3800 - Ford GT blower swap
- Thread starter turtleman
- Start date
yup
at least that's my feeling
The 11.4 was the first good run I've had where boost-based traction control paid a dividend
i'll incrementally pepper in a little bit more at the leave and get it to the traction limit of the tires.
then a baby nitrous shot
there's someore tricks to go
Right now I'm working on the fuel system though.
I was starving for fuel and I need to fix that
Very good... if tracks open this year, need to get my turd out.. havent gone in 1.5 years. Gates RPM belt has done wonders. Almost 1.5 years old and no real noticeable stretch at all.
You gotta beat my 11.31 run at least that was under the massive belt slip issues.
Will be a while.. Turbo turd is down the for the count longer..... didn't like the 18psi to 28psi instant jump during a high clip of speed during testing with the precision bb 7675.. the old 200k+ stocker engine bit the dust.
New engine, cam, heads, maybe turbo exhaust side will need replaced...
Motor has been touched since late 2019 since it pop'd... other than crushed spark plugs all around.
I've been spending most of my wrenching time on the totally unrelated equal-length exhaust project. I'm using the stock white car for that right now. The more I play with setups and learn, the more picky I get about it. I need to be very thorough and figure out exactly what I want before getting stuff permanently welded up so it's ongoing. I have a pretty interesting comparison video coming about that soon.
Back to the FGT happenings, I accidentally let the water freeze in my intercooler system after I parked the car last year which ruined the core. To add insult to injury the replacement fabricated core didn't fit my adapter assembly so I had to spend time modifying the plates and have Bell Intercoolers rework the core and stuff. It was an expensive pain in the ass. Thankfully the engine wasn't hurt despite having freezing water leaking into the cylinders and affectively hydro-locking once I tried to start it later. I cleared the engine out and changed the oil. It's all good now. Finally it's ready to get put back together.
Oh and apparently there was a rodent or something living in my engine compartment through the winter because every square inch of every surface under the hood is covered in tiny white turds. Not a smell i'd recommend to anybody once I started that up and ran it for a while. Anyhow I just need to try to clean that up and put the FGT setup back in and she's off to the races again.
As for dealing with the fueling issues I had, I have some plans. I noticed right away that although the 400lph pump definitely supplies more than my 255lph did, it's not even close to performing in proportion to the numbers and it's sucking a ton of current under full power. I started looking closer at things and had some observations. The main hard fuel line under the car is 3/8 tube. Under the hood, it's all racecar -6 AN off the hard line. Between the hard line and the tank, however, is where I see bottlenecks. The ends of the plastic line at the back side of the car, the oem fuel filter, and the fuel pump assembly itself are all kind of a flow bottleneck.
The factory connection to the fuel pump suuucks! It's a 3/8 hose barb but the inside diameter is undersized.
This is what a normal brass 3/8 looks like compared to the one on the bottom of the stock hat.
so the first thing any fuel pump you put in there sees is a 3/16 diameter orifice to try fight fuel through...
Right now I'm working on making my own billet fuel pump mounting hat to connect to the factory bucket and stuff. I want more flow with absolutely zero compromise of oem functionality.
There's an earlier screenshot of my blueprint. You can kinda make out what's going on if you're used to seeing a stock assembly.
Here's the material i'm using to make the most badass stock fuel pump setup ever haha. All I got done is blanked the brass insert piece on the wire machine since I'm just about finalizing the design now
This is basically what i'm doing about the filter area. I want to keep the fine filtration of the stock filter media so I'm just gonna run two in parallel and each get it's own supply line right from the fuel pump module. I could just as well do a single -6 braided hose or whatever but I don't want to spend the money when it's not gonna be any better.
Back to the FGT happenings, I accidentally let the water freeze in my intercooler system after I parked the car last year which ruined the core. To add insult to injury the replacement fabricated core didn't fit my adapter assembly so I had to spend time modifying the plates and have Bell Intercoolers rework the core and stuff. It was an expensive pain in the ass. Thankfully the engine wasn't hurt despite having freezing water leaking into the cylinders and affectively hydro-locking once I tried to start it later. I cleared the engine out and changed the oil. It's all good now. Finally it's ready to get put back together.
Oh and apparently there was a rodent or something living in my engine compartment through the winter because every square inch of every surface under the hood is covered in tiny white turds. Not a smell i'd recommend to anybody once I started that up and ran it for a while. Anyhow I just need to try to clean that up and put the FGT setup back in and she's off to the races again.
As for dealing with the fueling issues I had, I have some plans. I noticed right away that although the 400lph pump definitely supplies more than my 255lph did, it's not even close to performing in proportion to the numbers and it's sucking a ton of current under full power. I started looking closer at things and had some observations. The main hard fuel line under the car is 3/8 tube. Under the hood, it's all racecar -6 AN off the hard line. Between the hard line and the tank, however, is where I see bottlenecks. The ends of the plastic line at the back side of the car, the oem fuel filter, and the fuel pump assembly itself are all kind of a flow bottleneck.
The factory connection to the fuel pump suuucks! It's a 3/8 hose barb but the inside diameter is undersized.
This is what a normal brass 3/8 looks like compared to the one on the bottom of the stock hat.
so the first thing any fuel pump you put in there sees is a 3/16 diameter orifice to try fight fuel through...
Right now I'm working on making my own billet fuel pump mounting hat to connect to the factory bucket and stuff. I want more flow with absolutely zero compromise of oem functionality.
There's an earlier screenshot of my blueprint. You can kinda make out what's going on if you're used to seeing a stock assembly.
Here's the material i'm using to make the most badass stock fuel pump setup ever haha. All I got done is blanked the brass insert piece on the wire machine since I'm just about finalizing the design now
This is basically what i'm doing about the filter area. I want to keep the fine filtration of the stock filter media so I'm just gonna run two in parallel and each get it's own supply line right from the fuel pump module. I could just as well do a single -6 braided hose or whatever but I don't want to spend the money when it's not gonna be any better.
Fuel system update is done. If the weather cooperates, i'll put it to the test this sunday at GLD
basically ready to get smashed in
I was having a pretty hard time trying to get the 2nd plastic line run through the passage above the gas tank so I said fuck it. I just advanced the rust in the area a couple more years and I'm still here to tell about it
all hooked up - my 97 riv doesn't use the pressure sensor but I incorporated it because my 99 does and this will end up in there one of these days
on to the bottom, I cut the fuel line and used a swagelok fitting to connect to 3/8npt
I even enlarged the ID of the fitting to be a c-hair bigger than the tube ID and made a taper transition because overkill
I made the Y pipe from billet because I wasn't crazy about the usual options. This has double 1/4npt to a 3/8npt
fits really easily in the 97. The 99 will be a little more difficult because they relocated the charcoal box to right next to the filter area
So that's that. Nothing leaks. Car goes fine. Hopefully I can get a new PB before this car breaks in half from rust
basically ready to get smashed in
I was having a pretty hard time trying to get the 2nd plastic line run through the passage above the gas tank so I said fuck it. I just advanced the rust in the area a couple more years and I'm still here to tell about it
all hooked up - my 97 riv doesn't use the pressure sensor but I incorporated it because my 99 does and this will end up in there one of these days
on to the bottom, I cut the fuel line and used a swagelok fitting to connect to 3/8npt
I even enlarged the ID of the fitting to be a c-hair bigger than the tube ID and made a taper transition because overkill
I made the Y pipe from billet because I wasn't crazy about the usual options. This has double 1/4npt to a 3/8npt
fits really easily in the 97. The 99 will be a little more difficult because they relocated the charcoal box to right next to the filter area
So that's that. Nothing leaks. Car goes fine. Hopefully I can get a new PB before this car breaks in half from rust
Don't be surprised - I made it - not a company that knows what they're doing
I didn't realize that. I know you can't use bare aluminum with E85. If it works really well, i'll remake the brass part out of alum. and hard anodize it but I thought brass was fine.
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