3800 Help Alert: Car Won't Start

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J

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
1,319
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  • #1
    On my way to work today - 1 block away from work - my car died. I'm almost sure my fuel pump hose came off again. My Walbro install is beginning to be more of a pain in the ass than anything. <_<

    Does anyone in the McHenry / Crystal Lake / Cary area have a fuel pump assembly I can borrow or buy? I've got 2 at home, but that doesn't help me. Not sure if I'll be able to rig it to get me home this time. I'll know more when I take it apart at lunch time. But I want a backup plan hence I'm asking for help.

    Damm, how to keep that corrugated hose from coming off!?!? It's on two ribs - and I even clamped it.

    J.E.T.
    '97 Red GTP - down at the moment. :(

    ----------------------------------------------

    I walked to my car to get my cough medicine (I'm a little sick on top of this problem). I looked at my fuel pressure and it's normal. So it can't be the fuel pump hose. So now I'm stumped. All critical fuses are OK, but I'll double check them again. I cannot get a code error reading because the OBDII wont connect if the engine is not running.

    Event that lead to failure: After patiently waiting for a truck to make a left turn, I hastily stepped on the go pedal eventually going to WOT. Right at the end of 1st gear (and I noticed 14psi of boost, damm) my engine seemed to rev freely as if in neutral. I immediately let go of the gas. I did not hear any metalic clunking or breakig noises. I came to a stop at a light and the engine died. It would not start afterwards. As of now, it cranks (sounds normal) but will not turn over.

    Ok - any input would be great. I'd like to go home at the end of the day!
    So far:
    - Fuses OK - will recheck
    - fuel pressure OK - the Caspers Hot Wire Kit is installed, so the resistor is bypassed.
    - Changed my MAF sensor two days ago.

    J.E.T.
    '97 Red GTP
    Click to read more...
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
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  • #4
    vacuum lines
    Click to expand...
    No, not a stupid thing at all. That also dawned on me while sitting here waiting for you guys to respond :unsure: . I'm so anxious to look at the car right now. It's sitting at a big parking lot next door to my company.

    Can't be tranny, right? It would start at least if it was tranny issues. Plus I did not hear any clunking whatsoever.

    J.E.T.
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
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  • #6
    My MAFT+ MAF connections are not connected right now. However, the timing circuit is still connected. I'll disconnect the MAFT+ unit entirely if I can find a nice slice connector for the MAFT+ PCM wiring.

    I'm hoping for the vacuum line blown off since I was at WOT with too much boost at 14psi.

    I'm going to see her right now. I hate having a 'bad car feeling' in the back of my head.

    J.E.T.
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
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  • #7
    Well, it's not a vacuum line. I now fear the worst. When I tried to start it this time, it sounded sick. But the few times I tried to start it before, it sounded normal.

    Looks like I'll be learning A LOT more on how the 3800 SeriesII operates the hard way. I'll need a ton of help though...

    J.E.T.
     
    L

    LPSPEED2

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,447
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    Addison
  • #8
    something similar happened to me and it was due to a bad tps (throttle position sensor), and a bad idle flow sensor. But when the idle sensor went bad, it would start up with me giving it some gas, but wouldnt idle, if i let off the gas it would shut down.

    I don't know if this will help, but im trying. Good luck.
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
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  • #10
    The car relies on the maf for start up fueling also. If it's not working, or something in the circuit is bad (maft+) it could be the issue. The scarier thing is the CPS, that'll do it too.
    Click to expand...

    Well, the MAFT+ is now completely out. The CPS was replaced about a year ago, so I'm hoping thats ok.

    Car was towed back to my place. I worked on it a little tonight. Tried another MAF sensor, fuel pressure still ok, took out the 3 front plugs for inspection (they were soaked in fuel, but otherwise looked ok), replaced the MSD coils with stock coils, and checked all fuses again. Tried to start her again and she wants to start (sounds like normal cranking again), but wont turn over.

    Thats it for tonight.

    I'm open for some suggestions guys.

    J.E.T.
     
    9

    98 TGP TOY

    TCG Elite Member
    Feb 9, 2008
    2,167
    0
    Morton, IL
  • #11
    Seems like you have checked a lot of fuel stuff. And you say that the spark plugs are soaked. So why not try spark. See if the spark plugs are firing. You probably know how to check it, but just in case. Pull all plugs out, then put one plug in the spark plug wire and ground the other end to the car. Then have someone try to turn the car over and look for spark. Just a thought...
     
    I

    imported_Ron Vogel

    Guest
  • #13
    Really sounds to me that the MAFT+ took a crap. Once the plugs get really soaked, it's hard to start. The unit must have prevented the CPS from picking up a signal. I'm wondering if now the ECU needs a case learn to get things going. It might be that no signal was getting through and everything needs to get reset.
     
    B

    beyerch

    Addict
    Jan 20, 2009
    704
    0
  • #14
    couple suggestions..

    #1 - You CAN talk to the pcm withj a scantool without the car running. The key must be in the on position though. With the car off, put the ebrake on, then turn the key on. This prevents the headlights from coming on and will preserve battery power.

    #2 - If you doubt the MAF, O2, or other sensor, DISCONNECT THEM. The pcm has built in back ups for the main sensors in the event of failure. A BAD MAF will prevent the car from starting/running; however, disconnecting it completely will allow the car to run.

    #3 - Make sure no wires got caught on headers/downpipe. I"ve seen that numerous times and it always causes problems.

    #4 - Did you check the oil and coolant yet to see if anything looks wrong there? Maybe you blew a headgasket?
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
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  • #15
    Yes, your right Charles. I finally did get the OBDII to scan without the engine running. No codes.

    Jamie came over and provided his expertise. Thanks a lot man.
    It fired up after changing the front plugs which were fouled. It was running super rich though. After changing the back plugs, it would not fire up again. We tried a few more things, dried up the plugs, and then I went inside to get more drinks. I come back into the garage and HOLY SMOKES!! The place was filled with smoke. I couldnt see Jamie or the car.

    Seems that the rear head gasket is now blown. I'll be tearing it apart immediately.

    I need suggestions and advise on this upcoming task. What else should I replaced while I'm down to the heads? Any tips or advise would be great.

    Currently, the car has the GPS Mild Cam and 135lb springs. I'm leaning towards replacing the heads with new '04 L32 heads.

    THANKS for everyone's help. I'll be needing a lot more in the next few days/weeks.

    J.E.T.
     
    J

    J.E.T.

    TCG Elite Member
    Nov 10, 2008
    1,319
    0
  • #17
    orrrrrr stage 2's
    Click to expand...
    At some point, I have to stop pouring money into the GTP. So, I won't be going the stage2 route. I'm looking for some 98+ heads now to replace my smaller 97's.

    It normally boosts up to 12psi. On this particular day, it went up to 14. I know 12 is a borderline high, but I've been running that kind of boost since the start of modding. I havent done too bad since this is my first major breakdown at 152k miles.

    So right now, I want 98+ heads and head kit. If anyone has any leads, please let me know. I need the part # for the heads kits so I can order it.

    J.E.T.
    '97 Red GTP - first down at 152k miles
     
    R

    rob

    TCG Elite Member
    Dec 28, 2008
    1,237
    0
  • #19
    I see now.....I agree with CoolGTX....Go with the MLS composite head gaskets with 12-14psi...I havent ran them in yet but they are supposed to be th hot lash...A set of fellpros may be close to that cost of the MLS's anyway...Felpro wanted $50 for valve cover gaskets.. :angry: The head studs are very nice and reuseable unlike the torque yeilds..

    I dont have any information on the L32 heads...A couple questions come to mind..Do they flow better? Whats the advantage of running them? Will they fit the L67? Will they negitively effect your valve train geometry?

    If you dont decide to go with the L32's. Have you L67's fluxed and cooked/cleaned. Then have them decked so you have a fresh and true mateing surface for the gaskets to seal. (especially the MLS) Then a fresh valve job...152k its time....Call around on the price..

    I PMed you on the heads...
     
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