Brake install trouble

[nytebyte]

I just installed new pads and rotors on a 2002 Mustang GT (stock PBR calipers). Everything went smoothly, including bleeding, until I went to put the caliper back on with the new brake pads. I had to really push it to get it into position on both sides.

After taking it for a test drive, I noticed the brakes are dragging and not releasing all the way. Brakes feel like they're working OK when you press the pedal, but they drag and eventually get hot.

Any ideas on what it could be? What should I check?

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[wolfe]

Sticky caliper maybe?

 

[IZZy]

First question is why did you bleed the system if you were just changing rotors and pads?

Sounds like a caliper could be seized, after the test drive check the brakes and see if they are getting hot and look for a burning smell.

 

[nytebyte]

Yes, they are getting hot and burning.

I bled the brakes since that's usually the standard procedure for replacing pads. I supposed I didn't have to, but the bleed procedure was uneventful.

 

[bimmer4life]

I just installed new pads and rotors on a 2002 Mustang GT (stock PBR calipers). Everything went smoothly, including bleeding, until I went to put the caliper back on with the new brake pads. I had to really push it to get it into position on both sides.

After taking it for a test drive, I noticed the brakes are dragging and not releasing all the way. Brakes feel like they're working OK when you press the pedal, but they drag and eventually get hot.

Any ideas on what it could be? What should I check?

So what do you mean you had to really push it into position. Did the piston in the caliper not go far enough in the caliper so the pads where tight on the rotor when putting back on? Take it back apart one side and make sure piston is going in and out and not seized

 

[Lord Tin Foilhat]

Also some calipers "twist in" instead of push in.

I also never bleed them on a standard pad/rotor change unless it needs it.

 

[bimmer4life]

Also some calipers "twist in" instead of push in.

I also never bleed them on a standard pad/rotor change unless it needs it.

True dat. Used to hate changing pads on my brothers Lincoln LS. Even with the tool I would bust my knuckles. X2 on bleeding.

 

[Flyn]

On most cars, I use a C clamp to push in the fronts and that tool to twist in the rears. Hate that tool. Grr.

 

[guspech750]

Sounds like the calipers are seized.

Bleeding + pad/rotor install = FTL.

 

[deviantlx]

Bleeding the brakes while changing the pads isn't "the standard" just an FYI.

 

[nytebyte]

Well, as far as I've been taught, bleeding the brakes is the final step in the process. It gets fresh fluid down in the caliper and removes any air bubbles that may have formed over the years. I've always done it this way.

Anyway, the calipers seemed tight before I even bled them. Couldn't turn the hub by hand.

 

[sickmint79]

i bleed if i've cooked them at a track day to the point of fade.

this year with bbk i don't think i'll cook anymore, but the high temp fluid loses its ability to operate up there over time/winter so my plan is to bleed it every spring before the season.

i wouldn't include it with every pad change, with street driving i don't know what is normal really but seems like you could get away with a few years..??

 

[nytebyte]

Well, it looks like you guys were right. One of the pistons on the drivers side is sticking, but the passenger side is OK.

It appears that it was doing this even with the old pads. I took a closer look at the old pads and the drivers side inboard pad is worn about twice the amount compared to passenger side pad. It's also worn unevenly on one side of the pad which seems to indicate that it's the piston on the right (as you're looking at the caliper) which is sticking.

I can give it a little squeeze with a c-clamp and it frees up the rotor, but as soon as I step on the brake again, it gets stuck. It's not real bad, but it's definitely dragging.

I went on a short drive and then took a temperature reading of all four rotors with an infrared thermometer. The passenger side front rotor and both rears were 130 degrees, but the driver's side front was 168.

Crap.

 

[nytebyte]

On most cars, I use a C clamp to push in the fronts and that tool to twist in the rears. Hate that tool. Grr.

Did the rears on the Cobra a while back and it was a PITA, even with the special tool. You really need to put the caliper in a vise, or find a way to secure to make it easier. I don't look forward to doing that again.

As for bleeding the brakes, this particular Mustang I'm working on is going on 13 years old. It was due for a bleeding IMO. The brake fluid came out very cloudy on both sides. I bled the calipers until the fluid cleared up.

The brake pedal is firm and feels perfect.