🔧 BUILD Broke EF turbo LS SC400 Build

General Information

I may have never posted on here before, but for some reason I am inspired to post my build up here. I am going to copy and paste from another site to get us all up to speed. I will try and clean up anything that was specific to the thread I am pulling from. Now that I am getting started on the main fab work I will update this thread in real time.

For anyone who doesn't want to read it all here is the short version. I bought the car on a whim in June of 2016. It is a 1993 SC400 that was from this area, and was meticulously maintained at the dealer. I was going to stay with the original 1UZ so you will see I started installing a procharger on it. I ended up selling off the stock motor, trans, ecu and harness to a local guy and got an iron gen 3 5.3 motor. I am doing a Precision LS-7675 turbo with a truck manifold based kit (more or less). It will be backed up by a TH400, and for now will use a stock ECU with HP Tuners.

Alright, time for the massive dump of info.


A couple years ago I picked up a 1993 SC400. I wasn't really looking for a car, but a late night search found this one, and I have always liked them. I decided to go down and give it a look in person, and it was even cleaner than it looked in the pics so I bought it. Here are a couple pics of when I first got it.

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I wont bore you with all of the middle shit, just hit you with the highlights.

I removed a couple tons of wiring that used to be an alarm system.
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I had the gauge cluster fixed/updated with white LED's.
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Fixed up the wiring that was kind of hacked up from the alarm. Changed the steering wheel, etc. etc.
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I then updated the climate control, and put in a nice head unit.
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Just a bunch of little changes and fixing up small things here and there. The car was extremely well maintained and really did not NEED much. My plan was always to make it fast of course, and do drag week with it. The factory 1UZ motor is a very good starting point and can make some really solid HP. The stock trans can be built to live as well. Packaging was kind of a nightmare as you can see, but other than that it was a good option.

I ended up stumbling upon a great deal on a procharger kit that was actually on an SC400 locally. It was a P1SC that came with some shitty piping, a way too small intercooler, but a Tial blow off valve that actually had the right spring it it! I started installing that setup.
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You can see one of the things that was constantly in the back of my mind for making this a drag week car. Look how complicated that engine looks! If I had a problem on the road not only would parts be an issue, but just the time to do simple repairs is a nightmare. For example the starter is under the intake manifold in the valley.

So when a local kid hurt the motor in his SC I offered mine up to get him back on the road since that is his only car. We struck a deal and I ripped that shit out the next day.
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It happened to work out that a 5.3 LS came up for sale for the same money I just sold my old motor for, so I jumped on it.
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Its update time! Nothing really exciting, but I have been slowly chipping away at things.

First up was wiring. I am planning on using the stock ECU for a little bit with HP Tuners, so I had some wiring work to do.

Harness as I got it with the motor
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Stripped of all of the brittle loom and crappy electrical tape.
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Unfortunately I ended up having to move it around after I had stripped off all of the crap, and it got pretty tangled.
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So I decided to just fully depin everything since I only need a few things from that mess.
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Here is the pile of junk I didn't need from that harness. There is actually a bit more, but that is 99.99% of it.
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And here is everything all apart, ready to be cleaned, routed, extended, and loomed.
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Next up I got some mounts for the LS from Dan Perlenfein. He even made me a custom trans mount for the TH400. These are very nice pieces, and I got them really quickly.
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Got them set in the car, fit like a glove! (BTW they are not bolted down in any of these pics, just have the nut on the other side a few turns)
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Next up I pulled the oil pan off my motor so I could drop it in and see what I am working with.
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Bit of wishful thinking seeing of the truck intake would clear the hood. It wont.
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So keep in mind that the mounts are not 100% bolted down yet. I need to get my trans from my buddy so I can get that in place before locking everything in place (just to take it all back out again). Once I have put the trans in then I can check a few things, and it can all come back out. Engine bay is going to get cleaned up, and the motor will get some TLC as well. I am still planning on trying to get it running and driving this year, but we will see if it happens. I am not one to let things be "good enough" so I may end up spending a bunch of money and time on the motor even though it will remain a stock bottom end.

Anyway I am really happy with the fitment, and how much space I have! This seems to be more room than I remember in an F-body (on the sides) even with a tubular K-Member. Should be able to get a big single in there no problem with a 4" down pipe to run out back. I am really glad I went LS!



Well time for a small update on the thread that nobody follows :) I got the trans, and a converter from my buddy a while back. Turns out the trans was shot, and needs a rebuild. That pretty much killed my plans for just getting it running this year. The good news is that I will be able to use it as a core to verify the trans mount, and hold everything in place so I can do all the fab work and wiring. I need to get un-lazy and move the car over in the garage so I can get the trans in one of these days. Its been hot as balls, and until I got my turbo there hasn't been much of a reason to bother getting it done. That excuse is out the window now though, since this came in last week

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Its nothing special, just a Precision LS 7675, which is a cast wheel journal bearing 76mm. It should be able to max out the 5.3 though, so it will do for now. This weekend (it was hot as balls) I went out to the garage for a bit to try and get some idea where I was going to place the turbo so I can start getting an idea for a materials list. First up I got the radiator sitting in place (close enough)
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These were the most obvious positions (turbo would need to be clocked differently for most) that I snapped some pics of not in any particular order.

Inside forward facing 45
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TA style
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Inside forward facing
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Outside forward facing
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That is really about all I got right now. I guess I also got the LS6 intake since my last update. That is still sitting on the truck steam ports which is why it isn't flat. I also got a set of non-EGR truck manifolds to use as the base of the turbo kit.

So right now I need to get everything mounted temporarily. That includes the trans, front accessories, exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, etc. Then I can lock down the turbo placement 100% and order material to start work. I also need to delete the ABS so I can mount the ECU over there and get started on the wiring. Well that's all for now, thanks for following along the journey of me seeing how dirty I can get my car.



Time for a small update, just because why not :)

I needed to get the trans in so I could check the fitment of the mount, as well as get everything locked into position for fabricating. Doing a trans by yourself is no fun, worse when you don't have a lift, and worse yet when you have to do some modifications for it to even fit. I ended up grabbing a trans jack from Harbor Freight to make my life a million times easier.
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The only downside to it is that it is quite a bit taller than having the trans on my regular jack, but other than that it was SO MUCH BETTER. I could slowly move it into position and make small changes to angle and overall position with ease. Not to mention how nice it is to have the trans stable as you are moving around to get a good look at everything. It turns out it only needed a little massaging to get it bolted into place. Again, that is without a shield on it (or a bell) but I was glad I didn't have to spend hours hammering overhead.

Ignore the mess, the garage is in process of getting a lot of work as well.

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Next up I wanted to see what I was working with on the exhaust manifolds.
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Driver side is actually hitting the frame, but that is fine since I always planned on v-banding them anyway.
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Plenty of space on the passenger side
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Next up was trying to get an idea of what to do for accessories. There are about a million options out there these days. I started by trying to place the stock truck pieces just to get some idea.
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Clearly those weren't going to work, but it was worth a shot. I have since figured out what I am going to do, but I will post more about that when I get all the parts. After that I reassembled the main fuse box under the hood. I need to patch where I cut for the procharger bracket, but the car is going to be outside for a bit while we finish the garage so I wanted to close off the fuses and wiring.
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That was about it. Got the car back on the ground and pushed back out of the way for now.
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Not really a crazy update, but progress none the less. While we are finishing the garage I will get the rest of the parts needed for the accessory drive setup. Once that is all in place I can start on fab work (FINALLY!), so hopefully the garage wont take too long. That's all I got for now, thanks for following along!



Nothing exciting, but parts have been coming in lately. I had to figure out and order up all of the front accessory drive components. Luckily there are a LOT of options for that kind of stuff these days. I ended up with a set of ICT billet brackets that will use a mix of F-body and Truck pieces.

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While I am at it, I got all new everything else too since most of it required f-body pieces anyway.

New tensioner
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New power steering pump pulley
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I have a new water pump, but no pic of it. The new power steering pump will be here early next week as well. I haven't ordered an alternator yet, but I will later when I get a crank pulley.

Next up is some of the fabrication pieces for the turbo kit. I have only ordered the parts and pieces for the hot side so far.

All stainless steel T4 flange, four 2.5" 90's for the crossover, and a 4" 90 for the start of the down pipe
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The stainless steel adapter from the weird 3-5/8" outlet of the turbo to 4" tubing.
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I am still waiting on the 2.5" stainless v-band assemblies and the stainless O2 bung. I will also run another section of stainless on the downpipe, then a bellows, then adapt to aluminum for the rest of the exhaust. I probably wont start on that until after I do the cold side piping, which I will hopefully be able to start directly after the hot side fabrication is done. My garage is currently being finished, so I wont be able to start work for a couple weeks still, but its great to see parts coming in! That's all I got for now, thanks for following along.


Here are the 2.5" stainless steel v-band assemblies and the stainless steel O2 bung.
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They are very nice with indexed flanges built in
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Quick release clamps, another nice touch!
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GM reman power steering pump came the other day as well
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I was a bit surprised to see that the pump did not come with the pulley bolt, or the reservoir cap. Not a big deal, just slightly annoying. That is all I have for now. The garage is taking longer than expected, but I have also been working on the wife's car anyway. Sometime next week I will probably stock up on welding supplies so I can be ready to go. I should have enough to get started, but I know I will need some soon.




On to a bit of news, my garage is 90% done!! Paint went on last night, so now I can trim it this weekend and move everything back. Here are a couple quick pics.

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For reference, here is a pic of the garage when we did our inspection (before we bought the house)
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It had a single light bulb, and the opener was plugged into an outlet next to the switch with an extension cord duct taped to the drywall.

Here is a shot after we had added the sub panel, lights, and pulled down the drywall. I then insulated everything, and put up new 5/8" drywall.
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I know not car related, but it has been a massive project that has delayed the car so I figured I would throw it in there now that I can see light at the end of that tunnel. Next update will be all car!



Well nothing too exciting to report still. I have been busy as hell finishing the garage, and getting our house ready for a party this weekend. I did however order up a bunch more material and pieces. I should have everything to build the intercooler piping except the intercooler (which is on backorder). I have all of the material to build my exhaust, but will probably need a couple v-bands so I can section it. Anyway, here are a couple pics.

Half stainless, half aluminum 4" V-band. I have two stainless steel 90's to come out of the turbo and get me to about the firewall, then it will be aluminum from there to the bumper. The other three pieces are 3" aluminum clamshell clamps for the intercooler piping.
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Detail of the 4" v-band
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And one of the clamshell clamps pulled apart.
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I also got two boxes of piping as well. Those have a single stainless steel 4" 90, ten 3" aluminum 90's, six 4" aluminum 90's, two 4" aluminum 45's, two 2' long aluminum straight sections, a 3" silicone coupler, and a 3" to 3.5" silicone adapter with T-Bolt clamps. I am really hoping to start fabrication next weekend now that I should be done with all of these other projects. My pile of parts/material is starting to take up too much space!




Finally time for a bit of an update! After busting our asses on Friday night, the garage is now 99% done. All that really means for non OCD people is that I have more than 2 outlets (a LOT more) and don't need to drag extension cords all over! Let me back up a second, I needed to get the steering rack out of the car since it was wore out and I got a replacement for it. I also wanted to take the motor out to make taking the rack out easier, and so I could do some things with it on the stand. Thursday night I got under the car and pulled the trans.

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Pretty easy to do with nothing really connected at all. Friday the car and the bike went outside while my buddy and I did the massive amount of electrical work in the garage. Saturday got mostly eaten up cleaning the garage from the previous nights thrashing. In the evening I got the car pulled back into the garage and was able to get back to work on it.

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I let the snow melt off and dry up a bit before getting to work pulling the motor. Not terribly hard (again, nothing to disconnect or move), but kind of a pain in the ass since I have to come at it from the side.
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So one of the first things I wanted to try, was see about fitting AC. I don't think I would run it this year, but if I could build with it in mind it would make things easy down the road. I grabbed a bracket and a junk compressor from a buddy so I could mock it up. He also had this manifold laying around, so I took that as well.
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It is clearly a tight fit, but I think I could make it work. It pretty much kills running a 4" downpipe on the passenger side though, so I grabbed a piece of tubing to see what it looked like on the driver side.
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Again, very tight but I should be able to make that work if I need to. I still haven't decided if I am going to mess with it or not, but its good to know about options. Next up was getting the front accessory drive all installed.

All laid out on the bench (minus the water pump since I forgot where I put it!)
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Unfortunately I have the wrong tensioner, and I clearly still need parts (balancer, thermostat housing, alternator, etc.) but I can move forward with fabrication for now. Once that was done I pulled out the old rack.
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Then I got the new poly bushing installed in the new rack
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Then got it put in for now.
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I am going to change the "EVO component", intermediate shaft, and outer tierods but its in the car so I can fabricate around it for now and keep it out of my way.

Then I got busy organizing all of my material so I could clear the space under my bench.

Pile of tubing!
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Ahhhh thats better
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At that point I was going to call it a night, but I decided to dive in and try and get something done. So I busted out the big boy grinder
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Then I hacked off the end of the driver side manifold
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Unfortunately, that was where I had to end it. Its been so long since I have welded, the batteries in the hood were dead! I am going to stop and get some on my way home today, and I am also waiting on some welding supplies. It was great to FINALLY be working on the car again! Like I said I am still unsure on the whole AC deal, but I think for now I am going to cut up that manifold and see whats up. I will also be putting the motor back in the car as soon as I get my new steering parts (that is a whole story on its own). Thats all I have for now, thanks as always for following along!




WHEW, that was a lot of info! I ended up having to pull the post from a site I had already done this same thing on. So I again apologize if it doesn't make a ton of sense since it was a catch up on a catch up. Going forward this will get updated in real time though. I have some tools and supplies coming this Friday, so hopefully I can get a good jump on some of the fab work. I guess we will see how it goes. Look for an update later in the weekend, or Monday. Hope you guys enjoy the build, I look forward to hearing from you guys.


Thanks,
Sean

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
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You have to run the proper thermostat in a mixing cooling system used on 98% of newer engines.

In the old days the thermostat would open all the hot water would leave the block and a whole bunch of cold water would rush in and caused expansion problems that would lead to scrubbing of head gaskets and Gasket failure.
Modern engines use thermal mixing system that mixes the cold water from the radiator with the hot water in the block leading into the water pump Inlet so that it is homogenized and then put into the block to prevent thermal shock issues.
Well I got schooled a bit on thermostats because of my overheating issues. My guys prefer a stat, but the part I posted a pic of works in my car too. I don't have a heater core in my car so there is no point to recirculate the fluid through the bypass. Seems to me when the stat is closed in a heater core car, the fluid circs to the heater core until the stat opens. But that coolant is at ambient temp for a little while, what maybe 10 minutes? My stat-less setup uses essentially a gutted stat with the bypass blocked off, so maybe for the first 10 min the coolant is somewhat cold.
 

Broke EF

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Thanks for the kind words, and the advice guys. I worked pretty late last night getting the car together with a headlight and fender. I took it out after to see how it did on temp, and its much better for sure. Driving down 90 going about 70-75 it very slowly climbed to about 199 before I got off. I wanted to keep going to see if it would stabilize, but it was late and I didnt want to go that far. I also thought about running the highway back the way I came, but didnt. So anyway once I was off it was holding in the mid/upper 190's. Thats a little hotter than I would like, but I can live with it. I also made a hit and I saw the temp get to 201, but it quickly came back down.

That hit was also :oops::oops::oops: I have done some beating on it, but mostly rolling into it. This was my first real hit and I was happy :D I ended up not taking it to work/the track today, but I am planning on driving it to work tomorrow. I need to get to the track soon. I don't want to speculate, but if it hooks it should do pretty good.

The only other issue I am still stumped on is a power steering leak. It kind of comes and goes which is weird. When I made the hit last night it sprayed some out of the cap, but it was still full when I got home. But at the last Sunday cars and coffee I was at, it was pissing all over from somewhere near the rack. I topped it off after that and it has remained full with only a drop or two on the garage floor. I am curious if I still had some air in the system? I ordered new power steering (specific) fittings and hose. That should hold the pressure better, just in case.

Thats all for now, stay tuned for some time slips :D
 

Mook

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Thanks for the kind words, and the advice guys. I worked pretty late last night getting the car together with a headlight and fender. I took it out after to see how it did on temp, and its much better for sure. Driving down 90 going about 70-75 it very slowly climbed to about 199 before I got off. I wanted to keep going to see if it would stabilize, but it was late and I didnt want to go that far. I also thought about running the highway back the way I came, but didnt. So anyway once I was off it was holding in the mid/upper 190's. Thats a little hotter than I would like, but I can live with it. I also made a hit and I saw the temp get to 201, but it quickly came back down.

That hit was also :oops::oops::oops: I have done some beating on it, but mostly rolling into it. This was my first real hit and I was happy :D I ended up not taking it to work/the track today, but I am planning on driving it to work tomorrow. I need to get to the track soon. I don't want to speculate, but if it hooks it should do pretty good.

The only other issue I am still stumped on is a power steering leak. It kind of comes and goes which is weird. When I made the hit last night it sprayed some out of the cap, but it was still full when I got home. But at the last Sunday cars and coffee I was at, it was pissing all over from somewhere near the rack. I topped it off after that and it has remained full with only a drop or two on the garage floor. I am curious if I still had some air in the system? I ordered new power steering (specific) fittings and hose. That should hold the pressure better, just in case.

Thats all for now, stay tuned for some time slips :D
Track day??
 

Jon01

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If it heated up a little when you made a pull (normal) then cooled back down it sounds like your cooling system is capable of controlling things.
200 wouldn't bother me as long as the system is in control.
FWIW, my C10 gets up around 210 when I take it to Mexico but cools right back down to 190 once we have returned to the US.
A monster 4 core with 2 Saturn V sized fans helped but it still warms up a little. I'm running a hood too...
 

Broke EF

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Niiice. She a little happier?

Yes, although I didnt do anything yet. I checked the raditaor in the morning and it was pretty low. I am still going to do all the stuff we talked about the other day.

If it heated up a little when you made a pull (normal) then cooled back down it sounds like your cooling system is capable of controlling things.
200 wouldn't bother me as long as the system is in control.
FWIW, my C10 gets up around 210 when I take it to Mexico but cools right back down to 190 once we have returned to the US.
A monster 4 core with 2 Saturn V sized fans helped but it still warms up a little. I'm running a hood too...

I think everything is capable, just need to tweak a couple things and it should be good.
 
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Broke EF

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Weird. I'm a fan of a recovery tank rather than overflow.

I am going to build a recovery tank up by the radiator, and use the Motion overflow out back for incase things get extra hairy.


Thats the one!

So today I tried to take it to the track and see what she could do. I threw on the motion catch can just to be track legal, and headed out. GLD is about an hour and 20 minutes from my house, and all back roads. It was a really nice drive, and the temps were doing OK. Not great, but managable for now anyway. However, my power steering started acting up again. I pulled over about 30 minutes in and had to fill the powersteering. Then I stopped again about 20 minutes away because it was smoking bad. I cant find where its leaking, but its somewhere around the rack. It doesnt seem to be a fitting, or an adapter, which would mean the rack itself. Before anyone asks, the rack is also new along with all the lines, fittings, adapters, pump, etc. As much as it sucks, I think Iam just going to give up on the powersteering. That means 0rdering up a manual rack, and a powersteering pump idler adapter. Ill need to get another belt, and ANOTHER alignment.

I am not 100% sure on that yet, but I am leaning heavily toward that. The reason I did the powersteering in the first place is because I already had the new rack, and its eaiser to get brackets for alternator, powersteering, and waterpump. Ill let you guys know what I do. I am gonna do something soon though so I can get some runs in this year.
 

Broke EF

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It finally happened, I made it to the track!! Ill do a follow up post later about the cooling and power steering, for now lets talk track! I gave the car a once over this morning, and the wife and I hopped in to hit the road. Byron is about a 45-60 minute drive from my house. It made the drive with no issues just a lot of looks :D Got the car teched in with no issues, and then just let it cool off a bit before getting in the lanes.

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Didn't even check the tire pressure, nothing.



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So you can see in the video it was pushing through the brakes which explains the terrible 60'. I got off it and was on the brakes way early as well. I am not sure, but possibly before the strpe even. I'm upset I got out of it because it would have been a 10 more than likely.

So I let the car cool off, again did nothing to it, and then went around again.



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This time the car was a nice 130 degrees when I fired it up and I was only 3 cars back. I was pumped that the car was cool because I felt it was a bit warm the first go around. Well for whatever reason they ran a bunch of other cars that just came into the lane so I just sat there getting hotter and hotter. The car was over 190 before I even atempted my burnout. Car was way down on power since it was that hot when I made the hit.

I really wanted to see a 10 today, but I kind of figured I would have the same issue of the car getting hot before my pass again. Plus I had some other stuff to take care of, so we packed it up and headed home. Car made it home with no issues at all! It was running hotter on the way home, but it was reasonable. All in all it was a good first outing. I learned a good bit about the car, and it made it with no breakage.

I already have plans whirling around to make it better. I may just show up at another track this week to see if I can do better. I need to check over some stuff, make sure I can turn it up more, and I need to get the trans brake hooked up. I cant be out here with 1.6 and 1.7 60 foot times!!!
 

Broke EF

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Yeah, the downside of the no hood or bumper is half the track staff think its a POS. The tech guys complimented me on it, but the guy in the lanes told me if anything happens to pull over. The guy at the line was looking it over like a hawk and then they said I was leaking something. It wasnt, everything was dry. Bunch of haters :p

The wind was nuts today, and it was basically straight on too. I was happy to drive it there make some passes and drive home. With how much I have done to the car that is a big win. It will be faster next time :D
 
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Broke EF

TCG Elite Member
Dec 8, 2017
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Thanks guys!

So lets back up and explain whats happened with the car since the last update. So the long story short is that the temps are still not 100% fixed., but the steering is. So lets talk cooling first. I dont feel like looking back, so I will just toch on whats happened the last few weeks.

Everyone was all like "you need a thermostat" and other things that go against the laws of thermodynamics. So I bought one. That was when I found out that my housing adapter isnt for an LS thermostat. I ended up trying a SBC thermostat, which didnt work. So then I bought the Motion thermostat housing, installed the stat and it was better-ish. That proved out the problem with the bypass. I then got one of those thermostat delete deals from Johns buddy

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So I swapped back to the original adapter, installed the thermostat delete, capped the heater lines, and vacuum filled the system after pressure testing the system and the cap.
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It was also about this time I decided I wanted to change the overflow. I bought a motion raceworks one, but I didnt really like that its vented. I wanted something to feed from the bottom so that water could go in and out of it as it heats and cools. Then I wanted to use the motion can in the back of the car as an actual overflow if anything gets crazy. I looked for something that did what I wanted, and said fuck it and made my own.

Bought some bungs and a cheap cap.
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Took some 3" aluminum tubing and cut off a straight piece, and made some round caps from some sheet I had. I just used a hole saw since I needed a larger hole in both ends it worked well.
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Welded the caps on
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Then all the bungs and the cap
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So its a 1/4" on the bottom center which is connected to the radiator, and on the top (left of pic) that will go to the back of the car into the overflow, then two 1/8" for a sight glass. The 1/4" bungs welded like shit, so its not the prettiest thing, but it works. I still need to make a mount for it as well.

Now that the cooling stuff was "done" it was time to focus on the steering. I debated "fixing" the power steering, and after finally finding someone with an LS swapped SC who actually drives it, it seemed like more work than it was worth. I had ordered up new line, and fittings before I made the call to change it. I would have needed a new pump, new rack, a restrictor, and a cooler to have it hopefully work. The sucky part about going to a manual rack is only one guy makes one that bolts in, and he is very proud of it. I bit the bullet and ordered it up, and it is a very nice unit!

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Its a flaming river rack, which is not very expensive, but he machines the inner tie rods, the steering shaft stub, makes a steering shaft, and mounts.

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I had a bit of a snag in that my motor mounts use the rack mounting bolts, but it wasnt too bad to install.
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The easy part was suposed to be deleting the pump. I orderd up an ICT bracket that delets the stock f-body pump. I was hoping I could use the existing bracket to act as a spacer for it since I have a truck balancer. No dice on that. The bracket has countersunk holes where the new one bolts up
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Quick call to my buddy, and he whipped up some new spacers for me. He actually was going to make them out of titanium, but was having a hard time machining the longer holes. Anyway, he got them sent over super quick, and it bolted up perfect. Then I tried to get a belt for it. I went to 4 parts stores, 10 belts, and a lot of frustration later I gave up. I found that they actually make a tensioner setup for my exact deal with no power steering, so I ordered that up! Of course it isnt that easy, they sent me the worng stuff and I had to order it again. I fianlly got the right part though.

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First belt went right on that time! I like this set up better than the other tensioner too. I think I have it a bit tight though, I am getting a little bit of a squeak.

After all that I installed my first ever set of wheel spacers
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Gives me WAY more angle before the passenger tire hits the hot side
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I dont quite think I can get lock to lock still, but its very close now. I will be putting some welds on it at some point which will clear no problem, but this works for now.

And that prety much brings us all up to speed. I need to get unlazy tomorow and hook up the trans brake, and probably the boost controller. I also need to pull the plugs and look everything over. I am planning on going up to GLD Thursday to hopefully get some better runs in.
 

Broke EF

TCG Elite Member
Dec 8, 2017
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4,345
The sticks
I checked the plugs, and found one was cracked. New plugs gapped and installed, and then fired up to make sure its good. I am ready to go as far as I can tell. I wish I had the time this week to get the trans brake, boost controller, and 2 step hooked up, but work has been nuts and I just didnt have the time.
 

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