3D printers...who has one?

Turbocharged400sbc

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Jun 16, 2007
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hangover park IL
I don’t believe anything has been printed on this mega fast machine.

Actually this is the 3rd iteration of this machine. The previous version use the standard 6 mm belts and they weren't strong enough we stripped a few teeth off of them at 1.6 amps

We are now running 12 mm belts on everything with the 148 oz in servos.

I could also see the harmonic from running the y-axis belt on the tooth side so I am now running it smooth side cross two points before it moves the hot end.

Now we should be good to run them at the full 2.8 amps.

Rigidity is everything.

I have all the wiring for the hot end I'm finishing making the chain way for the new Hemera carriage.

I should also note that you need to be really careful. Early on with this new build I kind of goofed during homing.... bent the two X limit switch brackets made out of angle auminum.... like they were paper.... before the windings melted....

Always be careful where your arms and fingers are
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

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Did a couple upgrades and some maintenance..

Swapped from springs to silicone feet and added the anti-backlash but for my Z rod. Then cleaned the rod and put some Teflon dry lube on it.
SmartSelect_20210721-080608_DuckDuckGo.jpg
SmartSelect_20210721-080643_DuckDuckGo.jpg



And the results I am pretty happy with. Made quite the difference on my Z issues. Much smoother prints and way less Z binding. I still need to tune my accel/jerk settings to the new hotend. I've been running it around 60MM/s for everything and can print successfully at 100-120MM/s... But the quality just isn't there yet without tuning.

Left is after upgrades/maint. right is before.

Z1.jpg

Z2.jpg
 
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Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
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hangover park IL
Start working on doing a dual Z upgrade the anti-backlash nuts are only a temporary Band-Aid for the y-axis sagging on the far end.
At least print the parts for the Dual Z upgrade that way when it gets bad enough all you have to do is buy the extra Rod nut and belt pulley stuff.

On our front we've got a bunch of s*** done got more stuff wired and started running it through its Paces found a couple of bad connections so we got to fix those.

20210725_140350.jpg
 
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Lord Tin Foilhat

TCG Conspiracy Lead Investigator
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Jul 8, 2007
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Privy Chamber
Start working on doing a dual Z upgrade the anti-backlash nuts are only a temporary Band-Aid for the y-axis sagging on the far end.
At least print the parts for the Dual Z upgrade that way when it gets bad enough all you have to do is buy the extra Rod nut and belt pulley stuff.

On our front we've got a bunch of s*** done got more stuff wired and started running it through its Paces found a couple of bad connections so we got to fix those.
So since I replaced my extruder and running the skr board, I can probably use that motor to run a dual motor Z. Is one way better then the other? Single motor + pulleys vs dual motor Z and no pulleys?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
32,538
15,847
hangover park IL
pulleys is better.
It keeps the lead screws in time and the Gantry horizontal with two separate steppers you would still want to link them with the belt so that one does not go out of sync from the other. Our machine has four Z's not linked by belts but we have 40 to 1 and 100to1 gear boxes that prevent the stepper from being pushed out of its park position when the power is off. Therefore we do not lose the levelness
 
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Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
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Feb 4, 2012
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Nashotah, Wisconsin (AKA not Illinois)
I will say I'm somewhat surprised there's not an extra driver and a second zero switch on the Z axis at least as an option. I have dual motor Zs and it can be a bit finicky at times but it's certainly not the end of the world; I tend to use it to tweak my adjustment first before leveling out my bed all the way.
 

Bob Kazamakis

I’m the f-ing lizard king
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Oct 24, 2007
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Did a couple upgrades and some maintenance..

Swapped from springs to silicone feet and added the anti-backlash but for my Z rod. Then cleaned the rod and put some Teflon dry lube on it.
View attachment 94923
View attachment 94924



And the results I am pretty happy with. Made quite the difference on my Z issues. Much smoother prints and way less Z binding. I still need to tune my accel/jerk settings to the new hotend. I've been running it around 60MM/s for everything and can print successfully at 100-120MM/s... But the quality just isn't there yet without tuning.

Left is after upgrades/maint. right is before.

View attachment 94925
View attachment 94926
Did you have the stiff bed springs before? That Z mod seems awesome I think I’ll have to get that too
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,538
15,847
hangover park IL
We got to that point about three months after we got the Tevo Nereus when we ordered the Folger Tech ft6 and waited forever to get a large printer that was assembled with all cheap garbage. Pretty much nothing remains of that original machine at this point.

I've got a bare-bones design that I've been ironing out but still gives a 400 by 800 print area.
The electronics boxes for both of those are a couple of old Apple g5 cases duet2/duex, moons, hemera etc.

20210801_140424.jpg
 

Gamble

TCG Elite Member
May 23, 2015
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Finally got around to finishing up the Prusa tonight. Printed a calibration cube and it was +- .002-.003" on X and Y, and + .005" on Z. I really can't complain about that. I still need to dial in my Z offset a little more, so that will likely tighten up the Z tolerance a bit.

View attachment 96817

View attachment 96819
How long did it take to assemble?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,538
15,847
hangover park IL
Well we finally managed to extrude Molten plastic.

The new PID Auto learn is fantastic and very detailed now in RepRap firmware 3.3
It's goes as far as mapping the heater with and without the parts cooler engaged which none of the other Marlin flavors do.

I'm still waiting for it to finish the auto-tune and we will hopefully be making a small plastic Cube.

20210822_123258.jpg
 
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