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Old 02-10-2017, 01:56 PM   #1
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Default Wiring question, what would you do?

So I've been cleaning up under my dash and wiring in a radio and a tach. Both require a switched 12v source which I do have a single wire for that from the factory radio wiring. What would be the best way of connecting these two wires to this single one? Both have harnesses so they don't necessarily need to have disconnects.


Edit: taken care of. Thanks icecreamassassin
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:03 PM   #2
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There should be spare places to connect to your fuse box to run new wires for future things. Just use a meter and test which ones are key on 12v.
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:08 PM   #3
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I'd like to use the single wire I already have in that location (that was for the radio) for both the radio AND the gauge unless that's not a good idea?
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:36 PM   #4
 
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Most secure method is the one in the first picture

Wrench Tips #22 - Clean Splices

Wire Splices - TE Connectivity Amp - TE Connectivity AMP Connectors - Wire Splices | Online Catalog | DigiKey Electronics

This is the crimper.
1 Open Style Crimp Tool Wiring Harness Crimper Open Barrel 22-10 AWG Plier Tool
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:53 PM   #5
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Yea, I know how to splice and have crimpers. I generally do this technique, solder than use self adhering tape.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:10 PM   #6
 
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Just saying I use the crimps at the top and haven't had a failure yet. If you wanted to you could add a 4th wire for any future gauges. Otherwise you start getting into power distribution type things which seems like overkill.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:13 PM   #7
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Just electric tape that shit... it's an old beater Buick anyways.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:14 PM   #8
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That's how the PO did it


I literally pulled the radio out with the wiring harness
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:46 PM   #9
 
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I like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-H.../dp/B000GKEXK2

I be leery of hooking anything in line with a radio. Could be noice/interference one way or another.
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Old 02-10-2017, 04:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-H.../dp/B000GKEXK2

I be leery of hooking anything in line with a radio. Could be noice/interference one way or another.
I've got AGC fuses
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:14 PM   #11
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buy something like this: CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits/Weatherproof (3 Constant - 4 Ign.)Details | Painless Performance

easy to add more circuits at your leisure. i've used one on the past couple cars instead of hacking wiring
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:47 PM   #12
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My thought is something similar to what was just posted. A simple distribution block would be ideal if you plan to tap into it in the future. I wouldn't think there would be much voltage drop issues with it if you hooked a few more wires into it. Not entirely sure on that.
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:50 PM   #13
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they make them with less/more circuits as well
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:51 PM   #14
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wiring is one of those things that you're better off spending some dollars to get a clean install. it always seems to bite you in the ass later
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:57 PM   #15
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The first technique posted here has always been my go to method. Never had any issues from using that.
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:35 PM   #16
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I have an auxiliary fuse box installed in the cucv with a relay to power up when the ignition is on. That thing required more custom wiring due to not being wired for a radio and only having one spot for a key on power source (and half the fuse box being 24v )


I ended up just using the oem key on for the radio and using an open aux connector for the tach. Speedhut has daisy chain wiring harnesses so when I get more gauges it'll now just be plug and play. I'll update my build thread soon enough.
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:04 PM   #17
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I recommend adding an auxiliary fuse panel. It helps keep things clean and you don't have to hack the factory harness.

Here is what I did in my fox body. I ran a 6ga wire from the battery to an 80 amp continuous duty relay. The relay powers up the fuse panel when the key is on.

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Old 02-10-2017, 10:14 PM   #18
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Nice setup.
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:49 PM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LikeABauce302 View Post
I recommend adding an auxiliary fuse panel. It helps keep things clean and you don't have to hack the factory harness.

Here is what I did in my fox body. I ran a 6ga wire from the battery to an 80 amp continuous duty relay. The relay powers up the fuse panel when the key is on.

If you plan on adding more than a few things this really is the right way to do it. They make them in 6 fuse instead of twelve if you don't need that much expansion.

There a nothing wrong with a mechanical splice as long as it's done properly.
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Old 02-11-2017, 09:36 PM   #20
 
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@ekrunch used a nice piece from Painless that had relays built in.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IceCreamAssassin View Post
There should be spare places to connect to your fuse box to run new wires for future things. Just use a meter and test which ones are key on 12v.
Worked perfect, thanks man!



I didn't know I needed a $100 harness to power a tach
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Old 02-13-2017, 11:52 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OffshoreDrilling View Post
buy something like this: CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits/Weatherproof (3 Constant - 4 Ign.)Details | Painless Performance

easy to add more circuits at your leisure. i've used one on the past couple cars instead of hacking wiring


Quote:
Originally Posted by Milhouse View Post
@ekrunch used a nice piece from Painless that had relays built in.


Best decision I ever made. I have one similar to the one quoted here except mine has 7 outputs that are switched power. All wire, relays, circuit breakers, and fuses included from Painless Performance. Everything is soldered in place and sealed too.

Highly recommended.
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Old 02-13-2017, 12:04 PM   #23
 
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Problem solved that is good . But I myself wouldn't run just one 12v power to feed both the radio and tach . 12v can be split though . pretty sure it would be ok . That's just me .

With connecting wires ... if you are make shift splicing shit together like two wires into one , the easiest way is using step down butt crimps . You can even heat shrink after wards . Fuck soldering . It's a radio and an accessory , not an ecm .
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Old 02-13-2017, 12:35 PM   #24
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I run my tach's 12v source into my ignition switch. Key on tach on... Never had a problem, been that way for 10 years.

I made a relay panel back in October when I added nitrous. I had relays for my waterpump, fuel pump and fans but they were all over in different spots on the car. Plus I wanted everything else to be on relays and on one board for a cleaner look and easy trouble shooting if something went wrong. Turned out pretty good for my first one and doing it on the cheap. The next one that I do for my other car will be better.
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Old 02-13-2017, 01:03 PM   #25
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