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Thread: To coil over or not to coil over v.A-body front suspension Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-07-2018 09:52 AM
JBruno88 I modified my stock A arms on my 67 chevelle to fit qa1 single adjustable shocks up front.

Hope this helps.
01-20-2018 04:23 PM
Mr_Roboto
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikemtb999 View Post
ok guy who just told me you “typically” disassemble the entire front suspension to install shocks
Usually I do bushings and ball joints at the same time so it's apart anyways. Sounds like you'll be in there anyways.
01-20-2018 03:25 PM
HILROD Glitchy double post.
01-20-2018 03:22 PM
HILROD If you read above you can unbolt the lower arms, not the balljoint and install the spring and the shock together.
01-20-2018 12:54 PM
ilikemtb999 ok guy who just told me you “typically” disassemble the entire front suspension to install shocks
01-20-2018 12:52 PM
Mr_Roboto I think you are way over complicating this. Just saying.
01-20-2018 12:26 PM
ilikemtb999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Roboto View Post
So, your reason for wanting to cut is you cannot get the shock through the hole to install?

Usually you pop the spindle off, unbolt the shock/cut the bolts and then use a jack to raise everything in place. The shock does not go up through the arm. Bolt up the top and you are done.
I’ve always changed shocks thru that hole on any gm. I’ve never once had to pop a ball joint and remove a spring to install a shock.........
01-20-2018 12:10 PM
Mr_Roboto
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikemtb999 View Post
The diameter of the shock is what doesnít fit, not so much the knob.
So, your reason for wanting to cut is you cannot get the shock through the hole to install?

Usually you pop the spindle off, unbolt the shock/cut the bolts and then use a jack to raise everything in place. The shock does not go up through the arm. Bolt up the top and you are done.
01-20-2018 10:30 AM
ilikemtb999
Quote:
Originally Posted by HILROD View Post
I've seen someones coilover kit that cuts out the upper spring mount/shock hole so you can run a longer spring/shock, but don't remember who sells that.
Umi has a kit for that I think but it’s expensive and yea you have to modify the frame quite a bit.
01-20-2018 10:30 AM
ilikemtb999 The diameter of the shock is what doesn’t fit, not so much the knob.
01-20-2018 10:29 AM
HILROD I've seen someones coilover kit that cuts out the upper spring mount/shock hole so you can run a longer spring/shock, but don't remember who sells that.
01-20-2018 10:27 AM
HILROD You can die grind the arms with a carbide burr. You can also unbolt the pivot bolts from the frame and install the shock and spring that way. You cut way less that way. Some adjustable shocks just need none, some only for the knob.
01-20-2018 10:04 AM
daturbosix
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikemtb999 View Post
Theyíve got a bunch of spring rates available. Do you know which ones you have up front?
450lb up front
125/12s in rear(in stock location)
01-19-2018 07:05 PM
ilikemtb999
Quote:
Originally Posted by HILROD View Post
I WAS BUSY! Now coil overs are a compromise on most front end swap in. Mostly they are too short to work real well unless you run them super stiff. I personally would never use them on a stock front suspension. If you are dead set on it keep the ride height as high as you can and use their arms to fit them. If you use a front spring like a Hodgkiss or Detroit speed and any decent front shock you will be way better off. Don't be scared of higher spring rates,I think I run 700+ spring rates up front and it rides decent. Just make sure you have good control arm bushings, not rubber.
I think I've decided to keep my stock style setup and run the hotchkis springs I have and the QA1 single adjustable shocks. Have you ever installed any? Trying to decide on the best course of action to open up the access hole while not compromising where the shocks mount on the stock A arm.
01-19-2018 06:35 PM
HILROD I WAS BUSY! Now coil overs are a compromise on most front end swap in. Mostly they are too short to work real well unless you run them super stiff. I personally would never use them on a stock front suspension. If you are dead set on it keep the ride height as high as you can and use their arms to fit them. If you use a front spring like a Hodgkiss or Detroit speed and any decent front shock you will be way better off. Don't be scared of higher spring rates,I think I run 700+ spring rates up front and it rides decent. Just make sure you have good control arm bushings, not rubber.
01-19-2018 05:36 PM
ilikemtb999
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intel View Post
Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
Pretty sure these are the ones my wife bought me. My car never came with a rear and the front disappeared somewhere so she surprised me with some.

Stock front I think is 1 1/8”
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-720202/overview/

Rear
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-720208
01-19-2018 04:18 PM
Mr_Roboto
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intel View Post
Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
That's the big reason you see people doing things like tall ball joints on these cars; They weren't parallel with the other parts so they'd end up bump steering. It's one of the reasons the b-body spindle swap sucks tbh, you make the angles worse in reality.
01-19-2018 02:12 PM
EmersonHart13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gav'sPurpleZ View Post
where is @HILROD
infinite wisdon
Tagged him too but nothing yet.
01-19-2018 02:11 PM
Gav'sPurpleZ where is @HILROD
infinite wisdon
01-19-2018 02:04 PM
Unitsn4
Quote:
Originally Posted by greasy View Post
Looks hot as hell!

THOSE WHEELS ARE MONEYYYYYYYYYY

Thanks!
01-19-2018 01:28 PM
EmersonHart13 Yeah, get it on the road! Spring is coming soon
01-19-2018 01:26 PM
Intel
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikemtb999 View Post
I went with fairly large sway bars. Iím not afraid of a rough ride if itís planted in turns. Really just looking for a fun canyon carver since there are so many good roads here.
Is there a link to the sway bars so I can see what rate they are?

If you drop too much than the tie rods get at an angle that is not parallel with the other parts you will get bumpsteer.

Honestly I would get it put together with what you have drive it and see what it feels like and if need be go to a higher or lower spring rate.
01-19-2018 01:19 PM
greasy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unitsn4 View Post
The newer trend seems to be a higher spring rate than what used to be recommended in the rear and a slightly softer one in the front. While a completely different animal...I believe my rate in the rear is now 275 and 450 front (IIRC). This pic is when it was too low to not be white knuckled while city driving (Ridetech level 2 550/160 4 link rear):



It's a little bit higher now and still in a rebuild with a completely different suspension again.
Looks hot as hell!

THOSE WHEELS ARE MONEYYYYYYYYYY
01-19-2018 01:14 PM
Unitsn4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaj Yak View Post
well holy shit

Ha ha...thanks!
01-19-2018 01:05 PM
Yaj Yak well holy shit
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