Thanks for the offer PJ but I bought that flywheel tool from Amazon for $30 bucks, and got the bolt out. Such a stupid little tool I was surprised it worked with no issues.I have the standard flywheel lock tool you can borrow for as long as you need. Also have a tool I designed for work that bolts onto the crank (in place of a flywheel) and locks onto the bell housing dowel and bolt. But I’d need that back quick just in case
New video posted, title of the video says it all.
Still debating what cam I should throw in this thing, cams in general are hard to figure out unless you really know all about how they work. I'm not that guy, so I've been relying on youtube videos and info posted on ls sites. For those of you who don't watch the video. I was all set to buy the Comp 54-459-11 cam until I found it they want you to run their valve spring which is $330. The cam being $470-500 I just couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger on it. So for now I'm back to the drawing board.
The reason I liked the 459 cam was with 243/799 heads (which I'm still looking for) even with the truck intake I would be close to my power goal of 400rwhp n/a. Had decent lope at idle but nothing crazy to affect low speed driveability. It also didn't require a high stall converter as this car will only be a street car. I know there are literally dozens if not hundreds of cams out there for LS motors but that makes it more difficult not easier .
Until I figure out the cam and springs needed, the motor is just getting the bag thrown back over it for now. I have to get back to metal work so as soon as the weather is nicer I can spray the car in epoxy. Wife and I are on the kick again of selling the house this year and it feels like it will happen so the car needs to be transport and storage worthy for a bit.
Nothing special, looking to make 400+ to the tire with cam and 243/799 heads. Not looking for peak HP/TQ numbers just a solid curve with good average power in the mid rpm range. I'd like to keep the rev limit around 6300. Lastly I do want a lope to the idle, nothing drastic just enough to fit the classic muscle car look/sound. 99% street driven car, it may see the drag strip once or twice just to see what it can do. I may take it to a HPDE once or twice but that's it.The rear end gears, tire size, weight, trans, etc. all change what cam you might need. Stock stall is not good with almost any cam if the gears are low numbered. The stall would help the car more than a cam if I had to pick only one. The last thing is tuning. I did an LS9 cam in a 5.3 but with the stock active smoothing in the ecm I used the idle wasn't changed. The timing and fueling logs were worlds apart but it idled how it was set. What are you looking for in a cam?
I was a little surprised their website didn't have more info. This is the stage 3 camBTR cam grinds are good, don't they have pretty good descriptions on the website too? Would you pair their cam with a set of their 660 valve springs?
What trans are you running?
If you plan to keep a tight converter the big cams will fight you some at idle, you'll be pushing pretty hard on the brake idle at light.