So about a year ago it started making this rattle noise. I checked all (or so I thought) heat shields and didn't notice anything out of place. As time went on it got louder and the range it would happen got larger, typically it would only happen between 2500 - 3500 rpms or so. GF wouldn't let me take it to the tranny shop at the time and just kept ignoring it.
It also has an aftermarket remote start. She's had issues with it here and there, alarm would randomly go off, once or twice when started via the remote the car wouldn't shut off even with the key out and the brake pedal pressed. It got so bad it doesn't start with the key 98% of the time anymore, you have to start it with the remote then insert the key and drive (I'm assuming (I'm possibly very wrong) all of this is tied to the aftermarket remote start system).
So the noise finally got bad enough about 2 months ago she let me swing by the trans shop. I walked in saying Nissan Rogue metallic rattling, screeching, ear piercing shit fest. (without them driving it or diagnosing it, which is my bad but by that time i have it in my mind the trans is bad) they say yup it needs a new CVT and give me a ball park price. I asked since its not rebuild-able if it was going to harm anything driving it till it craps out they told me stay close to home eventually it will get worse and not move at all. With this info we start saving and coming up with a game plan. 2 or 3 weeks later we are on the way to the dr, she's driving and the car barely moves from a stop. She's flooring it and it moves at a snail pace. we go to the dr, come out and she tells me to drive. it barely moves even while flooring it. once you get up to speed it accelerates better. ( its like its stuck in high gear) and also noticed the traction control and stability control light came on. We get it home and park it.
Decide we are tired of living the 1 car life and take it in last Wed to get the trans replaced. The shop thankfully drives it to diagnose it and says the noise was a heat shield, said it almost fooled them and it took 2 techs to find but they clamped it and the noise no longer exists (seriously don't know how a rattling shield makes a noise so loud you can hear it a couple blocks away.). He did say he noticed the tach flutter some, he was able to get the traction control, abs, and check engine light to turn on intermittently during the test drive. They pull codes and get p0725 along with a code for the stop light switch. (though they were talking about a vehicle speed sensor at first and wanted to check that circuit so I told them to do so). Aside from that one time the car wouldn't accelerate we haven't had any lights show. the shop said it probably didn't accelerate that time because it was in limp mode of sorts because of the sensor.
They call me today saying they think the cam shaft position sensor / circuit is the culprit but they are also thinking the remote start is causing issues. they suggest I get the remote start removed and then bring it back to finish diagnostics. I fully planned on having the remote start removed and replaced with a new properly working system. I'm pretty sure the remote start is causing it to not start with either of the 2 keys. I fail to see how the remote start is causing an issue with the crank sensor and feel like the shop is in over their head as this falls a little outside of transmission work. I don't think I will be bringing it back to them for this issue and will go with another shop I trust but I was wondering if you guys would have some insight/ opinions/ suggestions?
After reading this I realize it might be hard to follow. I apologize hopefully it makes enough sense.
It also has an aftermarket remote start. She's had issues with it here and there, alarm would randomly go off, once or twice when started via the remote the car wouldn't shut off even with the key out and the brake pedal pressed. It got so bad it doesn't start with the key 98% of the time anymore, you have to start it with the remote then insert the key and drive (I'm assuming (I'm possibly very wrong) all of this is tied to the aftermarket remote start system).
So the noise finally got bad enough about 2 months ago she let me swing by the trans shop. I walked in saying Nissan Rogue metallic rattling, screeching, ear piercing shit fest. (without them driving it or diagnosing it, which is my bad but by that time i have it in my mind the trans is bad) they say yup it needs a new CVT and give me a ball park price. I asked since its not rebuild-able if it was going to harm anything driving it till it craps out they told me stay close to home eventually it will get worse and not move at all. With this info we start saving and coming up with a game plan. 2 or 3 weeks later we are on the way to the dr, she's driving and the car barely moves from a stop. She's flooring it and it moves at a snail pace. we go to the dr, come out and she tells me to drive. it barely moves even while flooring it. once you get up to speed it accelerates better. ( its like its stuck in high gear) and also noticed the traction control and stability control light came on. We get it home and park it.
Decide we are tired of living the 1 car life and take it in last Wed to get the trans replaced. The shop thankfully drives it to diagnose it and says the noise was a heat shield, said it almost fooled them and it took 2 techs to find but they clamped it and the noise no longer exists (seriously don't know how a rattling shield makes a noise so loud you can hear it a couple blocks away.). He did say he noticed the tach flutter some, he was able to get the traction control, abs, and check engine light to turn on intermittently during the test drive. They pull codes and get p0725 along with a code for the stop light switch. (though they were talking about a vehicle speed sensor at first and wanted to check that circuit so I told them to do so). Aside from that one time the car wouldn't accelerate we haven't had any lights show. the shop said it probably didn't accelerate that time because it was in limp mode of sorts because of the sensor.
They call me today saying they think the cam shaft position sensor / circuit is the culprit but they are also thinking the remote start is causing issues. they suggest I get the remote start removed and then bring it back to finish diagnostics. I fully planned on having the remote start removed and replaced with a new properly working system. I'm pretty sure the remote start is causing it to not start with either of the 2 keys. I fail to see how the remote start is causing an issue with the crank sensor and feel like the shop is in over their head as this falls a little outside of transmission work. I don't think I will be bringing it back to them for this issue and will go with another shop I trust but I was wondering if you guys would have some insight/ opinions/ suggestions?
After reading this I realize it might be hard to follow. I apologize hopefully it makes enough sense.
