In order to 60' a stock-ish weight GTP well enough to get in the mid 12's would require a pretty small pulley. I was able to finagle a 14.1@99mph in mine (stock+tune 93 octane) but no matter what I did it was a dog off the line with the stock pulley/converter. A GT converter would be a very ideal/cheap upgrade and if you're handy enough the GT gearing would really help. It'd be no different than doing gears/converter on your cookie cutter Fbody setup. You're not going to gain a full second like one of those will, but it would certainly be .5 seconds pending the TQ that particular setup is making.
Weight will be the biggest enemy, the stock transmissions break if you look at them wrong. Some people get insanely lucky and some people break built transmissions on a shakedown run. This is definitely the #1 reason I would recommend choosing a different platform to drag race. You will go through the struggles of transmission troubles, you will spend more money than you ever budgeted and you WILL end up dumping the platform like everyone else that learned the same lesson.
You mean taking a converter out of a N/A GP GT, the gearing/chain and putting it into a Comp G? I thought the advantage was the 3.29 FDR? Since we have the transmission apart wouldn't make more sense to drop in the GXP 7/8 chain?
Assuming you were running on street tires, didn't you have to launch at a lower RPM and feather the throttle to keep from spinning the tires? M&H recommends starting at 15 psi. I found 10-12 psi worked on my Focus ST, launching at 4,000 rpm. More rpm would spin the slicks more (1.8+). As it was it was losing 1,200 rpm from the launch rpm until the clutch finally hooked up. I also was launching on the fuel cut, not ignition cut, no boost was being generated at launch.
Brake boosting would come in around 2500 rpm on the stock converter, that's a guess. What would it flash too after launch? I according to It Still Runs torque peak is at 5200 rpm (320 lbs).
Seems to me on ethanol it would make more torque from more aggressive ignition advance. I thought the stock pulley was 3.8 on the Series III, going down .8 is pretty aggressive no?
I could spend more and go down to 2.8 or 2.6 I guess but at what point so I have to start worrying about belt slippage?
Beyond all that, I never said, claimed or assumed this was a platform ideal to extract performance out of. Let's just for giggles say we swap in a 5 speed manual from the mid 90's GP's. You open up a whole different set of problems. It's possible to break an input shaft in those too; clutches designed to hold a ton of torque either mean a really stiff pedal or going with a very expensive twin disc setup. I know of one Fiero 3800 that runs a twin Tilton clutch ($$$) and his 60 ft times are in the 1.8's, in a RWD car; It requires looking at what happens with the clutch pedal a whole different way.
The W-body at this point is a very inexpensive performance car. It's likely I will overpay for it but I don't see anything else I want for that price point with potential this car has.
I talked via email with Dave @TEP, he said the stock trans will be fine up to about 375/400 hp if in good working order. After that the input shaft becomes the next problem, then the drive chain.
Maybe some people have bad luck and wheel hop does quite a bit of damage beyond just axles.