📸 Photography DSLR and Mirrorless Camera Chat

Gav'sPurpleZ

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No problem, would be glad to help. I have three camera bodies (Nikon DSLR) and like eight or nine lenses. Plus external flash (master and slave), wired and wireless remotes, tripods, filters, etc.

I do most of my shots using "A" and continuous shutter. The "A" allows me to adjust aperture size for depth of field and let the camera figure out the shutter speed, but keep an eye on it. The Continuous mode is to get sharper images. Reason being, I don't care how stable your arms/hands are, if you're holding the camera and you push the shutter release the camera is going to move slightly. No avoiding it. With Continuous mode I'll snap 2 or 3 shots and delete the first one without even reviewing it. The amount the camera is going to move at 8fps on the 2nd and 3rd shot is a whole lot less than the first shot.

Also, the more "open" the f/stop (3.5 vs 10) the sharper the images will be, but the depth of field will be shallower, especially for close up images. If you're shooting at 42mm with f/3.5 and the subject is more than like 15' away everything behind the subject will pretty much be in focus. You shoot f/3.5 about 5' from the subject and most of the background will be blurry. However, step it down to like f/10 from 5' and the background will come into focus as well. If you're at 14mm, unless you're right on top of the subject everything will be in focus, since it's such a wide field of view.

I think half of the people reading this thread just fell asleep, LOL.

I will read this on my laptop and have the camera next to me.

Is it the same general idea for video ?
I've watched alot of introduction and overview videos.. then moved to settings etc
It's information overload crammed into 10-20 mins and I feel like I don't grasp the concept any better once the video is over
 

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I will read this on my laptop and have the camera next to me.

Is it the same general idea for video ?
I've watched alot of introduction and overview videos.. then moved to settings etc
It's information overload crammed into 10-20 mins and I feel like I don't grasp the concept any better once the video is over
Practice and use in person. Just reading it is hard to grasp but when you fuck with the settings and see the results between changes, it clicks much faster.

I do astrophotography every now and then and just reading about different settings was hard to grasp it, but it gives a good starting point. I really understood what was happening with the settings I was changing once I got the camera and started taking pictures and looking at the results.

The only thing I haven't really started learning is post-processing. I am POSITIVE my pictures can look way better with good post processing, but since I haven't learned it yet, I just try to get the best RAW picture I can get with just changing camera settings. Then eventually when I learn post-processing, I'll at least have decent photos to start with which should lead to less processing needed too.
 
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SpeedSpeak2me

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I will read this on my laptop and have the camera next to me.

Is it the same general idea for video ?
I've watched alot of introduction and overview videos.. then moved to settings etc
It's information overload crammed into 10-20 mins and I feel like I don't grasp the concept any better once the video is over
Surprisingly I haven't done much video as it wasn't my primary reason for getting the cameras. My newest one D7500 does 4k and I think I used it once. I actually left it set to Auto and the camera decide everything. Like Lord Tin Foilhat tinfoilhat said, play with it and practice. See what changing one thing does and how it affects the output.

I'd probably go to using P (Program) mode next so you can control ISO and also White Balance (WB) depending on what the lighting conditions are. I typically don't rely on the camera to make the right decision on WB, since I have yet to see one actually be really accurate. I noticed that a lot of digital cameras tend to lean towards blueish cast when set to Auto. My dad's Sony mirrorless (A6000, A6400) does okay with WB, but could be better. When I set it myself I aim for between 5000K and 5800K. Daylight is 5000K but sometimes I find that it's still off, so I'll go up and do test shots, then compare the LCD to what is in front of me. The later it gets in the evening/night the higher I'll set the WB. For some of my better sunset photos I've gone as high as between 9000K-10000K.

For photos, if you shoot RAW then those settings don't apply except for the JPG preview. RAW is made to be adjusted in post to give you the extra control. I like to do as much as I can in-camera rather than with a computer. Makes you more proficient in getting the camera set up for the conditions you're in and be able to get shots off quickly. Keep in mind I've taken over 50,000 clicks, so I've got the experience to know how I should set the camera to get the shot I'm looking for, and my two main cameras are really similar so I can switch back and forth and not have to relearn the controls.

One thing you can try to look for, but I wasn't too successful is a professional photographer's guide to the camera. I've been shooting with DSLR's for about six years so I know most of the features. I was bored and picked up one of the more popular and thorough guide books to see if there were some things I didn't know about:


I did pick up a few things and it goes into details as to why certain setting behave certain ways. That guide is for the D7200, and I did not get one for the D7500 since they are very similar cameras.

Depending on what I do this weekend I'll use the D7500 and play around with the video and 4K to see how it reacts. See if anything stands out. However, the way the Nikon and Panasonic work will be pretty different.

I've looked at getting a mirrorless quite a few times, but have run into one of a few things. First, battery life on mirrorless is poor. Having to power the EVF (Electronic View Finder) and/or the rear LCD screen sucks the life out of the battery. The EVF has a much higher resolution so it consumes the battery faster. Second is megapixels. I'm a pixel-peeper so I like to make sure I can capture as much detail as I can with the least amount of lenses to carry. With my DX (1.3x cropped sensor) I usually carry an 18-300mm lens so I can get ultra-wide and zoom. However all the elements in the lens means it won't be as sharp as a prime lens (fixed power). My D7200 is 24MP and the D7500 is 20MP (dropped for better low light and faster shooting). I'd like to have an FX (full frame) camera, like 36+ MP, with maybe a 24-70mm lens. It'd give me the wide angle and some zoom. However I could then crop the photos and keep the details. I could basically use one lens all day long instead of carrying multiple ones.

Like you mentioned having a manual focus option on the lens does help with audible noise when taking video. The older silent wave lenses would make noise during autofocus, and they solved that with both pulse-wave and stepper motor lenses. Part of the reason I didn't really do any video was the noise picked up if I attempted to refocus during the shoot. The new AF-P (pulse-wave) lenses that came with the D7500 takes care of that. They're pretty much silent and really quick to focus.

My friend is the videographer for Morraine Valley Community College and was a die-hard DSLR shooter for years. He started using a Nikon Z6 (mirrorless) at work for video and hasn't looked back. So they definitely have their advantages.

If you haven't already, might want to look into get a tripod with a gimball head for shooting video. So any panning/tilting will be butter smooth.

Just remember, play and practice. If you have to, do like the old days where film photographers would carry a note pad and write down the settings used for each frame, so they could go back and compare to see which settings gave them the best results, so they could repeat them. I did that when learning with my older D3300 as it was my foray into DSLRs.

The photo I submitted for the August ROTM was taken with my old D3300 (24MP) and the 18-55mm f/3.5 lens that it came with. The lens cost like $99, so it is nothing special. I set the ISO, WB, and f/stop. This is straight from the camera, nothing done in post. Could I clean it up a bit or have shot it in RAW then adjusted it to my liking? Yeah, but I just wanted a quick shot knowing I could submit it and be happy. I was about 20' from the bike, with it set to 18mm, as wide as the lens would go. If you zoom in, at least directly from my computer, there is enough detail that you can actually see me in the reflection of the engine casing. I was actively trying to avoid being in the reflection, and it still picked up me up.

DSC_8611.jpg
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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Surprisingly I haven't done much video as it wasn't my primary reason for getting the cameras. My newest one D7500 does 4k and I think I used it once. I actually left it set to Auto and the camera decide everything. Like Lord Tin Foilhat tinfoilhat said, play with it and practice. See what changing one thing does and how it affects the output.

I'd probably go to using P (Program) mode next so you can control ISO and also White Balance (WB) depending on what the lighting conditions are. I typically don't rely on the camera to make the right decision on WB, since I have yet to see one actually be really accurate. I noticed that a lot of digital cameras tend to lean towards blueish cast when set to Auto. My dad's Sony mirrorless (A6000, A6400) does okay with WB, but could be better. When I set it myself I aim for between 5000K and 5800K. Daylight is 5000K but sometimes I find that it's still off, so I'll go up and do test shots, then compare the LCD to what is in front of me. The later it gets in the evening/night the higher I'll set the WB. For some of my better sunset photos I've gone as high as between 9000K-10000K.

For photos, if you shoot RAW then those settings don't apply except for the JPG preview. RAW is made to be adjusted in post to give you the extra control. I like to do as much as I can in-camera rather than with a computer. Makes you more proficient in getting the camera set up for the conditions you're in and be able to get shots off quickly. Keep in mind I've taken over 50,000 clicks, so I've got the experience to know how I should set the camera to get the shot I'm looking for, and my two main cameras are really similar so I can switch back and forth and not have to relearn the controls.

One thing you can try to look for, but I wasn't too successful is a professional photographer's guide to the camera. I've been shooting with DSLR's for about six years so I know most of the features. I was bored and picked up one of the more popular and thorough guide books to see if there were some things I didn't know about:


I did pick up a few things and it goes into details as to why certain setting behave certain ways. That guide is for the D7200, and I did not get one for the D7500 since they are very similar cameras.

Depending on what I do this weekend I'll use the D7500 and play around with the video and 4K to see how it reacts. See if anything stands out. However, the way the Nikon and Panasonic work will be pretty different.

I've looked at getting a mirrorless quite a few times, but have run into one of a few things. First, battery life on mirrorless is poor. Having to power the EVF (Electronic View Finder) and/or the rear LCD screen sucks the life out of the battery. The EVF has a much higher resolution so it consumes the battery faster. Second is megapixels. I'm a pixel-peeper so I like to make sure I can capture as much detail as I can with the least amount of lenses to carry. With my DX (1.3x cropped sensor) I usually carry an 18-300mm lens so I can get ultra-wide and zoom. However all the elements in the lens means it won't be as sharp as a prime lens (fixed power). My D7200 is 24MP and the D7500 is 20MP (dropped for better low light and faster shooting). I'd like to have an FX (full frame) camera, like 36+ MP, with maybe a 24-70mm lens. It'd give me the wide angle and some zoom. However I could then crop the photos and keep the details. I could basically use one lens all day long instead of carrying multiple ones.

Like you mentioned having a manual focus option on the lens does help with audible noise when taking video. The older silent wave lenses would make noise during autofocus, and they solved that with both pulse-wave and stepper motor lenses. Part of the reason I didn't really do any video was the noise picked up if I attempted to refocus during the shoot. The new AF-P (pulse-wave) lenses that came with the D7500 takes care of that. They're pretty much silent and really quick to focus.

My friend is the videographer for Morraine Valley Community College and was a die-hard DSLR shooter for years. He started using a Nikon Z6 (mirrorless) at work for video and hasn't looked back. So they definitely have their advantages.

If you haven't already, might want to look into get a tripod with a gimball head for shooting video. So any panning/tilting will be butter smooth.

Just remember, play and practice. If you have to, do like the old days where film photographers would carry a note pad and write down the settings used for each frame, so they could go back and compare to see which settings gave them the best results, so they could repeat them. I did that when learning with my older D3300 as it was my foray into DSLRs.

The photo I submitted for the August ROTM was taken with my old D3300 (24MP) and the 18-55mm f/3.5 lens that it came with. The lens cost like $99, so it is nothing special. I set the ISO, WB, and f/stop. This is straight from the camera, nothing done in post. Could I clean it up a bit or have shot it in RAW then adjusted it to my liking? Yeah, but I just wanted a quick shot knowing I could submit it and be happy. I was about 20' from the bike, with it set to 18mm, as wide as the lens would go. If you zoom in, at least directly from my computer, there is enough detail that you can actually see me in the reflection of the engine casing. I was actively trying to avoid being in the reflection, and it still picked up me up.

DSC_8611.jpg
I always shoot in RAW + jpg. Storage is cheap and I like being able to just upload the jpeg if it looks good but have the RAW file just in case
 
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SpeedSpeak2me

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Ya know, my dad does that. I just don't take some/most of my photos serious enough to keep both the RAW and JPG. There are times I will capture RAW because it might be a once in a lifetime thing. The NEOWISE comet photos I took were in both RAW and JPG. The JPGs were good enough so I just used them. Especially when you're uploading them to social media or a photo sharing site. They're getting compressed so you're just blowing out the detail that is captured.

What I like about my D7200 is that it has dual card slots. So I can shoot RAW to one slot and JPG to the other. Or use the second as overflow, backup, or video to 1 and photos to 2. The D7500 is single card, in an effort to make it more weather resistant. I agree, with SDXC cards being cheap you could buy a couple 64GB ones and when one fills up just file it and pop in a new one. Where it gets expensive is the new XQD cards. They're extremely fast and really expensive. Decent 64GB cards are $130, compared to a Pro SDXC for $20.
 

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Ya know, my dad does that. I just don't take some/most of my photos serious enough to keep both the RAW and JPG. There are times I will capture RAW because it might be a once in a lifetime thing. The NEOWISE comet photos I took were in both RAW and JPG. The JPGs were good enough so I just used them. Especially when you're uploading them to social media or a photo sharing site. They're getting compressed so you're just blowing out the detail that is captured.

What I like about my D7200 is that it has dual card slots. So I can shoot RAW to one slot and JPG to the other. Or use the second as overflow, backup, or video to 1 and photos to 2. The D7500 is single card, in an effort to make it more weather resistant. I agree, with SDXC cards being cheap you could buy a couple 64GB ones and when one fills up just file it and pop in a new one. Where it gets expensive is the new XQD cards. They're extremely fast and really expensive. Decent 64GB cards are $130, compared to a Pro SDXC for $20.
Damn. Dual SD slot would be tits.

I haven't even heard of XQD...gonna have to do some reading.
 

SpeedSpeak2me

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To add, in the vein of not taking my photos too seriously, I know that 99% of my photos are for me, no one else is going to really care about them, or how accurate they are. So the JPGs for me are fine. There are a few times in which I wish I had taken RAW because the JPG wasn't as good as I would have liked and didn't have much wiggle room in Photoshop. But getting more experienced those occurrences are pretty rare these days. If I'm just tooling around on the bike, or shooting the birds/chipmunks/squirrels in the back yard, hiking, etc, JPG is more than good enough. If I go on vacation I'll usually set it to RAW + JPG and let the shutter fly (y)

The Nikon Z6 and Z7 use XQD, which was a deterrent for me. The new Z5 went back to supporting SDXC, but there are some things about it I don't like. Like the maximum FPS is 4.5. Really? My six year old D7200 shoots 6fps. The Z6 shoots 12fps JPG and 9fps RAW.

Even though all my gear is Nikon if I went with a mirrorless I'd likely get a Sony Alpha series, like the A7 III or A7R III. The A7R II is down to $1400, but it's five years old and behind the times. It is 45MP though :)

Here the XQD. Look at the stupid speeds it supports (440/400 MB/s read/write), compared to the Sandisk Extreme Pro SDXC at 300 MB/s, which it rarely achieves.

The other benefit to the dual slots if you use slot 2 to backup slot 1. Not every SDXC card is infallible. They fail, more often than you think. So having duplicates on the second card is a huge deal.
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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I have watched this video several times:



the videos I record are in manual mode so that I can control the focus and the zoom. As for picture taking, I haven't tried much.
I know I would not shoot in raw because I have ZERO experience in post edit and would get frustrated pretty quick.

I have thought about changing settings and making notes just to help myself learn what settings effect which aspects of the picture/image.
 

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.

I have thought about changing settings and making notes just to help myself learn what settings effect which aspects of the picture/image.
Just do this! This is the best way. Also do it while you are recording what you plan on shooting. So if you are planning on shooting car races... practice your settings during car races that you don't care about. This way you have the settings you want for YOUR situation. Every camera, lens and environment change will change the camera settings for the situation. Even cloud cover vs no clouds will make a huge difference in what settings you choose. So the best way is to do it and write down what works (or memorize it). Eventually you get a good idea of what a good setting is to start with for the scene and tweak from there.
 

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I have a tripod.
I'm not looking to film racing
I want to get decent with the kit Lens before buying another one. Need to know what I'm doing first :rofl:
that was an example.

if you want to film birds, practice changing picture settings while filming birds.

if you want to film night sky, practice at night.

the only way to know what you are doing is to do it. with film, you should see the changes instantly on the LCD.
 

SpeedSpeak2me

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I have a tripod.
I'm not looking to film racing
I want to get decent with the kit Lens before buying another one. Need to know what I'm doing first :rofl:
What we can do, if you like, is meet up and I’ll bring one of the cameras and a few lenses. We can go through the settings together and take photos of the same thing, so you can get an idea of what does what. I’ll bring lenses that are similar to the one you have to try to keep it as similar as possible.
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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so is there a setting that allows you to see the adjustments you are making on the display ?

When in video mode, I can make adjustments and see how they affect the image. But when I made adjustments and took a picture, only the image on the slideshow could be seen as way too dark.
Yes. There is a button that should look like a mini camera with a square in it. That will change the output from the eye lens to the LCD so you can see the changes without taking a picture.

Screenshot_20200831-132611_1.png
 
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SpeedSpeak2me

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It would be if you use a Live view for taking the photo, so the rear screen instead of the EVF (Electronic View Finder). At least that's how my Nikons work for some/most settings. For something like manual Aperture adjustment I have a function button I can press to preview to image for depth of field. But if I do something like change white balance it'll reflect in real-time on the rear display.

Once I've taken the photo and am looking at it in review mode I can use the up/down arrow buttons to show all kinds of information, like histogram, settings, etc.
 

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This is the book I used to teach myself manual mode.

I have 2 Canon 7d MKII's for my side hustle and a backup Canon 7d and just got the wife a Sony A72 which I have been playing around a bit with as my first foray into mirrorless. It is crazy how small and light it is and how well it does even with it's cheap kit lense.
 
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SpeedSpeak2me

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So, quick revival of this thread. Did some time-lapse photo-to-video with my D7500 yesterday. Then thought about the number of shutter clicks it was doing and brought out my older D7200 to take the abuse, lol.

Both are at 4fpm (every 15 seconds). First one is about an hour compressed to 10 seconds. Second is four hours compressed to about 40 seconds.

Have one going right now that is 2fpm (every 30 seconds) going for four hours. Need to find an external power source if I want to go more than 4-5 hours as I am the capacity of the battery (EN-EL15A), even with the LCD display disabled for image review (to save battery).



 
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