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BUILD Broke EF turbo LS SC400 Build
- Thread starter Broke EF
- Start date
I wish I was thoughJesus you are NOT fucking around
It'll be bad ass when its all back together, but they way this all went down has been much more stressful than enjoyable. I wanted to do mainly wiring over the winter, MAYBE suspension, spend like 2k max. I clearly blew that out of the water on just the engine. I still have a lot more to do on the car besides the engine and trans. Oh well, that's cars for ya! I'm glad I was in a position to be able to keep everything going and have a pretty nice engine at the end so I cant complain too much.
Today was the day to start engine assembly! I am just going to basically photo dump since itll be a video soon anyway.
Everything went really smooth other than my own stupidity a couple times. He had the rings marked for which cylinder, and when I went to go install number 6 I realized that the rings were on an even piston (valve relief at the bottom). So then I looked and noticed number 8 was the same, so techincally 4 were wrong. Then after I swapped the rings around and got one side all in I finally noticed that the caps and rods were matched. I thought they would be, but I was looking earlier and didnt notice anything. The caps were not on the rods so I figured maybe it doesnt matter since they are not a cracked rod. So I had to take them apart and swap em around. But now everything is in the proper locations and its all torqued down to spec, and turns over silky smooth!
Tomorrow I am gonna do the cam, lifters, and get the heads on. I want to measure for pushrods so I can get them ordered up this week and button this thing up so I can get it back in the car ASAP.
Everything went really smooth other than my own stupidity a couple times. He had the rings marked for which cylinder, and when I went to go install number 6 I realized that the rings were on an even piston (valve relief at the bottom). So then I looked and noticed number 8 was the same, so techincally 4 were wrong. Then after I swapped the rings around and got one side all in I finally noticed that the caps and rods were matched. I thought they would be, but I was looking earlier and didnt notice anything. The caps were not on the rods so I figured maybe it doesnt matter since they are not a cracked rod. So I had to take them apart and swap em around. But now everything is in the proper locations and its all torqued down to spec, and turns over silky smooth!
Tomorrow I am gonna do the cam, lifters, and get the heads on. I want to measure for pushrods so I can get them ordered up this week and button this thing up so I can get it back in the car ASAP.
Alright, got her mostlty all buttoned up today.
Gotta say, this Summit Pro LS cam looks nice as fuck. Not that it means anything, but still better than it looking like shit I guess.
Cam in, new retention plate (with new hardware) "old" timng set back on with the "old" ARP bolts. Its lined up dot to dot, but it moved a bit before the pic.
After I did this I thought to myself, dont I have a timing chain guide... And it turns out I did!
I bought it new when I put the other engine together but the spacing of the bolts was different so I couldnt use it. But it works on this one so why the hell not!
New lifters in new trays, with new bolts
New APR headstuds laid out with the BTR small bore MLS head gaskets.
Head studs intsalled
Heads on!
And just for shits and giggles I threw on the valley plate and valve covers
Took a closer pic of the bottom end for the heck of it
So I need to order new bolts for the oil pump since I have a problem LOL. I also started to measure for push rods today, and wasnt really confident in the numbers I was getting. I am going grab a bigger caliper from work tomorrow to double check my math on the length checker. I also need to better verify the preload on the LS7 lifters.
Once I get the bolts I can button up the botton up the bottom so it stops leaking all over my garage. I dont think it will be going back in the car next weekend, but soon, very soon.
Gotta say, this Summit Pro LS cam looks nice as fuck. Not that it means anything, but still better than it looking like shit I guess.
Cam in, new retention plate (with new hardware) "old" timng set back on with the "old" ARP bolts. Its lined up dot to dot, but it moved a bit before the pic.
After I did this I thought to myself, dont I have a timing chain guide... And it turns out I did!
I bought it new when I put the other engine together but the spacing of the bolts was different so I couldnt use it. But it works on this one so why the hell not!
New lifters in new trays, with new bolts
New APR headstuds laid out with the BTR small bore MLS head gaskets.
Head studs intsalled
Heads on!
And just for shits and giggles I threw on the valley plate and valve covers
Took a closer pic of the bottom end for the heck of it
So I need to order new bolts for the oil pump since I have a problem LOL. I also started to measure for push rods today, and wasnt really confident in the numbers I was getting. I am going grab a bigger caliper from work tomorrow to double check my math on the length checker. I also need to better verify the preload on the LS7 lifters.
Once I get the bolts I can button up the botton up the bottom so it stops leaking all over my garage. I dont think it will be going back in the car next weekend, but soon, very soon.
I do it just for you!I love the way you present everything in these pics
Its not billet, but yeah I have had it for a long time now. This stand does a terrible job at holding an LS, plus this allows it to be on the stand with the flex plate. Now I just need that new Harbor Freight stand to really complete the "race car" look.
Small update since I was pretty busy this weekend. First up, during the week I got a few items.
Just some breakin oil, a turbo blanket (finally) and some pushrods. After checking and checking again, and measuring a few differen ways, and thinking about it and checking again.... I surpisingly came up with needing 7.400" pushrods. I am confident in the number, just seems really odd to me since the old motor (same heads that were surfaced), same lifters, etc needed 7.350 and this block was decked. I guess the cam base circle is pretty different between the cams. Who knows for sure, but I guess I'll find out.
Anyway, I wanted to get the engine buttoned up so I started with the windage tray and pickup. I had to drill some of the holes in the windage tray to clear the ARP studs. I also had a bit of trouble with the pickup and the pump. I noticed when I took the old engine apart that the oring was not sitting flat. Well when I put it all together this time I noticed it was doing the same thing. So after messing with it a while I got it how it should be. Basically the pickup tube is probably slightly too long. I didnt put too much time into it because I want to change both covers, and the pan, pickup, and windage tray soonish.
I then cleaned and installed the front cover. No pics of that for some reason. The only annoying thing there is I have the motion timing pointer. I had it powder coated at my work recently, and there are two spacers for it. I either never brought them in, or we lost them somewhere along the line. I ended up digging through a box of shit and finding the other two ARP bolts for the cover so its on line normal without the pointer for now.
Then I cleaned up the rear cover and installed that. The front and rear covers torque to 18 ft/lbs, and the front was no issue. The rear on the other hand, first bolt stripped. I got the next 2 I think then another was not good feeling. Also, it onlt got to around 15 ft/lbs before it let go, so not a lot of torque at all. Most of them did not feel great, so I went 15 on the rest and hopefully thats fine. Not really happy about that at all though. Before anyone asks, they are ARP bolts as well, and were the same ones with the same cover and gasket I had on the old engine.
Once that was done, and I had decided fuck it, I moved on to the flex plate so I could get it back on the stand. This was pretty straight forward and those ARP bolts torqued up just fine
Today I got the pan on. This ALSO torques to 18 ft/lbs and they were not great feeling again. I did them all to 15 or 16 and will just hope for the best. Again, the same APR bolts, pan and gasket from the old engine. I point this out because my only thought is that there isnt enough thread engagement, but I dont actually think thats the problem.
I pretty much think that this engine was fuckng trashed before I got it for too much money. There was a lot of evidence of it being apart multiple times (heads off for sure). I would not be suprise if they rear cover and pan had been off and they ugga duggaed it all back together and fucked up the holes. Really upsetting after all the work I have into this block, but like I siad hopefully its sealed up fine and I wont have issues.
Moving on to better things, I also picked up some new (to me) rears.
They are 15x8 Billet Specialties Street Lites with 5.5" back spacing. I do want to run a 275/60 on the car, but I originally wanted a 15x10 and a different offset. Here they are on the car.
I am unsure yet on the fitmet. Ill clearly need to roll the the lip flat, and seems like probably also strech it some. But before that I need to change the rear brakes, and also the wheel studs. They are just a wee bit beffier than the old setup though
Thats all for now. I need to get some hardware for the damper and I can get that back on. I also need some solution for my ultrasonic so I can clean up the rockers before I finish that all up. Should start coming together pretty quick now. I want to get it wrapped up and testing soon so I can be good and ready for June
Just some breakin oil, a turbo blanket (finally) and some pushrods. After checking and checking again, and measuring a few differen ways, and thinking about it and checking again.... I surpisingly came up with needing 7.400" pushrods. I am confident in the number, just seems really odd to me since the old motor (same heads that were surfaced), same lifters, etc needed 7.350 and this block was decked. I guess the cam base circle is pretty different between the cams. Who knows for sure, but I guess I'll find out.
Anyway, I wanted to get the engine buttoned up so I started with the windage tray and pickup. I had to drill some of the holes in the windage tray to clear the ARP studs. I also had a bit of trouble with the pickup and the pump. I noticed when I took the old engine apart that the oring was not sitting flat. Well when I put it all together this time I noticed it was doing the same thing. So after messing with it a while I got it how it should be. Basically the pickup tube is probably slightly too long. I didnt put too much time into it because I want to change both covers, and the pan, pickup, and windage tray soonish.
I then cleaned and installed the front cover. No pics of that for some reason. The only annoying thing there is I have the motion timing pointer. I had it powder coated at my work recently, and there are two spacers for it. I either never brought them in, or we lost them somewhere along the line. I ended up digging through a box of shit and finding the other two ARP bolts for the cover so its on line normal without the pointer for now.
Then I cleaned up the rear cover and installed that. The front and rear covers torque to 18 ft/lbs, and the front was no issue. The rear on the other hand, first bolt stripped. I got the next 2 I think then another was not good feeling. Also, it onlt got to around 15 ft/lbs before it let go, so not a lot of torque at all. Most of them did not feel great, so I went 15 on the rest and hopefully thats fine. Not really happy about that at all though. Before anyone asks, they are ARP bolts as well, and were the same ones with the same cover and gasket I had on the old engine.
Once that was done, and I had decided fuck it, I moved on to the flex plate so I could get it back on the stand. This was pretty straight forward and those ARP bolts torqued up just fine
Today I got the pan on. This ALSO torques to 18 ft/lbs and they were not great feeling again. I did them all to 15 or 16 and will just hope for the best. Again, the same APR bolts, pan and gasket from the old engine. I point this out because my only thought is that there isnt enough thread engagement, but I dont actually think thats the problem.
I pretty much think that this engine was fuckng trashed before I got it for too much money. There was a lot of evidence of it being apart multiple times (heads off for sure). I would not be suprise if they rear cover and pan had been off and they ugga duggaed it all back together and fucked up the holes. Really upsetting after all the work I have into this block, but like I siad hopefully its sealed up fine and I wont have issues.
Moving on to better things, I also picked up some new (to me) rears.
They are 15x8 Billet Specialties Street Lites with 5.5" back spacing. I do want to run a 275/60 on the car, but I originally wanted a 15x10 and a different offset. Here they are on the car.
I am unsure yet on the fitmet. Ill clearly need to roll the the lip flat, and seems like probably also strech it some. But before that I need to change the rear brakes, and also the wheel studs. They are just a wee bit beffier than the old setup though
Thats all for now. I need to get some hardware for the damper and I can get that back on. I also need some solution for my ultrasonic so I can clean up the rockers before I finish that all up. Should start coming together pretty quick now. I want to get it wrapped up and testing soon so I can be good and ready for June
Time for another boring update.
I thought I fucked up my damper when I pulled it, but it was really just lock tite in the threads. Ran a tap through all the holes, and she was good to go!
I love new hardwarwe day!! I got a bunch of miscelanious stuff, and also the bolts neded for the AC pulley on the damper since those were actually fucked.
Cleaned up the rockers. Some of them were pretty bad actually. But a few runs though the ultrasonic and they were all moving freely and ready to go.
While those were running I stripped the powder coat off the top theads of my expansion tank. I dont know why they didnt make em, but I cant complain for free.
One side in and torqued
And the other
And all together!
I thought I fucked up my damper when I pulled it, but it was really just lock tite in the threads. Ran a tap through all the holes, and she was good to go!
I love new hardwarwe day!! I got a bunch of miscelanious stuff, and also the bolts neded for the AC pulley on the damper since those were actually fucked.
Cleaned up the rockers. Some of them were pretty bad actually. But a few runs though the ultrasonic and they were all moving freely and ready to go.
While those were running I stripped the powder coat off the top theads of my expansion tank. I dont know why they didnt make em, but I cant complain for free.
One side in and torqued
And the other
And all together!
Thanks! Its looking half decent. I just hope it runs good. I am about to start giving less of a shit just to get it done. I want to do quite a bit more, but I may just kind of slap it together for Sick Summer and then take it apart after.Oh man thats lookin great
It was a super lazy weekend, so I kind of just putzed around with the car. I probably should have gotten more done, but the weather was kinda shitty so I didnt want to have the car half in and half out to put the engine back in and that is my next big step.
Got some parts the other day. Starting with new longer wheel studs for the back of the car, and also the correct lug nuts for the wheels out back.
I also got the window net mount that
Boostie recomended. I would have actually installed this, but I forgot I am out of gas in the TIG.
I got around to reinstalling my seat. Looks so good without the cover!
But it needs the cover to be ussable, so on it goes. I am going to have to replace it sooner than later though!
Got the expansion tank put back together with some new fittings, and installed back in the car
Since I got the correct lug nuts for the rear, I wanted to install it and see how everything fits.
Turns out I 100% do need to change the brakes. I had thought they would clear when it wasnt fully bolted on before. I could do the f-body method of grinding them since it is very close to clearing, but I wont.
Then I decided to install the shoulder straps on the passenger side. Its actually a 5 point, but I am not going to bother with the 5th point for now. I am likely going to change that to another kirkey soonish, swap my harness over there and replace mine since its out of spec next summer.
Quick shot of the interior before I did more BS
Next up I wanted to get the ECU off the floor to give the passenger a bit more leg room, and generally just to keep it out of the way. I bought a mount from Motion and put it up on the dash bar.
Then I dedided to get to work fitting and installing the center console trim piece. I have had this around for years, but havent wanted to cut it for the shifter. First step was to install the titanium spacers my buddy Lou made for the shifter. Dont ask me why he made them out of titanium, I told him I needed some spacers, gave him the specs and thats what he sent over. Once they were in I started slowly trimming out the hole for the shifter. Its not perfect, but its good enough, at least for now.
I am going to re-powder coat it so ignore the sanding marks. I will also install some USB/Power plugs later when I go to do the final install. That hole in the top left was for the hazard switch, which I no longer have.
The only other thing I did was take apart the steering wheel extension so I could also powder coat that along with the push bar.
Well thats all, like I said I was super lazy this weekend. I have a feeling I will have some extra time for the car soon, but regardless I need to really get moving on it. I do have a couple things I want to get done before I get the engine and trans back in. Some of it would be a lot easier with the car on the lift. I guess we will see how I end up attacking those jobs as the clock keeps ticking!
Got some parts the other day. Starting with new longer wheel studs for the back of the car, and also the correct lug nuts for the wheels out back.
I also got the window net mount that
Boostie recomended. I would have actually installed this, but I forgot I am out of gas in the TIG.
I got around to reinstalling my seat. Looks so good without the cover!
But it needs the cover to be ussable, so on it goes. I am going to have to replace it sooner than later though!
Got the expansion tank put back together with some new fittings, and installed back in the car
Since I got the correct lug nuts for the rear, I wanted to install it and see how everything fits.
Turns out I 100% do need to change the brakes. I had thought they would clear when it wasnt fully bolted on before. I could do the f-body method of grinding them since it is very close to clearing, but I wont.
Then I decided to install the shoulder straps on the passenger side. Its actually a 5 point, but I am not going to bother with the 5th point for now. I am likely going to change that to another kirkey soonish, swap my harness over there and replace mine since its out of spec next summer.
Quick shot of the interior before I did more BS
Next up I wanted to get the ECU off the floor to give the passenger a bit more leg room, and generally just to keep it out of the way. I bought a mount from Motion and put it up on the dash bar.
Then I dedided to get to work fitting and installing the center console trim piece. I have had this around for years, but havent wanted to cut it for the shifter. First step was to install the titanium spacers my buddy Lou made for the shifter. Dont ask me why he made them out of titanium, I told him I needed some spacers, gave him the specs and thats what he sent over. Once they were in I started slowly trimming out the hole for the shifter. Its not perfect, but its good enough, at least for now.
I am going to re-powder coat it so ignore the sanding marks. I will also install some USB/Power plugs later when I go to do the final install. That hole in the top left was for the hazard switch, which I no longer have.
The only other thing I did was take apart the steering wheel extension so I could also powder coat that along with the push bar.
Well thats all, like I said I was super lazy this weekend. I have a feeling I will have some extra time for the car soon, but regardless I need to really get moving on it. I do have a couple things I want to get done before I get the engine and trans back in. Some of it would be a lot easier with the car on the lift. I guess we will see how I end up attacking those jobs as the clock keeps ticking!
Nah, I should have done a bunch more. I was really not motivated though, not sure if its the weather or what. I still have some little things to get done before it is ready to go. I am also struggling with NOT diving into fixing/changing things that I don't like but work. Mainly wiring stuff from last years rush. I am even debating changing out the main supply line for the boost controller. I will re-route it for sure, but I don't think I am going to change the whole line. I will bring it with on Sick Summer just in case.
The car will be more finished than it has been, but still not really up to par for what I want. I am already thinking about after sick summer taking it completely down to a bare shell and doing everything.... Who knows
The car will be more finished than it has been, but still not really up to par for what I want. I am already thinking about after sick summer taking it completely down to a bare shell and doing everything.... Who knows
Well I kinda sorta worked on the car a bit today. I am waiting to start my new job, and said fuck it to the old one, so I have some time to get shit done. Unfortunately I am waiting on a bunch of small shit that should be here tomorrow. So today I kinda just messed around and cleaned up a little.
Here was the start of the day
I put the fans back on the shroud and wanted to see how bad the burned up wiring was. Turns out it was pretty bad LOL
I also pulled off the front end and the intercooler
Last year I lowered the car onto a stool and bent the fuck out of the intercooler. So since all the piping was off, and the front end I figured nows a good time to see how bad they are and probably fix em.
I guess it was pretty bad for these as well! I thought it only bent the one, and I thought I had gotten it back pretty close. I will probably just bend these back and call it good for now.
Tomorrow should be a better update. I have a bunch of little things to fix up and get done before I can stab the engine back in. I am hoping to fire it up this weekend, and I would LOVE to get some testing in before I start the new job.
Here was the start of the day
I put the fans back on the shroud and wanted to see how bad the burned up wiring was. Turns out it was pretty bad LOL
I also pulled off the front end and the intercooler
Last year I lowered the car onto a stool and bent the fuck out of the intercooler. So since all the piping was off, and the front end I figured nows a good time to see how bad they are and probably fix em.
I guess it was pretty bad for these as well! I thought it only bent the one, and I thought I had gotten it back pretty close. I will probably just bend these back and call it good for now.
Tomorrow should be a better update. I have a bunch of little things to fix up and get done before I can stab the engine back in. I am hoping to fire it up this weekend, and I would LOVE to get some testing in before I start the new job.
Another day of kinda sorta lazily making some progress. Started off with getting some parts, hardware, oil etc. The only pic worthy one was this DEI thermal barrier.
Then I decided a good way to waste time was to re-asseble my push bar. I know I am going to need it soon so why not, plus this should take like 20 seconds right. RIGHT. Well they basically powdercoated the threads.
I shouldnt be suprised, I had to drill every hole, and chase all the other threads from everything I had done at my old work.. Anyway, my buddy gave me a shit ton of taps and I had the correct size in there.
And now all stainless hardware. Jam nut is black coated stainless.
The whole deal looks pretty decent now Well the powder on the bar is kinda shit, but close enough.
Next up came painting the radiator and the intercooler. I have wanted to do this since the start, but then I just kinda got it together and then never wanted to take it apart to paint it. Today was the day though!
Cleaned up
First coat
While everything was already apart I figured I may as well put the highbeams back in.
But of course that meant actually taking it MORE apart
And done!
Except that I need to take it all back off to get the intercooler back in. That is gonna wait until tomorrow now
I did also fix the intercooler mounts though!
Tomorrow I will get the intercooler back in, and start the intercooler piping. The main thing I need to get done is the thermal barrier in the trans tunnel. Then I can start getting the engine and trans back in for good. I still want to fire the car up this weekend, and text next week, so TICK TOCK!!!
Then I decided a good way to waste time was to re-asseble my push bar. I know I am going to need it soon so why not, plus this should take like 20 seconds right. RIGHT. Well they basically powdercoated the threads.
I shouldnt be suprised, I had to drill every hole, and chase all the other threads from everything I had done at my old work.. Anyway, my buddy gave me a shit ton of taps and I had the correct size in there.
And now all stainless hardware. Jam nut is black coated stainless.
The whole deal looks pretty decent now
Well the powder on the bar is kinda shit, but close enough.
Next up came painting the radiator and the intercooler. I have wanted to do this since the start, but then I just kinda got it together and then never wanted to take it apart to paint it. Today was the day though!
Cleaned up
First coat
While everything was already apart I figured I may as well put the highbeams back in.
But of course that meant actually taking it MORE apart
And done!
Except that I need to take it all back off to get the intercooler back in. That is gonna wait until tomorrow now
I did also fix the intercooler mounts though!
Tomorrow I will get the intercooler back in, and start the intercooler piping. The main thing I need to get done is the thermal barrier in the trans tunnel. Then I can start getting the engine and trans back in for good. I still want to fire the car up this weekend, and text next week, so TICK TOCK!!!
Yeah,... and what keeps fucking with me is what caused it? Was it too much amp draw, was it ambient heat, was it a combination of both? I am going to run a larger power wire, and to a different loaction, but still just want to know.holy shit that wiring