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Old 01-25-2014, 05:42 PM   #1
 
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Exclamation CEL, running rough, stalling...

Hello-
I have been having some issues with the MM. My car has the following mods:

Zack tune
4.10
JLT intake
SW headers & exhaust
Factory COP with GMS connectors

For starters the car has been throwing P0171 and P0174 on and off for a while. I am under the impression it is a vacuum leak somewhere as the car was running fine. Recently the car started stumbling, running rough, and rich exhaust smell at an idle. It would also occasionally stall right after being started. It has gotten worse where the car will now stall if it's let to sit and idle for about 3-4 minutes. It still drives good with no detectable issues until I come to a stop. When it stalls it does not make any funny noises its as if the key was shut off. I scanned the codes and the following showed up:

P0171 lean bank 1
P0173 lean bank 2
P1131 OP2 sensor 1 bank 1
P1151 Heated O2
P1235 Fuel pump out of range

I cleaned the iac real good and reset the codes. Cleaning the iac did not help the stalling at idle. The car seems to run fine in traffic. I have driven it about 70 miles after clearing the codes and the light is still out.

Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:07 PM   #2
 
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Well let's see.... You cleaned the IAC.... You probably already checked the MAF.... Cleaned the TB.... Right? LOL!!!

It sounds like you've got a vacuum leak to throw a lean code on both banks. Look over the fitting that goes from the pcv tube to the upper intake (these are prone to cracking). If you need a replacement shoot me a PM.

If the intake fitting is OK your EGR valve is stuck in the open position. Replace it.

Carry on......
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:09 PM   #3
 
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Well let's see.... You cleaned the IAC.... You probably already checked the MAF.... Cleaned the TB.... Right? LOL!!!

It sounds like you've got a vacuum leak to throw a lean code on both banks. Look over the fitting that goes from the pcv tube to the upper intake (these are prone to cracking). If you need a replacement shoot me a PM.

If the intake fitting is OK your EGR valve is stuck in the open position.

Carry on......
is there a way to check the EGR or just replace it? I have one of your catch cans on the car so that hose is a non issue. I only assumed the IAC because the car would stall when started. I didn't do anything with the MAF or TB.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:21 PM   #4
 
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That was just an inside joke with a few of us here. I've got a document saved on one of my PC's on how to test if it's working correct let me look.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:31 PM   #5
 
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That was just an inside joke with a few of us here. I've got a document saved on one of my PC's on how to test if it's working correct let me look.
Gotcha. If I had to guess that is what everyone says is wrong with their car if they have problems.

That would be awesome if you find that doc
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:39 PM   #6
 
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That was just an inside joke with a few of us here. I've got a document saved on one of my PC's on how to test if it's working correct let me look.
Didn't we gave this same problem with my EGR? If I remember correctly, it has something to do with when it idles and doesn't close/open and gets stuck. When you stuck my car on the Computer thingy (can't remember the name) it had parameters to operate between (20ish) and took forever to level out to normal when idling.
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:45 PM   #7
 
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Didn't we gave this same problem with my EGR? If I remember correctly, it has something to do with when it idles and doesn't close/open and gets stuck. When you stuck my car on the Computer thingy (can't remember the name) it had parameters to operate between (20ish) and took forever to level out to normal when idling.
Did you just replace the EGR or did you do something else?

I have an egr delete for my eaton swap can I just do that now or would it somehow damage something?
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:54 AM   #8
 
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Didn't we gave this same problem with my EGR? If I remember correctly, it has something to do with when it idles and doesn't close/open and gets stuck. When you stuck my car on the Computer thingy (can't remember the name) it had parameters to operate between (20ish) and took forever to level out to normal when idling.
Yep

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Did you just replace the EGR or did you do something else?

I have an egr delete for my eaton swap can I just do that now or would it somehow damage something?
Install the block off plate and see if the car will idle. You will throw a code for the EGR but atleast you will know if it's the EGR or not
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:04 AM   #9
 
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Yep



Install the block off plate and see if the car will idle. You will throw a code for the EGR but atleast you will know if it's the EGR or not

I will try to do that today and will report back.
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Old 01-29-2014, 05:59 PM   #10
 
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Did you just replace the EGR or did you do something else?

Yes. And we replaced the whole motor.


The EGR was just part of the problem. It ended up having the dreaded 4.6 heated cylinder effed up burnt valve loss of compression disease.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:47 PM   #11
 
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Yes. And we replaced the whole motor.


The EGR was just part of the problem. It ended up having the dreaded 4.6 heated cylinder effed up burnt valve loss of compression disease.

Well, I got a new set of plugs in the mail yesterday I will throw those in and the block off plate to see if it runs better. Lets hope I don't have the same problem as yours....
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:13 PM   #12
 
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Mine ran like shit for a long time before I got sick of it and Musclemerc did the engine swap out( Much thanks again) After that...Problem cured.

We replaced cops, plugs,egr, fuel filter yadda yada you name it. Compression test was the straw that broke the camels back. If you run into a brick wall, try a compression test.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:19 PM   #13
 
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I have been working and the car has been sitting pretty much all week. Have the plugs and block off plate ready but have not had the time to do anything with it. Hope to tackle it this weekend. I hope it fixes the problem.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:16 PM   #14
 
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Well...I swapped the EGR with a good used unit that I picked up from mowtown. I threw a new set of plugs in it. Same damn problem.

Codes came back as lean bank 1 & 2 but the drive cycle isn't complete.

Any ideas?
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:07 PM   #15
 
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Like I said.. Sounds familiar. You should compression tests it.
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:30 PM   #16
 
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Like I said.. Sounds familiar. You should compression tests it.
I guess that's next. What is a decent compression tester that works well for 4v motors?
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:55 PM   #17
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I guess that's next. What is a decent compression tester that works well for 4v motors?
I have one from Harbor Freight.
I seem to recall I had to modify it to work, but not sure.

Good luck! Check for obvious things, like vacuum leaks.
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Old 02-04-2014, 11:16 AM   #18
 
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I have one from Harbor Freight.
I seem to recall I had to modify it to work, but not sure.

Good luck! Check for obvious things, like vacuum leaks.
I will head over there today and see what they have available.

I checked again for vacuum leaks both visually and with carb cleaner. I sprayed the shit out of this thing. No results.

I did check fuel pressure and here is a quick video below.

Also one of these days I will get my grill over to you Zack.



or Photobucket

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Old 02-04-2014, 05:03 PM   #19
 
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IIRC pressure should be 39~40psi
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:40 PM   #20
 
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IIRC pressure should be 39~40psi
Should it bounce around like that? Its more like 30psi at an idle.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:13 AM   #21
 
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Nope steady 39-40 lbs
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Old 02-05-2014, 10:47 AM   #22
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Should it bounce around like that? Its more like 30psi at an idle.
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Nope steady 39-40 lbs
The pcm sees it as 39-40 because of pulse modulation.
A normal gauge sees 30psi.
(or vice versa, dont know which)
NORMAL
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Old 02-05-2014, 05:27 PM   #23
 
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Good point you made here Zack. I'm getting my fuel pressure reading from an Aeroforce gauge that pulls the info directly from the PCM. If you have 30psi at idle then fuel isn't your problem.

Time to do a compression and a leak down test
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:06 PM   #24
 
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Good point you made here Zack. I'm getting my fuel pressure reading from an Aeroforce gauge that pulls the info directly from the PCM. If you have 30psi at idle then fuel isn't your problem.

Time to do a compression and a leak down test
Good to know fuel isn't the issue. Didn't have time to go to Harbor Freight to get the compression tester. I ordered a set of OEM coils as suggested by Zack. He stated that he experienced the same codes with a motor he installed and it was fixed when he swapped the coils. They are going to be here on Friday. If is still doing the same thing I will be doing the compression test.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:27 AM   #25
 
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I have about had it with this thing. I have replaced the coils with brand new ford units, new NGK plugs, checked fuel pressure and determined that is not an issue, and swapped EGR with a verified good used unit. I cleared the codes and fired it up. After idling for about 5-7 minutes....the damn thing died again. Its as if the key was shut off. No sputtering etc. I fired it back up after that then took it out for several WOT blasts and drove for a couple miles after that. No codes, again the cycle is not complete yet. Once I returned from the drive I let it idle, it died again after several minutes.
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