🔧 BUILD Taws697's 1963 Biscayne Build! the anti-swap. Engine updates on page 5

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After reading the thread on user participation, I decided to start a build thread. I got the car back in 2018 but never made a thread because 1, it’s not a turbo LS or blown coyote and 2, because I move so slowly on it. I may fail miserably, but here we go.......

1963 Chevy Biscayne 2dr post. Laurel green with a fawn interior. Straight 6 with a 3 on the tree. 40,000 mile car completely untouched with plastic covers on the seats. This thing is bare bones. It has 1 option which is a push button radio, nothing else. No side mirrors, single speed wipers, no reverse lights, manual steering and brakes. The original owner down in Kentucky passed and his buddy sold it to me out of the estate. I got the original owners manual, accessory book, dealer ice scraper and even the statement of origin. These are pictures of when I picked it up.

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taws697

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How did I miss this? Freaking bad ass man! that little patch looked great! Link on those magnets?

I got them from Eastwood. I pinched my fingers a couple times because they are so strong.


I also picked up this vise sheetmetal brake. I used it to make the patch pieces for the inner rockers. It worked real well.

 
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taws697

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I also decided to gather some items that I wanted powder coated. So, I removed the inner fenders and stripped down to sets of lower control arms. Believe it or not, 6 cylinder cars did not have front sway bars. So I got 2 sets of v8 lower control arms and sway bars. 1 set for the Biscayne and 1 set for the Belair. I also gathered some pulleys, v8 fan shroud, v8 motor mounts, 5 blade fan, and then dropped it off at my powder coated to be done in chassis black.
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taws697

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I’ve had millions of powertrain ideas, but my budget won’t let me get real fancy. I decided on a small block, 4 speed, and 9 inch. I came across a 327 out of a 65 Vette. It’s has the factory small journal forged crank, “Pink” LT-1 rods, and .030 over forged flat top pistons with reliefs. Best part is that it was super cheap. I plan to dress it up like a factory 300hp 327, but hope that it makes around 400hp.
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These are the heads that I picked up for it. They are trick flow aluminum “Double Hump” castings. Once painted, I don’t think anyone will know the difference but they should flow pretty well.
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I’m going to run an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold. I plan to grind off the edelbrock lettering and have a hole milled in the front for the oil fill tube.
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taws697

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Not sure how I missed this thread... as others have said, this car is awesome.

What have you done to "brighten" the paint work ?
I can offer a thread or two that may help.

Any input would be appreciated! I’ve buffed every panel with the heavy rubbing compound from Turtlewax. It’s like a red gritty paste. That cleaned up most of the orange stain around all of the specs of surface rust. Then I went to a light polishing compound to bring out some shine in the lacquer. After that I did a coat of wax. Meguiars ultimate paste wax I think? Definitely not top notch products, but they seem to be helping some. I’ve been doing this all by hand because it doesn’t take much to rub through the lacquer and reveal the red oxide primer.
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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There is a lot reading here but it breaks down like this. It is hand applications which is safe
Meguiars has a show car glaze, #7. it actually moisturizes or conditions the single stage paint. 2-3 applications allows the paint to be ready for a very light finishing polish or straight to a pure carnauba wax.

I may highlight and post sections in the detailing section, I do not want to clutter your build thread.
My suggestion for the carnauba wax is Collinite 915.

I would not "attack" the original paint with a rubbing compound. Single stage paint is typically THIN and the last thing you want to do is use an abrasive product.
The show car glaze has a ZERO cut level.
 

taws697

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There is a lot reading here but it breaks down like this. It is hand applications which is safe
Meguiars has a show car glaze, #7. it actually moisturizes or conditions the single stage paint. 2-3 applications allows the paint to be ready for a very light finishing polish or straight to a pure carnauba wax.

I may highlight and post sections in the detailing section, I do not want to clutter your build thread.
My suggestion for the carnauba wax is Collinite 915.

I would not "attack" the original paint with a rubbing compound. Single stage paint is typically THIN and the last thing you want to do is use an abrasive product.
The show car glaze has a ZERO cut level.

Awesome! I’m going to sit down and read this more in depth later. After briefly scanning the article, it looks like I’m doing exactly what it says not to do! Lol Thanks again!
 

taws697

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What a great find, that car is awesome!
You're doing a nice job keeping the OG feel to it while preserving it from deterioration. Keep it up!
Also love the not LS drivetrain.
Here's a pic of my old 64, little different approach but it too had a 6/glide. 22mpg was nicebut man was it a pooch.

View attachment 51266
That looks killer!
 
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taws697

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I’ve been moving along slowly with the car. I installed new rubber flaps on the inner fenders and them mounted the inner fenders and battery tray. The fresh powder coat looks kind of goofy next to all of the other stuff. Oh well. I did cruise the car around a little and get some photos of it.

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