🔧 BUILD 1971 Nova - Work in Progress

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1971 Nova - Insanity in Progress

I bought this Nova last year when I sold my mustang, I was a active member here when this was CSVT so all the info of my old car is still on this site. Some of you know me from other sites as well as some of the old CSVT members who are still around. I apologize in advance for being a little long winded.

I was looking to get back into a classic muscle car that I could restore and modify to my liking. I choose a Nova since they are cheap and my wife wanted it to be a chevy. I enjoy all makes/models domestic or import which is why I enjoy TCG.

Specs:
1971 2 Door Nova factory v8 auto

Engine
350 block 383 stroker
Cam - unknown (I have several cam cards from the previous owners not sure which one is installed)
Rods/pistons - unknown
Heads - stock
Edelbrock intake - unknown which model
Holley 750 double pumper

Trans
700R4
3200 Stall
Shift Kit - Jegs brand

Rearend
10 bolt 8.5
3:56 gears

I knew the car needed some work before I bought it....I just underestimated how bad some of it was going to be. When I got the car the owner I purchased it from had just primer bombed the car and splatter painted the trunk (was still fresh when I went to look at the car). I would have still bought the car but would have negotiated a better price, but hey live and learn. The guy I bought the car from purchased the car from an elderly couple in Ohio who had a binder of documentation which was a huge selling point to me. Unfortunately I didn't look closely to see that the receipts didn't have much specific information. So the documentation only shows dates and what parts were replaced not what they were replaced with (for the most part anyways.) Again no biggie.

The car had 3 paint jobs in it's life plus the primer the guy I bought the car from put on it. Under the primer was a Suzuki gold that was applied in 2002. (what a FUGLY ass color) under the gold was a red. Whenever the red was put on the car it also had extensive body filler applied but no rust or sheet metal repair, more on that later. Under the red was a factory correct blue. The cowl tag says the car should be Sandalwood, while I did find it on a few parts of the car this leads me to believe someone painted the car early on in it's life or worse someone swapped the vin and cowl tag to another car :dunno: . Also there were a few spots where Green was found, I'm assuming a donor car or junk yard parts replacement. To be honest with all the documentation I have it just confuses things even further. The car was also in a few fender benders, the worst being the passenger front fender.

In 2001 the whole suspension was replaced with stock equipment minus air shocks, this was also when the whole drive line was overhauled and the engine was turned into a 383 stroker. I'm just guessing and based on some info I've accumulated from Steves Nova Site SNS, everyone seems to agree this theoretical combo should be around 350-400hp 400+tq.

I drove the car for a few weeks and fixed some legal and safety equipment such as putting on the rear bumper, side mirrors and attaching the seat belts. The car actually drives pretty good, has some good low end torque and the trans shifts firm. These were all the reasons I purchased the car as I didn't want to blow the budget replacing the mechanical's right away while I concentrated on restoring the body and getting it in paint. I was originally hoping to have it in paint in early spring of this year. Currently it may see paint by spring summer of 2015. (crosses fingers)

Goals:
For now I want a nice cruiser that's got some decent hp/tq. I'd like to drive it around town and take it to a few cruises/car shows. During winter I always like to tinker and do upgrades.

My unrealistic dream goal would be to turn it into a pro-touring car. Sitting low on 18x10 or larger wheels. I would also drop in a LS series engine maybe a LQ4 on a tight budget or go wild with a LS3/6 variation. The car will stay an auto, I know some people won't understand that but I love a good auto as much as banging gears in a stick car.

Short term goals that are more realistic is to just restore the vehicle to good quality, I will keep the drivetrain as it is for now as it's in good shape and if anything blows up take it to the next level at that time (budget pending of course). The body will be fully repaired and painted by myself. It will be painted a blue (unsure of which specific color code at this time) but it will be a medium to dark hue.

Bottom line is all work will be done by me, in my garage with whatever tools I currently have or acquire. Hence the whole reason for purchasing this car.

Now to what's happened since I started work along with pics.

As I purchased it, as you can see the body doesn't look bad at all. Looking at it very throughly I could tell there was bondo/mud applied and I did notice some rust in the rear quarters and in the trunk area (which is common for these cars) I also noticed the body bushings were bad again another common problem with age.



IMG_1489 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1490 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


Engine Bay, looks can be decieving, the whole front accessory system is a redneck engineer mess along with the fan and rad shroud.
IMG_1487 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

IMG_1503 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr


IMG_1504 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr

Pics of the interior, the seats are trashed and the carpet doesn't fit right as it's either a universal or not the correct for this make/model/year.
IMG_1499 by Chris Watkins, on Flickr





I'll break this up into a few posts.
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cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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I just used the set of holes that made everything fit the best, normally the farthest set of holes are stock then the others move it rear more and more.



This is where the mounts are now. Looks like I could go left a hole (or 2) and push the motor back a bit. I am more concerned with the trans mount and length of the driveshaft being as close to stock as possible.

IMG_1877.jpg
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Think I will push the motor back one more bolt hole on the dirty dingo mounts. Still need to get a trans mount, so I can bolt in the cross member for final fitment. Right now the jack is supporting the trans.

Today I bolted up the fenders and the hood, and wouldn’t you know I had to do a bit of modification to the beauty cover boss hole. I also had to remove the Pcv tube on the intake side. Some research to do there. I know the boss hole is common on the stock hoods. Haven’t seen anything about the pcv yet.

I also need to do some serious metal work to the fenders as they don’t line up for shit. Most of it is due to metal shrinkage from welding. I’ll get to that later.


How the hood fit with out modifications
IMG_1962.jpg

IMG_1963.jpg

Where it was hittting

IMG_1965.jpg

Removed the pcv and cut the boss down.

IMG_1967.jpg


Moar better!

IMG_1968.jpg

Some panel gap pictures, this is the first time this hood has been on this car.

IMG_1969.jpg

IMG_1970.jpg


For my own documentation on panel placement

Driver fender - 1 shim @ upper cowl 2 shims at lower rear bolt. 1 shim lower front mount.

Passenger fender - 1 shim @ upper cowl
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Was supposed to have all weekend in the garage but that got shot strait to shit. Aside from cleaning up the garage a little bit I was able to get the hood off and check the trans mount that’s about all the time I had this weekend on the Nova.

First a pic with the hood on from the front angle, looking at this gets me excited to get to metalwork and bodywork.

IMG_1972.jpg

As for the trans mount the 4l80 is much longer than the 700r4 so I will either have to fab up my own mount or buy something like the Holley system.

Shitty pic

IMG_1973.jpg
 

Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
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Feb 4, 2012
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What's killing me is I used to have a picture of my Astro's 4L80E home made trans mount. I'll have to go find it and take a pic. Basically what I wound up doing was cutting a chunk of the middle out, welding in a section of pipe on the bottom of the existing crossmember so the 4L80E would sit at the right height then added a stub probably 4-6" for the mount to bolt to. It was probably heavier than it needed to be, and if I was in that situation again I'd be some what inclined to have someone actually take a tubing bender and make me a nice one out of some DOM Chrome Molly tubing which would likely be lighter and more rigid.

That said they seem to be in the low $300 range. May not be worth it. Not like I have a ton of choice however.
 

HILROD

TCG Elite Member
Oct 22, 2007
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On some cars a plate bolted to the stock holes, going back under the new mount
works. I'm not sure if I have a pic from my Monte.
Also you should be able to slide the whole crossmember back. The last one I did I hade to drill one new hole on each side, the existing ones fit in the other holes.
 

Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
TCG Premium
Feb 4, 2012
25,869
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Nashotah, Wisconsin (AKA not Illinois)
On some cars a plate bolted to the stock holes, going back under the new mount
works. I'm not sure if I have a pic from my Monte.
Also you should be able to slide the whole crossmember back. The last one I did I hade to drill one new hole on each side, the existing ones fit in the other holes.

That may or may not work in his case. Don't forget he has a stub up front not a full frame. Worth checking out though.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Been a bit since I was able to get some time on this turd. Life, death and whatever else you can think put this on the back burner.

Had some time today so figured why not burn in some metal.


Had to sand everything down to get it clean and rust free. Some weld through primer sprayed on.
IMG_2043.jpg


Spot welded in
IMG_2045.jpg

Welds all dressed

IMG_2046.jpg
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Doesn’t look like much of an update but I actually got a full day in the garage yesterday. Hopefully life stops getting in the way and I can get some progress going.

Needed to get the trans tunnel connected to the firewall before I finish the driver side. Used almost my whole tool arsenal and while this looks like a simple thing it really wasn’t.

IMG_2109.jpg

IMG_2110.jpg

IMG_2111.jpg

IMG_2112.jpg

And what it should look like when the driver side patch is welded in. I will have to clean it up some especially the underside so it doesn’t look halfassed.

IMG_2107.jpg
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Couple updates, this is actually in reverse order. The second part of the post is from a few weeks ago.

Driver side firewall update. Chevy did a real horseshit job of putting these cars together. The driver side sticks out at the bottom by 3/8’s of an inch. This has been a problem I have been pondering for months.

Won’t bore you with all the options I went through before deciding on this course. I bead rolled the lower half of the panel to put a flange in place so the bottom of the panel fits flush with the original firewall and the mounting boss assembly for the subframe. This keeps the driver patch from being clearly visible that it wasn’t strait from top to bottom or having the original metal overlap the patch I made.

Setting up the offset die’s on the bead roller. Lots of trial and error and testing a few scrap pieces of metal. First pics was the test piece I felt would be the best.

IMG_2184.jpg

IMG_2183.jpg

Bead roller die’s

IMG_2187.jpg

Marked the panel on where the flange should be.

IMG_2185.jpg

IMG_2186.jpg

After a dozen or so passes through the roller. This is 16 gauge steel and my roller really isn’t rated for that so it’s lots of small incremental passes. Not easy to keep the panel strait and wind the crank on the roller.

IMG_2190.jpg

IMG_2191.jpg

Breaking this up into 2 posts
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Tapa being a pain with uploading too many pics at once.

Full shot of the panel

IMG_2192.jpg

Back on the firewall

IMG_2188.jpg

IMG_2189.jpg

Now when I weld it in I can bodywork the rest so it doesn’t look terrible.

I can’t weld it in just yet as I need a metal hole saw to cut out the steering column area. Once it’s welded in I will need a helper to hammer/dolly some areas.

This was actually from a few weeks back. I didn’t feel like working on the firewall because I hadn’t come to a decision on what route I wanted to go. So I was going to grind out some areas and clean up some previous welds. I was working on the driver floor pan and the trans tunnel extension when I looked at the rear pans again. I noticed the tell tale sign of JB weld and bondo and decided to hit it with the grinder.


What I found

IMG_2160.jpg

Hard to tell in the pics but that’s over 1/2 inch thick of bondo and JB weld. Plus the rust holes.

IMG_2161.jpg

IMG_2162.jpg

Plus the trans tunnel between the front seats has a nice crack running down it. This was also under bondo.

IMG_2158.jpg


Now I am just thinking of cutting out the whole floor and putting in a complete factory floor. If I had known both rear pans were this bad and the trans tunnel I would have done this vs just buying the driver pan. So much for doing something once...

Definitely learned my lesson... get the car media blasted so you know the full extent of metal underneath.
 

HILROD

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Oct 22, 2007
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A bunch of places sell the floor in two halfs. Unless you need all the bracing, I wouldn't do the complete floor. They can be a huge pain in a unibody car. You would have to put the car completely back together mocked up before it gets welded in. Everything else looks good!
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
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Bolingbrook IL
Wow that sucks

Firewall turning out badass tho. Are the spot welds going where the sheet metal screws are? Do those work better than clecos?

Yes, plus a few more spot welds will be added. The screws are self tapping and work better when there is a gap between the 2 panels. The screws will draw the panels together, where the Cleco's work better when the panels are flat against each other. When I am ready to burn it all in there will be a mixture of both being used while welding.
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,783
2,491
Bolingbrook IL
A bunch of places sell the floor in two halfs. Unless you need all the bracing, I wouldn't do the complete floor. They can be a huge pain in a unibody car. You would have to put the car completely back together mocked up before it gets welded in. Everything else looks good!

I actually had the full driver side floor pan, I cut up the front section before the brace and used that to replace that section. I still have the rear driver plan to use. I was thinking of the full pan to fix several issues.

Almost the whole floor minus the braces needs to be replaced. The full floor pan includes the rear seat pans which were butchered to get to the rear subframe bolts. Since the trans tunnel has a crack in it it would also replace that. It also saves me having to grind off the layers of shit on the underside of the car.

But yes the car would need to be braced and then resting on all 4 wheels at ride height when welding in the floor. I just need to figure out which is quicker and the better solution. Each way has it's own advantages and con's. I'm not even considering cost at this point anymore.

I've got to kick this project into a high gear. The wife and I are thinking of moving again in spring which means the car needs to be in a roller form. Another item is my brother finally brought his 65 ranchero back from storage. That project was put on hold over 9 years ago, both my brother and I want to get it finished and give it back to our dad before he's no longer able to drive, which does not give us a whole lot of time.
 

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