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🔧 Technical Car audio electrical guru's step in
- Thread starter Shawn1112
- Start date
I had a friend run both the 12v of the distribution block and remote to the positive battery terminal, and the ground to a rusty bolt under his trunk carpet. He couldn't figure out why his battery kept dying. Maybe cause your amps never turned off?
Would also bitch that his lights would dim when his four 12" (square, remember those?) Kickers would hit hard (and distort). Could it be that 18ga stranded wire you used on a 600w amp?
Would also bitch that his lights would dim when his four 12" (square, remember those?) Kickers would hit hard (and distort). Could it be that 18ga stranded wire you used on a 600w amp?
What do you suggest? I’ve pretty much been doing that for 25yrs and first time I ever had a ground issue. Also why did it go bad after a few months is my bigger concern?
No it’s not like the pic posted lol
The self tapper screw could have loosened over time now causing an issue. Last year the battery terminal was slightly loose and my radio would randomly restart. No other issues including starting.
Obviously clean metal as you know. I’d recommend a solid bolt solution through multiple layers of steel vs a screw.
Checked the self tapper, thats was the first thing I checked when I checked the ground today. Its as tight as it was when it was installed.
Still do them when I run a big enough system. Didnt think it was necessary on my Hoe.
On my Regal I'm running a 250 amp alternator and the big 3
The 71, I ordered a 370 amp alternator and will also be doing the big 3
I'll check tomorrow and report back, where are you going with the ground position?
I have enough 4 gauge laying around to run it outside the car to the battery to give that a shot.
You bump a wire or arc somethin? You running caps?I'm going to go out and do some more trouble shooting today and will start at the ground.
Also as mentioned, everything was working 100% fine up until I made the switch to the 1200/1 amp. Probably has nothing to do with it, but its strange
Brand new truck, so assuming its grounded to the body, arent they all? (not being sarcastic)
Sub signal, meaning my RCA's, if so. I'm grabbing that from the front door speakers using below link
Auto turn on, no. I was always under the impression that only came with some LOC which I'm not using
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW | 2-channel Speaker Wire to RCA Adaptor
JL Audio XD-CLRAIC2-SW Speaker Wire to RCA Cable • 2-channel Speaker Wire to RCA Adaptor for High-Level Signal Connection to Amplifiers 2-Channel Speaker Wire to RCA Adaptor for High-Level Signal Connection to Amplifiers • Left and Right Channel Male RCA Plugs to Parallel Speaker Cable • Satin...www.sonicelectronix.com
Thats in my 17 ltz I hid a shallow mount skar 12 800 watt amp and 2 farad cap underneath the back seat. Had to get that pac adapter to hook it in with the bose but I've been slammin systems in stuff since I was 14. Got 2 10s in the camaro in the side boxes so I can still put my t tops back there got a 10 in my boom truck got a whole ass other 12 1000 watt amp and wires sittin here for some other reason too. I pretty much won't drive anything with a shitty stereo but id rock an 81 Honda if it had some decent beats in it lol
did you loosen and retighten that ground se3lf tapper?
it may not be that actual bolt/cable lug, what its screwed to may havesizzled, creating carbon and getting resistance at anything other than .01 amps
to properly test voltage drop across that ground with the amp connected/powered up. put meter on 20v dc, one lead to sheetmetal other than the ground you made, and the other first at the bolt, then the lug, then the cable and then at the amp.
your checking voltage with both leads going to "ground" but at different points. wherever you find it reading ~5v is where the resistance is at while under load, with the amp powered down, the same test would likely never see the voltage drop across the poor connection.
im still leaning towards a ground dude.
i still cant believe your grounding it to the body sheetmetal, where current has to flow through 300 spotwelds holding the 16 pcs of sheetmetal together to get to the front, to travel through a small 10gauge wire to the framerail, then to the block/ground cable to the battery (this is uasually the only point where the factory ground cable is 4 gauge).
now that i think about it you may have fried the factory body ground, being unfused that bugger might melt, especially if the auxillary body to block ground is missing (its usually a bare ribbon of wire, uninsulated)
it may not be that actual bolt/cable lug, what its screwed to may havesizzled, creating carbon and getting resistance at anything other than .01 amps
to properly test voltage drop across that ground with the amp connected/powered up. put meter on 20v dc, one lead to sheetmetal other than the ground you made, and the other first at the bolt, then the lug, then the cable and then at the amp.
your checking voltage with both leads going to "ground" but at different points. wherever you find it reading ~5v is where the resistance is at while under load, with the amp powered down, the same test would likely never see the voltage drop across the poor connection.
im still leaning towards a ground dude.
i still cant believe your grounding it to the body sheetmetal, where current has to flow through 300 spotwelds holding the 16 pcs of sheetmetal together to get to the front, to travel through a small 10gauge wire to the framerail, then to the block/ground cable to the battery (this is uasually the only point where the factory ground cable is 4 gauge).
now that i think about it you may have fried the factory body ground, being unfused that bugger might melt, especially if the auxillary body to block ground is missing (its usually a bare ribbon of wire, uninsulated)
. Self tapping sheet metal screw or I think I had a ground block once, still fastened to the unibody.
I started installing at 18, and I'm 45 now. Thats the way I was taught and thats how I have always done it.
Well as you found out it works for the smaller stuff...it does not work when you're playing with the big dogs/amps
I’m getting at because of the battery is grounded to the frame then you should be grounded to the frame. Like James said your ground could be going through like 10000 spot welds, through some 10 gauge ground wire to the frame then to the battery. Some already suggested to take some 4 gauge straight to the battery and see what happens.
In my car i have to have the headunit, the steering wheel control module, pin 11 on the factory harness and something else all grounded together at the dash. Then run a 12 gauge wire back to the power and ground distribution block and ground everything to the distribution block. Amps, DSP. Everything. I have 0 gauge power and ground from battery to distribution block. I have a big system with a lot of pieces so everything comes to a common good ground.
In my car i have to have the headunit, the steering wheel control module, pin 11 on the factory harness and something else all grounded together at the dash. Then run a 12 gauge wire back to the power and ground distribution block and ground everything to the distribution block. Amps, DSP. Everything. I have 0 gauge power and ground from battery to distribution block. I have a big system with a lot of pieces so everything comes to a common good ground.
I picked up nearly four decibels with my 4 12 rf punch powers my Imperial running the two gauge ground cable along with the 2 gauge power cable to the back.
I remember at one point during the summer I was changing out brushes on my alternator about every four or five weeks or so God I was stupid I'm still pretty sure my left eardrum is detached because of that car.
Thankfully I sold everything and bought my first Snap-on tool box
I remember at one point during the summer I was changing out brushes on my alternator about every four or five weeks or so God I was stupid I'm still pretty sure my left eardrum is detached because of that car.
Thankfully I sold everything and bought my first Snap-on tool box
i had to use a piece of 2ga with the insulation cut away just so i could fit the damn snapon VATS current probe on. transients to 300amps to the 4 1F caps. pegged it at 500 between the caps and the 4 800.2 in mono.
so many pieces of crome trim broke off of that car. half the damn car was asphault dampening mat/mastic.
champagne 92 chrysler Imperial
i got really good at working on that 604 trans
so many pieces of crome trim broke off of that car. half the damn car was asphault dampening mat/mastic.
champagne 92 chrysler Imperial
i got really good at working on that 604 trans
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