WTB 4 Post Lift

Boostie

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So at that point, is it just cheaper to buy a new unit. I know that seems like a waste. But at $150 pre their silly mail in rebate, do you just cut losses and get a whole new unit?
Since it still works (mostly) I just plan on riding it out one last winter as I plan on selling the house this spring. Next house will get a mini-split and a big natural gas heater.
 

Jimy Bilmo

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I snagged this one:


1698940628216.png
 

Yaj Yak

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I have my fans in the garage (from summer usage), so I do use them (usually one on a low setting) to help circulate air for better distribution. This way it's pretty much as warm at the back by the door as it is up front.


i had fans in last garage. fucking loved them in winter too... especially helps dry off shit too.
 

OffshoreDrilling

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They can, but the motor has to be wound for 120. Maybe Jared can correct me if I'm explaining wrong, but the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage needed to do the work. So running it off 120, it will run the possibility of burning out the motor from that higher amperage needed. It will also lift slower.

When Jared ran the 240 line to my garage to run my lift/heater, we only needed a 30amp circuit.

You may or may not be able to rewire the motor for 120. Reduced voltage= increased amperage.

Watts law. power(watts)= current (I) x voltage (V)

Heater for example at the two voltages :
7500W/120V=62.5A of power needed

7500W/240V=31.25A of power. Twice the voltage, half the power.

Motors (inductive load) generate back EMF and aren’t quite this simple but similar results.
 

OffshoreDrilling

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Garages aren’t created equal.

Insulated walls, ceiling insulation, ceiling height, attached garage, etc.

CMNTMXR57 CMNTMXR57 5kw is about 17,000 btu, 7.5kw is 25,500

I just did a load calc for my coworkers brothers garage. 35x50, 15’ ceiling. 46k btu. That should heat it to 70* at 0* outside. It’s well insulated though.
 

sktchy

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This guy. Keep in mind, I have finished my garage. All external facing walls I insulated and drywalled, I heavily layed insulation in the ceiling above and my garage door is a factory insulated door. When I had it installed, I went with 15" radius's (to give it additional clearance for the lift posts, but I think this allowed the installed to get the door tighter against the door frame as the door, in it's downward travel is in a more vertical orientation vs. a standard 12" where it's still rotating down. I think this help seal it better too.


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I've had something similar to this for a few years. 220v 7500 watt on a 50 amp circuit. Right now it's not struggling too hard to keep it at 85 (which in reality is probably 65 or 70 in the rest of the garage). But I'm gonna get one of those little vevor diesel heaters and use it to burn waste oil to keep this thing from eating at my electric bill as much as it does.
 
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