Car suddenly not wanting to start
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
Changes:
1. Power wire routing. Separated battery/alternator from starter/fuse box. Power is not an issue, but I have reconnected the 2 sides with the factory wiring.
2. Changed to a more substantial ground wire. Again, power not an issue.
3. Orientation of FPR. Tried turning it back over, almost all the way. No change.
Relay is fine, primes at key ON, primes after start attempt.
When I was checking for bad injectors, I pulled the fuel rail off with the injectors attached and cranked the engine. Yes it sprayed gasoline all over, but just a tiny amount and the engine was cold. It let me see which injectors were opening and which were not (and one kept leaking even when off).
They will either be spraying or not - either way will tell you a lot.
They will either be spraying or not - either way will tell you a lot.
That's the plan for tonight/tomorrow morning. What did you ultimately determine from that?
BOO to stock injectors! I guess I have no choice tho. That plan works for me. I have no idea where my stockers went.
It would be dribbling fuel out the injectors if it was only seeing 0-10 psi. Ruptured pump hoses are fairly common. if you're not getting a large amount of fuel coming out of the regulator going towards the tank then no it is not building pressure it takes pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator and allow it to return to the tank so that gives you one thing you can test
You got a 1/8 NPT fuel pressure gauge lying around that I could borrow? The PRJ rails have no Schrader valve, so I'm looking to install a gauge right into the FPR adapter block.
I had four that looked good, one was dead and one that was open all the time. Car had raw fuel coming out the tailpipe!
In your case, I suspect none will look good (nothing or just dribbles). Or they all will look OK and you have a problem elsewhere.
If you do have a bad hose in the tank like James suggests, this will show it. Beats dropping the tank IMO. With the PRJ rails, you only need to pull one side off.
I was referring to removing the return line side off of the fuel pressure regulator....aka the 5/16ths side. ..past/downstream of the regulator.
A burst hose at low pressure will flow quite well since the break will not be forced open. when it tries to build pressure a split hose inside the tank would open wide up and not allow any fuel pressure to build.
yes I got one 1/8th npt
A burst hose at low pressure will flow quite well since the break will not be forced open. when it tries to build pressure a split hose inside the tank would open wide up and not allow any fuel pressure to build.
yes I got one 1/8th npt
Gotcha, that's kinda what I was alluding to. That'll be easier to check than pull up the entire rail too. Will be my next course of action.
Unfortunately not much more than what's already been said. You can rent a fuel pressure guage from AZ for free.
I have my PRJ rails with the fuel pressure regulator and Autometer fuel pressure sensor you could swap out if you wanted for testing. (just hook up the sensor to BGs HPT.) Just an idea. LMK
I'm probably just going to take the line off of the FPR that goes to the rails to see what kind of pressure I'm getting out of it. Definitely appreciate the offer tho. I just need to find a 1/8 NPT Schrader valve, or a 1/8 NPT fuel pressure gauge to hook up to the PRJ FPR block.Red arrow in pic
Installed while the engine was out? Or installed after the headers were bolted on and safe from damage
Rears while engine was out, fronts after in the engine bay, before front header.
Hoping that James just found my mistake... Will know in a few hours.
Naah, definitely not that. Didn't touch the MAF or tune from last year. In upgrading to the braided SS lines, and installing them properly from the engine bay hard lines to the rails, I seem to have switched the feed and return lines on the fuel rails. DOH!
wned::doh:
:tmyk::thumbsdown::retard:at::rollseyes:
:lame::beer:
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