🔧 BUILD Upside-down M90 GTP build thread

[GTPpower]

What size inlet and outlet did you go with?

 

[1quick]

What size inlet and outlet did you go with?

I have 3/4 my intercooler core has 3/4" inlet and outlet

 

[GTPpower]

Ok, I think I will order one of those with 1.25" fittings. Thanks for posting that.


I remembered my other question. Since the battery is relocated to the trunk, I need to add a shutoff that kills the car when it's activated for the track. If it just kills the battery, the car will stay running. From what I can find, I need a switch that I can hook up the alternator to as well.

Does anyone know what the field wire is they are referring to?

 

[GTPpower]

Mega updates on the way. Track day is Saturday. I have a lot left to do, and I'm not sure I can do it all. I need to get the car running tomorrow so I can get an appointment for alignment on Friday.

First up, I bought this ice box on eBay. It's 5 gallons and has 1.25" inlets and outlets













It's got a bracket to mount a rule pump in the future if I want.

 

[SleeperLS]

That looks pretty legit

 

[GTPpower]

The Jabsco pump came in. It has 3/4" inlet/outlet. We'll see how it does.











I also got the driver's side seat in and mounted.

 

[GTPpower]

Cheesy selfie....my apologies.





I noticed the rear lower control arms were bent on one side. Luckily, they are stupid cheap on rockauto.

 

[GTPpower]

Got everything mounted in the trunk.



I got the battery disconnect installed.







I ran wiring for the fuel pump, intercooler pump, and line lock to this switch panel. I have the relay box in the back seat area. It all works.




Also put in a new radiator.

 

[GTPpower]

And here's the part that worried me the most about this project. I had no idea what shape the car's electrical system was in. So I took the jump the other night and hooked 12v to the battery terminals.



The taillights came on, and the car didn't burn down. Everything appears to work.




Also, I connected the car to Hp tuners and was able to read the file on the pcm. The scanner looks to be reading live data perfectly fine as well.

 

[1quick]

wait so you dont have a motor or trans in the car yet and your going to the track saturday? I wish you luck

 

[GTPpower]

Yeah, it's going to take lots of luck to get it done.

 

[10sec]

Nice update, hopefully you can get it all together for some track time.

 

[GTPpower]

I think I can have it running, but probably not track ready. So, might have to wait a couple weeks for the track. We'll see though.

 

[GTPpower]

No track today. Going to go in 2 weeks instead.

 

[Ron Vogel]

You may want to throttle that pump. You only want enough flow to extract the heat from the IC. You don’t want to flow fast enough to return heat to the IC, it’ll minimize how much heat it will pull out.

When I was experimenting with pumps, I had thermistors on the inlet and outlet to optimize it. I’ll see if I can find a link to how I rigged it up, was very cheap

Boom: https://www.ebay.com/p/Mini-F-Digit...MI8-LbkcjR5AIVAr7ACh2xwwCHEAQYCiABEgJeOPD_BwE

 

[GTPpower]

Those are nice. I was looking for something I could log with hpt, but these might be a nice temporary solution.

Although, I'm not confident that a 12v pump exists that flows anywhere close to too much.

 

[GTPpower]

Engine and transmission are in the car. I'm in the process of hooking everything up. I'm having some connectivity problems with hpt. Anyone know how the pcm is grounded?

 

[RICH17]

Grounded through the harness on both connectors IIRC.

Build looks great dude. I wouldve left the water tank up front. Leave the weight over the front axle.

 

[GTPpower]

I think I figured it out. It looks like the grounds that connect to the stud on the transmission. Or at least that was my problem. I put a new connector on one, cleaned the other, and it appears to have taken care of my issue.

Also, I'm setting this up to run a 99+ TB, which I thought I had about eight of them sitting in storage. I guess I gave them all away, so I'm trying to find one locally. I have a 97, but not the maf for that.

And thanks Rich. I would have left the tank in the front, but I really don't want it to heat soak from the engine. If I need to, I'll eventually add more weight to the front in the correct area, but I doubt I'll need that until it's turbo'd.

 

[1quick]

You may want to throttle that pump. You only want enough flow to extract the heat from the IC. You don’t want to flow fast enough to return heat to the IC, it’ll minimize how much heat it will pull out.

When I was experimenting with pumps, I had thermistors on the inlet and outlet to optimize it. I’ll see if I can find a link to how I rigged it up, was very cheap

Boom: https://www.ebay.com/p/Mini-F-Digit...MI8-LbkcjR5AIVAr7ACh2xwwCHEAQYCiABEgJeOPD_BwE

If he’s using ice in the ice box it shouldn’t matter how fast it’s flowing, using the front heat exchanger I could see the flow messing up the cooling if it’s moving water too fast

 

[GTPpower]

Getting close. Going to get it running tomorrow, aligned and tuned on Friday, then to the track on Saturday.




I put the gauges in from my old car.




Also, I was flushing fuel lines today and discovered that the -8 AN return line has a bunch of holes in it. Soaked my garage floor with e85. So I need to head to Lincoln in the morning and get a new line.

 

[TurboTJ]

Need more cheesy selfies to add to build thread, kthnx!
Good to see you gettin close to done Nick!

 

[GTPpower]

I took another one today....

 

[GTPpower]

The car is running, but not well. It's been a struggle here.

I filled all fluids Thursday night to get it ready to run 1st thing Friday. When I come outside 1st thing in the morning, there is a puddle of antifreeze under the car. All the hoses look to be sealing fine. After wasting a bunch of time on this, I eventually found a tiny hairline crack in the water pump housing. It's such a small crack, I can't capture it on camera. It sure makes a mess though. So I went and got a new water pump.




My next problem, the car wouldn't crank. After some diagnosis, the trigger wire to the starter was not seeing 12v. Then after lots of searching I found that the wire goes from the ignition switch to the range switch on the transmission, and then to the starter. I had 12v at the range switch, but not past it. I adjusted the "clocking" of the switch, and that helped for a little bit, but then it just quit working again. I grabbed a spare that I had. That worked for awhile, then eventually did the same thing. So I just ended up shorting across the range switch just to get the car running.

I spent most of the day working on those two things. Finally I had the car cranking over, I primed the oil system, threw in plugs and wires...




We are ready to run. I put the fuse in for the injectors, turn on the pump and try to start it. It fires, runs for a second or two then dies. Another attempt, same thing. I kept trying with the same results. I changed the tune a few times, none of that made any difference. One guy mentioned trying to unplug the maf and see if that helps. So I tried that. It starts up right away and stays running. It's idling at 1400 rpms, so there is either a bad iac or a vacuum leak. Either way, I got it to run at about 7 o'clock last night, so obviously not racing it today.

We are headed to the track with my buddy's turbo grand Prix this morning to see if he can get into the 10's.

One last picture, the car had gt badges that's didn't quite match. It is actually a gtp, so I pulled them off to put the correct badges on.

 

[Yaj Yak]

lotta patience here. well done.