🔧 BUILD 99 Silverado trials and tribulations

AlabamalaSS

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Oct 4, 2021
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So in typical fashion I have no signal to starter or fuel pump now. Ready to burn this mother fucker to the ground. I’ve been steadily working just about every afternoon to finish this thing up and I feel like I’m almost to to the finish line where it can at least move out of the garage under its own power. I had a buddy weld my intercooler piping together to save me some couplers and I’m not even going to share pictures lol I’m no welder, never have doubt I ever will and he did it for free but man I need to figure something else out for the next go round. Anyways I was able to get my IAT mounted pre intake manifold which is what I wanted so I didn’t have to drill the intake. I think it came out decent. RTV and slammed it in.
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I was also fortunate enough to have a buddy donate some 3” exhaust so I could make some sort of down pipe. I realized I forgot to order the flange from VSRacing when I ordered the turbo. Called and spoke with Viren on a Friday afternoon at 4:30 PM and it was at my house on Monday. I can’t say enough good things about the man. It’s two day shipping from Texas to Alabama but he still got my flange and clamp to the post office that afternoon. Anything I can get from him I will.

Me and Kyle have looked at how to do the fuel system every which way. Mainly trying to get the China boi regulator out of the way where it’s fairly accessible but still not in the way. So we finally decided to go under the truck by the frame rail and i ordered some nice ptfe braided hose and an fittings. Well I thought I did until I went back and reviewed my order a few days later and realized I just order black nylon braided hose. Not the end of the word just after looking at so many options I chose the wrong thing. No harm no fowl. It’ll still work. And yesterday afternoon after I got home from work I finally tackled the lines. I’ve put them off and done literally anything I could to not do them. I think they turned out decent. I still want to make a line to replace the return line. I did this to get it up and running so I can take the bed off to make it easier to work on I’m happy with this. I had to replace the fuel filter with one that had a 3/8 push lock on the outlet side. I’m keeping the hardline from the tank to the filter since I’m not looking at making huge power 3/8 and 6an should get me to where I want to be.
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So by the time I got everything tightened up it was about dark but I wanted to make sure it was pouring because one of the fittings isn’t the exact one I need but I thought maybe it’d work with an o ring and it does. Battery has been disconnected since I started tearing it apart last month and I hook up just the trucks positive and ground and forgot I have a key on source to Holley so after the 3.5” screen tried to come on I turned key back off and hooked up Holley completely again at tree battery. Usually when you key on the fuel pump will cycle for 5 seconds. (The fuel pump is not controlled by Holley. It’s still running run by the stock computer.) This is what I was trying to do to make sure there’s no leaks. Well it didn’t cycle. Battery shows 11.8v on the Holley dash as well as stock gauge. Try to turn it over and nothing to the starter. Right now I’m at a loss. I charged the battery last night and this morning before heading out to work I tried again still nothing. I’m sure it’s a ground somewhere but it’s a kick in the balls. I did jump the fuel pump relay and I only had one very small leak and it was just at the hard line going into the filter like before when I had a bad o ring. I’ll tighten it up this afternoon to see if it goes away. Not super worried about it at the moment though. Everything else was tight and not leaking so that was something decent to end the night on.

There’s light at the end of the tunnel
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Almost forgot I relocated the reservoir to the factory intake location. At factory location it was uncomfortably close to the turbo. Still working on a bracket to hold it exactly where I need it but overall happy with where it’s at.
 

daturbosix

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Did you make your own downpipe?

That's the same kit or manifold that I picked up last month. But I have rear heat and AC stuff all in that area and wondering how you made it to not interfere with your stuff in that corner of the firewall if you kept it
 

AlabamalaSS

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My buddy brought me the pipe he got for free. We’ve had to cut it up quite a bit to make it work. It’ll get wrapped as well for what protection it may add. The manifold came from forced performance but its just a run of the mill cast log. Nothing special. The a/C compressor is out of the truck right now but it’ll be going back in so I ran the turbo drain line in between the compressor bracket and engine mount. For the low pressure line I’m going to either get Blake Rowan to build me one or I’ve heard of people using the hose from a duramax. I haven’t got that far with it but it’ll definitely need a drier that has the connector clocked ether straight or facing the passenger fender. I’ll update when I cross that bridge
 
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daturbosix

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You could go straight down from the turbo and gain some extra space. I thought about doing that myself. Just moving the flange closer to the 90 but I’ll probably just leave it alone
id ideally like to keep both normal and rear heat/ac and have a exahust full length, or at least to the axle.

i still didnt buy a turbski yet though, so i might try to say with a exhaust housing opening that is the same size of pipe that i can fit easily through that space to get under the truck.

oh, and whos intercooler kit did you get? that looks like it actually fits decent, like moreso than the universal ones that alot of the gmt800 guys complain about on in the performace truck groups.
 

daturbosix

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The intercooler came from VS racing. I’m going to go full length exhaust with high flow cat and muffler with a loud valve eventually. It’s a bit too loud to leave it dumped the way it is right now
Once I get it under the truck, my plan is to cannibalize and cut up a diesel exhaust in three and a half or four inch size and then run just a giant resonator.

Might be a good option for you too if you find something that will quiet it down if you want it to be quiet
 
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AlabamalaSS

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Got the truck out for some driving this afternoon. Had a small issue with fuel or lack there of. Turns out I didn’t scale the target afr to the 3 bar map. So simple fix. Made right around 3.5lbs on reference plugged to the bottom port of the gate. Put a T in the reference and ran it to both the top and bottom ports of the wastegate and made about 7.5lbs. It’s loads of fun.

The bolt I broke off finally came back to bite me. At 7.5lbs it pushes enough oil of the back of the pan to cover the crossover and smoke like hell. I’ll be pulling the pan back off next and drilling the broken bolt. It sucks but it’s up and running and that makes me happy.
 

Mr_Roboto

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Got the truck out for some driving this afternoon. Had a small issue with fuel or lack there of. Turns out I didn’t scale the target afr to the 3 bar map. So simple fix. Made right around 3.5lbs on reference plugged to the bottom port of the gate. Put a T in the reference and ran it to both the top and bottom ports of the wastegate and made about 7.5lbs. It’s loads of fun.

The bolt I broke off finally came back to bite me. At 7.5lbs it pushes enough oil of the back of the pan to cover the crossover and smoke like hell. I’ll be pulling the pan back off next and drilling the broken bolt. It sucks but it’s up and running and that makes me happy.

try a long flat blade screwdriver in the hole with some pressure. no assurance but you have nothing to lose.
 

AlabamalaSS

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So it’s been way too long since I posted an actual update. But now aside from actually wiring the rad and trans cooler fans in, it’s up and running with a pretty decent tune in it.

So I had actually finished the turbo back in April sometime. I drove it around for two days and thought I broke it. I was beating the shit out of it on 8lbs of boost. Had a reference line blow off the bottom port of the wastegate and made 11lbs of boost and never made the 1-2 shift until I let out. Honestly thought it was over. I heard a knock and all my gears were slipping. We instantly yanked the engine/trans out and inspected. The trans fluid was black and smelled like burnt clutches. Honestly I’m surprised that unknown condition 4l60 lasted as long as it did. Took the heads off, it all looked fine. Pulled the pan and check rod bearings. They all looked fine so I decided to roll the dice and put it back together. I had a 4l80 on the garage floor and decided to open it up and make sure nothing looked funny. Plus I had an hd2 kit I wanted to throw in it to give it a chance at surviving. All went smooth. Took me awhile between work and other projects around the house plus it’s been hot as fuck and working in a stuffy garage burns you out quick. Next I found a 4:10 rear end at a salvage yard 3 hours north so my wife and I took a day trip to Birmingham. From there assembled the truck and found a local shop to make a driveshaft I obviously didn’t measure correctly first and had to have it cut down and rebalance 3/4”.

Fired it up and took it around the block. Ran great. Took it for a larger 2 mile loop and as I was turning back onto my road a bottom end knock showed up. I hadn’t beat on it. Just cruised to feel things out. Pulled the engine and had a loose rod cap. I guess I overlooked it when I originally checked the bearings. That mating surface was kind of beat up so I opted to buy a takeout off eBay for $27 and throw my piston and bearing in it. Now it runs great. I honestly think it’s about sorted out and I’m ready to take it on longer cruises. Currently making 4lbs and I’m going to leave it there until after cruisin the coast.

Now I’m just trying to sort some wiring and finish the interior to get it to cruisin the coast in Biloxi and back under its own power.

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The last picture is the day the bottom end started knocking and we pushed the truck back into the driveway.

Big take away. I’m an idiot for rushing through shit but less than a year later I have most of this shit sorted out. I have a full build sheet with prices and I’m roughly $8k of my own money into it at this point. It’s a about $1k over what I originally anticipated.
 

AlabamalaSS

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Oct 4, 2021
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Alabama
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Tyler Duck
I’ve had the truck together for a bit now and have been enjoying it. It’s making about 10lbs of boost and feels great but I have a dilemma. It’s a single cab and I have a child on the way. I’d love to get into something 4 door. A G8 would be ideal so I have the truck posted for sale. Pretty much a giveaway price $9k. Still having trouble selling it and I’m not going to take anything less than $8500 in its current configuration. Should I throw a stock engine/trans and stock computer in it and try and sell
It for $4kobo? I’d just keep the engine/trans and Holley terminator to just put in something later down the road or even sell it separately. Looking for you guys input
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