each application, but for swap purposes, you can get around having the exact cover. All the LS models have the oil filler on the passenger valve cover (except LS7). Breather locations (the small tubes on the outside of the covers) differ between models for intake purposes, however, they are all just breathers.



LS SERIES GEN III FRONT DRIVE CONFIGURATIONS





98-02 LS1 CAMARO & FIREBIRD



97-04 LS1/LS6 CORVETTE



04-06 LS6 CTS-V





04-06 LS1/LS2 GTO



99-07 4.8/5.3/6.0 TRUCK



05-07 LS2/LS7 CORVETTE



LS SERIES GEN III HARMONIC BALANCERS

There are basically 3 different harmonic balancers that effect belt spacing : (1) Corvette and Cadillac (car), (2) Camaro/Firebird and GTO, (3) Truck series and SUV. As you can clearly see, the distance between the crankshaft end and where the belt rides are different in all 3. All of the LS based balancers are neutral balanced, and can be installed on any LS application as long as the same platform accessories are used.



LS SERIES GEN III WATER PUMP PULLEY DRIVE LOCATIONS

The Corvette, Camaro, Firebird and GTO all share the same water pump, even though they use different depth balancers. The reason the water pumps are interchangeable is that the water pump drive pulley is twice as wide as the other platforms, allowing the belt to ride in 2 different locations. Therefore, you can use either water pump with either platform, although you should check your clearance between your fans and/or radiator. 04 and later model Corvette platforms use a water pump that has the pulley only as wide as the belt.

LS SERIES GEN III WATER PUMP SNOUT DIFFERENCES

The snouts are different on car platforms VS truck/SUV platforms due to the mechanically driven fan. The truck/SUV pumps are extended forward, closer to the radiator VS the car platforms, also the pulley is not as wide as they only use 1 style balancer. The truck/SUV balancer also has provision for the mechanical fan, which screw on the snout. The car applications all use electrical fans therefore you will need to install an electrical fan if doing a swap.



LS SERIES GEN III WATER PUMP OUTLET DIFFERENCES

Car platforms and truck/SUV platforms have the water outlet in a different location. Since the car platforms have a lower intake, the water outlet is parallel to the drive pulley. On truck platforms, the outlet is perpendicular to the drive pulley. Also, all truck/SUV applications use a closed coolant system with a surge tank, so if you use a truck/SUV water pump, be sure your water levels are above the hose,



LS SERIES GEN III WATER PUMP OUTLET DIFFERENCES

97-03 model water pumps have the thermostat as part of the thermostat housing, and is not removable (at least not by hand). This style uses a large O-ring to seal the housing to the pump. 04-present water pumps have a thermostat that has a separate housing, and the thermostat easily slides out. The O-ring on this model is part of the thermostat. Another visual difference is in the casting. The 97-03 housings have an additional tab on it to hold the wiring in place for the A/C compressor. The 04-present models do not have that tab. The housings are not interchangeable between pumps since the diameter of the thermostat cavity is different and the bolt pattern for the housing is different.
***NOTE : GM water pumps sold after 2005 all have the 2-piece design, meaning if you ordered a new GM water pump for your 1998 Corvette, it came with the newer 2-piece thermostat.



LS SERIES GEN III OIL PANS
All LSx oil pans are interchangeable, pending you swap the corresponding windage (deflector) tray and pickup tubes along with the pan. The windage trays and pickup tubes are specific to the oil pan. All oil feeds are on the LH side of the block, if there's an oil filter on the RH side, the oil pan transfer's the oil to the LH side of the block via piping.

New GTO pan kits from $

OTHER LSX DIFFERENCES

There were 2 different style knock sensors offered on Gen III LSx engines : A locking tab design, and a standard style connector (same as TPI and LT1 style knock sensor connectors). The locking tab was on all 1997 LS1 engines, and in most (but not all) 1998 LS1 engines. The only way to know what you have is to pull the intake off. You can use either sensor in either block, as long as you have the matching knock harness.



LSx OIL AND COOLANT PLUG LOCATIONS
The LS series engines have alot of strange looking plugs compared to the normal small block chevrolet engine. Below is a small set of photos outlining the plugs and their locations.

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Truck Engine Vin Decoder

99-06 Trucks, Vans & SUV 4.3L, VIN X or W (8th digit) 6.0L, VIN U (8th digit), (LQ4) Trucks, Vans and Denali 6.0L, VIN N (8th digit) (LQ9) Escalades & SS Silverado 4.8L, VIN V (8th digit) 5.3L, VIN T (8th digit, opt LM7) 5.3L, VIN Z (8th digit, opt L59) 5.3L, VIN B (8th digit, opt L33 05+ HO

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Truck Engine Vin Decoder


99-06 Trucks, Vans & SUV
4.3L, VIN X or W (8th digit)
6.0L, VIN U (8th digit), (LQ4) Trucks, Vans and Denali
6.0L, VIN N (8th digit) (LQ9) Escalades & SS Silverado
4.8L, VIN V (8th digit)
5.3L, VIN T (8th digit, opt LM7)
5.3L, VIN Z (8th digit, opt L59)
5.3L, VIN B (8th digit, opt L33 05+ HO aluminum and iron block with 243/799 heads)

Engine codes for light trucks
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/GM/VIN_Codes

VIN Size Type Fuel

1 6.6 L V8 Diesel
2 6.6 L V8 Diesel
B 5.3 L V8 RPO-L33 Vortec 5.3L 310 Alum Blk HO
D 6.6L V8 Diesel G 8.1L V8 (Vortec 8100)
J 6.2 L V8 Diesel, Non-Turbo
L 2.5 L L4
M 5.0 L V8
N 6.0 L V8 (GENIII LQ9)
P 5.3 L V8
K 5.7 L V8 TBI R 5.7
L V8 Vortec S 4.2 L L6
T 5.3 L V8 (GENIII LM7)
U 6.0 L V8 (GENIII LQ4)
V 4.8 L V8
W 4.3 L V6 CPI X 4.3 L V6
Z 4.3 L V6 EFI

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - What fuel pump should i use for my turbo LSX car?

What fuel pump should i use for my turbo LSX car? lots of threads asking about what fuel pump to get, or how it should be installed for what application etc. Lets start off here and say, if the tank was not EFI it probably wont be easy to just drop in a EFI pump in most cases, i have taken a tall

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What fuel pump should i use for my turbo LSX car?

What fuel pump should i use for my turbo LSX car?

lots of threads asking about what fuel pump to get, or how it should be installed for what application etc.

Lets start off here and say, if the tank was not EFI it probably wont be easy to just drop in a EFI pump in most cases, i have taken a tall tank out of the malibu and i sunk a 44 in it vertically, because the tank was so tall, originaly i just threw the pump into the bottom of the tank on a long fuel hose but it would rattle around the tank haha and i figured it would get beat up and stop working most likely.

so my second time i pulled it out i just hung it vertically with a sock on it from jay racing from the hat.

if the tank was EFI its super easy to install a one or two, 255lph pumps, they are great, we have done 500ish on one (wich is what most people will tell you the limit is) and on two we have done 650ish or more.

also, with the walbro 400 coming out, and seeing they are only 100 dollars on ebay with install kit *sock, wiring, rubber hose etc* that is a hell of a deal, and i have done a little over 600 wheel in a turbo truck with one on its own.

on my turbo 2500 i sunk 2x400s and that was just plain overkill, but i wanted to see how it would do.

but i made 675whp with that truck no problem, but i believe that is twin 255 territory.

now getting back to if it was a stock carbed tank i think its easier to get the tank sumped, just have a welder tack a sump on they can make one or you can buy one, super easy. from there, if you only want to make 400ish hp an inline 255 will do the deed, no problem we are testing out a 60 dollar 044 chinese copy fuel pump on my black and silver car right now, hoping it can easily handle 400-500 hp.

on top of that the single 044 bosch pump for 160-200 from most retailers works great, i have had 2 cars trapping 130-140 with JUST an 044 by itself on pumpgas, the thing you have to watch out for, is that these pumps do not like pre-filters, they have a hard time drawing but they can push like a beast.

i have an 044 on my yellow/gold two tone fairmont right now and it traps 135mph with a factory sumped tank easly.

so i would say if you have a later model notch, a 400 in the tank is great for 600whp or more, i have never really pushed one, i bet they can flow some mean hp.

if you want a ton of power on e85 i think its easier to just go strait for the protuner 650-750, or similar pump, they are 400-500 bux but they are rated for 1500-2000+ on gasoline, they are absolute beasts, what i like is that they are external and can flow enough fuel to fill your swimming pool.

and even though i talk alot of shit on a1000's my friend made 711rwhp with one of them thru a th400... so they can flow some power also if you can get them cheap.

we have also drilled a hole in the gas tank on the ventura and put a fire protection bulk head fitting in the bottom of the tank, and screwed in a 3/8ths pipe elbow and then fed a 044 pump on that car and returned on the stock feed, and made 500whp thru an automatic also...
haha

in summary i would say

if it does not have a basket, from being stock FI, do a sump or something and feed an external
if its injected factory, has a basket, just sink in a 400lph walbro for 100 dollars and make power
if you need more than that, throw that magnafuel shit on there and call it a day.

LINKS FOR THIS ARTICLE!
Ebay Chinese 044 clone for 70~ dollars (we are testing this on the black car, currently idles and drives, no boost yet, but i have 60lb injectors we are gunna push for 400-500)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-V6-CITROEN-CX-PEUGEOT-RENAULT-Porsche-Bosch-0-580-464-044-Fuel-Pump-1984-96-/231108388892?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf22281c&vxp=mtr
this is a "real" 044 bosch pump, i am running one of these bought from amazon on my 600~ hp yellow/gold car that traps 135, by itself off the stock sumped tank.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Universal-Inline-Fuel-Pump/dp/B003WL73OK
protuner 750, magnafuel 4303 part number, this is the big boy 2000hp street drivable fuel pump, this is on the gold car i sold to mike, he is currently at 860whp and counting
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrf-mp-4303
400lph walbro in tank pump. i have used this on many cars now it works awesome.
i had two in my truck, i put one in a 600hp 1500 and we have one in a 600hp 2500 truck, and we have a 400 and a 255 lph in a 2002 firebird making 700+ together.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-F90000262-400LPH-UNIVERSAL-RACING-FUEL-PUMP-IN-TANK-W-INSTALLATION-KIT-/170920168201?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cba2cb09&vxp=mtr

 

[Mook]

Sloppy Mechanics Wiki - Lean Cruise

How-To add Lean Cruise to p01 ecu (haven't tried with p59...may also work??) By Grady Do this at your own risk...please don't blow shit up...and if you do, don't blame sloppy ;)

sites.google.com

Lean Cruise


How-To add Lean Cruise to p01 ecu (haven't tried with p59...may also work??)
By Grady
Do this at your own risk...please don't blow shit up...and if you do, don't blame sloppy

Lean cruise is an option that Australian cars received. It allows the pcm to command a fuel ratio more-lean than stoich. Leaner=less fuel=better mileage...that's the idea anyway. You'll find it's not exactly that simple...but here goes.
Here's a little background...if you don't give a shit, skip to the next paragraph. When it comes to the EPA, they care about the overall impact from your vehicle to the environment as a whole. A leaner fuel mixture burns with more NOx...aka bad gasses. A stoich mixture burns more cleanly. So, they had to choose...do they burn LESS fuel but with more bad gasses per volume fuel (lean cruise)///or burn MORE fuel but with less bad gasses per volume (stoich cruise). They opted for less bad gasses and more gasoline itself. Australia chose the other way...they opted for better mileage and worse NOx. Since the pcm was shared for gm vehicles between the US and australia (holden) the tables are there for the lean cruise feature...but they weren't used in the us vehicles.

DISCLAMER: Don't do this on road-bound vehicles...only do this on offroad, endurance based or mileage contest type vehicles. Now that we have that out of the way, here's how to make lean cruise availible on your US pcm.

First, Note your current system type. Trucks will usually be GMT800...don't forget your current system type. Next change your "system" setting to V...this is an Aussie system type. To breeze over the nitty-gritty, the PCM performs a checksum procedure and it uses the system type to determine what features to allow...setting it to V lets you get past the checksum and into lean cruise mode.
Once you've set the system setting to V, go into the "system options" tab and Copy all of the 1's and 0's from the original system type onto the V line. If you don't copy system options, you will have lots of issues with alternator, torque management, etc etc. Picture below shows your areas needing attention in the "system" tab

After you change your system settings, go to engine->fuel->lean/fuel saving
This is your lean cruise area for fueling. you can set delay parameters...use these to ensure lean cruise is only enabled when you want it to be. Enable/Disable speeds set a range that it can work in...the timers set the delay time for which the vehicle needs to be running and moving before it can enable. These times MAY be different. Enable delay needs to be longer than the moving delay. The enable delay is how long the engine needs to be running before these tables go active. The moving delay is how long you have to be moving before the tables go active. Use at your own discretion.

The "vs RPM vs Cyl Air" table is a SUBTRACTOR. This is how much to subtract from stoich ratio when in lean cruise.
Here's the math when these tables are active.
AFR=Stoich/(1-Subtractor)
Example...pumpgas with subtractor value of .100
AFR=14.7/(1-0.100)=14.7/0.900=16.333
So, in that example your commanded AFR would be 16.33
Larger number in the "vs RPM vs Cyl Air" table means more-lean AFR

The ECT table lets you choose to only allow lean cruise when up to temp. The multiplier acts on the subtractor table.
Leanout rate is how quickly these tables are ramped in/out.

The other factor of making this work is the timing. You can lean it out all you want, but if you're going down the road, it's going to take the same amount of torque to keep the vehicle moving. So, lean cruise should also be used with increased timing. You can do this by just altering your base timing table but the better way to do it is to use a spark adder table. See pic below.
This table is used to add timing as the AFR is leaned out. In the pic below, anything above 1.0 is stock for this particular truck. Anything below 1.0 was changed for lean cruise. As you can see, you can add additional timing for when you're in lean cruise mode. The top Axis is the current AFR multiplier...see the above math...this would be (1-your subtractor)

There ya go...pretty simple.

1. Change system type
2. copy system settings
3. alter fuel tables
4. alter spark tables
5. log log log
6. Repeat starting at step 3

I would recommend for a starting point you don't use the values in the pictures above. I recommend finding a tune file from a vehicle originally capable of lean cruise...and conservatively using its values. Then adjust to your liking from there.

Remember: Do this at your own risk...please don't blow shit up...and if you do, don't blame sloppy

 

[Mook]

Open for business.

 

[Mook]

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd shit. Appears none of the images show up now. Means I'm gonna have to upload all the images across all the posts I made over the weekend. Balls.