Clutch Issues

Jack1

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Background:
Currently @ 27,000 miles

DFX Clutch, Fluidanza Flywheel, Liberty 26 spline shaft, TOB all installed Dec of 2005 @ 21,000 Miles

Steeda Firewall Adjuster and Quadrant install ~spring 2005 @ 17,000

First clutch issue appeared on the way to MSC5 Sept 2006 with 25,000 on the ODO.. while passing up a semi truck I downshifted and floored the gas, towards the top of the gear I could feel the clutch slipping and the rpm's jumped.. any subsequent attempt to give more than 50% throttle resulted in the RPM's jumping and the car not going anywhere... once I got to US41 I let the car cool down, and made some 1/4 passes about 6 in total... the clutch only slipped on two of the runs.

After MSC, I still had the clucth slip issue, so I called Hans and told him my story... he immediately said to adjust the Firewall cable adjuster (duh, I should have thought of that).. So I adjusted the cable and sure enough the slippage disapeared.

Over the course of the next 2,000 times, I have had to adjust the firewall adjuster a half dozen times because of clutch slippage.

Yesterday I went to US41 to get some runs in, I had 4 total runs, and every one had at least a little clutch slip, especially at launch...

One thing I found interesting/weird was my second run... I lined up in the water box, activated the line-lock, poped the clutch @ 4,500 in 2nd gear, waited for the smoke, and nothing.. the track guy looks at me puzzled, and I have no idea why the tires aren't spinning... and I didn't even smell the clutch... So I then put it in first get the rpm's up and pop the clutch now the tires spin and smoke... weird as hell... the clutch held decent through the run.. my 60ft sucked.. I couldn't tell if it was spinning of clutch slip.

My best 60ft was a 1.99 and worst a 2.2... thes are the same ties that I consistently got 1.62-1.75's my last time out to the track

Any thoughts? ideas? or should I just bite the bullet and pull the Clutch/Flywheel out and inspect it?
 

Racerx66

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Not to sound like a smart ass, but give serious consideration to getting a new clutch... and NOT a DFX.
 
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Jack1

Jack1

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Racerx66 said:
Not to sound like a smart ass, but give serious consideration to getting a new clutch... and NOT a DFX.
K



reasons?
 

Flyn

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Is your clutch set up with approx. 1/8" of freeplay? A quick way to check is to pull the cable out from the firewall. It should move 1/8". If it's not the adjustment, unfortunately, it's most likely the clutch. On the other hand, that's weird that the gear wouldn't engage the one time. That sounds more like it wasn't going into gear maybe from a linkage problem. :dunno:

I've also heard a couple of anti DFX stories but haven't heard details. Maybe do a search on modfords or svtp.
 

mosconiac

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I've yet to hear a bad experience about the Ram Powergrip HD. That's what I will be going with...
 

Racerx66

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mosconiac said:
I've yet to hear a bad experience about the Ram Powergrip HD. That's what I will be going with...
I've also heard good things about the Ram. If I had to do a clutch today, I would definitely consider the Ram and also look into the SPEC offerings.

Jack, with the power you're making and the weight of the car, I don't think the DFX is up to the task. With what you've described, definitely time for a new one and like Cliff said, definitely check the linkage.
 

Flatliner

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I don't think anyone here has had issues with the DFX, but I have read that these clutches do not like slippage. Matter of fact if the clutch was initially not adjusted properly with the firewall adjuster, it helps the demise of these clutches much quicker. Carl or Larry should jump in as I am not sure what their shelf life has been with them.
 

Dana

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If the DFX is installed and maintained correctly, it is a good clutch.
I beat the shit out of mine and have had no problems.
I am launching on spray and running 10.50's
NO clutch is going to live very long if it is slipping, no matter what brand it is.
A DFX, or any similar type of clutch, is not made to be slipped off of the line.
As mentioned earlier, the misadjustment may have damaged it beyond repair.
Dana
 
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Jack1

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Dana said:
the misadjustment may have damaged it beyond repair.
Dana
damn it... that's what I feared
 

Dragon03

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If it turns out your clutch is bad I would stay away from Fidenza....I have a 3.2 with an alunimnum flywheel and I cant stand it. I have gone thru 2 adjustable clutch cables, 1 throw out bearing and have been jacking around with the firewall adjuster because the clutch likes to make noise. It grips but I dont like driving around listening to it clatter or chirp or cricket all damn day. I dont see anyone talk about Fidenza and I have to say I know why......
 
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Jack1

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Dragon03 said:
If it turns out your clutch is bad I would stay away from Fidenza....I have a 3.2 with an alunimnum flywheel and I cant stand it. I have gone thru 2 adjustable clutch cables, 1 throw out bearing and have been jacking around with the firewall adjuster because the clutch likes to make noise. It grips but I dont like driving around listening to it clatter or chirp or cricket all damn day. I dont see anyone talk about Fidenza and I have to say I know why......

I already have their Aluminum Flywheel.. that I'd like to resurface.

not sure on the clutch choices really.


I'm open to suggestions
 

Flatliner

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Jack what adjuster are you using? I am goingt pretty much with your exact set up and not even hesitating about it.

As far as cable, most will tell you to use the stock one as aftermarket ones can bind break... etc.
 

WhtSuperStang

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Flatliner said:
As far as cable, most will tell you to use the stock one as aftermarket ones can bind break... etc.

yes stay away from aftermarket cables they suck! i had one on my car and it barely lasted 10k after being installed!
 
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Jack1

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Flatliner said:
Jack what adjuster are you using? I am goingt pretty much with your exact set up and not even hesitating about it.

As far as cable, most will tell you to use the stock one as aftermarket ones can bind break... etc.
Steeda Firewall adjuster (Blue Anodized)
Steeda Clutch Quick Release Quadrant
Stock Cable
 

Mystic Terminator

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I have a used DFX if you want to give that a try. I think it is in good shape, a micrometer could confirm it. I removed it and went w/ Lyle's old DF clutch instead since a DFX was too grabby for me and not needed for road course.

If you want to do it yourself, I could help one or two evenings after work.
 

Dana

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Jack, I would seriously consider Vince's offer.
That disc is virtually new.

The cover you have may be salvageable. Maybe...

Dan
 

cobravenom39

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I changed my stocker out for a SpecIIIi 10k ago, and haven't had any issues yet, aside from clutch chatter. But what the hell ya want with 600rwhp??
 

JA$ON

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Dana said:
If the DFX is installed and maintained correctly, it is a good clutch.
I beat the shit out of mine and have had no problems.
NO clutch is going to live very long if it is slipping, no matter what brand it is.
A DFX, or any similar type of clutch, is not made to be slipped off of the line.
As mentioned earlier, the misadjustment may have damaged it beyond repair.
Dana
+1

I was launching on the button 700+ FT/LBS and cutting 1.4 60' times on 28" tires all last year. I'm not saying you do slip the clutch, but I believe you run on 18" drag radials right? You probably have to slip it some to get the tires to hook, at least I would think.

I think the important thing to make the DFX live is not slipping it AT ALL. The clutch pedal is all the way up or on the floor, thats it, nothing in between. If you want something that you can slip......well I dont know what to recommend, but not the DFX

Like stated, once a clutch begins to slip......the end is near.
 

Wiked03

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I have almost 10k miles and about 40 passes on my DFX with no issues. Don't know if it matters, but I am using a stock 01 cobra flywheel (steel.)
 
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Jack1

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Mystic Terminator said:
I have a used DFX if you want to give that a try. I think it is in good shape, a micrometer could confirm it. I removed it and went w/ Lyle's old DF clutch instead since a DFX was too grabby for me and not needed for road course.

If you want to do it yourself, I could help one or two evenings after work.
I'll take you up on it.

I'll give you a call in the next few days when I get some free time.

Thanks again!
 

Flatliner

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The reason I ask on the FW adjuster is that the fiore makes for the easiest adjmustent with just a click of the dial. My BF FW adjuster allows for a more precise adj. with a slight turn and locks with a thumb screw no tools required, but I am always scared that I missed where I was. I would find myself letting it all out and starting my adjusment over rather than just turing it a 1/8 turn etc.

Dana has written a few times on how to adj. these but you need to look at where the finger tips of the pressue plate touch the clutch, but I don't know many who could give the right answer and are under our car that often. The problem is like Jason said slipping leads to clutch that is done, but that FW adj just adds to the confusion if you are not sure what to do. I ordered a Fiore adj with my clutch today, but I have a feeling I will leave my BF on.
 

ITSQUIK

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When I had Hans ( the magician ) do the 26 spline upgrade I had him install the DFX Clutch, PP, TB, Fidanza Flywheel ( with replaceable contact section ) Fiore Micro Click Adjuster, RED Steeda Clutch Quadrant, and Maximum Motorsports Clutch Pedal Height Adjuster.

LOVE IT - LOVE IT - LOVE IT!!!

I do hear the chatter hear and there but like Andy said what do you expect. I have been a very big fan of this set up ever since it was all installed.

Sounds weird though why it didnt grab and spin the tires when in 2nd vs. 1st gear. Hope you get it all fixed quickly!!
 

Since 1964

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FWIW My McLeod Street Twin has been a dead on MONSTER for me. It has to be installed RIGHT. Props to Jerry at Sutton.
 

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