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I'm not a big fan of engine oil testing like this. I worked in an oil testing lab for a few years and I don't bother with it. If results are about average, great. If not, how far off is too far? I wouldn't trust their options. Thier goal is to get you to keep testing, not offer real advice about your motor. (Many of those 'wear' metals are actually in fresh, unused oil and I suspect filter media has a big effect as well.)
I would love to be able to see coolant before it did damage.I'm not a big fan of engine oil testing like this. I worked in an oil testing lab for a few years and I don't bother with it. If results are about average, great. If not, how far off is too far? I wouldn't trust their options. Thier goal is to get you to keep testing, not offer real advice about your motor. (Many of those 'wear' metals are actually in fresh, unused oil and I suspect filter media has a big effect as well.)
You would really need to test way more often than once an oil change and then you would need similar motorS to compare to.
Fuel, coolant, soot and water contamination are what you need to worry about.
1. Make sure there is oil in the engine (check it between changes)
2. Change it periodically (I change it when the dash says percent life is about 25%)
3. I used to say conventional is good enough - but with the timing chain 'stretch' in these motors from microscopic wear, I use synthetic. (Castrol Edge is cheap at Walmart in the 5 quart jugs).
I hope this helps.
I'm not a big fan of engine oil testing like this. I worked in an oil testing lab for a few years and I don't bother with it. If results are about average, great. If not, how far off is too far? I wouldn't trust their options. Thier goal is to get you to keep testing, not offer real advice about your motor. (Many of those 'wear' metals are actually in fresh, unused oil and I suspect filter media has a big effect as well.)
You would really need to test way more often than once an oil change and then you would need similar motorS to compare to.
Fuel, coolant, soot and water contamination are what you need to worry about.
1. Make sure there is oil in the engine (check it between changes)
2. Change it periodically (I change it when the dash says percent life is about 25%)
3. I used to say conventional is good enough - but with the timing chain 'stretch' in these motors from microscopic wear, I use synthetic. (Castrol Edge is cheap at Walmart in the 5 quart jugs).
I hope this helps.
Nope.Does this vehicle have the air intake installed on it yet?
They are thinking long term. If the reports were only "everything looks fine, keep doing the same" time after time, you'll start wondering why you are testing. They either have to give you bad news or good news to help you justify the cost of the testing.If they wanted you to test more, why would they tell you to go longer between changes........
They were 2x the costs so let's seeI’ve been running those pads on my Tahoe and love them, put a set on my brothers car and recommend them to everyone.
They were 2x the costs so let's see
145k. Fluid is clear. One seal leaking but not a big deal.PTU still good?
FixedAlso why is this tagged with 'build'?