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🔧 Technical Don't buy a Grand National. It will never run right.

v6buicks

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pop the rail off and look at the tops of the injectors.

i had some white lookin goo in there from bad gas that was making my LS run odd.
That is part of my plan. Without sending them out for a flush, is there a way I can clean them myself temporarily? I'm hoping to just pick as much out as I can (assuming they're clogged up) manually and douche em with brake cleaner.
 

v6buicks

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I'm not going to repeat the entire post I just made in my build thread, but the wideband is almost ready to go. I just need to weld the bung and reinstall the downpipe then we'll be in business.

I did not get around to pulling the injectors. I'm going to cheat a little if I find debris because I'd rather send them out for a real cleaning than go through all this work for a half assed job. I have another set of 80s I can toss in, but they have EV6 connectors. Adapters should be in tomorrow.
 

v6buicks

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Just took my first test drive with the wideband and modified downpipe elbow. First off, boost is is a very reliable and responsive 10 psi which is great becasue the modification seems to have worked. It also sucks and makes no sense becasue that is less than I should get if I stuck the hose from the compressor directly to my actuator. :angrys00ls: wtf

Second of all the wideband was a great choice. This car is not running lean at all. It sits at the 11s when I'm WOT, and it's not falling on its face. If I stay in the throttle for more than a few seconds though the engine will sound like it's bogging, and the wideband dives down to the 8s. I'm so confused.

First, I'm going to reset the ECM and leave the chip at it's base settings. Then I'm going to try logging this and hopefully catch wideband data. I think I have it set up. If I don't think of anything else to try, I might remove the manual boost controller and put the solenoid and restrictor back in.
 

SpeedSpeak2me

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I just want to say, no matter how much the car frustrates you, I'll never stop being jealous and in awe that you have a Grand National. Therefore, should you need any assistance making WOT hits for testing, or a sounding board, I'll be glad to offer my strictly novice and uneducated tuning and listening services*.


*whenever I am remotely close to your location, which isn't often.
 
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Ti28

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Just took my first test drive with the wideband and modified downpipe elbow. First off, boost is is a very reliable and responsive 10 psi which is great becasue the modification seems to have worked. It also sucks and makes no sense becasue that is less than I should get if I stuck the hose from the compressor directly to my actuator. :angrys00ls: wtf

Second of all the wideband was a great choice. This car is not running lean at all. It sits at the 11s when I'm WOT, and it's not falling on its face. If I stay in the throttle for more than a few seconds though the engine will sound like it's bogging, and the wideband dives down to the 8s. I'm so confused.

First, I'm going to reset the ECM and leave the chip at it's base settings. Then I'm going to try logging this and hopefully catch wideband data. I think I have it set up. If I don't think of anything else to try, I might remove the manual boost controller and put the solenoid and restrictor back in.

Can you change the gauge to Lambada? I think it's reading stoich for gas. Things can tend to get fucky. . You want 781-.785 mil-volts. Gauges tend to add a correction factor so you see the correct reading.
 
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v6buicks

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This very well could be the issue for everything except the low boost. I'm still completely stumped on that.

Looks like the MAF is indeed taking a shit. It's maxxing out then bliping all over the place when I hold it wide open. Although it cruises just fine, I worry that I'll make it halfway to KY tomorrow and the MAF decides that it won't do anything anymore. This dinosaur probably doesn't have any sort of limp mode, but I'm going to test that out too.
 

Jon01

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That's a hard question to answer becasue I'm just eyballing two guages while mashing the pedal and trying not to crash. From what I can tell. It's rising about as evenly as boost. Then again, boost isn't rising very much right now. That's a whole other issue I'm sorting separately, but at 16psi of boost I know I've seen the fuel pressure gauge over 50psi. Base pressure is 43psi with the reference hose removed.

I keep forgetting that you had one. Idk about Delco O2 sensors. Delco isn't worth dick to me if the car I'm shopping for is more than 10 years old. I do still have the original one I can throw back in. It's possible that there was nothing actually wrong with it.

What's your take on the leak situation? Did you have a wideband in yours? I'm about to put a small leak in the downpipe. If I can't put a sensor after the wastegate hole I think I'm screwed.
If FP is rising with boost then that function is working.

Tbh I'm not familiar with the leak that seems to be "the way" so I can't help there sorry.

I did not have a wb on mine, when I was building it in 2002-6 they weren't near as available as they are now.

Could you be pegging the stock MAF's flow? Either way, are MAF translators still a thing?
 

v6buicks

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If FP is rising with boost then that function is working.

Tbh I'm not familiar with the leak that seems to be "the way" so I can't help there sorry.

I did not have a wb on mine, when I was building it in 2002-6 they weren't near as available as they are now.

Could you be pegging the stock MAF's flow? Either way, are MAF translators still a thing?
My buddy was running 11s with his stock MAF so I know mine isn't supposed to max out. Mine is just dying.

MAF translators are still a thing. I'm leaning toward that route, but even the LT1 MAFs are getting old. Doing away with all this old shit and getting a PNP ECU that will run speed density sounds great. It's just expensive and a lot more than I want to spend on cars right now.
 

v6buicks

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People seemed more excited about me installing a wideband that told us nothing that we didn't already know than finding out the actual problem.
Evan Hafer Reaction GIF by Black Rifle Coffee Company
 

Jon01

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So the wideband tells us you're not leaning out, that eliminates the fuel system and one potential source of KR.
The stock maf is goofy and now you know it as a result of the wideband giving you good solid feedback.
I'd really think about putting a translator and ls maf on it.
Then you're future proof.
 
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v6buicks

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So the wideband tells us you're not leaning out, that eliminates the fuel system and one potential source of KR.
The stock maf is goofy and now you know it as a result of the wideband giving you good solid feedback.
I'd really think about putting a translator and ls maf on it.
Then you're future proof.
It was more or less a joke, but I knew it was lean a year ago based off narrowband. PowerLogger told me the MAF was bad. The wideband just confirmed that my narrowband wasn't lying.

Translator and MAF are probably the realistic next step. I'm very interested in the ECU GN though. That should be even more future proof. Then I could just gut the stock MAF so that everything looks pretty on speed density. No more chips or or ancient computers either. $2k is pretty hefty vs a $500 translator and MAF though. We'll see. It might all depend on what I find for sale here in Bowling Green.
 
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daturbosix

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It was more or less a joke, but I knew it was lean a year ago based off narrowband. PowerLogger told me the MAF was bad. The wideband just confirmed that my narrowband wasn't lying.

Translator and MAF are probably the realistic next step. I'm very interested in the ECU GN though. That should be even more future proof. Then I could just gut the stock MAF so that everything looks pretty on speed density. No more chips or or ancient computers either. $2k is pretty hefty vs a $500 translator and MAF though. We'll see. It might all depend on what I find for sale here in Bowling Green.
there is always holley terminator... youd have to make a 24x LS harness work on it thought. then you can run LS-truck coils and get rid of that pesky ignition module too.
 
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