2000 Grand Am O2 Sensor

Marko

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
16,698
Reaction score
72
Service engine soon light came on and had Autozone check it for free. They said it’s the O2 sensor. Can I keep driving it for awhile without worrying about breaking down ? Don’t feel like spending money on it to get it fixed. It’s my DD

Doesn’t need emissions test this year either. Lol.
 

Marko

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
16,698
Reaction score
72
The car has a 4 cyl. In it.
 

boostedguy05

not well known
Donating Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
21,839
Reaction score
457
Sensor 2 is rear sensor. Cat might also be bad.
 

CMNTMXR57

GM & Holden Nutswinger
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
10,394
Reaction score
234
Location
Elgin
You'll be fine. This DTC is the result of the post-cat HO2S being below .400mV for a specified period of time. Usually in the 5 - 10 second window.

With this code, I would start looking at the wiring/connections/terminals/etc first. That is sometimes the issue with this code. Another trick if all wiring checks out and at least tide you over and save a few bucks in the interim, is to remove the sensor, clean it (the part that is in the exhaust stream), with something like a MAF or electronics cleaner, or even brakekleen, reinstall and see if that does it. I bet it's sooted up quite nicely which might be why. After checking the wiring, replacment of the sensor is next on the list IIRC.
 

b4black

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 6, 2008
Messages
1,052
Reaction score
0
Location
Oswego
Can I drive it for awhile without breaking down ?
Yes, the rear sensor will have no effect on the way the engine runs on a 2000. It just confirms the catalyst is working.
 

OffshoreDrilling

This is my safe space
Donating Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
29,164
Reaction score
163
Location
Chicago
You can get a rear O2 sensor for $18.15 on rock auto. I’d just change it instead of assuming that the CEL is for the sensor then having something else go wrong and unnoticed.
 

CMNTMXR57

GM & Holden Nutswinger
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
10,394
Reaction score
234
Location
Elgin
The sensor may actually be fine though. The bulk of the troubleshooting for this diagnostic is wiring issues. Chaffed, worn through, shorting out harnesses. Pulled connectors/terminals, etc. The last step is actual sensor replacement. I think they even recommend to replace the PCM first before the actual sensor in this particular code, which is out of GM's normal step by step process eliminating things from cheapest to most expensive. Usually PCM replacement is the last. So the emphasis is on the wiring here.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Top Bottom