06' Cadillac/used cars that have been sitting

bikrboy128

Some say.....
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I don't because having worked on them in a GM stealership and now that I've now owned three vehicles with N* designed engines and they've been stone cold reliable and overall, putting aside the size 10 engine in a size 5 dress issue, pretty easy to work on as they're all modular in design.

Just like any car though, they have their nuances.

The car that the op is looking at isn't a Northstar, its a 3.6. Its hard to imagine GM could come up with a bigger pile of shit after the Northstar but they managed it with the 3.6.

Timing Chains and crank reluctor wheel are the big ones on the early 3.6. I'd avoid that like the plague
 

Kaeghl

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The Ly7 is that bad? (generic model is the high feature v6) I had one in my 04 cadi cts, went over 150k, and I thought they were still using them in the camaros?
I have heard of the timing issue on the early ones, it was a crap shoot if you got the good chains and tensioners or the bad ones. there was a revision to quiet noise that ended up making the timing chains kind of an issue.
My biggest issue was the weird egr replacement system, there is a trick to drill out the return so that the line doesnt get clogged, that or add a catch can.
 

CMNTMXR57

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GM uses this "High Feature V6" as an engine in virtually every vehicle/platform they make in one iteration or another now. There are some 18 versions (RPO's) of the engine in 4 or 5 varying displacements! If they were such a pile, GM would be out of business from all the pissed off customers and warranty claims.

I'm not an overt fan of them personally, nor am I advocating that they're the greatest thing since sliced bread, but when you have as many of them out there as they do, something statistically is bound to show up as an issue in the service lanes. Throw enough shit at a wall and eventually something sticks! I mean, even the vaunted 3800 had a few maladies too. As did the Vortec engines (Gen2 and then GenIII+). They provided job security at the time.
 

99PONTIACGP

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Purchased.

Bought the 20" Vogue's, replaced a the rear brakes along with an oil change aaaaaaand now have an intermintent start issue. I watched this video :



And thought it would be a relay issue. Replaced the relay and still having a no start issue. Just a click. Would this be the start ler then?

20191125_092115.jpg
 

Flyn

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Borrow a code reader. No. Buy a code reader. You'll need it.

I use the Blue Driver which is pretty good for a cheap, consumer product.

Congrats on your purchase. Car looks nice. Once you straighten it out it will be fun. Hopefully, the 3.6 keeps running.

 

Flyn

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Also, when you need front brakes, the Caddy is a relatively heavy car that's hard on brakes. I found the cheap rotors warp within a year or so. Purchased a performance set that I installed today that has beefier rotors that will, hopefully, last longer. 3 year warranty. Got them at Rock Auto for $185 for the 2 rotor and brake pad kit with their 5% discount.
 

99PONTIACGP

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Battery.

I can't view the video above, but am I correct in presuming that you are jumping the relay? If so, and it starts, it rules out the starter and could be a bad relay.

Battery was replaced with a brand new one the day I bought the car. Yes. Jumped the relay. It didn't hold it long enough to start the car, but the motor turned.
 

Flyn

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It always comes down to gas/air/spark (or electronics). It's sounding like electronics to me although it could be a multiple problem issue including the fuel pump or some part in the fuel delivery system. That's why I suggest a decent code reader. The Blue Driver picks up some codes that cheap readers don't. It's one of my most used tools. If I'm not using it, someone else is borrowing it.
 
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CMNTMXR57

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So, it turns over but does not start?

Fuel pump?

This was going to be my next question.

Otherwise, there are three parts to any electrical circuit. 1) the power source. 2) the path. 3) the end user. You've effectively replaced the power source (the battery), and you've confirmed that it turns over when jumping, so that rules out the end user (the starter), so if it lies in the cranking system, it's somewhere in the path, I.E., the wiring and connections.

If it's cranking but not firing, then is the fuel pump not pumping? Is the ignition feed getting it's signal through the BCM? There was a fuel pump relay recall, but I don't think it covered 3.6's.

Also, removing the battery shouldn't reset anything. I've had mine out many times without issue (other than the clock issue).

One off the wall question, obviously you've driven it, which means it's started and run at some point, but have you put the key fob into the center console nook and let it resynch (best term I can use here) to the car? These push button start cars rely on a security rolling code to be run using the key fob as the pass through for authentication. If it's not synched properly... I know over winter, I have to go over to where I have it stored every month/month and a half and just cycle the locks to re-communicate the fob to the car as it goes in to to a sleep/dormant mode. I did this last week as a matter of fact. And this car having sat...
 
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