shit is way too fancy. Plus that's the Jag/Ford era. Mine was built by British craftsmen, aka chain smoking English drunks fighting at soccer matches and building meh cars
🔧 BUILD 1984 Jaguar XJ6.0
- Thread starter nsogiba
- Start date
Slow but steady progress here in WNY. Many warm days means activities outside with my wife and two little ones. Work on the XJ6.0 usually happens after they're tucked in for the night as the sun goes down.
Cold side complete - non intercooled for the time being. 10psi max boost to start with and ethanol for fuel means it won't be really necessary. I am planning on mounting the radiator (a 4th Gen LT1 Camaro replacement) as far back as I can to leave room for a future air to air IC.
Engine beauty covers on, hood installed and aligned, getting closer to a first fire. Still a LOT to do including Terminator X install, build a fuel system, trans cooler lines, tons of little stuff.
Cold side complete - non intercooled for the time being. 10psi max boost to start with and ethanol for fuel means it won't be really necessary. I am planning on mounting the radiator (a 4th Gen LT1 Camaro replacement) as far back as I can to leave room for a future air to air IC.
Engine beauty covers on, hood installed and aligned, getting closer to a first fire. Still a LOT to do including Terminator X install, build a fuel system, trans cooler lines, tons of little stuff.
Lots of progress, no pictures to show for it. Every time I get out in the garage after putting the kids to bed I just jam the work out and get in the zone.
Trans cooler (40K) mounted and plumbed.
Stock Jaguar throttle cable hooked up; I had to modify and extend the LS throttle cable bracket. The pedal is a bit stiff so I might remove one or both springs that are mounted on the pedal.
Radiator is mounted and rad hoses are done. Bottom is a typical LS1 Camaro hose, upper is a stock truck hose that I cut up and spliced to snake under the charge pipe.
Heater hoses were a pain due to the way the hotside crowds the passenger side. I ran 2 90* hoses around the front of the motor and back down the driver's side to feed the heater core and surge tank. Originally I was going to use an Audi B7 A4 tank due to the large capacity and mounting tabs, but I did some more digging and actually found a much nicer option from a 2005-2010+ Equinox. The mounting tabs are for a vertical wall application meaning they're well suited to older cars that don't have the weird contours of modern vehicles. The outlet exits straight out the bottom which makes it easy to tee into the heater return, and the steam vent/deaeration line exits horizontally. 15psi cap and a nice compact package, all available at your local Pick and Pull for under $10.
The newer models have a modern black plastic top while the older ones are fully clear.
Next up:
Cleaning up engine bay wiring
Terminator X Install
Fuel Cell Install
Exhaust
Draining the ancient gas inside. You don't have to try very hard to smell this photo. Both tanks were completely full and unfortunately the Philips headed screws fastening the body covers under the tanks seem to be frozen completely solid, so removal of the tanks will have to wait. No harm in leaving them in place for now. When I get around to removing them, if they're in good shape, I may list them for sale.
Trans cooler (40K) mounted and plumbed.
Stock Jaguar throttle cable hooked up; I had to modify and extend the LS throttle cable bracket. The pedal is a bit stiff so I might remove one or both springs that are mounted on the pedal.
Radiator is mounted and rad hoses are done. Bottom is a typical LS1 Camaro hose, upper is a stock truck hose that I cut up and spliced to snake under the charge pipe.
Heater hoses were a pain due to the way the hotside crowds the passenger side. I ran 2 90* hoses around the front of the motor and back down the driver's side to feed the heater core and surge tank. Originally I was going to use an Audi B7 A4 tank due to the large capacity and mounting tabs, but I did some more digging and actually found a much nicer option from a 2005-2010+ Equinox. The mounting tabs are for a vertical wall application meaning they're well suited to older cars that don't have the weird contours of modern vehicles. The outlet exits straight out the bottom which makes it easy to tee into the heater return, and the steam vent/deaeration line exits horizontally. 15psi cap and a nice compact package, all available at your local Pick and Pull for under $10.
The newer models have a modern black plastic top while the older ones are fully clear.
Next up:
Cleaning up engine bay wiring
Terminator X Install
Fuel Cell Install
Exhaust
Draining the ancient gas inside. You don't have to try very hard to smell this photo. Both tanks were completely full and unfortunately the Philips headed screws fastening the body covers under the tanks seem to be frozen completely solid, so removal of the tanks will have to wait. No harm in leaving them in place for now. When I get around to removing them, if they're in good shape, I may list them for sale.
I didn't plan on using the tanks. Even if they're clean, the plumbing gets complicated quick. In order to run a single external pump I would need to tee the supply together, which means the returns would split to feed each tank individually too. I'm told by the crusties on the Jag forums that if the car is parked on any sort of lateral incline the fuel from the higher tank will then run into the lower tank and over flow it.
So, I plan on running a fuel cell and already purchased one. One cell, one pump, one supply, one return. I just wanted to drain the old things to remove any potential fire hazard and all that dead weight. Lol
So, I plan on running a fuel cell and already purchased one. One cell, one pump, one supply, one return. I just wanted to drain the old things to remove any potential fire hazard and all that dead weight. Lol
Randoms shots installing the catch can, cooling system/heater hoses, and general engine bay. I took off the compressor cover to allow easier access while installing the turbo oil drain, which is an extended 4" 10AN and drains into the pan above the oil level.
Exhaust is done, painted and wrapped. Full 3" up to the stock catback (resonators and mufflers) with a cutout dumping by the oil pan.
Exhaust is done, painted and wrapped. Full 3" up to the stock catback (resonators and mufflers) with a cutout dumping by the oil pan.
Removing the stock fuel pump, filter, and other ancillaries from the trunk well.
The old trunk mats/carpets left a fine furr all over everything, so I vacuumed it out to clean it up a bit.
Spilled a bit of gas disconnecting the old lines, so some ventilation to clear it up:
New fuel cell mocked up - I made some straps to bolt it right to the trunk floor with some foam mat to insulate it from direct contact. It's a 20 gallon cell with a flat bottom (no sump), 0-90ohm sender and -8AN outlets throughout. Fuel will be 93 pump to start and once I get the car up and running, I'll start to introduce ethanol.
The top of the cell sits below the lip of the trunk side, so I'll make up a new cargo cover to allow the trunk to be used. For anyone lamenting the loss of the spare tire, none of my other cars (mostly BMWs) have had spares. This is not a daily driver for me anyhow, so the likelihood of needing one is very low.
The old trunk mats/carpets left a fine furr all over everything, so I vacuumed it out to clean it up a bit.
Spilled a bit of gas disconnecting the old lines, so some ventilation to clear it up:
New fuel cell mocked up - I made some straps to bolt it right to the trunk floor with some foam mat to insulate it from direct contact. It's a 20 gallon cell with a flat bottom (no sump), 0-90ohm sender and -8AN outlets throughout. Fuel will be 93 pump to start and once I get the car up and running, I'll start to introduce ethanol.
The top of the cell sits below the lip of the trunk side, so I'll make up a new cargo cover to allow the trunk to be used. For anyone lamenting the loss of the spare tire, none of my other cars (mostly BMWs) have had spares. This is not a daily driver for me anyhow, so the likelihood of needing one is very low.
The 20 gallon actually sits just a bit below the shoulders of the trunk liner so I can just make a new floor out of some plywood and carpeting and call it done. I cut up the original trunk floor cover to use as an insulator between the cell and the sheetmetal, and with the size of the car (aka bad economy) and additional fuel requirements of E85 I wanted to get as much capacity as I could.
Very nice.
I'm cruising on an external Bosch 044 (runs from one sump line) and plumbed up a 2nd pump for big boost.
A friend of mine has a swapped '67 Chevelle and his external pump is kinda far away from the sump but I've never seen him have problems with it.
Yeah I would think you could technically have the pump fairly far away (like 5', under the car), but as long as it's mounted level with the bottom of the tank, gravity will continue to feed it regardless.
One thing I'm on the fence about is the fuel pump, it's an amazon brand Evil Energy 400 l/h unit. For the price I actually bought two of them and it was still cheaper than one AEM 400. I'll keep the other one in the car and if it takes a shit I'll change it on the road.
They are out there in nice shape, just have to keep your eyes open. That price is crack pipe though for a non running car. I paid WAY less for mine in non running condition.
1986 Jaguar XJ6 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale
Garage kept for ten plus years, doesn’t run but need much. It’s turned over with just fresh oil and gas.chicago.craigslist.org
I spent the last few weeks wrapping up the fuel system. It consists of the following:
20 gallon flat bottom fuel cell with -8AN rollover valve vented under the trunk floor
-8AN feed to coarse prefilter
-10AN feed to 400lph pump
-8AN feed to C5 FPR
-8AN return to top of fuel cell
-6AN feed under the car to fuel rail
-Flex sensor plumbed inline with feed
I filled the cell with about 7 gallons of fresh 93 pump just to check for leaks and found none (on the pump suction side, at least). I need to run the pump manually to prime the system and see if there are any leaks on the pressure side of the pump. Also installed the Lowdoller fuel pressure sensor on the rail after taking out the Schrader valve to be able to see if the pump can keep up.
While I am waiting on some AN fittings I decided to jump into the Terminator X install. It's mostly plug and play, just a matter of routing things neatly in the engine bay to prevent damage from heat and moving parts. That being said there are some loose wires to connect which I saved for last. I hate wiring, it usually means uncomfortable positions.
The ECU will live in the glovebox. It's very compact so there will still be room for documents, etc. My goal is to leave the interior looking as stock as possible. There will be no modifications except to the gauge cluster.
I have a new fuel gauge that uses the correct 0-90ohm resistance range compatible with the sender in the fuel cell, and the tach will be driven via the output on the TermX. I would like to use the stock speedo by driving it with a configured output from the ECU but haven't really looked into the details yet.
The interior is a bit of a mess at the moment but will go back together once I run the fuel pump trigger wire and the sender signal wire to the trunk.
Last but not least - check out that front ride height!
It settled in quite a bit due to a couple of reasons:
-Removed 15 gallons of fuel from the stock tanks, which transferred weight to the front
-Jumped up and down on the front bumper to "settle" the springs which was good for another half inch or so
-Added all the accessories under the hood like the engine harness, fan harness, and fluids (engine oil, coolant, power steering), and battery.
Keep in mind this is stock springs (uncut to preserve ride quality), 2x spring packers removed (you may have seen them in the trunk), and 3/4" spring pan drop.
Hoping to have the first startup next week!
20 gallon flat bottom fuel cell with -8AN rollover valve vented under the trunk floor
-8AN feed to coarse prefilter
-10AN feed to 400lph pump
-8AN feed to C5 FPR
-8AN return to top of fuel cell
-6AN feed under the car to fuel rail
-Flex sensor plumbed inline with feed
I filled the cell with about 7 gallons of fresh 93 pump just to check for leaks and found none (on the pump suction side, at least). I need to run the pump manually to prime the system and see if there are any leaks on the pressure side of the pump. Also installed the Lowdoller fuel pressure sensor on the rail after taking out the Schrader valve to be able to see if the pump can keep up.
While I am waiting on some AN fittings I decided to jump into the Terminator X install. It's mostly plug and play, just a matter of routing things neatly in the engine bay to prevent damage from heat and moving parts. That being said there are some loose wires to connect which I saved for last. I hate wiring, it usually means uncomfortable positions.
The ECU will live in the glovebox. It's very compact so there will still be room for documents, etc. My goal is to leave the interior looking as stock as possible. There will be no modifications except to the gauge cluster.
I have a new fuel gauge that uses the correct 0-90ohm resistance range compatible with the sender in the fuel cell, and the tach will be driven via the output on the TermX. I would like to use the stock speedo by driving it with a configured output from the ECU but haven't really looked into the details yet.
The interior is a bit of a mess at the moment but will go back together once I run the fuel pump trigger wire and the sender signal wire to the trunk.
Last but not least - check out that front ride height!
It settled in quite a bit due to a couple of reasons:
-Removed 15 gallons of fuel from the stock tanks, which transferred weight to the front
-Jumped up and down on the front bumper to "settle" the springs which was good for another half inch or so
-Added all the accessories under the hood like the engine harness, fan harness, and fluids (engine oil, coolant, power steering), and battery.
Keep in mind this is stock springs (uncut to preserve ride quality), 2x spring packers removed (you may have seen them in the trunk), and 3/4" spring pan drop.
Hoping to have the first startup next week!
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