3800 3800 Oiling Tech Info

Turbocharged400sbc

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well after getting to talk with Bob for a few minutes (while he was here picking up that oil cap finally :p ) i realized that some of you may be interested in what i have uncovered in regards to the 3800 oiling system other than Deek (aka OZ38) in australia.

first lets start with this:
the 3800 oiling system is VERY similar to the GN 3.8's in many ways, the major difference being a crank driven gerotor pump instead of the 3.8 (and 4.1) cam driven spur gear pump.
the nut doesnt fall too far from the tree :lolsign:
also the SII has a lower volume pump (narrower scroll) than the SI (EV6) engines so the SII needs more attention paid to minimize passage restrictions (on both the suction and pressure sides) and to make sure that the bearing and rod side clearances are the only restrictions to oil flow (the way it should be).

and while Oil Restricting pushrods can help, they arent enough...

Issues:
oil pump passages NEED to be ported, there is factory casting flash that needs to be ground away from the inlets and outlets to the pump scroll section, as well as cleaning upp the oil filter passages

#2 and #3 main bearing oil passages, in the GN 3.8 the factory drilled these as 1/4 inch holes, the SII is a little better at ~7mm, while this should be adequate...there is a problem, the cam bearings intrude into these passages and end up with an area equivalent to a ~4.5mm hole...NOT good when this passage has to flow enough oil to feed the main bearing as well as the two connecting rod bearings on either side of the main.
Fortunatly there is sufficient meat in the main webbing to allow the passage to be drilled out to 3/8ths of an inch which aleviates the restriction at the cam bearing OD where it intrudes into the passage, and still leaves a bit over 2.5mm from the web surface facing the front of the engine.

main galley crossover passage, the early SII engines have a fairly small groove in the rear block cover to transfer oil from the main oil galley in the rear bank (cyl'rs 2,4,6) to the front lifter galley (1,3,5) the 98+ covers have a deeper groove, so if you have the early engines it would be a good idea to swap to the newer rear cover or mill the passage larger at the same time as the balance shaft delete is performed and the balance shaft oil hole is deleted.

bearing and rod side clearances, these engines are very sensitive to the bearing clearances... much more so than say a sbc, suffice it to say you should be on the tight side of spec, even so far as getting extra rods to tailor the rod side clearances as well, when i pulled the 98 L36 apart that will be going into the 442 i found as much as .004 variances from one rod/journal pairing to the next pair.
a side benifit from having tighter rod side clearances is that there is less oil windage and les oil thrown onto the cylinder walls which means that the already minimal oil scrapper ring doesnt get overloaded and let oil pass into the cylinder which can contribute to engine and bearing killing detonation.

these are the major issues that i have found and should greatly inprove the 3800's reliability at high power and rpm's, and should be sufficient for most engine buildups but it can be improved upon further...

by improving the oil supply to the pump, the pump draws the oil through the 5/8ths pickup to the block where it makes a 90* bend and heads for the block face where it makes another 90* bend to enter the pump by fabricating an external sump line into the pan with a larger ID you can make a gradual bend and go straight into the pump housing, removing two sharp 90* turns that at high rpm's would seem likely to cause cavitation and pressure loss especially in the case of improvements to flow on the pressure side.

I wont get into the cylinder 1 cooling issues just yet but improvements can be had in this area as well

anyways check my thread at 3800Pro.com if your interesting in reading more
http://www.3800pro.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9384
 
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Turbocharged400sbc

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I guess i should post some new pics

main #1 is 7/16ths already
main # 2 and 3 are ~7mm with #3 drilled to 3/8ths inch
main #4 is 5/16ths and will also be drilled to 3/8ths since the cam bearing shell restricts it still though not as much as #2 & 3

tools used:
small dia 3/8ths chuck drill
MAC 3/8ths drill bit
drill lubricant (i've always used (ford) type F ATF)
rat tail file for cleaning/deburing the edges
small flat file
6 inch long 5/16ths "football" carbide bit
masking tape to protect the main bearing saddles from the drill chuck
Streamlight LED penlight for inspection while drilling
1/4 inch drill rod taped to fit snug in Main #2 for "eyeball" alignment purposes
toolsusedtodrillmains.jpg


and if a picture is worth a thousand words, here comes a novel...

drillingNo3to3-8ths1.jpg

pretty damn good for eyeballing it, a guided drill bit, while expensive, is a good bit faster, but not required
drillingNo3to3-8ths2.jpg

now thats a difference! the upper main bearing shell should also have it's feed hole enlarged in line with the passage, BTW it's hard to see but yes the factory didnt center the flycuts over the main oiling passages, you can kinda see it on #2 and easily on #3
drillingNo3to3-8ths3.jpg
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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thanks guys
yeah seeing those blocks up close i was real suprised about the narrow passages on a few and the shitty water jacks near #1. we need more people like james on the boards to keep up with experimenting on 3.8s

thanks again james
[/b]
it was bound to have been done sometime, this is just another of those supporting mods that increases reliability.

no problem, now i just need to see the car it's going on... :)
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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is there a fix for the cooling issue on #1. [/b]

yes, drilling the LIM between cyl 1 and 3 for a 1/4 inch or 5/16ths hardline to the thermostat neck

stupid question but is the issue on both l36/l67 motors? [/b]

yes but it is less noticeable on L36's because of less heat produced


i have come across two 3800's that got hot, and had problems with the #1 cylinder... not really anything on my to do list, but great info!!!
[/b]

as have I even on stock L67's i have noticed the cyl #1 spark plug showed a higher temp than the rest and with an IR temp gun i confirmed the cyl head was 15* hotter in this area than the reading near cyl 5
Of note is that on the rear bank (bank 2) cyl 2 was only 8* off from cyl 6 so it would seem that the rear bank doesn’t suffer as much from the coolant flow differences.

After a quick bit of toying around with the blower and LIM and some smoke, i want to weld in a shoe at the blower outlet to redirect the air leaving the blower that is heading directly at cyl 1 and 2 ports towards the other end of the LIM.

Now to the oiling system:
After some further work I will be running an external pressure line from the covers post filter outlet to the lifter valley and plumbing it into the bank 2 oil/lifter galley between cyl 4 and 6 lifter bores.
this is because of the convoluted path the oil must take from the cover outlet passage to the front cam bearing area then back out to the bank 2 main oil/lifter galley passage, (two sharp 90* turns) and then to the main bearings.
this may not be 100% necessary but will assure that the two rear main bearings get oil as quick as possible at startup, and since I am an overkill kind of guy....
 

mcshocks

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Jun 12, 2008
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MN
About 3-4 years ago I had built up a series II 3800 for my old Novi 2000 setup, I was able to spin the motor daily to 6900 rpms with no problems. We took alot of the old R&D used on the series I 3800 blocks, ended up teardropping the other side of the main journals, crosdrilled and chamfered the crank and also added in a extra oil feed hole into the main bearings.

Here is a few pics:

The teardropping on the other side:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show...274_14_full.jpg

Extra oil feed hole in the bearings:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show...274_16_full.jpg

Just for fun a few on the old engine in progress and complete:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show...8274_2_full.jpg

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show...8274_5_full.jpg

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/show...8274_6_full.jpg


Never took any pics of the crank, I kinda miss that old setup other than loosing belts all the time. Never got any real good times out of it as I made it to the track only once, ran a best of 13.1 @ 108.97mph on 12 PSI, I was able to push 21 PSI without a IC on pump gas, block was 8.0:1 compression.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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ahhh so then you only crossdrilled the main journals of the crank? i wouldnt want to mess with the rod journals with the limited material there as well as the additional stress risers...
what was the valvetrain setup for that shift point? with my tall deck/long rod SI/SII hybrid i'm looking at an engine that has significantly better high rpm breathing potential and can probably wind to 7500 even with a stock crank....though i am looking for a 3.8/4.1/GN crank to see whether the aftermarket 4340 forged GN cranks can be made to work in the 3800's with all the similarities i've found, i'm at least looking into it....

Regards, James
 

mcshocks

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Jun 12, 2008
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ahhh so then you only crossdrilled the main journals of the crank? i wouldnt want to mess with the rod journals with the limited material there as well as the additional stress risers...
what was the valvetrain setup for that shift point? with my tall deck/long rod SI/SII hybrid i'm looking at an engine that has significantly better high rpm breathing potential and can probably wind to 7500 even with a stock crank....though i am looking for a 3.8/4.1/GN crank to see whether the aftermarket 4340 forged GN cranks can be made to work in the 3800's with all the similarities i've found, i'm at least looking into it....

Regards, James
[/b]

Yup only the main journals, my main concern was the common used oil passages for the connecting rods and plus our motors are known for spining bearings at higher RPM's but that seems to be mostly resolved with SFI dampners (I used one and never had any issues). I was using stock valve heads with 130# springs at the time, only a stage 2 blower cam though, and a double roller rollmaster timing chain. I didn't have valve float but tranny issues, I had it setup to shift at 6200 rpm in the PCM and the car was shifting 6900 rpm, Charles Beyer saw that from my scans when he was at GPG and about crapped his pants. Seems like double springs or the manley 150#'ers are the way to go for big cams and high rpm's.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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a bit of an update i posted on 3800pro

Originally posted by OZ38;82185+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(OZ38;82185)</div>
James what about the standard oil pick up / strainer ?
Do you think there could be any restrictions there that could be improved ? (apart from completely remaking it)
Like the shroud being drilled or partly removed below the screen.
Seems alot of people suffer from a blocked pick up at times when gung somehow gets up into that little screening area.

Cheers

Deek[/b]

well i would guess that a larger square/rectangular pickup welded onto the end would help i dont see much point in using the factory stuff, but with blocked pickups, there's not too much you can do except maintain your engine to prevent sludge/carbon buildup that would find it's way to the pickup screen and clogging it

the other thing would be to epoxy in screens in the valley drainback holes to prevent debris from reaching the pan from the topside of the engine.


<!--QuoteBegin-Abysalone;82203

Thanks for clearing up the baffle thing. If im getting this right, I would just weld the pickup on the bottom of the pan, then add louvered baffles to keep the oil in the pan and covering the sump.
well i wouldnt weld the sump directly into the bottom of the pan, the sludge that falls out of oil suspension would tend to collect there, what i am looking at is a "T" the suction from the bottom of the T, and under the top portion of the T the underside of the T's top would be 3/8ths off the floor of the pan
my thought is this:
externalsumpdesign.jpg


Originally posted by Abysalone;82203+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Abysalone;82203)</div>
This will also act as an additional windage tray right? I was just looking through a summit catalogue and I saw some SBC baffles for Milodon pans and thats where I got a better idea of what the baffles are. (I think)[/b]
maybe i should actually work on putting my idea's down on paper as i am imagining two swinging door in that sump design that would halp with oil feed under hard cornering.
there are a couple different baffle designs but they all have one thing in common, to keep the oil in the sump area regardless of G forces trying to slosh the oil away from the pickup.


<!--QuoteBegin-Abysalone;82203

I just figure while the pan is off, it couldnt hurt to try a few things. I think that with some work on the oil pump, the re-routing and new sump should help with flow a little until I get another block and try the passage drilling and other oiling mods.

Here is what I came up with.
now if you go with the remote filter setup instead of just plumbing the filter outlet to the IN port of the adaptor plate split it and go directly to the NPT plugged passage behind the P/S pump mounting boss AND the IN port on the adaptor or better yet directly to the plugged passage and an external 5/16ths hardline up the block surface to the front of the valley, through the bulkhead and then to the bank 2 main oil galley above the #3 main bearing bulkhead (between the two cylinders lifter boss's)

a quick illustration...
SIIBlockoilfeeds1.jpg


i needed to mockup the L67 setup to make sure there is room for the hardline but i didnt finish a valley illustration of the hardline routing through the front bulkhead.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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when do you imagine the engine will be fully assembled?
[/b]

thanks, the shortblock shouldnt be too long i still have to do the radial gas porting on the top ring lands as well as drilling additional holes for the small oil scraper ring in the piston skirt. the grinding of the block bores for unshrouding the valves is already done as are the main oiling holes drilled out.

i may crossdrill the crank mains as shocks did but i will probably pay more attention to getting enough extra rods to assure that all the rod to rod journal side clearances are on the tight side of spec

after a couple more mockups with the rotating assembly i'll be honing the block and then giving it to my buddy Milo to have it and the heads hot tanked and new cam bearings installed, then i'll be installing new core plugs, epoxy in some debris screens in the valley drainback holes (i would like to block them off and get the oil to drainback through the front cover/Tchain area to reduce windage but they are wrather large to tap for pipeplugs), painting it and assembling the whole caboodle

I want to make a plate for the filter boss so i can run a S10 external filter (and cooler once the turbo goes on with the blower) as well as plumb 2 block oiling lines from the filter outlet to the (OE plugged) passage behind the PS pump mounting boss and a hardline up the face of the block, through the front bulkhead and going into the bank 2 main oil galley between the 4 and 6 cylinder lifters.
this in addition to an external sump/trap door'd pan line to the pump inlet port.

then i have the cooling and oil drainback modifications to the heads/LIM

we havent even started with the head porting and backcutting the valves yet on the 98 L67 heads but i want to have it ready to drop into the 442 before spring *crosses fingers* :lolsign:

BTW i dont know if anyone else has noticed this but the early SII blocks are a different casting than the later SII blocks which have more similarity to the SI blocks than the early SII...but i wont get into that too much.

the SI/SII hybrid is getting the two L36 LIM's that i have cut and the two made into a wide single by welding them together and fabbing a custom UIM, which Al wants to see if it's possible for me to stick two M90's on a triangular UIM, with the turbo. :blink:

with how cheap we've been scoring G3's maybe i can make that happen :D
 

Sinister Drag Designs

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[/quote]

Al wants to see if it's possible for me to stick two M90's on a triangular UIM, with the turbo. :blink:

with how cheap we've been scoring G3's maybe i can make that happen :D
[/quote]

that would be pretty nuts...good luck with that belt set up.....im thinking a a 8-rib might be ideal

with all the crazy shit that s happening in your garage you should try and see if you can stack two m90s like the 8-71 and 6-71s do(i know this would require alot of cutting and sealing up top

anyone remember the GTO with the dual blower setup ...was at nationals, last months issue of HPPontiac...
if anyone can do it i think you can james

when are you going to start offering your services for all this drilling of the oil passages and coolant jackets
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Al wants to see if it's possible for me to stick two M90's on a triangular UIM, with the turbo. :blink:

with how cheap we've been scoring G3's maybe i can make that happen :D
[/b]

that would be pretty nuts...good luck with that belt set up.....im thinking a a 8-rib might be ideal[/b]

yeah the belt would be the fun part, the UIM would have to be made from 5/16ths and 3/8ths inch steel for strength, the only reson i think it's feasable is because of the the room available in the rear engine compartment

with all the crazy shit that s happening in your garage you should try and see if you can stack two m90s like the 8-71 and 6-71s do(i know this would require alot of cutting and sealing up top

anyone remember the GTO with the dual blower setup ...was at nationals, last months issue of HPPontiac...
if anyone can do it i think you can james[/b]

yeah that would be alot of work! i'd wrather find a way to bolt an 8-71 on it lol, now that would deffinatly require a hole in the hood to show that off

when are you going to start offering your services for all this drilling of the oil passages and coolant jackets
[/b]
toss your block and stand in your ride and come on over (dont forget the front and rear covers) i have more than enough tools so you can port the oil pump housing while i drill the mains if your not that comfortable doing it
dont forget the Yaeger and DrPepper (dont worry it'll help steady me) :lolsign:

i think the bare min of mods that should be done to EVERY block is the mains drilled out and porting of the oil pump housing and rear crossover passage, i have been looking at a few oil filter adaptors to identify which one's have the least restricted passages
the external pickup and oil filter setup with direct feeds to the block passages are just so i can delete several 90* bends while still utilizing the OE oil pressure relief valve, while at the same time running an S10 remote filter/oil cooler...that and the whole overkill obsession
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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ok quick question fer ya'll

when you built your engines did any of you chambfer the main and rod bolt holes...as i was wiping it down i noticed my blocks have raised edges at the cap and block main bolt holes (not on the sidebolts) and a quick setup with fresh green plastigauge shows it definatly interfears with the cap mating surfaces (Tq'd to 55ft lbs-i didnt want to search for my angle gauge :p ) not good...i'm gonna go ahead and use my inside mic's to verify that the main bores are in round before i even put the bearings anywhere near the block...i should still have in alignhoned but i want to see what i come up with first...

i was just curious if ya'll did check for this on any of your buildups

I'm chambfering all of the one's on this block as well as the rods when i start working them over...

just figured ya'll would want a heads up...
 

sktchy

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Bumping this because it's one of the most informative pieces on 3800s I've ever read and it wasn't the easiest thing to dig up.

I'm also curious on different oil filter housing types and what can be done there, as well as a bypass delete? That can just be taken out?
 
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