3800 Ses codes...why the car is running bad...

[Royalgtp]

So far I have the codes P0102(MAF sensor low frequency) and P0300(Misfire in cylinder 3)


I tried to drive the car today and it was all over the place...I turned around on the highway and came home. It was driving fine and all of a sudden started to lose rpms and jump all over the place. I had to keep the gas on it ot keep oit going.


I pulled over and it was still all over the place. It then died out on me. Luckily I started it up again with the car surging and losing rpms, made it back to my house.


The funny thing was that it was all crazy for 20 minutes and when I was finally getting home it was all good for 5 minutes. It idled at the light fine, ran smooth and I even gave it a quick burst up to around 4k RPMs and was all good.

Then when I was a block away it got all messed up again.


anyway, my ATAP says the MAF sensor is stuck at .212lb.........Even when I floor it and all that in Park.???

Do I need a new MAF? IM hoping this is simple.


HELP!!!!!!!! h34r:

Click to read more...

 

[superchargedgp]

replace your maf and check for any broken melted wires going to thew maf

 

[Royalgtp]

took the ICCU off and put it back to stock.....

worked great driving to work...........will give it a little more time though.


How much for a new MAF sensor? That is the one directly on top of the TB correct?

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

They're expensive; like $200-250 new IIRC. Sometimes ZZP has them for sale used. I have a 99+ with unknown miles on it. If Fredo chimes in he could point out the milage because it came out of his car. I'd sell it for cheap if you want it. GTP's and GT's share the same exact PN from 99+. This might be a good opportunity to get a LS6 or LS1 MAF with a nstar TB, or LS1. You may need it with those mods anyway.

 

[Royalgtp]

that is crazy!!!!.


200 damm bucks..........


well, how muc his it for a LS1 TB and a 85mm MAF? im to lazy to look it up?

How much more tunning is required for this?

 

[Royalgtp]

ron if it is a good maf, what are you willing to let it go for?

 

[mybluegtp]

Well i'm sure it has been on the car since it got built and then I got it at 16k miles and then add an additional 2-5k miles on it. But it still looked good to me.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

$40 I guess?
I don't know how long you can keep your car down, but I have a complete TB (ported) that I was going to upgrade. When Fredo sold his TB that I ported to Syp, I swapped Syp one I upgraded with Fredo's (which is like yours) If you had a week to keep the car down, I'd just swap a complete TB for you that's upgraded. I just have to do the mods to the one Fredo had, and the Epoxy I use is slow-curing (like 3 days), and is really tough to sand. I don't want any money for the upgrades, just for the MAF. Should get your LT's a little more in line.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Hey, John, wanted to mention that Jet had some problems with his ICCU, but I can't remember exactly what they were. I know he was having the LT's read FAT, and it was intermittent. You may want to PM him, and give him a link to this thread. He may be able to shed some light on it, or how he fixed it, but I do remember he fixed it somehow.

 

[Royalgtp]

it reads FAT cause no 02 pig tail is hooked up yet?

Im confused? Why cant I just by the MAF?


I already have your TB on there..........

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Originally posted by RoyalGTP@Mar 2 2005, 05:37 PM
it reads FAT cause no 02 pig tail is hooked up yet?

Im confused?  Why cant I just by the MAF? 


I already have your TB on there..........

[snapback]73599[/snapback]​

You can just buy the MAF. I made updates (improvements) to how I've done TB's over the past few years. I'd rather have you riding around with a revised TB than the $75 thing I first offered. I do some stuff to the shaft, and re-epoxy the MAF area which helps MAF readings, and transitions flow better into the SC. I've just about revised all the TB's I originally did, yours is one of the only one's w/o the changes. You'll pick up a big improvement in flow for no $$$. I'm not boring it out, that will cost $$$, but I can signifigantly improve the way it works with a few minor changes.

 

[Royalgtp]

im going to call you.......

I need a new maf




What does it cost for you new stuff?

I have a stock TB and yours already.........

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

What do you mean new stuff? If you mean TB's, I stopped doing them about a year ago, unless special circumstances. I'm just updating some of the first TB's Pro Bono to sleep better at night.

 

[Royalgtp]

how long would it take to redo one?


Can we meet up with that MAF sensor?

Ill meet you half way on the highway if that works out best.

Or, maybe you could mail it next day to me.....

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

I can meet on Sunday; I'll be tied up all Sat, and meeting halfway is fine. It'll take me a week or two to finish the TB, but it looks like you have a 2nd TB to use. It'd be nice to have a buffer, sometimes things come up and I can't dedicate time contiuosly for these projects and have to spread them out.

 

[horist]

FWIW... that P0102 code causes your car to run speed density... it uses built in tables , the MAP sensor, and O2s to determing fueling (and IAT) ... on a car not tuned to run in this mode (Speed Density) it will drive like shit, try to die alot, get horrible gas mileage, etc etc.....

Check your fuses also ... on an F-Body this code will set along w/others if the Engine Sensor fuse blowz... Only times I've seen it blow is when a wire for an O2 sensor gets too close to a header and rubs through... if the engine sensor fuse (or similar on a w-body) is blown , not only will it run Speed Density but the car will be forced into Open Loop all the time, which will make for really shitty driveability and fuel economy on a non tuned car

not sure if diagnostic procedure is the same for W and F Bodies but this may help to determine if the MAF is actually bad:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic9069.php

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

They didn't mention the "tap" test, which is how most mechanics actually look for a bad maf. I guess engineers don't want to look like fools asking the mechanics to tap the maf to see if the engine stumbles. A little too "backyard" for GM.

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

Here are some links to the "tap" test:
http://www.autoclassroom.com/ph/a8/tt/tt6.htm
http://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread...threadid=187765
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~dzug/gn/87gnetpg.html
http://www.focaljet.com/ubbthreads/showfla...938&Main=806061
http://www.bullittarchive.com/help/DTC/DTC.htm
http://www.hi-psi.net/forum/showthread.php?p=3753#post3753
http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20injecti...ng%20pg%20E.htm
http://www.lindertech.com/newsletters/nwk2...tap%20test'
http://www.uscartalk.com/_Olds_Ciera_V6_3_...2948-360-a.html

 

[horist]

damn... that method seems almost too easy heh ... you'll want to clear the SES first though, as long as that SES light is set the PCM is ignoring the MAF

 

[imported_Ron Vogel]

The circuitry inside the maf is pretty indestructible, but the circuitry resides in a "jelly" pillow, and 3 hair thin wires connect it to the harness. They tend to eventually fail, and tapping on it will show the break in the wire. I've dissassembled them before to see what's in them...it's a really simple device, but it's also something you can't readily make yourself so they charge an arm and a leg for them.

 

[Royalgtp]

im going to inspect fuse 19 and do the tap method.

I tried the TAP method b4 but the car was stumbling b4 I did it so....

Hopefully I get a nice clean start and can try the TAP test....Im also going to take another look at all wires around the headers, etc........did it already but who knows.


Check the vac lines again as well.... <_<

 

[Royalgtp]

tapped the hell out of the MAF and it worked great.....no problems...


Took it out and it was clean and the two wires looked great.


I checked the connections and was wiggling all of them around while the car was on.....I was hopping something would studer or something like that......nope...


Checked all the plug wires and non were close the headers....

Vac and boost lines all good...

Only thing out of spec would be the coil pack terminals which looked pretty bad.....even though I cleaned them off about 6months ago.

 

[dole21]

double check the connections to teh iccu....the ones on teh throttle body as well as the ones on the back of the iccu screen itself, I had a wire come loose off the back of my iccu and it set a code similar to that(might have been the same was a long time ago). I reconnected the wire and everything was fine then...