• đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.

Eaton Swap COT woes finally Solved!!!!

huh?!

Member
Jan 18, 2012
67
0
Did you degree the cams?

in the process....kinda ran into a snag (thought I had all the tools but apparently not LOL) and then a family tragedy occurred that took all my desire for anything (including my love/obsession for cars) away.

I believe he is working on it.

yes sir! thank you so much for your help thus far....and you may be getting another PM soon LOL!!!!!
 

RocsMerc

New member
Jun 22, 2012
3
0


Ignore the green wire, I was using it to test some engine grounds and it will be removed.

I'm reasonably happy with this, I still have another trick up my sleeve depending on how I want to plumb this. I'm definitely happy with the fit & finish of the kit. I had to dress one of the mounting tabs with a file to make it fit though but that's no big whoop.

I'm going to be using this kit for my Trilogy setup since I don't have the COT from Trilogy and when I called them up for the part, they wanted $1000 for it. I am also doing the rear head cooling mod the way Surge did as Zack advised in the first post, but there's one thing I'm just not understanding. With it plumed the way it is in this picture, how does the thermostat heat up to make it open? If the thermostat is closed, then there is no flow in the hoses coming off the heads into the stat housing. If there is no flow, than how does it get hot enough to open? :confused:
 
Last edited:

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
I'm going to be using this kit for my Trilogy setup since I don't have the COT from Trilogy and when I called them up for the part, they wanted $1000 for it. I am also doing the rear head cooling mod the way Surge did as Zack advised in the first post, but there's one thing I'm just not understanding. With it plumed the way it is in this picture, how does the thermostat heat up to make it open? If the thermostat is closed, then there is no flow in the hoses coming off the heads into the stat housing. If there is no flow, than how does it get hot enough to open? :confused:

If you place a thermostat in a pan of water on the stove, it opens, yet there is no flow.

LOL :roflpicard:
 

massacre

Regular
May 25, 2011
161
2
I'm going to be using this kit for my Trilogy setup since I don't have the COT from Trilogy and when I called them up for the part, they wanted $1000 for it. I am also doing the rear head cooling mod the way Surge did as Zack advised in the first post, but there's one thing I'm just not understanding. With it plumed the way it is in this picture, how does the thermostat heat up to make it open? If the thermostat is closed, then there is no flow in the hoses coming off the heads into the stat housing. If there is no flow, than how does it get hot enough to open? :confused:

Who are you REALLY?

Look at the kit more closely and then you'll understand.
The stock 4v cooling system has a remote thermostat housing with a bypass thermostat located after the radiator.

This kit changes all that.
Everything about it.

Zack I LMAO at your answer....so damn true!
 

RocsMerc

New member
Jun 22, 2012
3
0
Forgive me if I'm completely misunderstanding this. From my understanding of the stock system, the thermostat opens when the water flowing through the bypass gets hot. If the water in the lines is stationary, then why would it be hot? How does the hot water get from the heads to the thermostat to open it? Wouldn't there need to be flow to get the heat from the engine into the remote housing? I would think that it would be just standing cold water otherwise. I'm imagining it like the hot water in your sink. When the sink is off the water in the hot water pipe is cold until the hot water can flow up from the heat source. I'm not doubting that the setup works as pictured because it obviously worked out for you. I just would like to know where I'm not understanding it.
 

massacre

Regular
May 25, 2011
161
2
If the water in the lines is stationary, then why would it be hot?

The engine generates heat, which is transferred to the coolant and the water pump moves the coolant. The cooling system is under pressure( ~15psi).

This kit is nothing more complicated than a flathead V-8, or a pushrod V8. Hell, look at the 2v modulars, they have a traditional thermostat location and they work just fine.
This kit takes the needlessly complicated modular 4v remote bypass idea and gets rid of all of that, simplifying it so that it works like a traditional cooling system.
T-stat before radiator, no remote bypass garbage after the radiator.

It is nothing like a sink in your house
 

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
I ask because the picture shows a fitting for head cooling mod.Does that mean you have to buy a head cooling mod seperatly???

No you don't have to, Kelly made provisions for a cooling mod, you could just plug the cooling mod port. It's only 3/8" NPT. Hardly enough for adequate cooling mod return

Why not install a cooling mod? Your adding a lot of heat with forced induction. Its a matter of time before you cook the rear cylinders. (IMO)
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info