3800 - Ford GT blower swap
- Thread starter turtleman
- Start date
This was pretty much the last step for the intercooler assembly. This setup was to cut the radial o-ring grooves for the core tubes
tadaah
bottom shot
Now that the thingy is basically done, I guess the next thing to tackle would be the belt situation. I know I'm gonna be playing with that more later as I run into slip problems but for now I'm just gonna get it working. I made up a new beltwrap that will give me some adjustability. I don't have much to go off of for ideal position and stuff so I just wang it best I could
cutting up some more aluminum...
ooh and some stainless steel for diversity...
And eventually these random things become a beltwrap!
Only other component to that is the adjustable brace that's currently on the car with the M90. Worse thing I'd have to do to adapt it is extend the sleeve on it to make it work for the FGT stuff
*sorry about the fuzzy pictures - I never really notice how lousy they are until I've already uploaded and everything
i love that some of the most innovative & intense builds currently on TCG... are 3800 based.
Seriously. A couple twin engine cars, running 3800's, this custom fab, plus a couple others I'm currently forgetting.
Not saying there aren't other cool builds on TCG, but with this amount of innovation and ingenuity? I can't really find much.
There's nothing I can see that directs flow any way inside the core. I figured the only thing that can really ruin my day would be having air trapped in it which is why I set the tubes up at the top. My gut tells me it'll work fine. From a design standpoint, I was figuring that the biggest problem with most of these cores is too brief an exposure time with the hot air charge for the coolant to soak up the heat. Having a much thicker radiator should help that dramatically I think (even if it isn't the best fin design in the world). I don't see why the coolant itself would be any trouble especially with such an excess of it. As a bonus, the tendency for the charge to flow radially out of the bower toward the front cylinders is probably nulled completely after going through 4.5 inches of fins
There's been some more progress but you know... photobucket seriously 
I don't even know what I missed posting about but I'll go backwards and figure it out later. I have a paid imageshack account now
We got braces that would make a shark cum to its knees
There's things you could critique but for the purpose of getting something legit working butcher-free it's good. It'll keep the belt tension under boost from augering my 4.5" long 1/4" intercooler bolts into the aluminum which is the fear that prompted me to do the braces before installing & testing. Oh and also the alternator kinda needs more than one bolt holding it on.
It's getting pretty close. Still need some more minor bits. Also need to take care of some maintenance and shit on the car and figure out why It's shutting down on me sometimes - looks to be ignition-related.
I don't even know what I missed posting about but I'll go backwards and figure it out later. I have a paid imageshack account now
We got braces that would make a shark cum to its knees
There's things you could critique but for the purpose of getting something legit working butcher-free it's good. It'll keep the belt tension under boost from augering my 4.5" long 1/4" intercooler bolts into the aluminum which is the fear that prompted me to do the braces before installing & testing. Oh and also the alternator kinda needs more than one bolt holding it on.
It's getting pretty close. Still need some more minor bits. Also need to take care of some maintenance and shit on the car and figure out why It's shutting down on me sometimes - looks to be ignition-related.
Ok I sorta just decided to start goin ham on this project again. I'm just running into more and more stuff I need to do but the wheels are in motion again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5UPheKmFW0
A video looking at the somewhat thrown together intercooler circuit and the FGT shows up out of the blue. heyyyyy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5UPheKmFW0
A video looking at the somewhat thrown together intercooler circuit and the FGT shows up out of the blue. heyyyyy
Should be fixed. I foolishly tried to embed the youtube video with the youtube embed button. Right after that video I got to drive the car around some short trips with everything pretty much working. The first drives were shockingly problem-free. It doesn't like full boost for some reason. Once I finish the intercooler re-install I can get to that. I'm redoing it all though. Even the front mount is getting re-mounted so I can situate the plumbing better and also mount it to the car without any car hackery at all. I'm thinking ahead to putting it in the new nice riv and I'm doing/redoing everything to avoid so much as drilling any holes into anything that's not readily replaceable (the body mainly)
I don't know whether to post here or in my 'el tortuga' thread at this point but since the season is over and i'll be putting the turtle into hibernation after this weekend, here's the update.
FGT setup has some miles on it. - speaking of which, I've never seen my gas gauge go from freshly filled to 3/4 so fast as today - no joke 20min of driving
I did not make it to the track either of the two weekends I was planning because it was closed due to weather both times and it's probably for the best because as fate would have it, they would have pretty much been wasted days anyway.
The first week I figured out that my breaking up issue at full load was due to lack of fuel primarily on account of my easyperformance voltage booster quitting on me. It was working in pass-through and not boosting voltage ever. I threw my old magnavolt back in there which is a bit less juice but enough to eliminate the breaking up issue. I found out today that it's definitely still not enough but If I keep the boost down below 20psi or so, it keeps up and that's a nice bump in power still.
Oh the second day that I would have gone to the track, my old tuning laptop just sorta stopped booting up which kinda screwed me over too. That would have ended my 2nd would-be track day right away.
Today, I had some time and after getting my newer laptop set up for logging, I did some good road testing and got some good info. The thing makes fuckin power. with the exhaust completely choked with stock mufflers, I was still seeing up to about 11300hz at the maf after 70% scaling. Boost currently is steady 20psi until the upper 5k rpm and then it peaks up at like 23 and then fuel pressure very quickly starts disappearing. That's with the cutout closed and on that note...
After my driving around I spotted this and was like wtf obviously
then I looked underneath and saw this. Both new mufflers are literally busting open at the seams.
They can't handle the 3800 powers
What else?... I got the LS ignition all done with new wiring. It's been working fine. I installed my electric water pump. Works great as far as I can tell. All the wiring I did for the LS ignition, water pump, IC pump, etc. I integrated into the factory fuse/relay box under the hood using the unused spots in there so there's no more relays and shit just hangin out places. New boost controller works awesome which is a godsend after the nightmare I went through trying to make the easyperformance one work for me.
I've got some in-car footage on my gopro - i'll trim all the nonesense out and post it soon. Nothing too nuts
FGT setup has some miles on it. - speaking of which, I've never seen my gas gauge go from freshly filled to 3/4 so fast as today - no joke 20min of driving
I did not make it to the track either of the two weekends I was planning because it was closed due to weather both times and it's probably for the best because as fate would have it, they would have pretty much been wasted days anyway.
The first week I figured out that my breaking up issue at full load was due to lack of fuel primarily on account of my easyperformance voltage booster quitting on me. It was working in pass-through and not boosting voltage ever. I threw my old magnavolt back in there which is a bit less juice but enough to eliminate the breaking up issue. I found out today that it's definitely still not enough but If I keep the boost down below 20psi or so, it keeps up and that's a nice bump in power still.
Oh the second day that I would have gone to the track, my old tuning laptop just sorta stopped booting up which kinda screwed me over too. That would have ended my 2nd would-be track day right away.
Today, I had some time and after getting my newer laptop set up for logging, I did some good road testing and got some good info. The thing makes fuckin power. with the exhaust completely choked with stock mufflers, I was still seeing up to about 11300hz at the maf after 70% scaling. Boost currently is steady 20psi until the upper 5k rpm and then it peaks up at like 23 and then fuel pressure very quickly starts disappearing. That's with the cutout closed and on that note...
After my driving around I spotted this and was like wtf obviously
then I looked underneath and saw this. Both new mufflers are literally busting open at the seams.
They can't handle the 3800 powersWhat else?... I got the LS ignition all done with new wiring. It's been working fine. I installed my electric water pump. Works great as far as I can tell. All the wiring I did for the LS ignition, water pump, IC pump, etc. I integrated into the factory fuse/relay box under the hood using the unused spots in there so there's no more relays and shit just hangin out places. New boost controller works awesome which is a godsend after the nightmare I went through trying to make the easyperformance one work for me.
I've got some in-car footage on my gopro - i'll trim all the nonesense out and post it soon. Nothing too nuts
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