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Old 03-02-2016, 07:21 PM   #1
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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Couple quick questions for LS engine peeps. I think I'm fucked.

I removed the head on the drivers side of my truck, did not drain coolant so when I removed the head it was like a waterfall to the floor. I drained the oil today and found coolant when I started draining oil. Could this be just from some of the water sitting on the Pistons.

Now the big question, as I was getting ready to torque the very back bottom bolt the bolt was getting close to the torque and I hear a crack sound kind of like breaking a pencil. Then the bolt turned one more rotation quite easily then torqued down just like the others. Did this bolt crack the block and get coolant Into the oil? If this was not the case if the block cracked at this hole does it matter?
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:29 PM   #2
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You need to clear out the bolt holes of all fluids, else you create hydraulic pressure as you reinstall the bolts which can actually crack the block. I'd take the bolt out, remove the head and inspect the hole for damage. Make sure you clean out all your other head bolt holes! A whole house vac works great for this purpose.

Coolant in the oil which is being drained is no big deal, just don't run the engine until you have all the coolant out of the oil.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:36 PM   #3
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I'm going to be the fucking asshole here.

Why the fuck did you pull a head and not drain the cooling system?
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:01 PM   #4
 
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i've busted water pump bolts and that behavior sure reminds me of it
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:29 PM   #5
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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I think I'm fucked, I think I will just have to see what happens as I have the heads torqued down and the exhaust manifolds hooked back up and torqued, rockers back in etc. I'm waiting on a few more parts to arrive.

Do you think I can pressurize the cooling system to check for the crack if there is one?

Also if the block did crack would you still be able to torque plus the 90, 90 without other problems?
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:45 PM   #6
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Yes you can, it is a tool you can rent from the local parts store.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:47 AM   #7
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It's likely the coolant pressure check won't show anything, but might give you some sense of security.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:59 AM   #8
 
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I feel like taking the head back off to check is a small price to pay compared to a leak hydro locking the cylinder and costing you an entire engine. Do it right or don't do it at all.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:04 AM   #9
 
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does this bolt now turn easily with your finger? I would check.

Quote:
torque the very back bottom bolt the bolt was getting close to the torque and I hear a crack sound kind of like breaking a pencil. Then the bolt turned one more rotation quite easily then torqued down just like the others.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:58 AM   #10
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I'd suggest spraying at least 250 at it. For science.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:56 PM   #11
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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No that bolt won't turn by finger. I ended up torquing it to the required 90 degrees on the second pass and the additional 90 degrees on the final pass. Give or take a couple degrees.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:59 PM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by SilentShado View Post
No that bolt won't turn by finger. I ended up torquing it to the required 90 degrees on the second pass and the additional 90 degrees on the final pass. Give or take a couple degrees.
What year is this truck and is it a 5.3? Are you sure its 90 degrees both times? I only ask because when I look up specs on a 5.3... first pass is 22 ft lbs, second pass is 90 degrees, final pass is then 70 degrees. The smaller baby bolts at the top are 22 Ft lbs total
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:01 PM   #13
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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It's a 2005. The torque specs I got were 22 foot pounds first pass, 90 second pass and 90 final pass besides bolt the two outside bolts under the rockets to 50 degrees. And the 5 baby bolts 22 foot pounds.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:02 PM   #14
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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Those would be bolts 9 and ten in the sequence.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:04 PM   #15
 
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Maybe I have the wrong vehicle or engine. I looked up a 2005 Silverado with a 5.3 engine. That is the most common engine so I guessed.... The specs are what I stated above. If the engine or truck is different let me know. If not then you over torqued your bolts
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:06 PM   #16
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It is an Isuzu Ascender I believe.

Per:

http://www.thechicagogarage.com/foru...-question.html
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:08 PM   #17
 
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Ah I had no idea it was an Isuzu..... I stand corrected. For some weird reason this 5.3 has the 90/90 sequence? lol Silly GM engines what are you doing!
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:13 PM   #18
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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I'm going to do as suggested and take it apart and stick a camera in the hole. After doing this should I get new head bolts again, as well as head gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket, seeing that they have been torqued down?

It's a 2005 isuzu ascender I believe it's the lq9 motor.. Lemme check the vin again.

Correction it's the LH6 motor.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:19 PM   #19
 
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You should be able to reuse everything. Its just been bolted down briefly it was never started or heated up to expand and contract and seal.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:27 PM   #20
303 HP+315 ft lbs = 1 GXP with 2 bald bridgestones
 
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Awesome thanks bud. I might end up spending the few bucks and buying new head bolts just in case as I did torque them.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:47 PM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentShado View Post
I'm going to do as suggested and take it apart and stick a camera in the hole. After doing this should I get new head bolts again, as well as head gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket, seeing that they have been torqued down?

It's a 2005 isuzu ascender I believe it's the lq9 motor.. Lemme check the vin again.

Correction it's the LH6 motor.
You should be fine reusing the head gasket and exhaust manifold gasket, but you have to get new head bolts. They are TTY and can't be reused after they have been torqued.

Take one of the old head bolts and cut a couple grooves into the threads. It will work kind of like a tap and will make cleaning the head bolt holes super easy.

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Old 03-03-2016, 10:11 PM   #22
 
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^excatly. Torque to yield bolts can only be used one time. I would take the head back off and get a good look at that hole. It's an aluminum block and most likely fine, sometimes these head bolts make funny noises as they stretch. Sometimes torque wrenches do the same...In this case it's better to be safe than sorry.

Why did you pull the head in the first place? And yes, drain the oil. Be prepared as the coolant will come out first
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentShado View Post
Couple quick questions for LS engine peeps. I think I'm fucked.

I removed the head on the drivers side of my truck, did not drain coolant so when I removed the head it was like a waterfall to the floor. I drained the oil today and found coolant when I started draining oil. Could this be just from some of the water sitting on the Pistons.

Now the big question, as I was getting ready to torque the very back bottom bolt the bolt was getting close to the torque and I hear a crack sound kind of like breaking a pencil. Then the bolt turned one more rotation quite easily then torqued down just like the others. Did this bolt crack the block and get coolant Into the oil? If this was not the case if the block cracked at this hole does it matter?
The oil in the coolant is the water draining from inside the head and water jackets into the block and making it way into the oil pan. You 100% need to do an oil change.

Most likely you cracked the block/hole in the block because you didnt clean the coolant out and since water doesnt compress, something else is going to give.
Check outside of that bolthole on the block and see if you can see a crack or anything.

And yes, if you pull the head back off, you need new bolts.
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:34 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate View Post
^excatly. Torque to yield bolts can only be used one time. I would take the head back off and get a good look at that hole. It's an aluminum block and most likely fine, sometimes these head bolts make funny noises as they stretch. Sometimes torque wrenches do the same...In this case it's better to be safe than sorry.

Why did you pull the head in the first place? And yes, drain the oil. Be prepared as the coolant will come out first
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentShado View Post
I am working on replacing the afm lifters in my isuzu ascender, basically a gnc envoy. It has the 5.3 litre vortec. First question, when I removed the head one alignment pin was on the block and the other one was still on the head. Is this correct as every motor I worked on had the pins in the block. Second question, when I unbolted the lifter tray and pulled it out the only lifters that came out with the tray was the afm lifters, the standard stayed in. Should the lifters come out with the trays or do you need to remove them after the trays are removed. Lastly I purchased a new valve lifter oil manifold. This part looks different than the old one. Does something need to be swapped over from the old one to the new one or is it a direct bolt in, also don't know the torque for this piece.

Thanks for all the help
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