🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

[v6buicks]

So I'm aware of the TR6 because of GN stuff, but always forget that they can be made to work on 3800s too. I have stock Magnavox shit on my GN though. Is the ICM connector the same for 3800s as the LC2?

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

The connectors the same the pinout is slightly different

 

[v6buicks]

The connectors the same the pinout is slightly different

Hmmmm so if I swap a couple wires around I'll be set. This is intriguing. Best part is that I'll once again have parts that work for both cars. Now I just need to finish printing that '86 Regal FSM.

Edit: Nevermind. It's actually pretty nicely organized in my flash drive. If any Buick people need it, hit me up.

 

[sktchy]

That's very interesting! I never would have guessed that. This car is a beater and always will be, so I don't care enough to fix it anyway.

Triggered rambling incoming....

I honestly still wonder if I'll even keep this car let alone waste money on painting it. Yeah, there's some sentimental value here, but there are still issues I have with it that I'll never be able to do anything about. 1) It's an F-body. I don't even like F-bodies enough to be wasting a very valuable 1 of 2 garage spaces with one. Every modification I do to the car makes me think I'm going to hate F-bodies less, but it'll still always be a shitty Chevy. 2) It's played its role, and the show is long over. I bought an F-body because I wanted a RWD manual 3800 (not a Fiero) and I had never built anything before. If I failed I wouldn't care about scrapping an F-body. Well, I obviously succeeded in the initial goal. It's turbo, reliable(ish), and fun to beat on. Yeah, it still works as the fun beater I guess, but I don't use it like that... It's still put away for the winter, the seats suck, it doesn't have AC, it's loud, and driving stick in my commute isn't all the fun I thought it would be. Most of the time I still prefer to drive my C30. Wild. I never thought that would be the case. 3) Now that the car is getting pretty good I suddenly have an itch to start racing, and this is not a very safe shell to do so in. The class I would want to run requires a G-body Regal and an GM automatic anyway.

Part of me says to keep this car as the racecar, go balls to fucking wall, forget the race class that I would never be competitive in anyway, and forget the streetability aspect. A well done cage would keep me safe, a th400 would make it actually fast.... then swapping the TKX/3800 into a GN with AC and cruise control would be a badass and much more cozy cruiser. Then again, I really REALLY want a big block GS too. That equates to four toys because I still have the stockish Grand National that I'm not selling either. I know I can't have it all, but there's so many flavors to choose from!

Just enjoy the thing. You know what it's like to have it sittin in the garage.

 

[GTPpower]

I would wire in a resistor and switch in the iat circuit and create an antilag. Pressing the switch will allow you to pull a bunch of timing and helps the turbo spool quicker.

They also make a spool valve that blocks half the turbine inlet and helps the turbo spool faster, then it opens once the turbo lights.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

MattM just sprayed a 150shot at the line to light it off.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

MattM just sprayed a 150shot at the line to light it off.

From what I have understood you don't even need that much, supposedly even a bit of the jug goes a long way for spooling.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

BFTGT needed eet fer sure

 

[v6buicks]

I'm going to avoid nitrous too. I'm getting some conflicting answers on the IAT deal. Some people are saying just open the circuit on a momentary switch, but I don't want to set a CEL. Wouldn't it go into a limp? Can find the resistance of -40 for the IAT and put that in there instead of open?

I like the idea of the TR6 too, but getting information on the GN ICM wiring is surprisingly tough. The FSM doesn't have nice diagrams.

 

[v6buicks]

All the articles I see regarding Type 2 ignition for GNs are suggesting that you only need an adapter plate and that the ICM just plugs in. ? I don't mind moving the coil somewhere else anyway if it's really backwards compatible. I suppose I could be a real dumbass and try plugging a Magnavox into the Camaro for proof of concept. ? I just don't want to burn something up.

 

[sktchy]

Idk. Coil on plug seems to be the move here lately doesn't look terribly complicated.

Also you dig pretty deep into the electrical side of things for not bein one to dig into the laptop side of it lol

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

the lsx style CPP unit we found and are using would be awesome if configured for a lingfelter limiter setup. something an arduino with 6 pwm channels could easily manage with some healty coding

the lingenfelter unit for the coilpack harness junction connector is setup for v8 frequencies for a somewhat random "soft" kill design

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

New item by jim williamse

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[v6buicks]

This is all sending me into the spin cycle.

TR6 kinda sucks because it would not be plug and play. I confirmed that it's only going to be plug in to a Series 1 Type 2. Making this work for a Series 2 would probably turn into a relatively expensive cob job all while still not being an end-all coil.

COPs look like a ton of work to get right. I don't have fancy 3d printers, and we still don't have a two step controller that works with it. I'm better off with N2MB or resistor mod.

Quick spool would be awesome if I had a divided housing, but it seems like it won't do anything for me with my undivided housing.

My MSD idea would be alright if it wasn't so flippin expensive while still utilizing the same stock coils and ICM.

I have to look into what the N2MB actually does vs the IAT mod. As far as I can tell, N2MB only cuts ignition where the IAT mod is going to dump extra fuel and retard ignition. I'm not sure which is better. These seem like my best two options for now though.

 

[sktchy]

I'm thinkin go with the iat thing. I haven't been in a dbw 3800 file for a while but I would guess there's a workaround for the reduced power mode. I.e. the ls stuff does it by limiting pedal and you can just put a normal map in there and keep on trucking if you want. Or maybe it's possible to disable the function altogether? At any rate that seems a real easy way to get it to pull as much timing as you wanna slap in that table and should give you the results your looking for.

 

[bs009]

I was seeing around 3psi built up with the n2mb box. I'm running a twin scroll turbo with a billet wheel and I feel like that played a factor too.

A thought I had but never tried was to run the n2mb and the IAT mod to pull timing at the same time, probably run both off switches so you can try out both or something or stage them manually. I didn't have great results with the IAT mod.
IAT never set a code for me but I shorted my circuit so it thought the temps were maxed out. I had a relay that would bypass the sensor/short the wires when I had a switch in the car flipped on and the clutch was down. Then just adjusted the tune accordingly to pull all of the timing out.

 

[GTPpower]

I'm not sure if the fbodies are different, but in the fwd world, the iat only affects timing.

I have a chart that shows the resistance needed for each degree range. I'll see if I can find it. I think we tried to just open the circuit, and it ended up not reacting very fast.

 

[sktchy]

I'm not sure if the fbodies are different, but in the fwd world, the iat only affects timing.

I have a chart that shows the resistance needed for each degree range. I'll see if I can find it. I think we tried to just open the circuit, and it ended up not reacting very fast.

I'm fairly sure the only iat table is timing based. If you wanted to play with the ect circuit you could do both timing and fuel but there wouldn't be alot of resolution and I'm not sure how fast it would react along with needing to run a manual gauge to monitor coolant temp outside of it. Maybe something in cutting the abs/ tcs circuit such as the way my car is playing games at the moment? Does seem to react fairly quickly and would give the ability to pin timing and fuel to where you want it, but there may be a sacrifice when it comes to power enrichment and you might have to work your fuel out in other ways but I think it could be done.

 

[sktchy]

Actually that may be the ticket. Cut the signal on one of the wheel bearings so it triggers abs and it defaults to say 11.0 fuel and 5 degrees or wherever you set it. Kick it back on and all is back to normal...

 

[sktchy]

I wonder if you could even wire it into like the clutch safety switch so it would work whenever you held the clutch in and then go back to normal when the clutch is out? Maybe gain a no lift shift effect while your at it?

 

[sktchy]

The more I think about this the more I think there's possibilities. I may have to do some poking and prodding around while I'm actually fixing it right.

 

[v6buicks]

I was considering the clutch switch idea too. I like the idea of using ABS because mine is deleted and I'd be utilizing parts that I'm not using for anything else. I just don't really understand how I would set that up.

 

[sktchy]

That's where I'm running into a wall. It may not even work the way it does with yours with the dbw setup or without them hooked up I would think it would be sticking to the TCS afr at idle like mine does. What I want to do is try tying the wires together and see if that kicks it out of doing it or if it actually needs the pulsed signal from the bearings to turn it back off. Keep in mind at this point I'm in perma open loop which may have something to do with it all but iirc your car is as well?

bs009 how did you get around abs on your swap? Your afr and pe work correctly and go back to stoich at idle? Or is mine maybe just a freak or I have somethin twisted in the toon to make it do the things it does?

 

[v6buicks]

Mine is a factory no traction control car, so my ABS was totally different anyway. I'm not scared to try the IAT trick and activate it with my clutch switch.

 

[sktchy]

Mine doesn't have TCS either but still uses the fueling table for whatever reason but not always. That's what makes me think I can trick it into using it as a wannabe two step. The iat table would be fine and I'm sure you could set pe by map rich enough to get the fuel where you wanted. I'm also starting to think maybe it's a bug in my pcm and I should try putting another in and see what it does