đź’¦ Detailing Ceramic coating on my Buick

v6buicks

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When I bought this car 8 years ago, I thought it was just about perfect. I'm not sure if that's because it actually was a lot nicer back then or if I've just noticed a lot more issues with it since I started digging into it. Regardless, the paint has seen better days. It still looks great in pictures, but it really starting to need a paint job.

In a last ditch effort to make this thing look nice for just a little while longer, I decided that I'm going to drop it off at Indy Auto Spa for treatment because I am most definitely not the guy for the job. The guy on the phone mentioned that they have depth gauges and some kind of service that should take care of a lot of the smaller imperfects without rubbing on it too much. I asked for ceramic coating as well because it seems like the hip thing to do, but the response was not really what I expected. He didn't think that really expensive coating was worth it for a car that's not a daily driver. I don't know if he misunderstood what I was going for if I just don't understand what I'm asking for, which I don't.

No, the car doesn't see the outdoors or even the sun very much, but it does get stored in a dusty barn with a cover on top which I believe is causing hell on my paint. I always thought ceramic coating was sort of a self-leveling barrier. Will this help keep the car looking nicer for longer? Why wouldn't I want an even better coating then?

GS Nationals 1 10-18.jpg
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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I'm posting a short reply that will be edited with a longer version.
stand by.

I would ask if they have a generic 'coating thickness gauge' or if they have a Defelsco unit. The Defelsco is said to be able to measure individual layers of material/paint to more accurately estimate the amount of clear coat.
A generic coating thickness gauge will measure primer, base coat and clear.... or just primer and single stage.
It may also have false readings if there any type of filler.
This information will help them take the least aggressive polishing approach to preserve the paint.

Kudos to them for suggesting that the cost of a coating 'may not' be what your vehicle needs based on how it is used. IE - Garaged and does not see inclement weather.

Now, with that said, if you want a coating, then that is your choice. Forgive me but is the GN single stage ? If so, I would suggest finding a coating that is formulated to work on single stage. Reason being, single stage can be porous and may absorb some of the product. The last thing you want is a blotchy coating job.
Gtechniq C1 Laquer is specifically for single stage paint.

Yes, a coating will help keep the vehicle cleaner, longer. It will help with washing and cleaning / 'quick detailing' etc.
Can this be accomplished with a Polymer sealant ? Yes. How long will it last ? on a car like this, I would think best case 8-12 months. A sealant can always be reapplied. The goal is to keep marring and swirls to a minimum so that the vehicle does not require yearly polishing.

Coatings are not scratch proof, swirl proof, etc. The washing and drying process on your end should be dialed in before spending the money on a full detail.
For a 'classic' vehicle that does not get real dirty, I would suggest learning how to safely clean the car with a rinseless wash. Optimum ONR is the OG and some same still the GOAT ( even with all sorts of new products ().

The rag company just came out with the USS ( Ultra Safe Sponge ). This is made for rinseless washing. Quality MF towels to dry the vehicle ( Gauntlet, Liquidator or even the Platinum Pluffle ).
There are TONS of videos on their YT channel that show how to properly rinseless wash a car.

This same product can be used to remove light dust before a show or a night out.

Coatings also require yearly maintenance. Yes, even on a garage queen. They only way to remove a quality coating is to re-polish.

Did they say what Coatings they offer ?
 

v6buicks

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Thank you! :bowdown:

I didn't ask a lot of questions mainly because I didn't really know what to ask. All I heard about was a 1-year basic and "gold" coating vs a 7 year or something like that. He did acknowledge that the car would have a single stage paint without me needing to tell him, so at least he knows?

I generally give the car a wash with a car wash soap and big sponge once a year or whenever it sees dirt/rain. It's usually clean enough that I can just spray detail it throughout the summer. I use stuff made by turtle wax specifically for black paint. It cleans it up really nice without leaving a bunch of streaks. I don't know if that's the best practice or not. As far as drying, I'll probably get flamed for using a bath towel to get the majority off and then finish with micro fibers and spray detail.

I want to be better. I just don't really know what I'm doing.
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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I think you would benefit from a phone call with me.
I can PM you a list of questions to ask. He could have guessed at the single stage paint because of the year of the car. I'm not putting anyone down, this company may be high quality.

The type of soap, wash media and drying media you use is very important to preventing marks in the paint.
The quick detailing / dry rubbing with the TW stuff is probably the worst thing you can do. Especially on a black car.

I would NOT spend the money on getting the car polished and protected ( no matter what level of protection ) until you work on your 'cleaning' process.
if you were to have the car coated and continue with the same procedure, the paint would be trashed in months.
 
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v6buicks

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For anyone reading this, the phone call happened. Gav created some homework for me, but the phone call made it a lot easier to figure out who to listen to.

While there is a ton of information available, I've never really known who to trust. There are a lot of opinions and people who just get stuck in their ways. I usually don't like to take advice from a company that's just trying to sell their products, but when somebody who knows their stuff and has nothing to gain spends 45 mins explaining rinseless washes and which brands are best I have no reason not to sit down and take notes.

I watched a how-to video from The Rag Company and feel like its easy enough for me to grasp. I think I'm ready to pitch all my rags and most of my chemicals and start fresh, but I have some questions I want answered before I check out. First time buyers get 15% off so I want to make it count!

I have a pump sprayer at home that I might have used once for round up. I've come close to throwing it out a few times. Do you think it would be safe to run some of that rinseless wash through it just to clean it out and then use it to spray cars?

How does this look for a quick starter kit? I was thinking about getting some dry rags too.
1711645438986.png
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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I would agree, I would not risk using the sprayer for detailing purposes. Even if you cleaned it with a dish detergent, I would still be leery.

I'm not sure why you chose the 10x10 all purpose terry towels. Those may be okay for wiping down the dash and/or the wheels but for paint, you would want some 'cushion.'
Edgeless 365 is a good all around towel.
If you wanted to level up, you could go with any of the EAGLE towels. These are not very absorbent. I would not use them to 'dry' any thing.
Final wipe down, yes.
FTWs are really awesome, but quite pricey. This would be a towel to buy down the road.

Gauntlet, Liquidator or Double Twistress ( available in a 2 pack ) for the drying towel.

If their Ultra Safe Sponge is available, I would choose that over the Ultra black sponge. The USS is gray in color and supposed to be even softer/ more pliable.
They just launched it.

other than that, I think your starter kit looks good.
 

v6buicks

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Aaaaaaand we're doubling some of that stuff so that I'll have separate rags and sponge for the truck, but mostly because free shipping. lol

I look forward to it. Maybe you can make me love washing cars again. I loved it back when I was in high school, but my first car was white and my standards were quite low. :ROFLMAO:
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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Yep, MF as a material grabs and holds on to stuff. Dont wash them after a dog blanket because they will end up covered in hair.
If a towel his the ground, I would not use it on paint or wheels. It can be repurposed for engine bay or other 'dirty jobs.'
If it falls in mulch or wood chips, I would throw it out.
 
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v6buicks

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Just thought of something else to consider.

I have new hood badges for the car, and the chrome on my fender badges have turned green. They're only going to look worse when the paint is shined up.

What is the best order for removing the old and resticking new? I'm kinda relying on witness marks from the original badges to get them in the right spots so I don't really want to remove, send to detail and replace. Any product recommendations for removing the foam backing? Eraser wheel?
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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Definitely replace them before the detail. The adhesive will likely not stick to the coating.

Eraser wheel is okay but exercise caution.
Goo gone may help break down the foam/adhesive.
There are other stronger products out there but it would.not be worth the $$ if it was a one time use.
Stoners tarminator is a good choice
 

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