Buy or fix 2006 Chevy Express 3500 Passenger Van

pdalach

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Jul 26, 2019
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I have a 2006 chevy express 3500 extended passenger van, approximately 87K miles. Its my primary family vehicle, and we often tow our ~5500# travel trailer for family vacations.

We've had a consistent set of mechanical issues over the last couple of years: wiring to a cylinder chewed through, clutch fan broken, ignition solenoid busted, alternator replaced, front passenger wheel bearings replaced, replaced water pump.

Now, we have transaction control kicking when there is no issue (no ABS issues as of yet) as well as some high pitched whine that seems to be coming from the bearings of something connected to the belt (AC compressor, maybe).

I've had many vehicles over the years, but I've always gotten rid of them when I needed a more capable vehicle...one that fits more kids or tows more weight. The Express van vehicle platform works for us as a family.

The question is, when do you know to quit on a vehicle? In particular, given there are so many junked Express van with cheap parts, does it make sense to just keep fixing. I can get a lot of parts for the 10-20k more I'd pay for an newer model. And newer models don't seem to offer a lot more than what I currently have.
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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We've had a consistent set of mechanical issues over the last couple of years: wiring to a cylinder chewed through, clutch fan broken, ignition solenoid busted, alternator replaced, front passenger wheel bearings replaced, replaced water pump.

i mean, that's not all that much really... :rofl:
 

pdalach

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Jul 26, 2019
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Agreed...I haven't thought that the work done on it has been excessive. Seems in line with the age, mileage, and fact that its stored outside.

I'm more curious as to when you know enough is enough. I'm concerned that at some point, I'll have to swap in more and more parts...when does the cost of continued, accelerating maintenance not worth it? I need this vehicle to be reliable. When do you start to think along the lines of "I'm not driving this across country with my wife and 6 small children"?
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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These are usually reasons I've dumped vehicles.

Rust on structural or mechanical. (Fuck replacing fuel and brake lines)

Oil / trans leaks that aren't just gaskets and isn't just add a qt of oil every couple months (although pita)

Engine knocking or trans slipping or gears shifting rough (after doing the obvious like filters and fresh fluids)

Leaves me stranded a couple times. I don't care so much if stuff breaks, it's when it's repetitive and leaves me stranded is when I get pissed off.
 

pdalach

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Jul 26, 2019
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These are usually reasons I've dumped vehicles.

Rust on structural or mechanical. (Fuck replacing fuel and brake lines)

Oil / trans leaks that aren't just gaskets and isn't just add a qt of oil every couple months (although pita)

Engine knocking or trans slipping or gears shifting rough (after doing the obvious like filters and fresh fluids)

Leaves me stranded a couple times. I don't care so much if stuff breaks, it's when it's repetitive and leaves me stranded is when I get pissed off.

I only have rust on a passenger door...dont' really care of that rusts through. Plenty of doors in the junk yard.

I'm not sure how to judge rust elsewhere though...there is a little rust on pretty much everything under the vehicle and a bit in the engine compartment. Seems par for the course...
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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I only have rust on a passenger door...dont' really care of that rusts through. Plenty of doors in the junk yard.

I'm not sure how to judge rust elsewhere though...there is a little rust on pretty much everything under the vehicle and a bit in the engine compartment. Seems par for the course...

If the hammer doesn't go through it, I consider it good enough :rofl:

You'll know when it's bad bad, it looks and crumbles differently.


Rust more bugs me aesthetically.

I stop washing vehicles when body rust starts cuz its like what's the point
:werd: would rarely clean the cobalt due to the rust.
 
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SaturdaysGS

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Jul 15, 2007
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The traction control kicking it could be rust buildup on one of the front tone rings, my buddies suburban had that setting off his traction control/abs braking under 10mph. You could see the wheel speed data go wonky at low speed. All those issues sound like common issues (minus the wiring) on a 13 year old vehicle. Maybe a little early for the water pump and alternator but... now you know they’re good.
 
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95SC

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Easy fix , works great on most GMs

Screenshot_20191017-133520_Gallery.jpg
 

pdalach

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Jul 26, 2019
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The traction control kicking it could be rust buildup on one of the front tone rings, my buddies suburban had that setting off his traction control/abs braking under 10mph. You could see the wheel speed data go wonky at low speed. All those issues sound like common issues (minus the wiring) on a 13 year old vehicle. Maybe a little early for the water pump and alternator but... now you know they’re good.

Yes...I've seen people talking about how the rust building up under the sensors can slightly lift the magnet away from the rotor, reducing the induced voltage and killing the sensor.

Also thought, as it started happening around the time of the front passenger bearing replacement, that the new sensor (I think they come together), could be MORE sensitive which could trick the traction control into thinking it was spinning faster and kicking in. That maybe would explain why ABS isn't kicking. as the tires all seem to be running just fine.
 
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