🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

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1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

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Mar 22, 2005
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Sorry no pics again this week, I barely got any good video recordings to work with either.

So the Cam is in, it spins but I have no clue how freely it is supposed to spin. It doesn't bind up and has constant resistance throughout its travel. I can spin it with just my fingers but it takes a little bit of effort Again not sure if this is acceptable as I haven't changed a cam on a pushrod motor in 25 years.

Pistons are in, I started to torque the rod bolts but after doing it redneck engineering style figured why not just by a torque angle wrench and do it right. So that is on order and will be here this week. I started mocking up the windage tray and oil pan and realized that Holley doesn't give you a new oil pan gasket so that is also on order. I also did not realize you have to hack the front 1/4 section of the windage tray off. Not sure why but I had it in my brain you just needed to cut a small section for the new oil pickup tube.

Aside from torquing the rod bolts and hacking some more off the windage tray and installing the oil pan. I need to clean up the front timing cover press in the new seal and install the lifters. Then it should be a assembled short block.

Then I'll just bag the motor till I decide on the heads. Then I'll be moving onto the firewall bodywork. Ideally I'd like to have the firewall and inner fender areas all painted before I put the motor/trans in. I don't know how likely that will be since later on I still have to cut and install bulkheads for the electrical and hvac. Thinking it all through I know that motor will have to come in and out 2-3 times at least, I'm just wishing I don't have to.
 
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cap42

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Based off an SBC that seems about right. A bit of stiction but not difficult to do.

Did you get a new o-ring for the oil pump? Captain obvious question but man those are a pain in the jimmy if you have to replace one and they're known for shrinking.
yes technically I have 3. The new melling pump came with 2 types of o-rings based on the pickup tube type. The new holley pan did supply a new pickup tube and matching o-ring which is what is installed and seems to be the right one to use.
 
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cap42

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Shortblock is finally assembled, hacked off what I needed on the windage tray for the oil pan to clear, cleaned up the front cover and found out I never got the front seal so need to order that up. Made a quick video just to get some content up on youtube since it's been several months.



With all of that I still had time so I decided to start on the firewall bodywork. I'd love to just focus on the engine bay and get that 100% painted etc and drop the motor/trans in. But I know I'll have to cut holes or mounting points and doing that on fresh paint would be no bueno. So I'll just do the bodywork on the firewall first, by then I should have the heads and make the motor a longblock. Next nova video should be the bodywork process but for right now I'll just insert a pic.

firewall bodywork.jpg


That is the second round of filler applied, both times I added too much activator. With the temps being what they were it setup way too fast. Next time out I'll block that down and go for the next round of filler, using much less activator I should get more working time before it sets. It's gonna get a whole lot uglier before it gets better.
 

cap42

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I've been eyeing them for years, I want....every year HD has a big sale on them over the fall and I never pull the trigger. You should do a video install
I got this one from Costco, just over 1500 shipped to my door. I will be doing a video on this as I see it being a video that will get tons of activity.
 
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cap42

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how does 12K size out for your garage? Mine is about 400 sq feet and I put a 7500W heater in and it didn't do squat in the winter. Then again I have a gabled roof and no insulation either.
My garage is 450 sq ft. but open non insulated ceiling. I have a 14-18k BTU (yes it's a range of BTU) electric heater that I have used for years but it's fan is only active when the heating coils are, so it takes a bit to heat the garage and there are large hot/cold zones unless it's been running for 8 hours. IMO that has been it's biggest downfall as unit cycles a lot to keep it from thermal overload.

With the mini split I can set the fan to always be on which I hope will be more efficient pushing heat around. If not I will still have a propane heater and the current electric unit to turn on for supplemental heat generation.
 
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cap42

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Pro Stock John Pro Stock John
Unfortunately I need access to the attic in the garage for storage. My house is storage challenged so I'll never be able to close off the ceiling.


Mini Split arrived, but I did something to my shoulder I doubt I could install this solo right now, I'm thinking it's going to be a bit before I can tackle this install.

I was able to do moar bodywork on the firewall. Still a few rounds to go till it's finished.

firewall bodywork2.jpg
 
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stock-t-bird

THORNTON QUARRY
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well done sir..yep,needs its own thread..only thing it needs is heat pump stand..no concrete pad needed,Chicago snow might hurt it in Winter mode.It basically raises the condenser from snow..which might happen?
18 x 36 pad w/frame..deal with them all day.

i sell pad/stand if you need help i can give for free.?..far South Subs...you did well
 

cap42

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Mar 22, 2005
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well done sir..yep,needs its own thread..only thing it needs is heat pump stand..no concrete pad needed,Chicago snow might hurt it in Winter mode.It basically raises the condenser from snow..which might happen?
18 x 36 pad w/frame..deal with them all day.

i sell pad/stand if you need help i can give for free.?..far South Subs...you did well

Supposedly there is a de-icer or thaw mode that the condenser turns on, I have to read up on it more. I really wish I could have done the wall hang option vs the pad. But then this thing would be visible from the sidewalk so from an aesthetics perspective no bueno, also we have a lot of scrappers and petty thieves. I'd be worried that they would rip the thing off the wall to sell for scrap.

I probably should have thought about a stand before I opened the refrigerant lines. I'm not sure I'd be able to move the condenser without unhooking the lines and re-route them, it's a bit of a shit show with the excess line as is.
 

cap42

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Mar 22, 2005
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Welp it's been a bit since I've just posted pics of progress. I recorded a bunch of video but didn't feel like editing it to put on youtube yet.

P PJx5x has a set of heads for me, once I get those from him I'll work on mating the motor and trans and slapping it into the subframe. I'll still need to paint the motor before hand. Knowing that will be coming I started doing some bodywork on the firewall and cut the hole for the steering column.

IMG_1553.JPG


I then finally unboxed my holley trans cross member, should have done that years ago. I bought a replacement rear trans mount since my trans didn't have one only to find out the instructions say I need to order a special one. Well we will see about that when I actually fit the fucker in there.

IMG_1554.JPG


I'm most likely going to drop the subframe out to install the cross member. I also want to flip the car around in the garage, well there isn't enough room to flip the car in one piece inside the garage and without brakes or a drivetrain I don't think I could safely do it in my driveway. So subrame will come out, I'll swing just the rear body of the car around and reattach the subframe after the cross member is installed.

During all of this I decided to do a bit of bodywork. I don't know why but I actually enjoy zoning out and just sanding for hours on end.

This is the passenger rear quarter, I sprayed some etching primer on to protect the burn through to bare metal but also to get an idea of how close the rough in of the body work was.

IMG_1558.JPG


Here is the driver quarter, this was only one round of filler, normally for the rough ins it's 2-4 times to apply it and do corrections. I have to do some hammer/dolly work for the high spots, then rinse repeat with the mud.

IMG_1559.JPG
 

cap42

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Mar 22, 2005
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Slacking on updates...

Bought new body filler, went with Rage Ultra, got some new sanding blocks from Big Kid blocks. Should have videos of bodywork process/how-to's in the next few weeks.

The big update is thanks to P PJx5x

He sold me a set of cleaned and freshly decked 243's, helped me install valve seals and the springs for this cam on those heads and then even gave me a new crank pulley/balancer and a brand new water pump.

This weekend I tried to install all of it to seal up the motor so I can prep it for paint. Ran into a hiccups as always. First up I bought a new set of MLS factory gaskets, however these gaskets are slightly different than the factory gaskets. There is a open port on the rear of the gasket for the coolant passage but my block doesn't have that spot open. I'm not sure if it's a gasket from a later block or if it's just a universal gasket with the coolant port open on front and back. I'll do research on that this week.

The other problem is there is a lot of gunk in the threads on the block, go figure I've got 50+ taps but not one the size I need. So I'll need to figure out that size and order up a tap so I can chase the threads and clean them up.

I painted the holley 302 oil pan, valley cover and the front cover, did these in a 2k ceramic gloss black. Was going to do the valve covers but I'm most likely going to shave off the mounting boss for the coil packs or go with a complete set of covers so I didn't paint my factories.

Once I get the tap, figure out the head gasket and get a new valley cover gasket I'll be able to sand on the block and get it prepped and painted. Block will be chevy orange in the same type of 2k ceramic.

IMG_1567.JPGIMG_1568.JPGIMG_1569.JPG
 

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