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honestly street tire, I don't think you go through a 4t80e. especially a fresh one with some of EP's mods inside (quicker shifts and more pressure).
Even with small slicks you probably couldn't hurt it. Right now I have the 3.11 gears and 29.5" slicks and ridiculous amount of torque and that really loads the transmission hard.
I wouldn't even worry...
well ive got a good strong design for the engine to diff brace. it fairly easy to get at the block side bolts with the F body/W oil neck but the G/H guys are sorta stuck jamming their hands between the engine and diff from the side as opposed to to access from the bottom... but I may rework it to a two piece affair
sure beats the piece of angle iron I had been using...
We just reworked the bracket. Now it's a 2 piece design and can be removed while the trans is on the block. allowing an easy access to rebuilding the 4t80e while in the car... Saving a few hours of unplugging and removing stuff.
i like the side cover volume increase....that never hurts dry sump systems...but the scavenge pump discharges are upward and downward. i was planning on tossing some teflon swarf/cuttings in there to give it a baffle that wont hurt any electronics but will make sure that the air can float out of suspension.I also designed a sub tank on the side cover. This will add at least 2 liters of additional fluid in the best location right where the main filter is. Also in fabrication at the CNC shop, a one piece billet aluminum deep pan with a lot more fluid capacity a much thicker/stronger design to prevent flexing of the case (a weak area, since the lower valve body actually doubles as brace lol..)
I think a lot of the issues of the 4t80e are due to flexing and losing hydraulic pressure at critical time (big torque, high traction)
Which may be why I went neutral suddenly under high load during launch in 2nd gear.
So I'm addressing 2 issues at once, more fluid available in case it get low during a long stall and hard launch causing air to get sucked in...
And more fluid in the bottom pan helping reduce frothing of the fluid during scavenging of the lower pan. This will help reduce the chance of air bubbles in the scavenged fluid being pumped into the side cover.
The pan will also be super strong helping boxing in the case of the transmission.
yeah i was looking at making the block side hit all three 12mm skirt bolt holes...the one near the knock sensor is sorta a pita so a 1 piece wouldnt work for easy trans service, but the 3 would give the final drive/differential ring gear alot more support.
i like the side cover volume increase....that never hurts dry sump systems...but the scavenge pump discharges are upward and downward. i was planning on tossing some teflon swarf/cuttings in there to give it a baffle that wont hurt any electronics but will make sure that the air can float out of suspension.
id hate to say it but most of that is due to using the oem mounting points that arent anywhere near the case bulkheads where all the tq reactions take place... look at how little meat is through that area of an empty case...and you cant count on the center suport as it only bolts to the case via the lube/cooler circuit....so its not doing anything.
our mounts go straight to the channel plate/case bulkhead and the differential/ring gear bulkhead, all loads are in shear through those bulkheads...distortion should be near zero since there are no longer any bending loads with tons of leverage like the oem mount
always a good idea, an external cylindrical dry sump tank would be great lol, maybe if the trans side cover keeps us from stuffing 16" shoe's out back it may be our best option. we are looking at putting the trans/engine puke tanks over the drivers side axle housing so with the trans vent taken care of i was planning on just running the side cover over full.
on the bottom pan thats not gonna do much of anything, by its nature and those filters your always going to be sucking in air bubbles... baffling in the side cover is the best fix....the scavenge pump that discharges downward may be the one making all the trouble...one reason i was planning on the teflon swarf/wool.
cant hurt to make it more rigid, but without moving away from the oem mount your not gonna see a whole lota change...(a packaging compromise undoubtedly....as it uses the same mounting brackets as the 65e G&H bodies.)
The side cover is made specifically for the rear engine. In the front the cover would need to be smaller