🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

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1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
With it not being so hot this weekend I got 2 full days in the garage, WHEW!

As of this morning all the undercoating is scrapped off and I just started sanding down the old primer and rust. The scrapping of the undercoating wasn't so bad as most of it was soft from absorbing engine/trans fluids. There were a few spots that required some heavy elbow grease. The sanding its going to take a lot more time as there are lots of tight areas that I can't get with my air tools. I was running my compressor almost non stop and it's got my contemplating upgrading to a more capable unit.

Here's a few pics, took another video saturday when I was halfway through which I will be posting as soon as it's been rendered.


Top section no undercoating, bottom half untouched.
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No more undercoating

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This is all the shit I scrapped off, doesn't look like much but it is a decent sized pile.

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Next up I will sand down as much as I can to prep for new epoxy. This phase will most likely take me a few weekends. I will be addressing the old welds, some of the finish welding I never got around to. I will also be adding a block off plate to close up the area going to the old charcoal canister which is attached to the back seat brace. There are a few holes from self tapping screws which I will close up, those were from exhaust hangers and gas/brake line brackets.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Was in the garage at least a few hours every day during this holiday weekend. I am sore as fuck today. 90 percent of the car is stripped to bare metal (excluding the replaced panels, they still have the EDP coating).

I still have the tight areas that I will need to hand sand or find a decent attachment for a dremel or something. I also spent time cleaning up some welds on the trunk pan and rear driver pan. I still have a ton of welding and grinding to do. Here's a few pics.

This was as of saturday.
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This was as of yesturday (Monday)

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And even 5 years of owning this car I am still dumbfounded by the stupid shit I find on this car. Look at the pic first.

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This is from the inside of the car where the B&M shifter was mounted. There are 9 holes here, the holes to the right were through the floorpan and the cross brace for the seats. The left (or front) the tunnel was smashed flat and low and behold more JBWELD was found. I have to think how I am going to fix this, it's between just welding up the holes and hammer/dolly the tunnel back into shape or just cut it all out and make a new patch.

I'm tempted to make a video of shit not to do and using the various examples of headscratching shit done to this car. Maybe....
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
While there was a lot of work done this weekend if I were to show you pics you would all go say doesn't look that different. Now that the major sections are all cleaned up I spent all my time on the hard to reach areas such as the corners and tight areas where the tools don't fit so it's all manual labor. So that is why there are no pics (ya I know lame update).

On another note I am compressor shopping again, my compressor's pump assembly is making a ton of noise again which isn't surprising as I am always running the damn thing ragged. So it's time I upgrade to a unit that can handle the cfm requirements and not have to run at 100% duty cycle. In preparation for upcoming paint I should also take this opportunity to upgrade the air filtration as well.


I'm torn between these 2 units. The first being a scroll compressor which is advertised as being designed to run 100% duty cycle. Ignore that it's from Eastwood. :p


Says it's 12.7 cfm @ 90psi

Or this traditional style pump compressor which is right sized for my air needs.


This is 18.1 cfm @90psi

The scroll compressor is intriguing due to it being designed to run all the time, it's warranty and pump life are pretty astonishing. It's not exactly brand new tech, but for Eastwood it is and while their tools are really good for the DIY guy they are not at the same standard as pro's. The big plus of it being Eastwood is their support is the best around. Anytime I've had issues with anything of theirs a replacement or part is on my doorstep in a few days with no bullshit hoops or questions. It's cfm rating is a bit shy of my DA and sandblasting cabinet requirements. Both of those require 14.3 cfm and the rule of thumb is add 20% of that to get your true air requirements. Supposed pro's have done online reviews that show regardless of it's cfm rating it can handle multiple guys running DA's without needing to stop and this is supposedly due to the 100% duty cycle. While the unit being advertised as quiet seems appealing until you do further research, each time the pump shuts off it has to bleed excess air to the atmosphere and that is as loud or louder than a standard compressor. Plus all my air tools make a shit ton of noise so it doesn't matter.

The IR unit has some older bad reviews of the pump head life. The pump head is also only rated for 5000 hours of use. This is the same as my Husky with a Campbell pump head and I've been through 2 of those in the last 10 years. This unit makes me question if I will have the same problems a year or two down the road or if the higher cfm will mean I won't have to work it as hard and it will last longer. The only other negative is this thing is a beast at 450pds. My current 60 gal I can lift myself and move it around my garage.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Nothing exciting going on here, still working on this rusty shitbox. It's all been small detail work which is why I haven't posted updates.

Almost ready to spray epoxy, I'll get to this further in a bit.

First up there was a lot of areas that I had to hand sand or get to with dremel attachments and even then I couldn't get all the rust out. So I hit some of those areas with fast etch. While this stuff works great for converting rust it still needs to be cleaned up before you can put any top coats on.

Here's a before/after of a tight area in the corner of a floorpan.

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This is the drop off pan area near the trunk floor.

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During this process I've also been cleaning up my welds, this is where I was literally doing a half assed job. Since I was welding things from the top and not preping things on the other side of the metal I had some serious shit welds and a lot of contamination. That goes for all the floor pans, the trunk floor etc. So I cleaned up all the areas, grinding down the excess weld prouds and re-welded some areas. The shock cross member was the biggest area that took nearly a full day just in itself.

All done now. It's not perfect but with paint and undercoating on it will look good. I still need to close up the excess holes from the charcoal canister and where previous owners just drilled screws in random areas.

IMG_0733.JPG

Here is where I come to my conundrum, This is the brace and mount for the drivers forward subframe. I need to figure out what I am doing here before I spray epoxy and bedliner on as the brace as it covers almost half of the front driver floorpan.

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It's not something I can fix while the car is on the jig. I would have to flip the car back and cut out this rotted area. I still have to look and see if they make this as a replacement piece or if I need to fabricate it from scratch. I'm tempted to spray the car in epoxy flip it over fix this and then touch the area needed and then spray bed liner. This just puts a wrench in the timeframe of getting the undercarriage sprayed before it got too cold.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Well it's par for the course with this shitbox. One step forward 2 steps back. I haven't updated in a few weeks as I was contemplating what I was going to do with the new rust section I found. I also have to admit I fucked this up a few years ago when I put the driver floorpan in. I knew there was some rust there but couldn't see it from the underneath and only realized it when I was welding in the toe section of the floorboard. It kept burning through so in typical fashion I yolo'd it and just kept welding in boogers to close up the holes. I should have stopped and inspected it better and fixed it then and saved myself doing work twice and wasting weeks of my time that could have been spent progressing this clusterfuck of a build.

What you see in this pic is the rats nest that has been holding in moisture in this inner rocker section. This is what has caused all the problems. The rot is in the forward facing section of the inner rocker which is why I never saw the rot when I was welding a few years back putting in the toe section of the floor pan.

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So I decided to fix it right and be done with all of it and be damned with how long it will take me.

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Yup that's right I cut out the whole floorboard. This needed to be done, the section that's rotted is part of the inner rocker panel, the floorpan connects to this and then runs to the forward section of the outer rocker. I could have just patched it but water would have found a way in and it would rot again down the road. So I cut out the floorpan, now I am just trying to figure out how to make this all work with the least amount of patch panels. In hindsight I should have just cut out the toe section of the floorboard and left the floor pan section in place as it was perfectly fine. I'm just a glutton for making more work for myself.

I need one patch panel for rotted inner/outer rocker.

Since I cut out the floorpan I ordered a replacement floorpan, unfortunately it didn't come with the toe section of the floorpan. So I will either need to use the previous toe section of the floorpan or make one from scratch.

I also need to fix the trans tunnel above the area seen in the 2nd pic. You saw those pics previously, there is a crack running down the center, it was also drilled like swiss cheese for the floor shifter.

All in I need to weld in at least 4 sections of the prefabbed or hand made patch panels. This is going to take me a little while, meanwhile this was the only thing holding me up from spraying epoxy and bedliner and being done with this portion of the build.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
They sell toe board patches. Also there are inner rockers (I have A set and a few cut off pieces if you need). There is also inner and outer cowl lower sections. I had similar issues with the Chevelle I'm doing. Took it all out and am happy I did.

I'll most likely need to purchase a new toe board section, cutting out the old floorpan left me with too big a gap to weld it back in after looking at it some more.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Didn't take any pictures of progress this week, got a video uploading to youtube at the moment.

This post is to talk about 2 things.

For the Nova, the holley cross member for the 4L80e finally arrived, damn thing has been on back order for months. Once the undercarrigae is painted I am going to strip the subframe again paint it and then install the motor/trans together and then hook the subframe to the car. With this part arriving all of that should go quickly. I just need to get through this floorpan fiasco and get to painting the bottom of the car.

Next item is kinda sorta for the car, kinda garage update.

I'll just leave this here.

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Intel

TCG Elite Member
Oct 28, 2009
5,889
3,357
Palatine
Thats a lot of CFM if those number are true. If you don't already have a method to cool the air coming out of it I would recommend it highly. I can't believe how much water I pull out of my air when sanding/spraying. I ran this setup with black pipe and 4 ball valves and it as worked great. I get almost no water at my seperators.

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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
Supposedly it's accurate for the CFM. It's not a 2 stage compressor so it will keep the heat down a bit. My old compressor was single stage and still made quite a bit of water though. I do have some galvanized pipe leading to a water separator but it's only 2 bends and 6ft away. I need to extend it so the water cools better before it hits the separator. It's just been one of those things I put off, now that the newer compressor is here and I will be painting I need to get to fixing it.
 

Intel

TCG Elite Member
Oct 28, 2009
5,889
3,357
Palatine
I sprayed all of our cabinets for an island in our kitchen and pulled out almost 2 cups of water out of just those 2 ball valves. I couldn't believe how much heat the 60 gal compressor I had was putting out. Hoping to use it to spray the interior and exterior of the datsun this winter. Been following your ordeal and not looking forward to all the work ahead of me. Just have to keep "grinding" and it will eventually get done.
 

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