Concrete work

Bub

Pitter Patter
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I'm not sure if anyone on here does concrete work however I've had this issue since I bought my home and I'm finally sick of it. My driveway slopes down to my garage (it's a split level home) and with the concrete that has settled and cracked at the edge of my garage rain water no longer funnels into the drain and then it clogs and my garage gets filled with water. Not the end of the world but annoying as shit. There is a floor drain in the garage to alleviate the overflow Basically I want to know an estimated cost to get this repaired and if anyone recommends someone. Basically my thought is to cut 36" from the garage out. Put a nice long drain from end to end and then pour new concrete that slopes to that drain. Here's some pics for reference. The sand bags are placed at the lowest point to direct it back to the drain
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95cadc8340610a3abcebee73871a3f54.jpg
 

Teege24

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my dad has been doing concrete for 32 years and he said whoever did this installed the wrong drain...you need a grated trench drain...you would need to tear that whole slab out install the drain and poor around it....
 

importcrew

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Could just lift up that part of the concrete alleviate your issue? Maybe it's called leveling... where they pump something under the concrete to lift it up.

I believe you're referring to mud jacking. I used to do that with the draintile and foundation company I worked for years ago. From what I can see from the pics, break out all the concrete, replace the drain that's existing and replace it with the 4 inch by 4 foot drains for the entirety of the garage length (which seems like that's what you want) and make sure the existing draintile isn't clogged. Re-pour concrete.
 

importcrew

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There's plenty of places that take clean concrete for free (pieces of concrete that does not contain bars and whatnot), and you can rent an electric jackhammer (not sure about air hammer and compressor) from Home Depot or Lowe's or Menard's, and just use a decent quality concrete to re-pour. With a couple guys (2-3 guys) it should take a few hours of work.
 

Shawn1112

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There's plenty of places that take clean concrete (pieces of concrete that does not contain bars and whatnot), and you can rent an electric jackhammer (not sure about air hammer and compressor) from Home Depot or Lowe's or Menard's, and just use a decent quality concrete to re-pour. With a couple guys (2-3 guys) it should take a few hours of work.
I would rent the jack hammer from a place like Taylor Rental or similar. The ones at Home Depot and Menards are probably shit.
 

importcrew

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Anyone happen to know at what point do you stop using bagged concrete and start ordering? 1 yard? I know the trucks have minimums, but having to deal with 100 bags is probably a complete PITA

Most concrete places have a 3 yard minimum order and charge around $123 per yard. Every year prices go up. Those are about what prices are now for construction companies. Not sure if they charge the same price for people who don't normally order from the companies. Plus they may also charge fuel surcharge and hazardous fees.

Trying to go off that picture, kind of assuming 2 feet X 20 feet @ 6 inches deep, you're looking at about .74 cubic yards. Won't be worth ordering from a company. If it was an entire driveway, then yea. But it's a small slab. Best bet is to rent a concrete mixer or buy one (I believe about 200 - 300 dollars brand new although I'm sure you can find deals).
 

EmersonHart13

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Most concrete places have a 3 yard minimum order and charge around $123 per yard. Every year prices go up. Those are about what prices are now for construction companies. Not sure if they charge the same price for people who don't normally order from the companies. Plus they may also charge fuel surcharge and hazardous fees.

Trying to go off that picture, kind of assuming 2 feet X 20 feet @ 6 inches deep, you're looking at about .74 cubic yards. Won't be worth ordering from a company. If it was an entire driveway, then yea. But it's a small slab. Best bet is to rent a concrete mixer or buy one (I believe about 200 - 300 dollars brand new although I'm sure you can find deals).

I need to have the front of my garage, where the door sits, re done because the garage settled in the middle and the door doesn't seal right. It is like 16' x 3' so it isn't much concrete. Thanks!
 

LoveSpank

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OK DONT do concrete jackingm its a joke in More ways then one!! As it may be cheaper to do bag mix at times, I am a firm believer in always using redimix trucks for several reasons - one being all concrete is mixed consistently and its less mess hassle and if u happen to get shit concrete most redi mix companies warranty there product. Also keep in mind if a job calls for 1 yard rule of thumb is to always order 25-50% more then measured for... Air Air Air the electronic hammers have no balls or weight yes might be more for rental but twice to three times faster ..

Where r u located and fro. What I see in the pics I would install a drain ¾ the length of the drive and that would eliminate all issues
 

importcrew

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OK DONT do concrete jackingm its a joke in More ways then one!! As it may be cheaper to do bag mix at times, I am a firm believer in always using redimix trucks for several reasons - one being all concrete is mixed consistently and its less mess hassle and if u happen to get shit concrete most redi mix companies warranty there product. Also keep in mind if a job calls for 1 yard rule of thumb is to always order 25-50% more then measured for... Air Air Air the electronic hammers have no balls or weight yes might be more for rental but twice to three times faster ..

Where r u located and fro. What I see in the pics I would install a drain ¾ the length of the drive and that would eliminate all issues

For a small job it isn't worth ordering a truck that's less than 2.5 yards. Unless you can get it per yard with no minimum, you're gonna have to spend extra money than needed. Especially since prices rise every year for ordering with concrete trucks. That's at least the case with Ozinga, and Super Mix. Air hammers will always be better and quicker. But if you're not trying to spend to much, an electric hammer will suffice for a small job. I've used electric hammers for many jobs but yea, it'll take longer to break. Especially depending on the thickness of the concrete. But if somebody is willing to spend for the rental of an air compressor and air hammer, then it'll be quicker.

Just be sure to wear eyes and ears. Also mask preferably as there's plenty of dust.
 

EmersonHart13

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OK DONT do concrete jackingm its a joke in More ways then one!! As it may be cheaper to do bag mix at times, I am a firm believer in always using redimix trucks for several reasons - one being all concrete is mixed consistently and its less mess hassle and if u happen to get shit concrete most redi mix companies warranty there product. Also keep in mind if a job calls for 1 yard rule of thumb is to always order 25-50% more then measured for... Air Air Air the electronic hammers have no balls or weight yes might be more for rental but twice to three times faster ..

Where r u located and fro. What I see in the pics I would install a drain ¾ the length of the drive and that would eliminate all issues

So when you need 3/4 of a yard for a project do you buy and pay for 3 yds then and just eat the rest?
 

importcrew

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I need to have the front of my garage, where the door sits, re done because the garage settled in the middle and the door doesn't seal right. It is like 16' x 3' so it isn't much concrete. Thanks!

How uneven is it? Is it possible to use a different/larger kind of weatherstrip on the bottom of the garage door or even use a self leveling concrete mix and just even out the floor a bit? How much settling is there on the floor? Just the front of the garage (by the garage door) or the entire garage slab?

Also, even with 3/4 of a yard, I'd say at least get 1 yard. Doing bag mixes, buy extra. You can always take some back if you don't need it.
 

EmersonHart13

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Just the front of the slab, it evens back out within 2 feet. The cliff, as I like to call it, occurs twice and is around 3/4"ish but I haven't measured it.

I put a fresh strip on the bottom and it helped but there is still a visible gap because it is a sharp transition. I suppose that self leveling concrete could work as well. I just questioned how well it would stay there being driven over every day.
 

rocket5979

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OK DONT do concrete jackingm its a joke in More ways then one!! As it may be cheaper to do bag mix at times, I am a firm believer in always using redimix trucks for several reasons - one being all concrete is mixed consistently and its less mess hassle and if u happen to get shit concrete most redi mix companies warranty there product. Also keep in mind if a job calls for 1 yard rule of thumb is to always order 25-50% more then measured for... Air Air Air the electronic hammers have no balls or weight yes might be more for rental but twice to three times faster ..

Where r u located and fro. What I see in the pics I would install a drain ¾ the length of the drive and that would eliminate all issues



Holy crap a 50% waste factor is huge! That's a lot of wasted money on a big job! Usually 10% is the better area to be if your estimators are good at their volume computations.

Doing less than 1 CY is just not worth it to order from a TM, especially considering the OP's final mix volume may end up closer to .5 CY once the drain trench volume is taken into account. If this ends up being a DIY I suggest keeping it simple and mixing some bags of crete together in a wheelbarrow with a hoe and placing by hand; assuming you can get those bags for a decent price. If there is some sort of a slope needed, then a stringline, line level, and tape can be used to get things eye-balled.
 
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