đź’¬ OT 3D printers...who has one?
- Thread starter Lord Tin Foilhat
- Start date
No but I've watched that video and it's intrigued me. Probably try it in the future.
gotta say I stand corrected on this one. had a pi laying around I always said I would do something with one day and decided today is that day. It is a bit finicky but overall seems awesome feature wise. a reboot does pretty well to fix it as of yet knock on wood. Threw a web cam on as well although that needs a different position. I can't see anything over head.
got more done on our new printer, got a bunch of stuff done and tested, we are fully updated to reprap 3.1.1 and configurations/pin assignments.
some teething with the S parameters now reserved for laser tool heads H is now used, inverting of drives is different as well.
i got it running at 400mm/s
so freaking fast, unfortunatly i fatfingered the travel limit to our full 860mm and i chooched the trigger for the end stop at H2 which ignores the limit switch and whether the machine is fully homed (im waiting on some stuff for the Z)
it should have been an H1 which ignores the home condition but still stops when an endstop is triggered.
so a moons 125oz/in nema 17 can really do some damage even though i had it limited to 1.4 amps...before i could hit the E stop it had already done something internally to the stepper.
also, check out m300 tunes....ours now plays the mario theme when it reboots
some teething with the S parameters now reserved for laser tool heads H is now used, inverting of drives is different as well.
i got it running at 400mm/s
so freaking fast, unfortunatly i fatfingered the travel limit to our full 860mm and i chooched the trigger for the end stop at H2 which ignores the limit switch and whether the machine is fully homed (im waiting on some stuff for the Z)
it should have been an H1 which ignores the home condition but still stops when an endstop is triggered.
so a moons 125oz/in nema 17 can really do some damage even though i had it limited to 1.4 amps...before i could hit the E stop it had already done something internally to the stepper.
also, check out m300 tunes....ours now plays the mario theme when it reboots
I guess I need to read this thread now. Brother got me this for Christmas.
It's covered in ABS goo. you put some acetone on the bed and slather a scrap of ABS across it so that you get better adhesion. Some people mix acetone/ABS together but that seems to work as well. Adhesion of the raft was very good at this point.
Neither do I really. I just make blobs of ABS string on my printer.
Cranked the fuck out of it. 110 on the bed, 230 at the nozzle. Lets see what she does. Print speed is still slow, we'll try laying hot and slow then cooling as much as possible. The layer thickness is thin as well, I'm not sure how that's going to play out. I should have put it back to draft thickness levels this is damn slow for iterating. I'm not sure how much changing the thickness will change the thermal dynamics either tbh.
Next mod is going to be a re-worked hot end shroud to try and keep more cooling air off the part as I go along.
ABS seems to be working a lot better. Not PLA by any means but serviceable. Bumped the living fuck out of the bed temp. I think my hot ends temperature sensor was erratic before and causing thermal cutout at elevated temperature.
The next step after this print completes is to see if it is dimensionally adequate or needs altered because of shrinkage.
The next step after this print completes is to see if it is dimensionally adequate or needs altered because of shrinkage.
basically alot of the things ya did to make it print may need to be reset so its setup properly
remember guys, even just disassembly and reassembly can change the heater. its just an M code and a cycle count and temp parameter and it does the rest. you just take the data it spits back at ya (in proterface/YetAnotherTerminal YAT) and another m500 before you shut it down so that it actually saves the parameters into the bin file
Mcode for the test, then an Mcode to insert the PID numbers from prev M code into the bin, then another M code (m500 i seem to recall) to actually save it permanently for reboot. i sorta screwed myself forgetting that last save....it would revert to the old settings after reboot.
bed heater didnt change much, it only changed when i went to heavier cables and resoldered at the pad
remember guys, even just disassembly and reassembly can change the heater. its just an M code and a cycle count and temp parameter and it does the rest. you just take the data it spits back at ya (in proterface/YetAnotherTerminal YAT) and another m500 before you shut it down so that it actually saves the parameters into the bin file
Mcode for the test, then an Mcode to insert the PID numbers from prev M code into the bin, then another M code (m500 i seem to recall) to actually save it permanently for reboot. i sorta screwed myself forgetting that last save....it would revert to the old settings after reboot.
bed heater didnt change much, it only changed when i went to heavier cables and resoldered at the pad
I haven't gotten to the bed heater yet. I am thinking a 110v conversion would be easy.
jacked the heat way up thinking I would make goo. Things are looking better. I also dumped the raft and went to a brim.
Also, is going to a 32 bit SKR board worth it besides the noise reduction? Mine's in the basement and has an enclosure so I'm less inclined to care at this point.
jacked the heat way up thinking I would make goo. Things are looking better. I also dumped the raft and went to a brim.
Also, is going to a 32 bit SKR board worth it besides the noise reduction? Mine's in the basement and has an enclosure so I'm less inclined to care at this point.
Here's my progress:
The lower one is what I got bumping the temperature up. You can see how much less warping is going on. I did 102%, it's a smidge too big so I need to go to 101%. Durability seems excellent I'm running at 100% infill. The durability seems there, this is extremely stiff. I'd run it with a very high degree of confidence on durability based on what I've been reading about people making PLA 10/22 receivers.
Lower temperature You can see how the base adhesion was poor even with a full raft.
Higher temperature (bed 110C, nozzle 240C) This was a brim, not a raft and it still came out better. Bed adhesion was excellent, even too strong as there was the surface of the Borosilicate glass that came off.
I ordered new bed glass, a BLTOUCH and a few sundry bits for my printer. I figured a couple extra thermal probes are a good idea and ordered a spring kit with billet up/down wheels. I've heard the springs make the bed hold level better so I figured what the heck.
The lower one is what I got bumping the temperature up. You can see how much less warping is going on. I did 102%, it's a smidge too big so I need to go to 101%. Durability seems excellent I'm running at 100% infill. The durability seems there, this is extremely stiff. I'd run it with a very high degree of confidence on durability based on what I've been reading about people making PLA 10/22 receivers.
Lower temperature You can see how the base adhesion was poor even with a full raft.
Higher temperature (bed 110C, nozzle 240C) This was a brim, not a raft and it still came out better. Bed adhesion was excellent, even too strong as there was the surface of the Borosilicate glass that came off.
I ordered new bed glass, a BLTOUCH and a few sundry bits for my printer. I figured a couple extra thermal probes are a good idea and ordered a spring kit with billet up/down wheels. I've heard the springs make the bed hold level better so I figured what the heck.
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