WTB 4 Post Lift
- Thread starter Jimy Bilmo
- Start date
They can, but the motor has to be wound for 120. Maybe Jared can correct me if I'm explaining wrong, but the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage needed to do the work. So running it off 120, it will run the possibility of burning out the motor from that higher amperage needed. It will also lift slower.
When Jared ran the 240 line to my garage to run my lift/heater, we only needed a 30amp circuit.
Well he'll be running a 240 line on a 30amp circuit for me as well. We'll be doing it as a plug/receptacle, so this should be fine if I end up with a lift. Unplug the heater, plug the lift in, run it, plug back in heater or whatever.
This is exactly how I am doing it now. He ran the outlet in to the garage. I never got the lift over, probably a spring project, but wired up the heater last week and have been enjoying it's warmth during this arctic blast.
I do need to ask how to run the external thermostat. Sounds like I gotta run that to the 240 plug, then to the heater. So right now it's sitting on my little psuedo workbench. But 75* - 78* in the garage regardless. And it does it quick. On the lower 5,000 BTU setting and at about 1/4 throttle.
I was considering an external thermostat, but I'll just run it for now, as we're also putting in a 66" ceiling fan. So throwing the motor into winter mode, should help distribute the heat evenly and not just be hot 7-8' off the floor.
So the heat in the garage is a perpetual argument between the wife and I. We've settled on, she leaves it alone, as long as we turn it off at night or when we're not home. I have explained to her that this is a thermostatically driven heater and it shuts off once it hits it's cut-off for the setting you set it at. But still... She lives in a world of paranoia over everything under the sun (she gets it from her mother).
So mounting it up on the ceiling of the garage where it really should be, would require us getting on a small ladder every night/morning or when we leave/get home. So that external T-stat would be nice to run right over by the light switch and no worries.
So mounting it up on the ceiling of the garage where it really should be, would require us getting on a small ladder every night/morning or when we leave/get home. So that external T-stat would be nice to run right over by the light switch and no worries.
So as I said, Jared wired it to the garage to a plug.
Here is the parts list (courtesy of Jared again) for you to wire it to the heater with a cord;
1 plug: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...-NEMA-L6-30P-Locking-Plug-L630PCCV3/100114938
1 Strain relieve that you put in the hole in the heater that you'll punch through: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3...-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connector-27697/202077092
7ft (Jared said 6, but figuring by the time I got it in the heater, and stripped/connected both ends I'd lose a few inches, I went 7): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...e-Portable-Power-SOOW-Cord-55809799/204632922
From there you wire it.
Plug first. Green goes in to the G hole, the black and white wire can go in either the X or Y slot as they're neutral (per Jared)
Opening up the bottom of the heater, this is what I found... Now believe this shit or not, I may have actually read the instructions. I figured this was 240, and I didn't want to end up being thrown across the garage. Already been DED in their once.
So I installed the cord strain relief thingy, ran the wire through, and attached the wires as instructed;
Here is the parts list (courtesy of Jared again) for you to wire it to the heater with a cord;
1 plug: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...-NEMA-L6-30P-Locking-Plug-L630PCCV3/100114938
1 Strain relieve that you put in the hole in the heater that you'll punch through: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3...-Strain-Relief-Cord-Connector-27697/202077092
7ft (Jared said 6, but figuring by the time I got it in the heater, and stripped/connected both ends I'd lose a few inches, I went 7): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...e-Portable-Power-SOOW-Cord-55809799/204632922
From there you wire it.
Plug first. Green goes in to the G hole, the black and white wire can go in either the X or Y slot as they're neutral (per Jared)
Opening up the bottom of the heater, this is what I found... Now believe this shit or not, I may have actually read the instructions. I figured this was 240, and I didn't want to end up being thrown across the garage. Already been DED in their once.
So I installed the cord strain relief thingy, ran the wire through, and attached the wires as instructed;
This guy. Keep in mind, I have finished my garage. All external facing walls I insulated and drywalled, I heavily layed insulation in the ceiling above and my garage door is a factory insulated door. When I had it installed, I went with 15" radius's (to give it additional clearance for the lift posts, but I think this allowed the installed to get the door tighter against the door frame as the door, in it's downward travel is in a more vertical orientation vs. a standard 12" where it's still rotating down. I think this help seal it better too.
Thats the exact same unit I have. My door is also insulated and garage finished with insulation. (~21x23') Is your garage attached? I dont leave mine on all the time, but she runs at 7500W full tilt for hours when I'm in the garage during winter and I would be lucky to see 60* temps
OffshoreDrilling told me not to go with the 7500W heater for my garage on the 30A circuit, said it should go on a 40A circuit.I think that I am going into year 4 with mine. The heater still works fine but there is something going on with the motor where every once and a while it will violently vibrate for a few seconds but then clear up. I reached out to Dyna-Glow last month to see if I could get a replacment motor based on their service parts book.... and this was their response
I mean, it'll cost me less to run this heater than it does to run my 3 dehumidifiers in the summer, so NFG, I'll bake the garage to 85* if I feel like it.
So at that point, is it just cheaper to buy a new unit. I know that seems like a waste. But at $150 pre their silly mail in rebate, do you just cut losses and get a whole new unit?I think that I am going into year 4 with mine. The heater still works fine but there is something going on with the motor where every once and a while it will violently vibrate for a few seconds but then clear up. I reached out to Dyna-Glow last month to see if I could get a replacment motor based on their service parts book.... and this was their response
View attachment 184191
I should add, you can get the 7,500 watt heater, just leave it on the 5k setting. This is one of the reasons I went with the old, archaic switch version vs. the fancy digital automatic control version. I don't want fam opening the garage on a balmy -15* Jan morn, that thing kicking on and flipping out and go in to max 7,500 watt mode and go nuclear on the garage to counter the arctic invasion.
Yeah, I'm my decision on the 5,000W heater. By adding the ceiling fan, it will adequately heat the entire garage from floor to ceiling.
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