Drag to reposition cover

BADAZZTEALCOBRA's 1993 Foxbody Cobra build - Coyote/Tremec incoming - 22 years in the making.


cap42

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To remove the old ones you just cut the welds and grind back to the original metal.

For both the MM and DSE subframes you need the car sitting on all 4 wheels at it's ride height so you will need the motor/trans in the car. The DSE through the floors you don't need anything special, you mock up the frame rail. Mark where the sections come up through the floor and cut inside those marks, grind away to get a really tight fit for welding and then burn them in. The only tough part is the floors are thinner metal than the subframe so you need a good welder.

Have you looked to see how much space this will eat up on your floorpans? From what I have seen on other cars these come up through the floor a considerable amount. To the point where your carpeting may not fit without modifications.
 
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I just heard back from the main shop that Detroit Speed recommended and Im waiting to get a quote from them as well. I may have to wait on them since I might need the engine and trans in the car as well but will see what they say.

cap42 cap42 I started a thread on it on here asking for thoughts but didnt get anywhere really.

Here is what it looks like installed in DSE's install video:
detroit speed.png


The part that seems to stick up the worst is underneath the seat. I am assuming that on the rest of the areas that I will have to cut the mass back jute out of the new carpet to make room for the connectors that are popping up.

Im hoping that between that and the sound deadener that the bump wouldnt be noticeable or only slightly noticeable?

The upside is that I wont need to add the torque box reinforcements either because they will be part of the build.

I guess it comes down to cost. If its like a thousand dollars more to install these over the MM versions, I'll likely stay with the MM versions.
 
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BADAZZTEALCOBRA

BADAZZTEALCOBRA

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I wonder if they might be able to get the new parts in on the car while the old subframes are still welded in so they chassis wouldnt flex or change since the old ones were welded in at fighting weight, then they could cut out the old ones? :dunno:

We shall see what they say.

This might all be a discussion for another day if its crazy expensive.
 
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Probably a bit much but ordered wire so when I rewire all the components into the Dakota Digital I wanted to retain the factory colors so at the Dakota Digital Box everything will be easily distinguishable along with the items needed to hook up the control pack....
wireforswap.jpg


Still waiting on a bunch of other items to get here so kind of in a holding pattern at the moment.
 

DEEZUZ

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Did you get obd piggy back thing?
 

greasy

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I just heard back from the main shop that Detroit Speed recommended and Im waiting to get a quote from them as well. I may have to wait on them since I might need the engine and trans in the car as well but will see what they say.

cap42 cap42 I started a thread on it on here asking for thoughts but didnt get anywhere really.

Here is what it looks like installed in DSE's install video:
View attachment 61073

The part that seems to stick up the worst is underneath the seat. I am assuming that on the rest of the areas that I will have to cut the mass back jute out of the new carpet to make room for the connectors that are popping up.

Im hoping that between that and the sound deadener that the bump wouldnt be noticeable or only slightly noticeable?

The upside is that I wont need to add the torque box reinforcements either because they will be part of the build.

I guess it comes down to cost. If its like a thousand dollars more to install these over the MM versions, I'll likely stay with the MM versions.
Who is the shop that Detroit Speed recommends?
 

boostedguy05

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I wonder if they might be able to get the new parts in on the car while the old subframes are still welded in so they chassis wouldnt flex or change since the old ones were welded in at fighting weight, then they could cut out the old ones? :dunno:

We shall see what they say.

This might all be a discussion for another day if its crazy expensive.
*old fighting weight* that was done with the OG 5.0 yes. would the new 5.0 and all your new suspension stuff make a difference?
 
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Did you get obd piggy back thing?
Not yet, I have to see what gauges are controlled via the OBD port, and which one's I will still have to run wires to first.

The wires now are mostly for high like turn signals, hi-beams, etc. and then the wires to hook up the control pack to the ignition switch.
 
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Who is the shop that Detroit Speed recommends?
Frame Up Wheel Works in Beach Park IL.....

Should have a quote this week from them, but between whatever the cost that will be plus getting the car towed basically up to Wisconsin Im guessing itll be outta my price point and I'll wait to have the MM connectors installed once shit is back in the car.

Been getting nickled and dimed on just about everything and funds are getting tight in a hurry.
 
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*old fighting weight* that was done with the OG 5.0 yes. would the new 5.0 and all your new suspension stuff make a difference?
I'm guessing it will be slightly lighter but not enough to make that much of a difference. The engine will be noticeably lighter, but the transmission will be noticeably heavier.

Pretty close to a wash Im guessing but I did shed some weight with the k-member, a-arms, etc.
 
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Figure while I am waiting for parts I can keep attempting to clean the block and components to remove the oxidation. I popped off the oil filter adapter as a test piece to see what I could do.....

Taped off the parts I didnt want to get hit with a walnut blaster attempt:
IMG_9095.jpg


After walnut blasting:
IMG_9097.jpg


Tried a scotchbrite pad after that:
IMG_9099.jpg


Thinking I might have to step it up to an aluminum brightener, but I'm worried that it might be too acidic and eat away at stuff too much? :dunno:

Might try a wire wheel made of aluminum or brass or something to see if that'll clean it up easier as well? :dunno:

Figure this is a good test piece though because I can buy a new one easily.

Otherwise this is going to drive me nuts:
IMG_9101.jpg
 

DEEZUZ

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I don't even know what went down. But this is why I wasn't pulling a God damn thing off my car until I had every single nut and bolt ready to go in.
 
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BADAZZTEALCOBRA

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Honestly, I think it might have been 1997... Ill have to look.

I thought it was a shot at how long its been parked, my bad boys. :bowrofl:
 

greasy

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Figure while I am waiting for parts I can keep attempting to clean the block and components to remove the oxidation. I popped off the oil filter adapter as a test piece to see what I could do.....

Taped off the parts I didnt want to get hit with a walnut blaster attempt:
View attachment 61820

After walnut blasting:
View attachment 61821

Tried a scotchbrite pad after that:
View attachment 61822

Thinking I might have to step it up to an aluminum brightener, but I'm worried that it might be too acidic and eat away at stuff too much? :dunno:

Might try a wire wheel made of aluminum or brass or something to see if that'll clean it up easier as well? :dunno:

Figure this is a good test piece though because I can buy a new one easily.

Otherwise this is going to drive me nuts:
View attachment 61823
Cleaning aluminum is a pain the ass! From everything I am reading you want to:

1: Degrease the parts before you start (Use something like Simple Green)

2. Then you'll want to use some type of acid based cleaner working it in with a nylon scrub brush
https://www.detailing.com/store/3d-acid-mag-wire-wheel-cleaner-1-gal.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVmHy2h0R2sWP35kXnYBckTVI84BXnD5TzXwi-NLM704dpogvAKR1rUaAhEBEALw_wcB

3. Once it is dry I would try the brass wire wheel on a cordless drill.
 
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BADAZZTEALCOBRA

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Cleaning aluminum is a pain the ass! From everything I am reading you want to:

1: Degrease the parts before you start (Use something like Simple Green)

2. Then you'll want to use some type of acid based cleaner working it in with a nylon scrub brush
https://www.detailing.com/store/3d-acid-mag-wire-wheel-cleaner-1-gal.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVmHy2h0R2sWP35kXnYBckTVI84BXnD5TzXwi-NLM704dpogvAKR1rUaAhEBEALw_wcB

3. Once it is dry I would try the brass wire wheel on a cordless drill.
I tried a brass wire brush today, taking forever by hand but is making a noticeable difference so I'll order a few different ones to work in a drill and I think that'll solve it.

I only did the passenger side head and the valley of the motor as I could, ill definitely need some different styles of brass brush to get into the crevices, but I think its a good difference and one I'll be able to live with.

IMG_9116.jpg
 

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