My Turbo LS1 Trans-Am build

willizm

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May 13, 2009
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The Woodlands, TX
My trans is an FLT level 6 4l60e, but even then it's still pushing the limit of what my car is going to put out. I will probably end up switching it out over next winter for a stronger 4l80e or go with a powerglide. I really want to keep a stockish trans in it such as the 4l80e, but don't want to be going through transmissions left and right either. We will see how it goes.
 

willizm

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May 13, 2009
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around 700-800whp depending on how you drive it of course. i'll be right there in that range hopefully. We will see how she holds up, but I don't have expectations of this thing being bullet proof. This car is 99% street and I'll take it to the strip a couple times a year. Hopefully I get some use out of it before I upgrade to something stronger.
 

Pressure Ratio

....
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Nov 11, 2005
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Glen Ellyn
I am in the same position you are. I should put a th400 in the car. But the AOD has held up well and the OD does help. I wish I had a lock up converter because that really helps on the highway. But the AOD can't be built strong with a lock up. Even the newer 4R70W I question how long it would last with the lock up input shaft.

Besides the spine in the drum twisting I have not had any problems with the trans. My biggest concern is the size of the clutch discs in the AOD versus the TH400. The TH400 has a larger diameter clutch pack. So that means less holding power and longevity for the AOD. That means frequent rebuilds. I am 50/50 on a trans conversion. I hate that I can't figure out what to do. I think if I end up switching to a 3.00 or 2.70 gear in spring it will make the TH400 conversion easier to justify.

Talk to Chuck @ FLT once you get the car sorted out. Then you can see the kind of power you are making and how the trans works at the track. He know what both transmissions can and can't do. He knows his stuff and will get you on the right track.
 

willizm

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willzm whats your car gonna weigh.

curb weight is about 3400lbs and with the mods I got I'd imagine it to be a couple hundred more than that. especially with that rear end and I'm doing no weight reduction other than mod swapping(exhaust, shocks, wheels). Maybe around 3700-3800lbs. Hard to say without getting it weighed.

Pressure, I do like Chuck, he's been really easy to bs with so i'll always be coming to him for advice.
 

willizm

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Oh a little update. Sold LTH's and Y-Pipe and bought a circle-d multidisk 258mm Pro III converter stalled at 3400rpm and sfi flexplate. Turbo kit should have been delivered by UPS today, but they suck and it won't be here until tomorrow. Pulling engine tomorrow night and heading to speed inc on saturday to drop it off. Called swaintech about their coatings, turnaround, and pricing. Sounds about 2-3 weeks out which is about the time it's going to take for the shortblock so that should work out.
 

Pressure Ratio

....
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Nov 11, 2005
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Glen Ellyn
Depends on what features you want and price range your looking at. Manual controllers can work quite well. But are limiting when you need a ramp rate to get the car to leave with less boost and build as the pass goes. Then you have other options like using CO2 to control your waste gate. This can be helpful when your back pressure climbs with bigger boost.

Honestly I have seen a few friends use the Eboost2 and have them freeze up. Work fine all week on the street. Get to the track and it holds 10# of boost when programmed for much higher boost.

If your looking at that kind of money check out the AMS 500. Great unit that is stone reliable. Has a dual stage boost setting and can be used with CO2 if you wish. The AMS 1000 is it's big brother that most of the big racers use. But your looking at $1000 for some thing like that. Click here for the AMS products.

The MSD unit is another popular unit that is slightly cheaper. But you need a lap top to program it I believe.

Don't over look boost control. Because when you start to make big power you will find out you can't leave under 12#+ of boost. So a manual controller will not be useful as you get one boost setting and that is it. So "power management" will become a tuning tool for getting the car to leave at the track. I would say if you are on a tight budget right now use a simple manual controller. You are going to start out with smaller boost when the car comes out. Getting things dialed in and such. Then when you need a ramp rate of dual stages you can already have saved up some money. Then buy the best you can afford.
 

Hubbard 0

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2009
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Chicago, IL
I used the AEM Tru-Boost on my Talon.

It's a bit of a pain to setup because there are only 2 buttons, but it has 3 boost settings, an alarm feature that cuts boost, an output wire for the alarm that can flash a light or cut timing, etc. Uses an AEM solenoid, so it's reliable.

It's like the eboost, circle gauge shaped.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-boost-boost-controller-gauge-757
 

Intel

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Oct 28, 2009
5,889
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Palatine
Not sure how these will work on the bigger turbos you are using but I love my Blitz I-color, had the simpler Blitz SBC-ID before which worked alright. I just wanted boost based on speed for the launching issues.

Now if I could get an aftermarket standalone ecu I could do boost by gear which would be a bit nicer. But I will only playing around with 400hp on pump gas and street tires.

I have heard better things about the AEM. And some other cheaper options are the Greddy ones but I find them finicky to work on sometimes.

That AMS-500 looks cool, It just seems to do things in a very different way than what I am used to programming/installing with the dual solenoids to increase or decrease. I am sure once it is setup though it looks like it should be pretty simple.
 

Junk86

I'm here now.
Apr 8, 2009
1,823
0
Depends on what features you want and price range your looking at. Manual controllers can work quite well. But are limiting when you need a ramp rate to get the car to leave with less boost and build as the pass goes. Then you have other options like using CO2 to control your waste gate. This can be helpful when your back pressure climbs with bigger boost.

Honestly I have seen a few friends use the Eboost2 and have them freeze up. Work fine all week on the street. Get to the track and it holds 10# of boost when programmed for much higher boost.

If your looking at that kind of money check out the AMS 500. Great unit that is stone reliable. Has a dual stage boost setting and can be used with CO2 if you wish. The AMS 1000 is it's big brother that most of the big racers use. But your looking at $1000 for some thing like that. Click here for the AMS products.

The MSD unit is another popular unit that is slightly cheaper. But you need a lap top to program it I believe.

Don't over look boost control. Because when you start to make big power you will find out you can't leave under 12#+ of boost. So a manual controller will not be useful as you get one boost setting and that is it. So "power management" will become a tuning tool for getting the car to leave at the track. I would say if you are on a tight budget right now use a simple manual controller. You are going to start out with smaller boost when the car comes out. Getting things dialed in and such. Then when you need a ramp rate of dual stages you can already have saved up some money. Then buy the best you can afford.

This.
 

Eagle

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Mar 1, 2008
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Woodsticks, IL
I used the AEM Tru-Boost on my Talon.

It's a bit of a pain to setup because there are only 2 buttons, but it has 3 boost settings, an alarm feature that cuts boost, an output wire for the alarm that can flash a light or cut timing, etc. Uses an AEM solenoid, so it's reliable.

It's like the eboost, circle gauge shaped.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/tru-boost-boost-controller-gauge-757

THIS :D

Ramping is cool and will help if you're going to attempt to leave on big boost out of the hole. For me the tru-boost was perfect and gets the job done, but doesn't have the ability to ramp.
 

Pressure Ratio

....
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Nov 11, 2005
20,510
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Glen Ellyn
Dual stages and ramp rates don't let you leave on big boost. They let a quick spooling turbo leave on small or moderate boost and then ramp up to big boost down track a little.

Some of the better units can set up different stages or boost setting based off of time, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), drive shaft speed, gear triggers, etc. The more expensive the unit the more options it has. The more options you have does make it easier to set up for different applications. I run mine off the VSS and engine rpm right now. I also have used VSS versus time. This season I will base it off the VSS, engine RPM and the trans gear. My unit also has a "slew rate" that I can use as kind of a traction control. Different ways to do different things. Some tuners love the different options. Some stand by the K.I.S.S. theory. Keep It Simple Stupid for those who may have never heard of that. lol
 

Eagle

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Mar 1, 2008
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Woodsticks, IL
Dual stages and ramp rates don't let you leave on big boost. They let a quick spooling turbo leave on small or moderate boost and then ramp up to big boost down track a little.

Some of the better units can set up different stages or boost setting based off of time, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), drive shaft speed, gear triggers, etc. The more expensive the unit the more options it has. The more options you have does make it easier to set up for different applications. I run mine off the VSS and engine rpm right now. I also have used VSS versus time. This season I will base it off the VSS, engine RPM and the trans gear. My unit also has a "slew rate" that I can use as kind of a traction control. Different ways to do different things. Some tuners love the different options. Some stand by the K.I.S.S. theory. Keep It Simple Stupid for those who may have never heard of that. lol

I think that's what I meant... but you say it so much more eloquently, kind sir. :D
 

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