600hp Turbo K20Z3 Civic build (ongoing

This car has gone through a lot of though, changes, blood, sweat, and pain. But totally worth it. I'm sure the end results are quite fitting.
My goal were/are simple: All year round daily driver sleeper that's a highway beast and safe for the drivetrain with the occasional circuit race

Some of the parts may/may not make sense. So I'll clarify on the goals. I dont want to max out the engine. I want to go for quick spool rather than HP/Dyno queen. Yes I could have made more power and cheaper, but then the reliability wouldnt be there. On the 440whp setup, I've gone 36k miles with only 7% leakdown and a perfect compression test on stock internals. I wanted to do the same in the reliability department, but make sure that all the internals can withstand the abuse w/o having to worry something (like the trans) will break after hammering on it.

Turbo Kit related:
SRT (Swift Racing Technologies) v2 Turbo kit
vband T3 precision 6262 billet turbo .64 a/r velocity stacked
4" Intake
vband tial qbov
vband tial 44mm Wastegate
44mm downpipe
3" Downpipe mandrel bent
3" Intercooler core
2.5" Intercooler piping
SRT Tubular manifold (equal length)
3" dual resonated SRT exhaust w/Vibrant muffler and 4" tip mandrel bent

Fuel related:
Skunk2 carbon composite Fuel rail
1000cc SRT modified Bosch injectors flowtested at 950cc
Aeromotive A1000 FPR (external)
Aeromotive 12301 10 micron inline fuel filter
2x walbro 255lph fuel pump (yes, 2 walbro's)
SRT CNC billet dual fuel hanger
-8an fuel feed SS braided
-6an return SS braided

Engine Internals:
Hybrid Racing chain Tensioner
Pauter H-beam Rods
Arias Pistons 10:1 86.5mm w/Swaintech skirts coated and w/ upgraded pins
NGK 9 spark plugs gapped to ".020

Head Internals:
ARP head studs
Kelford KEL-179-T1 Stage 1 Turbo cams
supertech valves
supertech dual springs
supertech titanium seats and retainers
supertech block guard
viton valve seals

Engine Externals:
skunk2 72mm DBW Throttle body (anodized black)
Low temp thermostat
Hondata intake manifold gasket
DEI Titanium t3 turbo blanket
DEI Titanium 2"x50' wrap (manifold and downpipe)
-10an tapped oil pan return
Hasport 75A Motor mounts

Electrical:
Hondata Flashpro
Hondata Boost solenoid (BBG)
AEM TruBoost Boost controller (used as boost gauge)
AEM Wideband
Apexi Turbo timer

Suspension:
Stance Supersport+ 12k rear/8k front 15way dampening coilovers
Buddy Club n1 rear camber arms
Full Race traction balls (LCA bushing replacement/inserts)
Wilwood 6 piston race calipers
Wilwood 12.8" 2 piece rotors

Internal cosmetics
XLR8 dual gauge pod
Silver dash highlights

External cosmetics
HFP Underbody kit
OEM Fog lamps

Machine work:
bore .5mm over (essentially to get rid of imperfections)
port match intake manifold inlet to throttlebody (+12mm difference)
Main/rod bearing tolerance check and balance

In the making/ To be installed
DIY Venom oil catch can
Hondata Traction control unit
Tophat pillar brace

Trans
Albins 1-4 Gears
Acura TSX 5th gear
Synchrotec carbon Synchros
RSX 1-2 cones

Cooling
Mishimoto Silicone Radiator hoses
Mishimoto Radiator core
Mishimoto dual highspeed radiator fans

Misc
K20a2 oil chain
K20a2 oil pump
K20a2 oil pump gear
OEM headgasket
front main seal (crankshaft)
rear main seal (crankshaft)

17x9 Enkei PF01SS rims
Dunlop Direzza Z1 Starspecs 245/40r17

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tsx 5th gear, rsx oil pump, oil pump sprocket, synchrotech carbon synchros

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Should be a fun ride and at that power level it will be a beast. Good luck with the puck clutch though, I had one and couldn't wait to rip it out. First gear was a bitch and shifts are hard on the drivetrain.

Actually, I like it. I've been driving on the 4 puck for a year now. Feels almost no different than the 6 puck. Love Competition clutches.
 
Updates!
Found out about a month after Wannagofast that I had MASSIVE exhaust leaks, and all kinds of weird issues (faulty o2 sensor, faulty narrowband, etc), traction control completely tuned incorrectly (not fast enough response, bad calculations, etc)

I had a broken vband flange just off the turbo exhaust housing (doh!) causing massively lower response times and weird hesitations. I had a 2nd exhaust leak coming off the middle of the exhaust (again at a flange), but this time at a 3 point flange. I got them both fixed (replace vband with newer vband that had rings to create a non-sliding fit between the 2 pipes), replaced the 3 point flange with vband as well. This worked for approximately 3 months, and now my 2 point screw flange had the exhaust gasket break (lol....) So I just ordered up a new gasket. I also saw some oil leaking from the underside and have been smelling oil burning all of a sudden. I'll investigate once I get under the car. I have a feeling the return tube going from the turbo to oilpan or the flanges on the return feed are main reason for all the oil under the car.

Now I know why I had such crappy boost at the 1/2 mile. Wheeee....
to be continued....
 
welp, I fixed my major exhaust leak (lol, bolt fell off from 1 of the 2 bolts on the flange)
I believe I have still a small exhaust leak closer to the turbo (like pinhole small)

I'm also having issues with my front left abs sensor. This in turn is making my traction control go haywire and not work :(

To be continued...

On a related note, anybody got a little civic beater they are selling?
 
So I'm driving on the highway, talking to my mechanic and I get an enourmous exhaust leak that forms as I'm talking to him on the phone. A sort of rock hitting sound comes from somewhere in front/below me and the exhaust leak that formed is Definitely PRE-Turbo.....
This had me worried. I limped home, parked it, and then couldnt look at it for 3 days while it rained. Come to find out: Wastegate inlet vband came clean off (the clamp) WTF???? Even worse, somehow the banjo bolt on the wastegate that connects to vacuum hosing came off as well. Thank god the bolt somehow fell straight down and got stuck on the subframe. Was able to recover it.

ordered a new vband clamp, $28 bucks (thieves) and 2 day shipping for another 15 bucks (uggh).
Piece of stinking metal for almost 50 bucks. Not happy about that. My guess is the screw worked its way out on the clamp. Put me in a bit of a foul mood for how small of an issue it truly is.

Other news: I'm about to buy replacement rotors since this past season I just about wore through my first set (lol). Also looking to change my suspension since the adjusters rusted in place on the dampners and they're set to rock hard. Adjuster knobs are on the bottom instead of the top hat's. I'll make sure that they are on the tophats next time. I do like the ratio's of 8k/12k front/rear.
 

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