You can always just put holes in your canister and ditch the venture all together, I don’t even have a canister in my tank if I get around a 1/4 I can see the car lean out on the hit from a dig but from a roll it’s ok, at a half tank fuel slosh isn’t an issue
3800 - Ford GT blower swap
- Thread starter turtleman
- Start date
You can always just put holes in your canister and ditch the venture all together, I don’t even have a canister in my tank if I get around a 1/4 I can see the car lean out on the hit from a dig but from a roll it’s ok, at a half tank fuel slosh isn’t an issue
Yeah it has the original 3/8" feed and 5/16" return hard lines.
I set my base fuel pressure to 43psi instead of 48-50 like the factory. It holds normal either way.
Are you by chance running the pump at full duty all the time because of the classic failed resistor? I'd think that would contribute to such a problem.
After some more looking my plan, now, is to get a Deatschwerks 400 in-tank replacement. It can be spec'd with a venturi feed nipple so I can run it just like the stocker and it flows about double what the 255 does. It contends with head pressure better than anything else in testing so in my environment (stock size lines, filter, single fuel rail loop) it seems like the way to go. There is no pressure hold valve like the stock or the racetronix pump that's currently in there but I didn't find the lack-thereof to be a big problem in the past. Having that valve creates a restriction in itself
i've been workin a bit on the main needed things to outrun mr.whipple this year
fuel supply is the clear #1 problem
I went ahead and got a Deatschwerks 400 pump
stock vs dw400
this made me very happy - it can be squeezed into the stock location albeit without any insulator
The 150 series terminals on the factory fuel pump plug is definitely not going to cut it for this. The 280 series you can get is better but still leaves something to be desired. This pump will use about double the current of the walbro 255 i'm replacing so I'm going this route...
I'm running the pump wires right through the thing and putting my own heavy duty connector on it
drilled through the factory modular bulkhead body and inner plug to let the wires go right through
the outer end of the plug remains sealed and so I'll keep it to have the fuel level sender
Only thing I'll need to do is rtv the wires in their holes to seal it and relocate one of the fuel level pins on both plugs
fuel supply is the clear #1 problem
I went ahead and got a Deatschwerks 400 pump
stock vs dw400
this made me very happy - it can be squeezed into the stock location albeit without any insulator
The 150 series terminals on the factory fuel pump plug is definitely not going to cut it for this. The 280 series you can get is better but still leaves something to be desired. This pump will use about double the current of the walbro 255 i'm replacing so I'm going this route...
I'm running the pump wires right through the thing and putting my own heavy duty connector on it
drilled through the factory modular bulkhead body and inner plug to let the wires go right through
the outer end of the plug remains sealed and so I'll keep it to have the fuel level sender
Only thing I'll need to do is rtv the wires in their holes to seal it and relocate one of the fuel level pins on both plugs
somemore fun stuff
I'm polishing up the double throttle setup and leaving myself all options available for plumbing
this is the latest plate. This accommodates a minimally modified northstar and L32 and some little purple decoration that no one needs to worry about
the throttle bodies need only be milled a bit
this took some care. the throttle openings need to be inside the boundary of the blower opening but far enough apart that the couplers and clamps can be installed. This was a just fuckin barely deal
This is probably going to evolve in the future but for the sake of getting this show on the road I'm using a WOT switch to send power straight to the L32 TB actuator motor
Need to take care of that closing flutter. I've got some ideas but for starters, i'm bringing the voltage down and probably adding a diod.
another little dohicky I made up. contour-fit bulkhead hose nipple for the FGT IAC setup
I'm polishing up the double throttle setup and leaving myself all options available for plumbing
this is the latest plate. This accommodates a minimally modified northstar and L32 and some little purple decoration that no one needs to worry about
the throttle bodies need only be milled a bit
this took some care. the throttle openings need to be inside the boundary of the blower opening but far enough apart that the couplers and clamps can be installed. This was a just fuckin barely deal
This is probably going to evolve in the future but for the sake of getting this show on the road I'm using a WOT switch to send power straight to the L32 TB actuator motor
Need to take care of that closing flutter. I've got some ideas but for starters, i'm bringing the voltage down and probably adding a diod.
another little dohicky I made up. contour-fit bulkhead hose nipple for the FGT IAC setup
This thing needs to be able to eat like a baked rabid ape that just found a cocaine poptart truck. I want to make at least 500hp. Needs easy access to air. The stock Ford GT throttle body is a twin 70mm which is pretty sick. That's what they felt was necessary for 550hp. My scenario taxes the blower more since it has to boost stack a lot harder to make comparable power. Inlet restriction is the last thing I need. James was tellin me that erics 2300ax setup was measuring some surprising vacuum in front of the throttle blade with their single 90mm. I need to do better.
Sooo there's different ways to accomplish a double throttle blade setup but this should work out really nicely because the electronic throttle will only open once I hit WOT on the cable throttle body so it's kinda like the secondaries on a carb. It'll give me stock part-throttle articulation and the full benefit of two 75mm blades when I got WOT.
I'll elaborate more on the matter of the intakes later but I'm going to be running two discrete 85mm mafs (so that way I should have solid maf calibration and low restriction). I've already got a fully tuneable maf module to combine the two maf signals - the maf fusion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxHaYxpeMMI&feature=youtu.be
I finally figured out good video rendering settings for uploading to youtube. It would always look like compressed-to-death garbage. This looks nearly as good as off the gopro 1080@60fps. If I did nothing else today I'd still be happy
Anyhow these short clips were test runs. Little did I know I was totally running out of fuel at the top end
I finally figured out good video rendering settings for uploading to youtube. It would always look like compressed-to-death garbage. This looks nearly as good as off the gopro 1080@60fps. If I did nothing else today I'd still be happy
Anyhow these short clips were test runs. Little did I know I was totally running out of fuel at the top end
Update
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsWSN1gzjN4&feature=youtu.be
So far I've missed out on the fleeting opportunities to get this to the track but the longer I delay, the farther along I get so I guess it's ok. The rain is driving me nuts though. Here's a shitty video for today.
I got the double throttle mad scientist project fully functional and working reasonably well. You open the throttle to 90% which normally is near as makes no difference 100% but now it's like a 2x volume knob for the supercharger and more pah cause better diabetic effishesies or somethin. The motor is takin it like no thang at all.
I really want to get to the ZZP dyno day. It's gonna be tricky since there's still gonna be rain all over the place and I have a gaping hole in my hood
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsWSN1gzjN4&feature=youtu.be
So far I've missed out on the fleeting opportunities to get this to the track but the longer I delay, the farther along I get so I guess it's ok. The rain is driving me nuts though. Here's a shitty video for today.
I got the double throttle mad scientist project fully functional and working reasonably well. You open the throttle to 90% which normally is near as makes no difference 100% but now it's like a 2x volume knob for the supercharger and more pah cause better diabetic effishesies or somethin. The motor is takin it like no thang at all.
I really want to get to the ZZP dyno day. It's gonna be tricky since there's still gonna be rain all over the place and I have a gaping hole in my hood
Finally went to the track last weekend and first ever dyno this weekend thanks to zzp's gathering. I'm filled with glee - doin car things!
I have decent video footage of the track and some lousy clips from yesterday I'll put in later but just to kick off, here's the dyno results
I really wish I got there much earlier. There's some solid 380ish hp cars. People know how to build m90 setups these days. I'm guessing no turbo cars unless one or more of these were mild builds so I look like a hero
508hp 526 ft-lb on zzp's mustang dyno 80f outside
I have decent video footage of the track and some lousy clips from yesterday I'll put in later but just to kick off, here's the dyno results
I really wish I got there much earlier. There's some solid 380ish hp cars. People know how to build m90 setups these days. I'm guessing no turbo cars unless one or more of these were mild builds so I look like a hero
508hp 526 ft-lb on zzp's mustang dyno 80f outside
I don't have a probe for pre-IC and I don't have my post-IC iat connected at the moment. I couldn't get my egr reference circuit to work for it so I temporarily gave up
Went back to GLD sunday and ticked off that time I wanted woooo!
didn't get to spray due to tuning issues and fueling issues. maybe next time
After spending an hour or so on my laptop trying to get my maf tune straightened out and getting nowhere, I gave up and rolled it back to the old tune that worked.
When I made the first pass, I got maybe to the 330ft and then the engine coughed and all power disappeared. I had no idea what the hell happened until I looked at the log and saw fuel pressure went to zero
I believe I overloaded the MSD fuel pump voltage booster and it just gave up. Or possibly some other electrically related fault. That DW400 sucks a lot of power - more than the booster is rated for when I'm all the way turned up to 22 volt. I didn't feel good about it but I turned it down to 20 volts and went for a second pass. Glad I did!
I got the boost control profile dialed in well enough to pull off a nice 1.8XX 60ft. That makes 11's a lot easier!
Video coming once I get a chance to compile the footage
didn't get to spray due to tuning issues and fueling issues. maybe next time
After spending an hour or so on my laptop trying to get my maf tune straightened out and getting nowhere, I gave up and rolled it back to the old tune that worked.
When I made the first pass, I got maybe to the 330ft and then the engine coughed and all power disappeared. I had no idea what the hell happened until I looked at the log and saw fuel pressure went to zero
I believe I overloaded the MSD fuel pump voltage booster and it just gave up. Or possibly some other electrically related fault. That DW400 sucks a lot of power - more than the booster is rated for when I'm all the way turned up to 22 volt. I didn't feel good about it but I turned it down to 20 volts and went for a second pass. Glad I did!
I got the boost control profile dialed in well enough to pull off a nice 1.8XX 60ft. That makes 11's a lot easier!
Video coming once I get a chance to compile the footage
There's plenty more left I'm sure.
Thread Info
-
Created -
188Replies
-
43KViews
-
Participants list
