đź’¦ Detailing Detailing crew - I want to learn how to buff

daturbosix

HNIC @ GoodFellas Garage
TCG Sponsor
Mar 2, 2008
16,367
15,194
Aurora
Real Name
Jeff
so i got this 20 year old chevy truck, i bet its never been buffed.
got OK paint imo.. but there is a bunch of crap all over it.

ive never buffed anything in my life. only waxed stuff with a orbital polisher and/or by hand.

so who can suggest some things, tell me what i gotta go buy, link me some youtube videos, or... i buy beer, and you come out and show me how to do this shit?

:noes:
 

daturbosix

HNIC @ GoodFellas Garage
TCG Sponsor
Mar 2, 2008
16,367
15,194
Aurora
Real Name
Jeff
honestly, I'm surprised you don't know how! It's not rocket science to do a decent job. I'll let other people chime in here about equipment. I'm rocking three harbor freight polishers I've dropped and cracked the housings on because I'm a cheap ass.

never had a reason to buff any car i had. lol.. i just never cared.
 

greasy

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Jun 25, 2007
36,909
28,929
My only issue with the da type is it takes way too long to do a hardcore paint correction, with my high speed I can do days worth of work in hours, then I just touch it up with something light on the porter cable and call it a day


The Porter Cable DA sucks because it has no power. The Flex is awesome and actually corrects because it has power.
 

Grabber

Oh Hai
Dec 11, 2007
4,363
860
Wheeling, IL
I've been using a PC for about 8 years now on/off and it has done major correction on cars that really needed it. Technique, pads and compounds/polishes are a contributing factor to paint correction. You can use a Flex or Rupes and depending on the compound you use, results will vary.

Primarily, I use a Flex DA and correction time is half of what it takes the PC to do. However, the Flex can actually cause damage to your paint if used incorrectly. The PC is by far the safest DA out there and it's been tested by various detailers that are well known as have I that is is extremely difficult to harm the paint even if you're trying to.

I'd suggest the PC 7424XP or the Griots Garage DA to start out as a beginner. Once you get acclimated, move up to the Flex DA and then to a Rotary and then to a Rupes.

When I have time to detail I switch between the PC and Flex. I love both. To date, I've probably go over 500 hours of use with my PC and over 100 with my Flex only because I've had it for 2 years vs. 5+ years for the PC.

As far as compounds/polishes, I'm a huge fan of Menzerna, Adam's and Megs 105/205 for heavier correction.

Check out Autogeek for a basic starter kit with a PC or Griots Garage for their starter kits with their DA which has a bit more power than a PC.
 

1quick

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Jan 29, 2008
26,554
24,006
coal city
For someone that's never attempted any sort of buffing I could see the porter cable being a good first step, I had been buffing with a high speed for 15 years before I bought one though and I was mostly disappointed but I do use it to wax and do minor swirl mark removal
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
For someone that's never attempted any sort of buffing I could see the porter cable being a good first step, I had been buffing with a high speed for 15 years before I bought one though and I was mostly disappointed but I do use it to wax and do minor swirl mark removal

The PC can be effective as a paint correction tool. Just depends on the pad/compound. I used an LC yellow pad and M105 on my buddy's old maxima a few years back to remove some deep scratches and oxidation. It worked flawlessly. I had to be careful too because with that heavy of a pad, it would dull the hell out of the surface. Never burn it tho.

I used the LC orange pad and M105/m205 on my cars for years. Got glass like results. It was only when I switched to a rotary with the same mindset I had for using the PC, was when I burned the mustang. I should have never switched from the PC. I was able to even buff out 2000+ grit wet sanding marks with it. Watch Junkman 2000 on youtube. Hes the PC and Flex master. Tons of videos wetsanding and buffing with both the PC and flex. Lots of great info.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

If you fail to plan, you're planning to fail
TCG Sponsor
TCG Premium
Mar 3, 2008
39,009
14,690
Pingree Grove IL
What year is the truck Jeff ? Single stage paint ? probably not.
Do you know if any body work was done to it ?

Just wondering about the thickness of the clear...Not sure any of us weekend detailers own a meter.

I use a PC, works just fine with pads / polish combos. Flex is pricey unless you can find one used.

I would buy a clay bar kit and clay a section of the roof, this will give you an idea on whether the clay will mar the finish ( induce micro swirls ). This should give you an idea of how much actual polishing ( paint correction ) is going to be needed.
 

TCG Member 5219

TCG Elite Member
Mar 22, 2005
12,447
18
Wait, you burned the paint with a PC?

No with a rotary. I bought one from harbor freight. Thought I was ready for it, but I wasnt.

I used the PC for 8 years and had no issues with it. I would consider myself a very advanced user of the PC. Rotary on the other hand. Took just a few seconds of too much pressure to get through the clear and color coat... I could lean on that PC with my full weight and actually stop the movement when it was on 6, so it was safe. Again, with the yellow pad and a heavy compound you can dull paint pretty quick with a PC, but you can just puff it right out again after.

They even make orange peel removal pads for the PC and others that work really well. Again very safe.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info