Engine Hours Discussion

SpeedSpeak2me

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Aug 27, 2018
23,647
39,230
Real Name
Jim
I’m reading all of you mods and upgrades to the LS and am thinking, “man, I should do some minor stuff to my 5.3 (LY5)!”

Then take into consideration it is 15 years old, bone stock (never been opened), and I don’t need to risk breaking something. The engine and drivetrain have been 100% reliable. Do wish it had the 6L80e instead of the 4L though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sktchy

Bob Kazamakis

I’m the f-ing lizard king
TCG Premium
Oct 24, 2007
85,466
45,586
Denver
Real Name
JK
I’m reading all of you mods and upgrades to the LS and am thinking, “man, I should do some minor stuff to my 5.3 (LY5)!”

Then take into consideration it is 15 years old, bone stock (never been opened), and I don’t need to risk breaking something. The engine and drivetrain have been 100% reliable. Do wish it had the 6L80e instead of the 4L though.
4l60 may be weak but I like the way they perform way more than any 6l80 I’ve owned
 
  • Like
Reactions: sktchy

sktchy

⚠️🫠
TCG Premium
Jul 27, 2021
7,815
12,034
A decent converter is definitely a must when it's time to pull the trans, upgrading the cooler and finding a better alternative to the leaky lines to it is another thing id wanna do at the same time.

I really think that this thing outpulls the 5.3 6l90 combo I had prior with the same gearing but I think alot of it is due to the spicy global timing table it came from gm with, yet the iat pulls quite a bit out of it so on a hot day it's pretty flat. I haven't really bothered to mess with the tune as I need to change the vent valve on the tank and check for intake leaks to clean my fuel trims up and try and knock some of the kr that shouldn't be there down.

But then again I just drive it. Still has stock exhaust and all. It's due for some maintenance soon for sure though.
 

Kizzlebizz

Regular
Oct 26, 2020
494
1,780
I guess I more look at wanting reliability out of this one first and foremost and for it to keep putting up with what I put it through. If I wanna chase power I'll just knock another rod out of the shitbox

That's the reason I went with the stage 2. Trying to keep it reliable, but I really really wish I would have just went stage 3 high lift and then worried about the converter (that I've already gotta do) later.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sktchy

SpeedSpeak2me

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Aug 27, 2018
23,647
39,230
Real Name
Jim
I’ve found my 07 drives much differently than my dad’s 2011. Both have the 5.3 but he’s got the 6spd with 3.08’s, and I have the 4spd with 3.73’s. Unloaded I get a hard shift on the 1-2 upshift, but throw a few hundred pounds in the back and it’s buttery smooth.

Also noticed that our DoD works differently. His will carry more speed in v8 with better mileage than mine will in 4cyl mode. Meaning at 72mph he’s in 8cyl mode getting 20-22mpg while I’m in 8cyl about 17mpg. His stays in 8 longer and gets better mileage.

A lot of people hate the AFM/DoD and get it turned off. I like it, when it works, but it could definitely work better.

I did a backroads trip holding 55-60 and let the DoD go to work. Averaged 22mpg on two full tanks.
 

Mr Baytchos

TCG Elite Member
Jul 8, 2007
9,248
4,729
Cortland, IL
Real Name
Anthony
?‍♂️

20220705_204010.jpg
 

sktchy

⚠️🫠
TCG Premium
Jul 27, 2021
7,815
12,034
I would bet there's probably some tweaks in that whole mess of dod stuff that could probably help the cause but it's not somethin ive really ever messed around with or tried comparing between different vehicles to even know where to begin without some trial and error. I think most people that turn it off do so to attempt to avoid the lifters collapsing and I've seen it take care of actuator oil consumption with my own eyes on more than one occasion. Or they just hate the slight delay in the pedal coming out of it or the weird sound it makes when they cut the muffler off.

The 3.08s getting better fuel mileage makes alot of sense though if it sits in a little sweeter spot in the rpm band for cruising. I'm over here gettin maybe 15 or 16 unloaded and 10 to 11 with the trailer on regardless of it's got 87 or e85 in it. Should probably put an actual flex sensor in it once I sort out the rich fuel trims.

And then there's brakes. 4 wheel disc's are great but it's time for pads and one of the calipers is a little squeaky so I'm sure the slides are in fantastic shape lol
 

SpeedSpeak2me

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Aug 27, 2018
23,647
39,230
Real Name
Jim
I would bet there's probably some tweaks in that whole mess of dod stuff that could probably help the cause but it's not somethin ive really ever messed around with or tried comparing between different vehicles to even know where to begin without some trial and error.

The 3.08s getting better fuel mileage makes alot of sense though if it sits in a little sweeter spot in the rpm band for cruising. I'm over here gettin maybe 15 or 16 unloaded and 10 to 11 with the trailer on regardless of it's got 87 or e85 in it. Should probably put an actual flex sensor in it once I sort out the rich fuel trims.

And then there's brakes. 4 wheel disc's are great but it's time for pads and one of the calipers is a little squeaky so I'm sure the slides are in fantastic shape lol
I had the truck dyno tuned back in 2010, the only mod being 89 octane instead of 87 to get the knock retard down. It really cleaned up the mapping and fuel economy/performance noticeably improved. The tuning of the DoD was still a mystery back then, and the tuner tried messing with it to get it to work better. Eventually I was able to hold 72mph and stay in 4cyl mode which netted me about 20mpg. However the transition from 8-4 and 4-8 was really pronounced and uncomfortable. The tuner "claimed" he rolled back the changes and left the rest of the tuning in place, but I'm 99% sure he just flashed everything back to stock. He then ghosted me. For a "professional tuner and engine builder" that really pissed me off.

GM should have figured a way for the driver to set the aggressiveness of the DoD while driving. There is no reason that while cruising at 68mph that 1-2% throttle input with minimal engine load should put it back into v8 mode. Even with the mileage and age of the truck I'd like to get the DoD working better, if at all possible. I know the oil consumption increases the more the DoD engages, but it has never been an oil burner, so not worried about it.

As for the gearing and "sweet spot", at 70mph I'm right at 2000rpm (stock tire size of 265/65R18). My dad is about 1800rpm at the same speed (also stock sized tires).

I really do like the truck and intend on keeping it as long as possible.

Oh, and I don't have the towing package, so front disc/rear drums. I just had the rears replaced last week. Was on the factory shoes and drums, with the drums having been turned once, about 130k miles. I was pretty sure the shoes and drums would be almost nonexistent after nearly 200k miles. When the mechanic pulled the drums a shit ton of dust/rust fell out, and you could see some scoring on the insides, but tons of metal left. The shoes, the shoes looked to still be about 90% material left. I was flabbergasted.

When was the last time someone used flabbergasted?


Right rear rear-facing shoe (they all had equal amounts of material on them):
31424538-3767-4755-9A96-52872AB6F7B2_1_105_c.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: sktchy

sktchy

⚠️🫠
TCG Premium
Jul 27, 2021
7,815
12,034
And that's why I'm not too entirely fond of the tuning world. Get em in get paid and get em back out I guess. Any time I start messing with one of mine I never quit and will end up with hours on hours in it to try and get it just where I want it or I'll be in bed and I'm like hey what if I do it that way instead of this way and see what it does ?

I've seen the rear drums go both ways with no rhyme or reason. Completely shelled at 70k or like yours and just fine at 150. Suppose that's most dependent on how heavy the foot in the pedal is and whether its start stop driving or long trips. With the stuff I see daily at work it's so wild to me how fast things go to hell on city driven stuff compared to the highway cruisers but then again all those parts are doin their thing alot more often when that's the case.
 

SpeedSpeak2me

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Aug 27, 2018
23,647
39,230
Real Name
Jim
And that's why I'm not too entirely fond of the tuning world. Get em in get paid and get em back out I guess. Any time I start messing with one of mine I never quit and will end up with hours on hours in it to try and get it just where I want it or I'll be in bed and I'm like hey what if I do it that way instead of this way and see what it does ?

I've seen the rear drums go both ways with no rhyme or reason. Completely shelled at 70k or like yours and just fine at 150. Suppose that's most dependent on how heavy the foot in the pedal is and whether its start stop driving or long trips. With the stuff I see daily at work it's so wild to me how fast things go to hell on city driven stuff compared to the highway cruisers but then again all those parts are doin their thing alot more often when that's the case.
Yeah, I was really shocked. The mechanic (who is also a co-owner of the shop) said that he regularly sees 500k on factory GMT drums. Front pads/rotors are now matched PowerStop Z17's. The OEM pads and rotors weren't very good. The last set of OEM's I had, the [front] right rotor actually started to de-laminate on the inboard side. What junk. I've had good success with the PowerStop's on other vehicles, and didn't need the heavy duty setup for hauling/towing, since I don't regularly haul/tow heavy stuffs. They dusted really bad at first, which was expected. It got new reman'd calipers up front since the OEM's were basically a block of rust.

The other thing he was surprised at was the leaf spring rear shackles. He asked if I had to replace them yet. Nope, they're original. When he looked at them he was surprised at how solid they were (just surface rust). Told me that they usually go, and when they rust through there is so much tension on the leafs that they punch a hole through the bottom of the bed. I had never heard of that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sktchy

sktchy

⚠️🫠
TCG Premium
Jul 27, 2021
7,815
12,034
I've had good luck with the powerstop pads I don't think you'll have any issue at all. I've never heard of the spring shackles going through the bed but it's pretty rare to find one without some weight reduction in the wheel wells anymore lol. The suvs have coils in the rear so you gotta make sure to get some weight on the tongue of the trailer and squat it a bit or it gets a little squirrely. Empty its a night and day difference in ride when compared to the trucks though. I really always thought I'd hate driving one until actually owning it and realizing you can do damn near anything a half ton pickup will while keeping the kids happy with more room and a DVD player ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: SpeedSpeak2me
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info