🔧 BUILD CMNT's thing is bigger than yours v. cubic inch displacement

[CMNTMXR57]

You still won't get $2 from me. And others are countering your efforts...

 

[SpeedSpeak2me]

You still won't get $2 from me.

Or a DEWALT battery.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

So late last Sunday I discovered I have the dreaded transfer case pump rub. Basically the rotor on the pump isn't properly clearanced and it grinds against the transfer case housing eventually working through.

So moanday, I tried to quickly clean and apply a layer of permatex steel weld. I chose this over traditional JB Weld (which I also have) because this is almost as strong but cures much faster. 4-6 hours vs. 24 hours. Anyway, it helped a little, but was still leaking out. So today, I cleaned up again and liberally applied another batch of steel weld. It's curing now. I am glad I caught this when I did as I was only down 6 ounces of auto-trak fluid. So it has been a recent issue...

Here is the pinhole;

Fresh, heavy coat of steel weld;

While this isn't the truly correct way to fix it, it buys me time and maybe when it is warmer out, I will take the case apart, get the correctly clearanced pump, and do it right. But if this stops it/slows it down, I can live with it for now.

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

what is the 'right' way of fixing the case once the new pump is installed ?

 

[CMNTMXR57]

I think the name of the aftermarket company that makes a revised pump assembly, properly clearanced is merchant automotiven IIRC.

You have to remove the driveshaft, drain the fluid in the case the separate the case, remove the back half of the case, remove the pump assembly, install the new pump assembly and reinstall everything. If your case is really chewed up, this would be the time to replace that too.

 

[duramax302]

The kit from Merchant Automotive is a great. This isn’t a bad job to do yourself. Did this in an afternoon on my old Duramax LB7 years ago.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

So I let it sit and cure for 5 hours (this stuff has a cure time of 4 - 6 hours), and when I got home, some 15 miles, not a drop coming out.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

BTW, for those viewing, in the pic above, the piece that grinds against the case is that metal plate on the shaft right after the bearings and toothed sprocket.

 

[taws697]

I’ve had this sitting in my garage for years. I’m not sure if you have the the same transfer case as the Duramax/Allison’s. You can have it if you’d like though.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

Yes sir, I will take it. Saves me from having to order later.

Will PM.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

So, after about 50 miles, when putting the plow on last night, I thought I would check. I did find a real tiny leak still but nothing like the original leak. In the next area up from where I got the bulk last weekend. It's nothing major but still will get another coat this weekend.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

Another round of perma-tex steel weld to finish sealing the transfer case

And then, if you recall a few weeks back when I found the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield loose and rattling, well in removal I had to loosen one of the manifold bolts to remove it. Well, I guess the loc-tite from the factory was no good any more even after i torqued it to spec, so I just removed the stud completely and treated it with blue loc-tite and sent it...

 

[CMNTMXR57]

Driving today, enjoying the weather, windows down, and I hear a very faint ticking sound on the passenger side as I was next to other cars, walls, guardrails, etc...

Sure as shit, that bolt was loose again. Pulled it back out and it looks like only a 1/3rd of the thread size is there. So until I can get to Lowes and pick up a couple M8 x 1.25, 30mm flange bolts, I re-loctited it and torqued it back to 12 lb/ft.

I'll probably chase a tap through the head too, just to make sure that is clean.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

So Nothing overly spectacular, after watching the old Suburban rust away underneath (particularly fuel lines, brake lines, bolts underneath that will need to be cut off to remove anything, etc...), I want to make sure this one doesn't.

So awhile back and finally got around to doing it yesterday. I had ordered a 6-pack of black fluid film spray. I ended up only using two cans yesterday.

Unlike the '99, the main fuel tank (there is also a reserve tank on this one), is tightly nestled up to the drivers side frame rail, so a chunk of the fuel lines and brake lines are very well isolated from the elements unlike the '99. Anyway, got the diff, frame rails, cross-members and front suspension parts to a point. This stuff is lanolin based so my hands are now silky smooth, but it was a messy endeavor and this shit stinks.

 

[Bob Kazamakis]

Doesn’t look too bad in black. I periodically spray my rust on the blazer with the standard stuff and yes it’s so fucking smelly.


Is it best to wash it periodically thru winter or leave it?

 

[CMNTMXR57]

I'm trying to find out now as I was a little surprised it was still "wet" today. But that's the lanolin, not the actual black "paint" portion and from the way I'm understanding it, that's the key to why it works, so I would want to limit it getting spray off unnecessarily.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

From a thread on Tacoma world;

You should rinse your undercarriage with plain cold high pressure water to get the salt off. If you don't blast the frame to hard when rinsing and put enough fluid film on, it will last a while and not come off in one or two rinses.

By spring time if you get a salty winter where you are rinsing the truck every week or every other week, then it will be mostly gone. You should plan on applying it in both early spring and late fall. Early spring with all the wetness and humidity and warmer temps, is when most professional undercoating companies recommend having it done.

 

[Jimy Bilmo]

From a thread on Tacoma world;

Recommend this stuff pre application and post winter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JQQG2T2/?tag=tcg21-20

 

[CMNTMXR57]

Ok, thank you. Reading up on it now.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

From a thread on Tacoma world;

So reading up more in that thread, many have mixed results. Some like an Amsoil product called MPHD (or something like that), etc...

Some guys dump more cans that I did, but they're pulling body plugs, doing wheel wells, dropping spares, etc... I didn't quite go that blitzkrieg on it. I just wanted main pain points protected.

If anything, it will be better than nothing. And if I do it annually (before winter), I'm sure it helps significantly. I don't need to do it necessarily in spring because generally by the time the warm months come, I am driving the G8 or Caddy and the truck sits for the most part.

 

[Jimy Bilmo]

So reading up more in that thread, many have mixed results. Some like an Amsoil product called MPHD (or something like that), etc...

Some guys dump more cans that I did, but they're pulling body plugs, doing wheel wells, dropping spares, etc... I didn't quite go that blitzkrieg on it. I just wanted main pain points protected.

If anything, it will be better than nothing. And if I do it annually (before winter), I'm sure it helps significantly. I don't need to do it necessarily in spring because generally by the time the warm months come, I am driving the G8 or Caddy and the truck sits for the most part.

I think I have 5 more cans of MPHD left. It's good stuff, and now that I own German cars that don't have these typical American car issues, thanks to Shawn1112 I've been using MPHD as my garage door track and roller lubrication. Lasts way longer than WD40. Also, sprayed down the snow blower too.

 

[CMNTMXR57]

Well, I am reading all this on a Toyota Tacoma website, so it's not just American car issues. Those German's must be using some fancy steel that defies standard physics?

 

[Jimy Bilmo]

Well, I am reading all this on a Toyota Tacoma website, so it's not just American car issues. Those German's must be using some fancy steel that defies standard physics?

Yeah, subframes and aluminum

 

[CMNTMXR57]

American cars do that too. GM W and H Bodies have been doing that since 2000.

Just the first thing that came up in a search... 2000 - 2007 Monte Carlo subframe

 

[Jimy Bilmo]

American cars do that too. GM W and H Bodies have been doing that since 2000.

Talking most things: control arms, etc. Actually, Porsche was pretty bad with the Cayenne's still using cast shit, but have been much better recently. And you'll rarely find a German car body rusting out on anything that's a 2006 and newer. Where as my Ram was getting cancer in numerous areas at 5 years old and 99k miles.